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Article: C.A.P.S. v2.0


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To use the CAPS with your Denon you'd need to add a USB to SPDIF converter such as M2Tech HiFace or Musical Fidelity V-Link. <br />

<br />

So long as you are methodical and logical building any computer shouldn't be an issue for someone with basic skill. <br />

<br />

Eloise

Eloise

---

...in my opinion / experience...

While I agree "Everything may matter" working out what actually affects the sound is a trickier thing.

And I agree "Trust your ears" but equally don't allow them to fool you - trust them with a bit of skepticism.

keep your mind open... But mind your brain doesn't fall out.

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Dear Chris,<br />

You saved my life once more for about getting an audio server... instead of trying customs clearance of all pieces for C.A.P.S. v2.0 seperately, I'll get all in a single package from Small Green Computer. <br />

Windows is also configured to as in the list. <br />

<br />

He's very helpful, thank you all.<br />

<br />

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Just read the CAPSv2 info and all of the posts made since. I think I'm pretty clear on things and ready to start. Just a couple questions about the power supply;<br />

<br />

1. Will this work OK in the UK (I think USA has lower voltage than UK from the mains) ?<br />

<br />

2. Is it worth upgrading to an audiophile-grade power cable to plug into the external power unit ?<br />

<br />

Thanks !

There are 2 types of people in this world - those who understand binary and those who don't.

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1. It was my first question too. The one I bought from smallgreencomputer has got an auto-switching power supply, so works in any country.<br />

<br />

2. Neither it has a large toroidal transformer nor it's a power hungry system, so I don't think it will make any difference; but I'll make a blind test when it arrives after all.

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Chris-<br />

<br />

Have you or anyone else you know of compared the CAPS 2 to a Mac Mini, Mach2 Mac Mini, Auraliti, or Sonore or BDP-1?<br />

<br />

I'd be interested in hearing impressions, as auditions aren't really practical (not in US, and anyway the companies involved don't seem to support auditions).<br />

<br />

Thanks<br />

<br />

<br />

Main listening (small home office):

Main setup: Surge protectors +>Isol-8 Mini sub Axis Power Strip/Protection>QuietPC Low Noise Server>Roon (Audiolense DRC)>Stack Audio Link II>Kii Control>Kii Three BXT (on their own electric circuit) >GIK Room Treatments.

Secondary Path: Server with Audiolense RC>RPi4 or analog>Cayin iDAC6 MKII (tube mode) (XLR)>Kii Three BXT

Bedroom: SBTouch to Cambridge Soundworks Desktop Setup.
Living Room/Kitchen: Ropieee (RPi3b+ with touchscreen) + Schiit Modi3E to a pair of Morel Hogtalare. 

All absolute statements about audio are false :)

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Can you put PCIe cards in that spare slot using an appropriate adapter..<br />

<br />

...something like the RME HDSPe MADI..<br />

<br />

I'm talking with the size and orientation constraints of the case?<br />

<br />

Cheers<br />

<br />

Wap

New simplified setup: STEREO- Primary listening Area: Cullen Circuits Mod ZP90> Benchmark DAC1>RotelRKB250 Power amp>KEF Q Series. Secondary listening areas: 1/ QNAP 119P II(running MinimServer)>UPnP>Linn Majik DSI>Linn Majik 140's. 2/ (Source awaiting)>Invicta DAC>RotelRKB2100 Power amp>Rega's. Tertiary multiroom areas: Same QNAP>SMB>Sonos>Various. MULTICHANNEL- MacMini>A+(Standalone mode)>Exasound e28 >5.1 analog out>Yamaha Avantage Receiver>Pre-outs>Linn Chakra power amps>Linn Katan front and sides. Linn Trikan Centre. Velodyne SPL1000 Ultra

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I've successfully upgraded my CAPS v1 to v2 spec.<br />

<br />

However, if I have <em>either</em> the SATA noise filter or the tX-USB installed, the CAPS does strange things on boot-up. With the former installed, it freezes on the Windows logo. With the latter installed, it refuses to even commence the boot-up sequence! However, these things <em>only</em> happen when I'm using a 60W linear power supply. If I switch to a 150W SMPS, then the CAPS boots up no problem in both cases. If I remove both the SoTM products, the CAPS boots up perfectly with the 60W linear power supply. The same linear supply is happy to power an additional spinning disc and DVD drive no problem.<br />

