Jump to content
IGNORED

LUMIN - Audiophile Network Music Player


Recommended Posts

Would building and using a converter cable void any warranty assuming the voltages and current capability are compatible?

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment

If you open up the Lumin, change something inside and/or insert a new cable to connect to the circuitry inside, that'd be a problem.

 

If you don't need to disassemble the Lumin, using a converter cable outside of the Lumin unit is not usually an issue (unless the converter cable is not good enough, e.g. overheat or shorted).  By the way, the DC cable for Lumin X1 / U1 / S1 / A1 / T1 needs several A so it's easy to overheat if the gauge is not thick enough.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

Link to comment

If you are not afraid of loosing the warranty you can remove the power supply and add a power connector like https://audiosensibility.com/blog/sbooster-lumin-store/#!/Lumin-D2-T2-U1-Mini-DC-Adapter-Kit-Signature-OCC-Silver-for-5-5X2-1mm-DC-plug/p/268182652/category=31645032 so you can use an external linear power supply. I have bought a second hand U1 mini that was modified with this adapter kit connected to a Farad Super3. But because I did not hear the original U1 mini I cannot tell if the result is sounding better.

Link to comment

anyone thinking about modifying his Lumin D2, T2 or U1 Mini: just be aware you'll need to cut or desolder a wire, meaning putting everything back to factory defaults might be, depending on your soldering skills, "not that straightforward" 😶

Qnap HS-264 NAS (powered by an HD-Plex 100w LPS) > Cirrus7 Nimbini v2.5 Media Edition i7-8559U/32/512 running Roon ROCK (powered by a Keces P8 LPS) > Lumin U2  > Metrum Acoustics Adagio NOS digital preamplifier > Metrum Acoustics Forte power amplifier (or  First Watt SIT 3  power amplifier or Don Garber Fi "Y" 6922 tube preamplifier + Don Garber Fi "X" 2A3 SET power amplifier, both powered from an Alpha-Core BP-30 Isolated Symmetrical Power Transformer) > Klipsch Cornwall IV

 

headphones system:

Cirrus 7 > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio > Pathos Aurium amplifier (powered by an UpTone Audio JS-2 LPS) > Focal Clear headphones

Link to comment

Back in the day, equipment manufacturers would put a dab of red "paint" on each solder joint just so that they would be alerted if the equipment was touched by a soldering iron.  I am pretty sure that Lumin doesn't do that but, never having been inside a unit, I don't know for sure.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment

Hello, I have a few questions, would appreciate some feedback please.

1. Can someone please explain the benefits of using leedh if I connect my LUMIN D2 to an integrated PrimaLuna Evo400i using unbalanced rca. I understand that using leedh can eliminate the need for a preamp, which in my case is not possible.

Does it bring any improvements if I use leedh and control the volume from the LUMIN app versus setting the volume control off and just controlling the Amp?

2. is there a benefit for up sampling in LUMIN to DSD? I listen mostly to Tidal.

3. Last question is about level normal vs low output setting, does this change sound quality in any way? What’s the preferred output for my integrated tube amp?

The amp:

Input Sensitivity 320 mV (EL34)

Input Impedance 100kΩ

 

thanks a lot in advance!

Link to comment

1 and 3.  If you use the preamp volume control, and you're not having a too much gain issue (i.e. you're comfortable with the usable range of volume in the preamp), please keep the Analog Output Level as Normal, and disable the Lumin volume control.  However, if you find that the system is too loud for your library, limiting the usable volume range in the preamp, then you may use Analog Output Level Low.  If that's still too loud, you may further decrease the Lumin volume a little.

 

2. For Tidal, it is recommended to use MQA decoding (with Lumin MQA setting to Analog output as default).  You can try disabling MQA and turn on DSD upsampling for 44.1kHz and 48kHz, see if you like this effect more or less.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

Link to comment
4 hours ago, Arthur1260 said:

Thanks @wklie. So if I understood correctly there’s no benefit from using leedh if connecting to an integrated amplifier. I have no preamp. It’s Lumin to integrated input out to speakers.

You actually do have a preamp.  The front end of an integrated amp is, in effect, a preamp and the back end is the power amp section.  Whether or not you can "separate" the two via jumpers in the back, etc. is also something else to consider.  If you can go directly into the input of the power amp section that may be an option.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment

What server change are qobuz planning?

 

I now had the issue that my login did not work anymore (I have an old account that was not an email address). Fortunately I found out that the login with my email address instead did work. (I had the problem in a web browser.) Already running sessions did continue to work, but I might get the same problem with login in streamers as well?

 

Gert

 

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

I currently have 7500 albums on my Synology NAS running Minimserver with a Lumin A1 using a 4th gen IPad Air running the Lumin app.  I had found that when adding an album to the library it was faster to do a Minimserver rescan followed by a library reload (takes 5 minutes) than to do a rescan and then update library. Yesterday I added 3 albums and the reload was extremely slow.  I tried killing the Lumin app and or restarting MinimServer, but nothing helped.. it took something like 2 hours to reload the library.  Does anyone know what might be causing that? Thanks

Link to comment
4 hours ago, Roy Boy said:

when adding an album to the library it was faster to do a Minimserver rescan followed by a library reload

I also use Synology and Minimserver. I had the same feeling once. I have about 6,000 albums. Rescan + update takes about 3-4 minutes. A rescan + reload takes about 5-6 minutes. So no big difference. 2 hours sounds weired. 
 

