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Cheap music server power tweak that is VERY good.


TJHUB

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So, I think one of the answer is that SOtM takes, 9V 2A. I have a TeraDak 9V 2A power supply, I think I can use that to power the SOtM card. Can you please tell me how to disconnect the SOtM card from the MOBO power? Thanks.

 

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Equipment:

Auralic Vega DAC, Auralic Taurus Preamp, KEF LS50 Speakers, Hypex Ncore400 monoblock amps, CAPs V3, Paul Hynes SR5 (12v and 9v rails), Audioquest King Cobra XLRs, Signal Cable speaker cable, Furutech power and USB cable

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Does others find that it takes 8+ hours for the Anker E4 to fully charge? Maybe I need a better USB charger.

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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Does others find that it takes 8+ hours for the Anker E4 to fully charge? Maybe I need a better USB charger.

 

Its a big battery, so it does take over 8 hours to charge unless you use the recommended 1.5A charger. I've been using my iPad 2.1A charger. I haven't charged it lately to time it, but I only have to charge it once every 4 to 6 weeks.

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Its a big battery, so it does take over 8 hours to charge unless you use the recommended 1.5A charger. I've been using my iPad 2.1A charger. I haven't charged it lately to time it, but I only have to charge it once every 4 to 6 weeks.

 

Mine is definitely not lasting 4-6 weeks, but I am also charging it once it hits 1 light.

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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David, see post 93 in this thread for an alternative to recharging as well as a link for an inexpensive rapid charger.

 

Thanks Nicholas. I had read that post and will try that. I wasn't in the market for a charger then so I missed the link!

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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HELP REQUESTED:

Yesterday I was able to make my cable thanks to dminches and ted_b discussion on AC. I am very impressed with the change it made and it isn't subtle. I am having an issue though that my battery shuts off after a while - yes I read already the rcommendations. I did try using the 1amp ouput and it still shuts off. I have a C.A.P.S v3 Lagoon and a RWA BL to power the SOTM card and the PC.

So I want to know if anyone else is using the RWA BL to power their CAPS or another variable here is that I bought the Anker E5.

Any ideas on how to keep this thing lit??? I had to plug my phone into it last night just so I could have an uninterrupted session.

My other option would be to send Vinnie the BL to add a USB power supply for the SSD. I am also going to send ted_b some SACDs to rip so I may send off my E5 to him to see if he gets the same results as I do.

thanks,

Eric

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HELP REQUESTED:

Yesterday I was able to make my cable thanks to dminches and ted_b discussion on AC. I am very impressed with the change it made and it isn't subtle. I am having an issue though that my battery shuts off after a while - yes I read already the rcommendations. I did try using the 1amp ouput and it still shuts off. I have a C.A.P.S v3 Lagoon and a RWA BL to power the SOTM card and the PC.

So I want to know if anyone else is using the RWA BL to power their CAPS or another variable here is that I bought the Anker E5.

Any ideas on how to keep this thing lit??? I had to plug my phone into it last night just so I could have an uninterrupted session.

My other option would be to send Vinnie the BL to add a USB power supply for the SSD. I am also going to send ted_b some SACDs to rip so I may send off my E5 to him to see if he gets the same results as I do.

thanks,

Eric

 

What SSD are you using?

 

As far as the battery shutting off, it's either a case that your SSD doesn't draw enough current to keep the Anker on, or that particular Anker battery isn't sensitive enough.

 

Ted's setup might not be a good test as his SSD even keeps the 2A side on. Mine doesn't do that. If I power my SSD with the 2A side, my E4 shuts down. On the 1A side, my E4 never shuts down.

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On the 1A side, my E4 never shuts down.

 

That's been my experience as well.

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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Thanks for the replies. I am using the Samsung 840 Pro Series 2.5" 120GB version. The only thing that runs on that pc is JPLAY and the Driver for my OR5 for kernel streaming. I am using audiophils optimizer on windows 2012 rc2 and using a 2 pc setup and this being my audioPC connected to a switch (not direct connect). The PC goes into JPlay hibernate mode when in operation. I was able to pull the power cord from the battery and the pc still kept going (I did this as an experiment and plugged it back in after about 10 seconds) the point being that you are right about it not drawing enough current.

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Is there any reason I cannot wire in one of my SLA batteries to the SSD? It is a 12v and 8ah battery.

 

because the SSD mostly accept 5V, havent see a 12V though

Apple : iPhone 4 16GB , iPad 1 64GB[br]IEM : ACS Custom Sleeve Sennheiser IE8[br]Transport : Battery Mac Mini 2011 & Wavelength Wavelink (USB) & Oppo BDP-95[br]DAC with HeadAmp : RWA Isabellina HPA LFP-V[br]Headphone : Audez\' LCD-2[br]Stereo Amp : RWA Signature 30.2 LFP-V[br]Speaker : Harbeth P3ESR SE

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anyone have tried powering a intel 530 externally ? i have some problem with it... cant detect sometimes, especially when there is a software crash and I need to reboot

Apple : iPhone 4 16GB , iPad 1 64GB[br]IEM : ACS Custom Sleeve Sennheiser IE8[br]Transport : Battery Mac Mini 2011 & Wavelength Wavelink (USB) & Oppo BDP-95[br]DAC with HeadAmp : RWA Isabellina HPA LFP-V[br]Headphone : Audez\' LCD-2[br]Stereo Amp : RWA Signature 30.2 LFP-V[br]Speaker : Harbeth P3ESR SE

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Jump start your SSD!