<br />

I'm certainly no expert, but it seems to me that the SoTM products 'sap' quite a bit of juice from the power supply, so much so that there simply isn't enough juice left to power even an Atom-based PC. Is this normal for noise filters, I don't know.<br />

<br />

Anyway, just thought I'd share.<br />

<br />

Meanwhile, when I get a chance, I'll compare the CAPS v2 (with SoTMs installed and using a 150W SMPS) with my 'reference' Zalman TNN300 machine and share my thoughts.<br />

<br />

Mani.

Main: SOtM sMS-200 -> Okto dac8PRO -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Tune Audio Anima horns + 2x Rotel RB-1590 amps -> 4 subs

Home Office: SOtM sMS-200 -> MOTU UltraLite-mk5 -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Impulse H2 speakers

Vinyl: Technics SP10 / London (Decca) Reference -> Trafomatic Luna -> RME ADI-2 Pro

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The problem is not that the SoTM parts draw a lot of power. In fact they draw very little. But on power up the filter banks do draw a lot, which can cause the power supply to go into current limit. Depending on the supply the output voltage will drop or even shut off until the power demand drops to a safe region for the supply. This can cause a lot of odd behavior, like repeated boot cycles.<br />

<br />

The typical switching supply can deliver much more peak current, usually for a longer time. And the peak current can be quite high. I have measured 20A on turn on with these fanless boards reverting to 1A once its all up and running.

Demian Martin

auraliti http://www.auraliti.com

Constellation Audio http://www.constellationaudio.com

NuForce http://www.nuforce.com

Monster Cable http://www.monstercable.com

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Hi Demian. Thanks for the explanation. So my linear PS (rated at 12V/5A) copes with the 20A(!) in-rush current on boot-up OK, but can't cope with the additional (and more prolonged) current draw that the SoTM modules add to this. Makes sense.<br />

<br />

Ordinarily, this just wouldn't be an issue - I'd just use the 150W SMPS that I have. However, I don't think enough work has been done on the effects of switching power supplies on sound (if it has, I'd love to be pointed to it) and one of the things I'd like to try is to totally eliminate all SMPSs from my system and find out for myself. It may well be that the sound actually gets worse... for the reasons you cite - SMPSs have a higher peak current for a longer time than linear supplies, probably a good thing in audio. However, last year I installed a dedicated and totally isolated ultra-low impedance earth for my listening room and a 'star' grounding system for all my components. I have a strong suspicion that if SMPSs have any ill effect at all, it will be in corrupting the system's <em>ground</em> with noise, which then propogates along the digital and analog cables between components affecting the sound. Just a hypothesis, but one that I'd like to test. And the CAPS with linear PS was/is key to this testing (I'd rather not use a laptop on battery, which I won't go into). Of course, I can still use the CAPS to do this testing, but it'll have to be without the two SoTM modules, which is a real shame.<br />

<br />

Unless anyone knows of a way to overcome the initial in-rush current and keep the linear PS happy.<br />

<br />

Mani.<br />

<br />

PS. Sorry if this is straying off topic. Maybe I should repost under the 'SoTM' thread?

Main: SOtM sMS-200 -> Okto dac8PRO -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Tune Audio Anima horns + 2x Rotel RB-1590 amps -> 4 subs

Home Office: SOtM sMS-200 -> MOTU UltraLite-mk5 -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Impulse H2 speakers

Vinyl: Technics SP10 / London (Decca) Reference -> Trafomatic Luna -> RME ADI-2 Pro

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An additional linear supply feeding the SOtM card might be the simplest and most beneficial solution (as recommended by Jesus in an earlier post).<br />

<br />

Does your NOS1 require power from CAPS v2? I have my BUS toggle switched off.<br />

<br />

My linear PSU from Paul Hynes (rated 12V/3A) works well with the Auraliti PK90, so it is capable of handling up to 20A transient. It's less demanding than CAPS, and the BUS power is enough for the external drive for file storage (SSD).