I was thinking of a slow router or too low wifi speed but then both ways should be slow. Could it be some files that are corrupt and keeps spinning?
 

 

Link to comment

 

On 1/30/2022 at 2:55 PM, Zalut said:

Don't have one. Looking at pictures it looks like a screw just going into the metal casing. Thinking about it I'm not even sure you can ground "signal ground" on a streamer since it is a digital device?  My Entreq ethernet cable has a ground connector going to an Entreq ground box however and this to my ears works great so I guess digital signals can benefit from grounding too. 

 

I connect my Entreq box to the RCA coaxial of my U1 mini, and I wouldn't listen to my stereo without it.

 

Sometimes the Entreq RCA grounding cable accidently falls off the U1 mini, and I always know during my listening session.

 

I haven't tried the grounding connector on the U1 mini.

 

I also have an Entreq ethernet cable for the U1 mini, which requires an Entreq grounding box. 

 

The cable sounds fantastic. Just so refined, musical, and effortless.

Waversa hub > Lumin S1 > Bakoon HPA-21

Link to comment
On 2/13/2022 at 8:43 AM, wklie said:

Qobuz Feb. 15 login change.

 

Just received a notification from Qobuz about their upcoming server change.

 

From Feb. 15 if you experience Qobuz playback / login issues, please logout Qobuz from Lumin app. Power cycle the Lumin, then try to login again.

 

If that does not work, please power cycle your whole network of devices starting from and especially including the router.

 

 

In the past, whenever I reboot my router the app loses the Tidal/Qobuz login, and I have to re-enter it.

Waversa hub > Lumin S1 > Bakoon HPA-21

Link to comment
On 2/10/2022 at 9:41 AM, pl_svn said:

anyone thinking about modifying his Lumin D2, T2 or U1 Mini: just be aware you'll need to cut or desolder a wire, meaning putting everything back to factory defaults might be, depending on your soldering skills, "not that straightforward" 😶

 

Yes, I wouldn't try to put the Lumin back to stock after cutting wires.

 

But the upgrade is well worth it.

Waversa hub > Lumin S1 > Bakoon HPA-21

Link to comment
@wklie  Hi Peter, Hi Guys, 
I ordered the Lumin X1 (I hope to get it soon). 
In the forum and, of course, on the lumin's side, I have read a lot of things about how to build Fiber Network and I'm more and more confused (in addition, I couldn't find many things in Hungary Than example In Usa or other countries..). I can order Fiber LC-LC Single-Mode 9/125um Corning Duplex cable, but I do not really know which SFP modules should I choose. In many forums, they write that Finisar has the best SQ that I only look at eBay but not the type there.
I use a ZTE ZXHN F660 router and Apple Airport Extreme. I tried T2 couple month ago and I plugged it into the Apple Airport Extreme via Cat8 cable and another Cat8 cable went into the MacBook Pro (with Roon) that was connected to 4HDD via  Thunderbolt3 cable to 55TB music. I was amazed. I have to admit to better than Wadia 321 USB. For a long time, I hesitant to choose P1 or X1 (personal audition occurred on a system that I did not really like and heard only the minimum sound difference between the two), but I voted confidence to X1. 
So I was thinking about i will connect from the router with CAT8 cable into the SFP Switch (but which one?? UNIFI USW 16 POE (GEN2)? Mikrotik CRS106 1C5S? Or Cisco ??) And I'm going with fiber into the X1 and also with fiber into a FMC (TP-Link MC210CS or MC220L Or ??) and from it via CAT8 to MacBook Pro M1 Max. 
Do you think it would be good?
Please help which Switch and SFP module should be good value for money (and now unfortunately I can’t afford a synergistic research or melco s100 switch)?
I will appreciate your thoughts.
Cheers
Link to comment

Most SFP (not SFP+), unmanaged gigabit switch should work.  We used to recommend a certain Cisco unmanaged SFP gigabit switch (simply because it worked in our office, and was only $99 at the time I recommended it), but that's sold out in many usual places.  I suspect some switches you mentioned are not plug and play, they require configuration to work - please do some research and make sure you can configure them.  A marketing manager here purchased a certain switch and failed to configure it, finally gave up and bought something else.  Later I found other users from Roon forum got the same switch to work, so it's not the fault of the switch.

 

If you have already got a single mode LC-LC duplex fiber, most single mode SFP modules will work.  (You need a pair.)

 

Between the SFP switch and the X1 (or P1) you don't need a FMC.

 

Between the MC210CS and the MC220L - the MC220L is probably more suitable if you have already got more than one LC-LC single mode duplex fiber, and more than one pair of SFP modules, because they differ in the fiber connecctor type (LC vs SC) and one of them accepts SFP module but the other does not.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

Link to comment

If you can source a TRENDnet TEG-S51SFP (4-Port Gigabit Switch with SFP Slot; mine came from Amazon), you will be happy. My setup has Ethernet to the switch, and fiber  between the switch and X1 via  a pair of 10Gtek SFP transceivers (Cisco compatible). A “cheap and cheerful” solution that works well.

--

Wouldn't you really rather have a Lumin?

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...