Jump to content
IGNORED

Cheap music server power tweak that is VERY good.


TJHUB

Recommended Posts

Of course, but - really - how much noise does an SSD make and how much of that makes it through the entire audio to chain make an audible difference? For them to work well, and remember they are digital devices not analogue, they have built into them very good noise rejection.

 

I don't buy it.

 

Agreed - batteries inherently make very poor power supplies.

 

HDDs & SSDs all make a lot of noise. The main problem is that they draw big current spikes, this noise is easily observed. The problem is that this noise gets into the USB output (or the air) and then degrades the audio performance. Batteries do not have to be bad either, one just has to use the right ones and use them correctly. The battery supply for my server definitely improved performance.

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
HDDs & SSDs all make a lot of noise. The main problem is that they draw big current spikes, this noise is easily observed.

 

I am intrigued as to what "big current spikes" you have observed, how big they are and how current drawn from a battery differs from current drawn from a well-regulated power supply. My SSD spends most of its time idle. Full tracks are drawn into memory prior to playback and then the SSD does little until the next track is loaded.

Speakers: Egglestonworks Andra III front left/right and centre; Egglestonworks Rosa as surround; Rel Stentor II subwoofer. Synergistic Research Element Copper speaker cable. Cardas Clear Light interconnect. Amps: Krel FPB-200 and 2 x Krell KAV 150a. Theta Casablanca IV with multichannel Dirac Live. Oppo 103. Isotek GII Titan power conditioning. Acoustic treatments: 2 x RPG Modex Plates; RPG 100mm BAD panels; RPG Skylines.

Link to comment

I've been experimenting with Anker batteries and something odd happened. My PC was initially powered through a low ripple la linear power supply into a picoPSU and from there I was feeding mobo, OS SSD, and PPA USB card. A HDD for music was powered independently.

 

Then I introduced the Anker E4 and fed the OS SSD with it. I thought it was an improvement, but wasn't too sure. Maybe it was due to me not being used enough to the sound of the new PC. I used it like this for over a month without issues. Never got the battery to power off. Was using the 1A output.

 

Last night I started getting the battery to shutdown after 5 minutes. I can't understand why this started to happen all of a sudden. I haven't made any changes that could affect power draw. Any ideas?

 

Today I tried using the 1A output to the SSD and the 2A output to feed the USB card. Thought this would get me over the threshold to keep the battery on. Battery started shutting down even faster. Though, maybe too much current draw? So I kept the SSD on the 1A output, and connected the USB card on the 2A output of another E4. After about 20 seconds of playback the battery connected to the USB card would shut down. It was so fast I couldn't even figure out if I liked the sound better.

 

I don't recall reading about the E4s shutting down with PPA USB cards. Any ideas what might be behind all of this?

 

Thank you!

Link to comment

Never had any problems powering SSDs, PPA USB Card or Sotm USB card off Anker Astro Pro Batteries and sound was always as good as connecting iUSB units or Teddy Pardo Linear's. The 5v connection off the Astro Pro would always hold during playback even pulling very little power off a Toshiba SSD, the battery charge would last for weeks.

Audio PC - Gigabyte H97M-D3H, i7 at 800Mhz, RAM at 800Mhz & PPA OCXO Mobo, Teradak ATX Linear for 20 pin ATX on Mobo, Paul Hynes SR7EHD 12v, 5v & 5v supply on Mobo, Stammheim 12x LT3045's for 1.3v to RAM direct supply, JCat V2 USB Card, WTFPlay Linux Audiophile Player control by MELE F10, Startech LEX to REX on 12v Paul Hynes with 2x SLC cards and out by POE to ISO/Regen, PPA Red USB Cable, Lampizator Big7, Nige design Lifepo4 powered amp, Raidho C1s.

Link to comment
Consider a couple of things: it probably does not matter what down regulation goes on inside the SSD, as the benefit of the separate supply is not getting clean power to the SSD, but that the noise produced by the drive is now isolated form other supplies (especially the supply which powers ones' USB output).

Additionally, do not think that just because a commercially available supply is linear that it is any better than a SMPS, either design can produce good, or bad, results. It is the quality of the supply which matters, just searching for any old linear power supply on the Interwebs is not likely to result in one finding a high performance low noise supply. Low noise power supplies are very specialty items, and if you want a really good low noise supply, and do not want to build it yourself, you need to be considering audiopphile suppliers the likes of Paul Hynes, etc. Also, just because you use a battery, do not assume it is low noise, batteries produce noise as well through the chemical reactions inside them. Some batteries are way better than others. The best batteries are LiFePO4s, but these vary somewhat by brand even... Things are not as simple as some here may be thinking.

 

This is all true. The biggest differences we see between computers stem from all aspects of their power delivery: in particular, grounding and isolation. When someone finds an improvement in moving to a two-PC system, or 'separating' the OS from the library drive . . . again, the most likely explanation is improving on-board noise and separating the supplies.

