Cheap music server power tweak that is VERY good.

[nick77]

Thank you Ted. saved me from making a mistake. What do you suggest for powering the USB card?

 

A number of people including myself are using the small Acopian linear PS with excellent results. I had my PPA card powered of motherboard feed with battery power, switched to linear supply and increase in sonics was substantial. Mine is the 5EB150 model, anything over 1 amp will work great. Were finding them on ebay for cheap.

[Raysracing]

A number of people including myself are using the small Acopian linear PS with excellent results. I had my PPA card powered of motherboard feed with battery power, switched to linear supply and increase in sonics was substantial. Mine is the 5EB150 model, anything over 1 amp will work great. Were finding them on ebay for cheap.

Agreed. For $10 ($12 shipping) it was a big step forward in micro dynamics for me. Voices, cymbals, reverb, background noises in live recordings, the breath of the solo violinist all came forward. This was powering my PPA Card only. My turntable has never seen so little use since getting back into this hobby.

[JakovH]

So where does this battery fit in the scheme of things?

 

Outside the case for access to both on/off and for charging or can it be mounted inside the case, switch to standby by itself and be permanently connected via usb to a usb port for charging?

 

I never did receive a clear answer in regards to this query. I would appreciate somebodies input. Regards

[ted_b]

I never did receive a clear answer in regards to this query. I would appreciate somebodies input. Regards

Since you are likely referring to our Anker E4 successes, that battery needs recharging, has leds on its facing and is a decent size (sightly larger and thicker than the original ipod). For those reasons most of us just have them outside the case. I keep the lid to my pc's (controlpc and auiopc) off or slightly askew and simply have the cable (USB to SATA power leads) pushed somewhere where it is not in the way. When I see the battery at 1 led I let the evenings listening finish and then shut down said server, unplug from the battery and bring the battery over to my charging cable. If I need a backup I use my iFi power supply.

[JakovH]

Thanks for your reply.

 

I know without a doubt my family will use said items, run them flat and leave them for me to resolve.

 

What other alternatives are there? ALong the lines of my initial post.

[ted_b]

Then leave it plugged into its recharger while powering your SSD. Some have claimed its no big deal sonically (and if this is a family-accessed machine you need to take any steps out you can.)

[Raysracing]

At Micro Center they have these very inexpensive rechargeable USB batteries. It was fairly small so probably would need more constant recharging. Is their something special about the Anker that makes it the only choice?

 

The one below is also cheaper, but there were even less expensive ones in the accessories aisle.

QVS 5600mAh USB Battery Power Bank Kit for Smartphones and Tablets - White BP-5600WH - Micro Center

[ted_b]

Is their something special about the Anker that makes it the only choice?

 

Ray, we never said it was the only choice. This thread is specifically about finding out that powering an SSD externally makes s big difference; and that using a simple $45 Anker E4 works, works well, and works for like a week or two at a time. If you can find cheaper alternatives, go for it. I myself have no reason to go cheaper than proven $45 solutions, especially given what most of us have invested (time and money) into our SSD-based music server. If you find a good 5V external power solution that is cheaper than the Anker e4, more power (pun intended) to you.

[Raysracing]

Then I'll be the crash test dummy next time.

[JakovH]

Unfortunately, Amazon/Anker do not ship to New Zealand. Are there any other reasonable alternatives?

[TJHUB]

Unfortunately, Amazon/Anker do not ship to New Zealand. Are there any other reasonable alternatives?

 

Look for a similar model from Jaycar Electronics. I've seen posts with similar success using them.

[Lowlands]

Then leave it plugged into its recharger while powering your SSD. Some have claimed its no big deal sonically (and if this is a family-accessed machine you need to take any steps out you can.)

 

This seems like an attractive option. Has anyone considered / tested splitting a single rail into multi rail this way?

Example: one could go for a (more or less) affordable (Keces / Teradak) dual rail PSU and use one of those rails to (full-time) charge a USB battery power-bank (the likes of Anker E4) and the USB-card at the same time (if enough juice), thus providing a 3-rail solution.

 

Would in that case the USB card be 100% isolated from the SSD (by the battery) using a single rail?

Do all battery banks allow being on a charger full-time & still provide battery power at the same time on the other end?

[davide256]

unfortunately I've outgrown the Ankar, really need a pristine wall powered source that can power 3 USB powered SATA drives as well as provide external power for an asynch USB converter. Anyone have something like this they are happy with compared to the Ankar? I'd hate to think RedWine power supplies are the only option.

[Crom]

A big THANK YOU to everyone here for posting about their experiences with battery power. I finally got around to starting to experimentat last night and this is what I've found so far:

 

Methodology: I listen and then ask the wife whether she can tell a difference, what the difference is and whether she likes it (...in other words,totally scientific!)

 

I was using my Anker E4 that's been sitting in the cupboard since last Glastonbury.

