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Cheap music server power tweak that is VERY good.


TJHUB

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If you are interested in a bakoon I have one that I am currently not using and I might be persuaded to part with it ;-)

 

I sent you a PM.

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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Is there any risk in powering an SSD with a battery which delivers between 5.5 and 6V?

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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Is there any risk in powering an SSD with a battery which delivers between 5.5 and 6V?

 

Why not just get one that powers from 3.3V for the OS. Then you could hook up a single battery and have that charged by a cheap switching power supply.

 

I thought about doing this but why? I really don't think your going to gain much if you already have great galvanic isolation and galvanic isolated power downstream of the PC. Just powering the SSD separately of the mobo with an LPS is sufficient.

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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Why not just get one that powers from 3.3V for the OS. Then you could hook up a single battery and have that charged by a cheap switching power supply.

 

I thought about doing this but why? I really don't think your going to gain much if you already have great galvanic isolation and galvanic isolated power downstream of the PC. Just powering the SSD separately of the mobo with an LPS is sufficient.

 

I already have a 6V Bakoon BPS-02 so I figured I would use it for the SSD. I want to be sure that the extra voltage won't be an issue. It only measures at 5.5V so I am hoping it is ok.

Speakers: Vandersteen Model 7s, 4 M&K ST-150Ts, 1 VCC-5; Amplification: 2 Vandersteen M7-HPAs, CI Audio D200 MKII, Ayre V-6xe; Preamp: Doshi Audio Line Stage v3.0; Phono Pre: Doshi Audio Phono Pre; Analog: Wave Kinetics NVS with Durand Telos composite arm; SME 3012R arm, Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement v2; Reel to Reel:  Technics RS-1500; Doshi Tape Pre-Amp; Studer A810, Studer A812, Tascam BR-20; Multi-channel: Bryston SP-3; Digital: Custom PC (Sean Jacobs DC4/Euphony/Stylus)> Lampizator Pacific

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I already have a 6V Bakoon BPS-02 so I figured I would use it for the SSD. I want to be sure that the extra voltage won't be an issue. It only measures at 5.5V so I am hoping it is ok.

 

It's out of ATX specs, but I don't think it will hurt to do so. I would use a cheap SSD, which are more than sufficient for the OS.

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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