 

It's important to stress, too, that any power supply needs to be kept well under its headroom for real-world low-noise performance. There's little point powering a modestly sized SSD which will idle at 50-150mA but occasionally need up to 750mA with a 1A supply - it should be over-rated by 200% of peak demand . . . which is why a good, big SMPS can work surprisingly well with a properly implemented low-demand computer.

 

On the same subject, it's vital not to forget the other half of the 'stream' . . . ATX power filtering - for instance - might be fine to minimise the injection of downstream noise into the board and USB, but of course the PSU is still merrily pumping grunge into the (likely shared) AC . . .

Upsetting computers since 1978.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I have my Anker E5 connected to CAPS v3 SSD. Battery only has one blue LED lit. Is it not fully charging because it is continuously providing power to the SSD? I has been in that condition for more than three days.

 

I have the charger connected constantly to the battery. Should I disconnect the battery from SD so it can fully charge, I would like to have the charger always connected, its just easier. Please let me know. Thanks.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

I need three bit of information. I've read this complete thread. But still like to ask the following:

 

1. What is the consensus on using the output of Anker? 1A is better or 2A?

2. Have anyone used an off the shelf cable (usb to sata?) to power the SSD from Anker that doesn't require any modification? If so, please mention the link.

3. Given various shut-off cases due to lower power draw - what specification should I look at while buying a SSD? What are some SSD that works flawlessly (doesn't shut off) with Anker battery?

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

Tried an AData 10000ma external usb battery backup ($50 ) with great results with my HRT streamer Pro using a split USB cable.

Quieter, smoother and more detailed over the USB hub I was using.

I get about 24 hours listening before recharge.

Dont think I will be buying an IFI after all.IMAG0036_1.jpg

IMAG0028.jpg

Nickt1

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

WOW. It really does make a difference. Subtle but powerful as my great late friend used to say. Just beautiful.

 

Thanks to you all for the idea to power the SSD separately.

 

I used the PSU from my PS Audio Perfectwave Dac that was left over when I upgraded it to the new DirectStream as a separate PSU for the SSD in my CAPS (Zuma Win server 2012 AO). It provides 5 vdc and max around 1.5 amps. Next I'll have to try it without the SoTM noise filter on the SSD.

 

I have a Twisted Pear PSU I can use to power the SoTM USB card - once I repair it (grin). Still using a smps for the mobo until I find/build an afforable linear psu. This hobby keeps on giving.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm a little late to this thread, but can report from personal experience yesterday that an Anker E4 battery pack does not work as a power supply for Paul Pang's USB card on a CAPS music server. The music plays for a few seconds and then stops; the LEDs on the battery back flash off.

Link to comment

I'm also using an Anker Astro E5 (1st gen) to power the OS SSD in my music server and it works great on the 1A output. On the 2.1A output the Anker shuts down automatically.

 

From the technical specs it became clear to me why, the Ankers needs a minimum power draw of 40mAh for the 1A output and 80mHh for the 2.1A output.

 

If anyone finds it doesn't work with the Intel AHCI SATA controller drivers, check to see if you've disabled LPM. See e.g. http://blogs.visigo.com/chriscoulson/ssd-freezing-fix/ for a how to.

Link to comment

Don't know if someone suggested this before.. But I wonder why feeding an Anker to a PPA card sounds bad....

 

My reading tells me that these USB power banks perhaps have step-up converters at the output. Because they need a small charging circuit at the input that manages the power draw (limits it) and circumvents overcharging the battery. This however 'costs' a few tens of a volt. The pack can therefore never be of equal voltage as the signal feeding it (in this case a USB compliant 5V). It will be less (4.x). In order for the output to be 5V USB compliant it needs a step-up converter (or booster). That messes things up when you feed that to an audio purpose USB card I quess... You get nasty DC-DC crap due to that step-up booster.

 

Just Google for "DC-DC step up USB"

 

Example lay-out:

Battery charger { battery } booster

2s.jpg

 

An SSD does not seem to care (it make plenty crap by itsself). What matters there is that it is taken off-grid from the rest of the stuff..

Bits to analog: Server [i9-10850k; Win10Pro, Roon Core + HQPlayer4 >all DSD256x] -> mRendu -> Regen -> Lampi GG

Analog to sound: ASR Emitter II Exclusive, Battery -> Gryphon Mojo S + 2 x REL G2

Details: Audio System

Link to comment

Forgot to ask...

Any clues what is the best type to go for at this time? The Anker E4-V2 is out. Have they sorted the current threshold issue ?

Bits to analog: Server [i9-10850k; Win10Pro, Roon Core + HQPlayer4 >all DSD256x] -> mRendu -> Regen -> Lampi GG

Analog to sound: ASR Emitter II Exclusive, Battery -> Gryphon Mojo S + 2 x REL G2

Details: Audio System

Link to comment
I'm a little late to this thread, but can report from personal experience yesterday that an Anker E4 battery pack does not work as a power supply for Paul Pang's USB card on a CAPS music server. The music plays for a few seconds and then stops; the LEDs on the battery back flash off.