 

The Anker battery is IMHO a no brainer to replace even a decent linear supply for the SSDs and CF drives in control/audio PC setup. More texture, depth, separation than even my pretty good (DIY) individual linear supplies can produce.

 

I know that this isn't common but we liked Paul Pang's USB card (version 1) powered by the Anker. Again, more separation and similar results to above.

 

I tried above tests in both 1A and 2A outputs - no perceived difference.

I tried above tests with charger plugged in and disconnected from Anker - no perceived difference (so all further tests were done with charger plugged in as it means that the Anker doesn't shut down).

 

I tried Paul's USB card in the 2A and audio PC Paul Pang's CF SATA drive in the 1A...PC booted but USB card wouldn't allow play to start.

 

I then tried replacing the power to my dual Crystek clock in my DAC from the Paul Hynes SR3 to the Anker. Very, very close but instrument positioning in the soundstage was more muddled than with the PH supply - still the tops in my book!

 

That's it so far but I'm impressed enough to have ordered a few batteries to attempt cumulative effects. I want to be able to run the SSD in the control PC, the CF in the audio PC and PP's USB card all at once from batteries.

 

I also want to give myself longer listening to the music because logic would suggest that these batteries shouldn't really be this good. I haven't taken one apart but this guy has (

) and the circuitry in there can't possibly be optimised for noise or audio use. The cells used are also not as good as the lifepo batteries. But then I really can't be bothered with unhooking lifepos and re-charging them all the time. The Anker solution appears to be very user friendly, cost conscious and great sounding!

 

One question, has anyone tried doubling up a couple of Ankers (in parallel) to increase the available current...perhaps to Paul's USB card? Anyone with more knowledge than I know whether / in what way would this be risky to try?

 

Thanks again all,

Crom

[edn4x4]

Crom,

If you use hibernate mode on your audioPC you might want to try this as well:

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/cheap-music-server-power-tweak-very-good-18057/index5.html#post287728

Jump start your SSD | Computer Audio | Forum | JPLAY - hi-end audio player for Windows

 

I was able to pull the plug on the battery after 10 minutes and the audioPC ran until I shut it down.

 

I would be interested if you try as well and post your findings.

Eric

[Crom]

Crom,

If you use hibernate mode on your audioPC you might want to try this as well:

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/cheap-music-server-power-tweak-very-good-18057/index5.html#post287728

Jump start your SSD | Computer Audio | Forum | JPLAY - hi-end audio player for Windows

 

I was able to pull the plug on the battery after 10 minutes and the audioPC ran until I shut it down.

 

I would be interested if you try as well and post your findings.

Eric

 

Hi Eric,

Thanks for this and I had read these threads. It's a fascinating irony that we spend all our hard earned money on super-fandabadoozy-redwine-sexy-power-supplies...or perhaps just red wine, along with SATA-cable-esoterica and then pull the plug ;-)))) Haha!

 

Does physically switching the hard drive off actually improve/change the sound over just leaving it switched on and if so, what are the changes you noticed?

I'm happy to put a switch round the back that'll power down the audio PC's hard drive but only if it improves the sonics. Even then I am a little wary about doing this though because of the potential risk of a corrupt hard drive - even though the chances of powering down just as the hard drive is written to is clearly minimal.

 

Cheers,

Crom

[davide256]

.....I tried above tests with charger plugged in and disconnected from Anker - no perceived difference (so all further tests were done with charger plugged in as it means that the Anker doesn't shut down ....

 

Thanks again all,

Crom

 

I will have to go back and try this again as I did have my battery die powering 2 sata drives even with power supply plugged in... the Ankar i have has 2 1A USB ports. It may also be that this can charge faster than the drain for 1 but not 2, will experiment.

[edn4x4]

Hi Eric,

Thanks for this and I had read these threads. It's a fascinating irony that we spend all our hard earned money on super-fandabadoozy-redwine-sexy-power-supplies...or perhaps just red wine, along with SATA-cable-esoterica and then pull the plug ;-)))) Haha!

 

Does physically switching the hard drive off actually improve/change the sound over just leaving it switched on and if so, what are the changes you noticed?

I'm happy to put a switch round the back that'll power down the audio PC's hard drive but only if it improves the sonics. Even then I am a little wary about doing this though because of the potential risk of a corrupt hard drive - even though the chances of powering down just as the hard drive is written to is clearly minimal.

 

Cheers,

Crom

 

Crom,

If you look at it the other way, I am not physically switching it off myself. What I demonstrated is that is shuts it self off after (in my case) 10 minutes never to awaken again. At this point I proved that it was no longer accessed since I pulled the power cable! I then realized what am I using the battery for if all I need to do is get the PC up and running, I bought a USB wall adapter and used it to jump start my pc and then pulled the plug. So for the audioPC in hibernate mode, what is the benefit of the battery on the SSD? Perhaps removing the molex connector from the MB to the external battery is where the improvement is? Dunno - but others hear improvements with the battery in place. So for now, I am back to the original setup connected to the MB knowing that the SSD isnt used after 10 minutes - cuz I am lazy. I will go back to jump starting it though once I have more time as I feel and others state that there is a benefit and to me it is a blacker background.