 

I thought I would share something very unexpected that I had to share right away. I was running with my Anker E5 and walked away from the room for a bit. When I returned I noticed something odd - the battery lights had gone out and it was fully charged and the music was still playing! So as to further my experiment I pulled the usb from the Anker and I have been listening non-stop for 2+hours. I live in Minnesota and it has been very cold with in the highs of -15 the last couple of days, there have been a lot of people that need to jump start there cars - so why not Jump Start Your SSD! Then no battery required! See my post #110 above for more info on my setup. I want to try again tomorrow to see if it is repeatable.

 

Thoughts??? Theories?

Anything you want me to try?

It proves JPlay plays from memory indeed!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great thread!

 

Been lurking around since the beginning, thinking about my upcoming new server build. That time has come, and would like to get your thoughts: I will use an S1200KPR mobo with a Crucial V4 SSD for OS, a PPA USB card (v2), and a 1TB 3.5" WD Green Caviar for music, and PPA PicoPSU (wide range).

 

I will power the Crucial OS SSD with an Anker E4. The drive is rated for 2A into 5V.

 

Anyone tried using another Anker E4 or E5 for the USB card?

 

I'm planning on using a linear PSU going into the Pico. Would it be a bad idea to power the HDD from the mobo?

 

Can't wait to be up and running.

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Anyone tried using another Anker E4 or E5 for the USB card?

 

I'm going off memory but seem to recall on one of threads someone trying to power the PPA card with the Anker and wasn't happy with the results... You should be able to locate it with a little searching...

Equipment:

Auralic Vega DAC, Auralic Taurus Preamp, KEF LS50 Speakers, Hypex Ncore400 monoblock amps, CAPs V3, Paul Hynes SR5 (12v and 9v rails), Audioquest King Cobra XLRs, Signal Cable speaker cable, Furutech power and USB cable

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HELP REQUESTED:

 

Any ideas on how to keep this thing lit??? I had to plug my phone into it last night just so I could have an uninterrupted session.

 

Having the same issue with a RavPower charger, thought maybe it was exclusive to the brand. I was thinking about picking up an E4 but maybe have the same issue?? Anyway just to clarify you were able to listen to your system uninterrupted by shut downs by plugging the phone into the 2amp side and running the SSD off the 1amp side??

Im enjoying the bump in sonics but reboots are making it unbearable to contend with.

Holo Spring Kitsume Level 3, Singxer SU-1

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I'm going off memory but seem to recall on one of threads someone trying to power the PPA card with the Anker and wasn't happy with the results... You should be able to locate it with a little searching...

 

I did try searching prior to posting, but the comments were not all that clear. I think comments related to USB cards were around people trying an iFi USB to power the card plus E4 on the OS SSD. And TJHUB initially trying the E4 on the USB card only. But I don't recall comments about an E4 on the OS SSD plus another E4 on the USB card.

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I have an Anker E4 battery which I've been trying to recharge using a cheap power adaptor which has a usb port in which I plug a usb cable to charge the battery. So far only one light on the battery is lit even though I left the charger on the battery overnight.

Obviously, this is a bad combination. I've ordered the charger on post 93 today but is there a guideline I need to follow to make sure I'm using the right charger for this battery?

Thanks,

Joel

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Joel, I use the larger Apple USB charger that came with my first iPad. it works fine and fully charges an E4 in a few hours. The smaller square cube that comes with my iPhone 5 does what you say. There is not enough juice to fully charge the Anker IMHO.

 

Regarding reboots: my Anker E4 runs off the 1A port and nver needs rebooting. I've had reboot issues with the 2A port cuz I think the Anker goes into it's auto-shutoff as it doesn't see enough load from the SSD. My $.02.

 

Regarding Anker on anything else: most who have tried the Anker on the PPA card don't like it there. I think it's too lightweight for that purpose, but I have no technical reasoning why. :)

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I did try searching prior to posting, but the comments were not all that clear. I think comments related to USB cards were around people trying an iFi USB to power the card plus E4 on the OS SSD. And TJHUB initially trying the E4 on the USB card only. But I don't recall comments about an E4 on the OS SSD plus another E4 on the USB card.

 

Everyone's system can react differently to things, but I cannot find anything that sounds better than my picoPSU powering my PPA v2 USB card. I've tried my Anker E4, my TeraDak linear, and a DIY linear that bested a Paul Hynes supply in the past. In every case, I lose clarity, definition, tone, sound stage, and realism. I don't know if it's because I have cleaner power at my house, dedicated power lines for my setup, a DAC that doesn't use the +5V from the USB cable, or a broken PPA USB card. I guess I'll just be the only person in the world that gets significantly better sound with the pico powering my PPA card.

 

As far as using the E4 battery supply on my PPA v2 card, it easily produces the worst sound I've heard from my computer. I can't explain this at all. I now just look at it as a huge benefit for me. I don't have to spend any extra money to power my PPA card.

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