 

Anker asked me how I liked the battery pack and I told them about the problem; here's their response:

 

"Thanks for taking the time to respond.

 

Yes, if the power draw does not consistently remain above 0.05A then the battery will shut off.

 

I do hope this isn't too much of an inconvenience but if you would like to make a return then you can either do it to Amazon or to us for a full refund.

 

Please let me know if you need any further help and I'll be able to sort that out for you."

Link to comment

I bought an Anker E4 V2 from Amazon for $29, made up a USB to Sata cable and tried it this morning on my Caps v2. I am already powering my motherboard and Sotm card with separate supplies from an RWA Black Lightning. I didn't think there was much of a difference, maybe bass had a little more weight. I came back and listened a few hours later and then I could hear a difference. Much clearer, much more slam in the bass. I can hear detail on my favorite test tracks that I couldn't before. Vocals are also much more realistic sounding with backing vocals appearing to be better separated.

 

Mine has two outputs, but they are both 3A outputs. Not sure what difference this will make, if any. Any ideas?

 

Colin

Link to comment

You don't need 3A but it will do no harm. I think a SSD only needs 3/4 amp but 3A will give plenty of "headroom".

 

The voltage is important and you might have a problem if it's too low (the SSD won't work) or too high (bad) :-(

 

It's easy to check with a meter, but if it's already working you should be fine. It'll probably drop voltage and amps when the battery charge gets low.

Link to comment

The voltage is important and you might have a problem if it's too low (the SSD won't work) or too high (bad) :-(

 

It's easy to check with a meter, but if it's already working you should be fine. It'll probably drop voltage and amps when the battery charge gets low.

 

My understanding is most / all of these packs are charged FROM 5V on the input terminals and hence have an output booster at the output lifting V-out to 5Volts, no matter what the battery charge is. See post #166. It will die due to lack of amps/current supply ultimately I guess.

Bits to analog: Server [i9-10850k; Win10Pro, Roon Core + HQPlayer4 >all DSD256x] -> mRendu -> Regen -> Lampi GG

Analog to sound: ASR Emitter II Exclusive, Battery -> Gryphon Mojo S + 2 x REL G2

Details: Audio System

Link to comment

Man all this talk about improvements. I am going to have to try this out myself over the Xmas break.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

Link to comment
I bought an Anker E4 V2 from Amazon for $29, made up a USB to Sata cable and tried it this morning on my Caps v2. I am already powering my motherboard and Sotm card with separate supplies from an RWA Black Lightning. I didn't think there was much of a difference, maybe bass had a little more weight. I came back and listened a few hours later and then I could hear a difference. Much clearer, much more slam in the bass. I can hear detail on my favorite test tracks that I couldn't before. Vocals are also much more realistic sounding with backing vocals appearing to be better separated.

 

Mine has two outputs, but they are both 3A outputs. Not sure what difference this will make, if any. Any ideas?

 

Colin

 

The newer V2 models have the Anker 'PowerIQ' technology that 'senses' the amperage/current needed and distributes it over the available ports. This mostly is to make it easier for general use as users don't have to think about how much current their devices need to charge. No idea if the output is cleaner or not compared to the V1 models.

 

I bought a 2nd Gen Astro E4 13000mAh and a 1st gen Astro E5 15000mAh at the same time and only the 1st gen E5 works with my Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD (regular SATAIII). The Samsungs are among the most power efficient SSD's on the market and the 2nd gen E4 are specified to work with devices drawing power >50mA, the 1st gen E5 does at >40mA on it's 1A port and >80mAh on it 2.1A port.

 

Anandtech measures the power usage, including the idle and slumber power for SSD's, see: AnandTech | Bench - SSD and it for example shows that my Samsung draws 0,32W at idle which translates to a current draw of (0,32/5)*1000=64mA. Indeed too little for the 2.1A port of the 1st gen E5 which indeed doesn't work in practice as well. It is however enough for the 1A port. And although it should even be enough for the 2nd. gen E4 which needs >50mA it doesn't work, the battery auto-powers down "BSOD'ing" the server so be careful!

 

The power draw at slumber (HIPM+DIPM enabled in PC and SSD) is only 39.6mW which equals to (0,0396/5)*1000=7,92mA. Way too little for each port of either battery.

Link to comment

Having read through this thread I thought I would give this tweak a try, Anker E5 arrived from amazon today and is now powering Samsung 830 SSD OS drive

Great improvement for £20+spent

many Thanks

customer server+AudiophileOptimizer >>UltraRendu (SR4) >> Lush(JSSG360) >>> IsoRegen(SR4) >>> Lush^2 >>> blu2 >>Blaxius^2D >> Dave > HD800(SDRmod)

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...