I dont worry about corrupting the SSD as there is no power - there is nothing to write anyway - I hit the power button when I am done and it shuts off correctly. It is also a dedicated SSD to the audioPC anyhow. Sometime in the near future I would like to take my expensive SSD and replace it with the smallest CF card in its place as it is really a waste of an SSD and battery. Keep us posted on your finding as this is just opening the door to further options. BTW - since I have my JCAT USB in the system the background is *really *black now. Hard to describe it is really that good!

Eric

[JJJ]

I presume those thinking having a 5V battery pack powering their SSD somehow improves the effectiveness of the SSD have actually considered the inside of an SSD and noted that it doesn't run off 5V but rather has its own internal voltage regulation down to 3.3V and lower and the quality of this regulation will govern how clean the power is. The only reason it takes 5V input is for backward compatibility.

[Crom]

Hi JJJ,

 

Interesting post. Setting aside your apparent (if I've mis-understood the tone of your post then I apologise) incredulity - completely understandable and I was with you until I had a spare battery from a camping trip and gave it a go...but I do recommend giving it a try ;-)

 

I have to admit that I haven't checked what happens when the power gets into the SSD. I have just blindly assumed that it worked at 5v - my bad. It doesn't seem very logical though, given that SATA power cables appear to have a 3.3v supply in them, that the SSDs regulate the power down from 5v to 3.3v rather than just use the 3.3v supply. Is the point you're making that they regulate down from 5v because sometimes the 3.3v is missing? If this is the case then my follow up Q would be..will they all work at 3.3v if you directly connect 3.3v to pins 1,2 & 3 of the sata power connector:

 

http://www.tonymacx86.com/members/akhilv1/albums/my-first-case-mod-g5/63971-sata-power-pinout.png

 

Presumably this will bypass the local regulation.

 

If so then this perhaps does warrant testing supplying the SSD with a single lifepo.

[JJJ]

Yes I'm extremely sceptical as noted earlier in this thread. Batteries are poor deliverers of stable voltage supply. Most often your system SSD will be idled by the OS during basic playback when it's not performing system functions. If you are bringing the data for a track off the SSD prior to playback it's not doing much in playback either. I have my OS on an mSATA card on the board. I have my audio library (most of it) on an SSD and power this with a 5V regulator board from my 12V linear PSU. Maybe I should try powering the SSD off the mobo and see if it massively or not so massively degrades the sound. I very much doubt it will.

 

My understanding is that few drives use the 3.3V feed of a SATA power cable. May be worth checking that. I believe it dates back to the days of the old 4 pin molex connections which delivered just 12V and 5V. Backward compatibility likely prevents moving to the lower voltage and electrical engineers note there is no need to change as the cheap in-board DC-DC step-down regulation works well and, well, is cheap.

 

If an SSD expects to take 5V and provide it's own regulation to lower voltages (3.3V, 1.8V or whatever) and you don't give it 5V I very much doubt it will work at all. But you can test it if you like.

[JJJ]

Crom, you might be interested in page 3 of this

 

http://www.ocztechnology.com/res_old/ssd/OCZ_Core_Series_SSD_SPEC.pdf

 

I think you will find this to be quite typical.

[barrows]

Consider a couple of things: it probably does not matter what down regulation goes on inside the SSD, as the benefit of the separate supply is not getting clean power to the SSD, but that the noise produced by the drive is now isolated form other supplies (especially the supply which powers ones' USB output).

Additionally, do not think that just because a commercially available supply is linear that it is any better than a SMPS, either design can produce good, or bad, results. It is the quality of the supply which matters, just searching for any old linear power supply on the Interwebs is not likely to result in one finding a high performance low noise supply. Low noise power supplies are very specialty items, and if you want a really good low noise supply, and do not want to build it yourself, you need to be considering audiopphile suppliers the likes of Paul Hynes, etc. Also, just because you use a battery, do not assume it is low noise, batteries produce noise as well through the chemical reactions inside them. Some batteries are way better than others. The best batteries are LiFePO4s, but these vary somewhat by brand even... Things are not as simple as some here may be thinking.

[JJJ]

Of course, but - really - how much noise does an SSD make and how much of that makes it through the entire audio to chain make an audible difference? For them to work well, and remember they are digital devices not analogue, they have built into them very good noise rejection.

 

I don't buy it.

 

Agreed - batteries inherently make very poor power supplies.

[sig8]

I tried connecting the Anker battery to my CAPS v3 and I lost clarity, sort of opposite results than what most are reporting. I used some cheap generic USB cable to connect the battery. Don't know why i did not see any improvement. I connected to 1A connection to the battery.