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Hi Mani,<br />

<br />

Have you connected power to the power connector on the SOTM PCI to USB card? <br />

I know this is obvious but I had the exact same symptoms as you're describing with the card and my problem was I hadn't connected separate power to that connector. I had assumed it was getting it's power form the PCI slot.<br />

I'm only using a 90 watt picopsu for my CAPS 2.0 and it works fine.<br />

<br />

Bill

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Hi k-man. I'll certainly revisit Jesus's earlier post as this seems like an interesting idea.<br />

<br />

You mention that your Paul Hynes 12V/3A PSU works fine with the Auraliti PK90, but do you have any of the SoTM modules installed?<br />

<br />

Oh and the NOS1 doesn't require power from the CAPS, so I have the BUS toggle switched off also.<br />

<br />

Mani.<br />

<br />

PS. I see you're a David Berning 'fan'. I have his Siegfried 300B amp which sounds very nice... even with its SMPS!

Main: SOtM sMS-200 -> Okto dac8PRO -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Tune Audio Anima horns + 2x Rotel RB-1590 amps -> 4 subs

Home Office: SOtM sMS-200 -> MOTU UltraLite-mk5 -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Impulse H2 speakers

Vinyl: Technics SP10 / London (Decca) Reference -> Trafomatic Luna -> RME ADI-2 Pro

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Hi Steve. Interesting thought, but my inclination is to go for a good linear PS instead. Maybe it's just me, but the thought of having a car battery in my listening room just doesn't resonate.<br />

<br />

Mani.

Main: SOtM sMS-200 -> Okto dac8PRO -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Tune Audio Anima horns + 2x Rotel RB-1590 amps -> 4 subs

Home Office: SOtM sMS-200 -> MOTU UltraLite-mk5 -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Impulse H2 speakers

Vinyl: Technics SP10 / London (Decca) Reference -> Trafomatic Luna -> RME ADI-2 Pro

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Hi Bill. Yeah, the tX-USB is connected to the mobo's molex power output. (If it weren't, I don't think it'd work with the 150W SMPS.) But it's good to know that everthing works fine with a 90W SMPS too.<br />

<br />

Mani.

Main: SOtM sMS-200 -> Okto dac8PRO -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Tune Audio Anima horns + 2x Rotel RB-1590 amps -> 4 subs

Home Office: SOtM sMS-200 -> MOTU UltraLite-mk5 -> 6x Neurochrome 286 mono amps -> Impulse H2 speakers

Vinyl: Technics SP10 / London (Decca) Reference -> Trafomatic Luna -> RME ADI-2 Pro

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I need a little orientation. I am neither a true computerphile nor an audiophile. I like music, but I don’t like CDs. They are too cumbersome. So I took an interest in this site because I wanted to use my computer with store FLAC converted CDs to be the source for music in my living room instead of the DVD player which is attached, of course, to my receiver, that I have been using to play my CDs.<br />

<br />

My question is will this computer be able to do that as currently designed? I have the ability to take input into my receiver from a USB iPOD (not conveniently located interface, but it is nonetheless there). But will this give me access to the J River Media Center application on my TV which is also connected to my receiver for purposes of getting track information off my CDs, etc.<br />

<br />

If this doesn’t fit that bill, could you point me in the right direction for what would work?<br />

<br />

Thanks for any suggestions.<br />

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Hi carlken - The chances are not good this or any computer will work like you want when connected via the iPod USB input on your receiver. This input is designed mostly to browse the host iPod for music instead of accept audio input from a computer like a USB DAC. <br />

<br />

A computer with optical / TosLink output will connect to your receiver most likely. <br />

<br />

Or you can pick up a USB DAC in conjunction with this computer and it will work great.

Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems AudiophileStyleStickerWhite2.0.png AudiophileStyleStickerWhite7.1.4.png

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Hi, Chris -<br />

<br />

It may be time to update the C.A.P.S v2 parts list, as some of the listed pieces will actually no longer work. <br />

<br />

The issue is that the latest generation of the OrigenAE M10 case has the disk eject button toward the right (as viewed from the front) rather than the left. Zygmunt at Perfect Home Theater (the exclusive U.S. supplier) mentioned to me that Origen changed the design because European customers were having trouble finding Bluray drives with the button on the left. (In fact, they are now rare in the U.S. as well.) Owing to this change, the Panasonic and Sony drives pointed to on your part list are no longer suitable.<br />

<br />

A Bluray burner that should work is the Sony BC-5640H-03 (sold through Amazon). A very inexpensive CD/DVD-only burner is the Lite-On DC-8A2SH (CD/DVD) sold by Newegg. This latter could be a good choice if one is only interested in CD ripping on the C.A.P.S. server.<br />

<br />

For either of these (or indeed, any slim slot-loading optical drive), I would recommend the StarTech Slimline SATA to SATA Adapter (SLSATACDADAP) sold on Amazon (for example) that allows you to power the drive using the power cable that comes with the Jetway motherboard. One of the connectors attached to this cable is a 4-pin female floppy connector that plugs into the SP4 header on the adapter.<br />

<br />

Regards-<br />

Rob

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Vortexbox is the neatest network server to rip and store cds and dvds-but needs a pc running Softsqueeze or a dnla server like Squeezebox to play files, (or vlc mediaplayer or an <br />

A C Ryan Playon box for DVD playback)<br />

<br />

A Windows XP pc running JRiver, itunes etc is still the best way to manage an ipod (or Mac running Decibel)<br />

<br />

Chris's CAPS is a very expensive high end build, excellent in its own way...Brilliant purely to playback high quality sound files aquired elsewhere<br />

It has no kb, mouse or monitor, so a good laptop/seperate DAC is still the best cheap "all-in-one" system...<br />

<br />

But the ideal inexpensive (£300)"all-in-one" .flac ripping, dvd ripping must surely be a Linux machine eg Vortexbox <br />

<br />

<br />

The key is to very accurately define what you want to achieve-my aim was to store "every media file" on one harddisk,play anywhere in the house, at fairly high quality.<br />

Denons CEOL at £360 base/£450 complete is an excellent all in one playback system<br />

<br />

Steve Sanford

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Hi Mani,<br />

<br />

As I read your post about the problems with C.A.P.S v. 2 booting that you experienced with the SoTM SATA and tX-USB cards in place I felt like I was experincing deja vu. For nearly three months, I could not get my C.A.P.S. v.2 to boot reliably. I spent countless hours e-mailing and talking on the phone with the vendors of the parts used in this project. I returned for testing most of the parts (motherboard, RAM, SoTM boards, power supplies), only to have them deemed as working perfectly. In the process, I also tried AC adapters from Logic Supply (12V., 102 W.), Simple Design Sonore(12V. 150 W.) and e-bay (12V. ~60 W.). Only the cheapest AC adapter (~$8.00), the one from e-bay, worked reliably with both the SoTM SATA and tX-USB boards in the computer. <br />

<br />

Several weeks ago I posted this problem on the CA Server Board, which elicited some useful replies, but nothing conclusive at that time.<br />

<br />

As I continued to work through the problem, I concluded that the SoTM SATA board had a very large current demand on turn-on, and that the better AC adapters have in-rush current limiters which cause the system to fail to boot.<br />

<br />

The AC adapter that does work sounds fairly good, especially when plugged into a power conditioner. I know it puts out a lot of hash on the AC line because I've heard the difference on an FM radio on the same circuit when the adapter is plugged in and when it is not. If anyone would like more information about the AC adpater that works, please send a PM.<br />

<br />

Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in any of the products mentioned or in the vendors of these products.<br />

<br />

Best regards,<br />

Elston<br />

<br />

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All editions of Windows 7 include Remote Desktop Connection:<br />

<br />

•You can use Remote Desktop to initiate a connection from any edition of Windows 7.<br />

<br />

•You can connect to computers running Windows 7 Professional, Windows 7 Ultimate, or Windows 7 Enterprise.<br />

<br />

•You can't use Remote Desktop Connection to connect to computers running Windows 7 Starter, Windows 7 Home Basic, or Windows 7 Home Premium.<br />

<br />

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