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    The Computer Audiophile

    Moving Components and Music

     

     

    Audio: Listen to this article.

     

     

    This week I completed most of a listening room project I'd thought about for a couple years. During the process, I installed a newly designed Sonore opticalModule Deluxe. Today, I couldn't be happier with how everything turned out and the level of performance I'm getting. 

     


    Backstory 

     

    I moved my audio system into a new listening room nearly five years ago. Since that time I've thought quite a bit about how to improve the space sonically and visually. It's just how I think, whether the improvements are needed or not. One improvement I've wanted to attempt, but could never figure out how to pull off, is moving my audio components out of the listening space proper and into the adjoining crawl space. 

     

    The items that I've always struggled to solve have been audio cabling, data routing via the network, and heat. I'm very fortunate to have my own listening space and a wife who encourages me to improve it how I see fit. Because of this I can put holes in walls, holes in the floor, and do some otherwise crazy stuff. 

     


    What, Why, and How

     

    The most difficult issue to solve has always been heat. The crawlspace is insulated, but still heats up to very uncomfortable temps because of the sun hitting the roof. Combine this with audio components that tend to run fairly hot and give off their own heat, and it's a recipe for disaster. 

     

    Over the weekend an idea came to mind that made this component move possible. I thought, what if I cut a six inch hole in the access panel between the crawl space and the unfinished attic next to my listening room, then installed a portable air conditioner in the crawl space and ran the flexible vent hose through the six inch hole? The attic has free flowing air vents to the outside, so the A/C unit is essentially outputting its hot air through a window. A trip to the local hardware store for a six inch hole saw and other miscellaneous essentials, and I was headlong into the project. 

     

    Why go through all this trouble? Because visual clutter eats away at my quality of life. Looking at a dozen components and twelve channels worth of interconnects and power cables causes my brain to get overloaded, for lack of a better term. Even though some of the components feature wonderful aesthetic designs, they are still objects in my field of view and they all need at least a couple cables. When I listen to music I want to relax and not be bothered by stacks of gear and a rat's nest of cabling. I feel crowded and encroached upon by gear that seems to multiply with new boxes for this or that. It's a first world problem I know, but ideally I'd only have loudspeakers visible in my room.

     

    Back to climate control in the crawl space. I installed an LG LP1419IVSM portable air conditioner because I already had it. Last year I replaced the LG with a Midea MAW08V1QWT U-Shaped window air conditioner that enables the window to close, essentially places the noisy compressor outside. I highly recommend this Midea unit!

     

    I set the LG air conditioner's fan on low and the temperature to 75. The small crawl space is quickly and quietly cooled, even with all the components powered up. I can hear the LG unit if I shut off everything else in my room and really listen for it while the compressor is active. It doesn't really bother me because I never do that, but I am considering adding ROCKWOOL insulation to both keep the cold air the tiny bit of sound locked in the crawl space. 

     

    Note: The LG air conditioner isn't able to shut off its fan one the are is brought to the desired temperature. To reduce power consumption, I purchased an Inkbird ITC-308-WiFi. This device has two outlets. One turns on when the temperature is above a specified threshold, and the other turns on when the temp is below a specified threshold. Obviously only a single outlet is on at one time. I use one in my chicken coop, that turns on the heater outlet when the temp gets too cold outside. The LG AC unit is connected to the "cooling" outlet configured to turn on when the temperature in the crawl space is at or above 77 degrees. 

     

    Once the temperature was under control, I moved almost all my components into the crawl space. I didn't move the front left and right Constellation amplifiers because I haven't yet figured out how to reduce the heat in the crawl space on the West side of my room. The AC unit is only on the East side because I can run the vent hose out to the ventilated attic.

     

    Five Mytek Brooklyn+ amps, two Transparent power units, a Constellation Preamp, Aurender W20SE, dCS Rossini APEX, Sonore signatureRendu SE optical, Merging Technologies HAPI MkII, and a few other items are all in the crawl space. I've always used power outlets in the crawl space for my components, so power was no issue. The remaining cables to be run back through the walls were for the center channel speaker, the subwoofer, and the two main amplifiers. 

     

    I drilled two 2 inch holes through the walls behind the amplifiers. One hole for the power cable. One hole for audio cables. I used the 2 inch size because it can accommodate the large end of a high end power cable. One mistake I made was purchasing 2 inch Furniture Hole Covers to finish the holes. These covers are terrible because they fall out of the hole easily and the cover doesn't snap into place easily. I've since ordered Twist Lock Grommets for these holes. I use the same grommets in other areas of my room and love them. 

     

    I also drilled two 2 inch holes behind the subwoofer. The subwoofer needs power and a single XLR audio cable. I prefer to separate all audio cables from power cables, even though both are shielded very well. 

     

     

    IMG_9126.jpg IMG_9134.jpg

     

    IMG_9147.jpg IMG_9149.jpg

     

     

    room.jpg

     

     


    My home network is fairly extensive, with 16 strands of fiber optic cabling from the basement to the listening room on the upper level. In the East Sid crawl space with all the audio components I have a small fanless 8 port switch, connected via fiber to the basement, fiber to a Sonore signatureRendu SE optical, and copper to the Aurender and dCS units. In the West side crawl space I have a Netgear AV switch (link) that handles all of my Ravenna audio traffic (immersive audio system). 

     

    As part of this component move, I also moved my CAPS Twenty computer to the basement. The CAPS computer needs to be physically connected to both my main network and my Ravenna network via different network cards. The main network is simple because I just plug in its 10Gb Ethernet card to the basement switch a few feet away. Connecting it to the Netgear switch two floors above required a different solution and series testing. 

     

    Ravenna is an audio protocol that is robust enough to record entire symphony orchestras in DXD, with low latency and no dropped packets. There are no do-overs when recording live performances. To achieve this robustness, specific network cards and switches are required. Nothing crazy, but they must meet the minimum specifications. If there is any hint of an issue, the Merging Technologies software will scream at you in red letters. I've experienced it during my testing. 

     

    This is where I entered an unknown. I needed to connect CAPS to the switch upstairs, but didn't want to take a chance with a fiber capable network card that wasn't certified for Ravenna. If the card and its driver don't support PTP, it won't be pretty. My solution was to stay with the JCAT NET Card XE, per it via the JCAT OPTIMO 3 DUO and output Gigabit Ethernet cover copper CAT7 cable to a newly designed Sonore opticalModule Deluxe with Sonore custom power supply. I connected the opticalModule Deluxe to a strand of fiber in the basement, and connected the opposite end of that fiber cable to an SFP module in the Netgear AV switch in the West side crawl space next to my listening room. 

     

    opticalModule_dx_rear.pngThis provided CAPS Twenty with a direct connection to the Ravenna network. I was unsure if it would work due to the Ravenna requirements and the incredibly high data rates I require for my twelve channel immersive audio system. I don't like to mess around, so I went right for the jugular. I queued up the highest resolution, best sounding track in my immersive library and let it rip through the newly designed Sonore opticalModule Deluxe. BINGO! My 12 channel 24 bit / 352.8 DXD album from Morten Lindberg's 2L label sounded stupendous With the full isolation provided by the Sonore opticalModule Deluxe. Not a single sonic hiccup while playing the entire album! 

     

    Let's calculate the bit rate for a second. The tracks are 24 bit, but I send the audio out of the Merging driver at 32 bits. This makes the equation (number of channels x bit depth x sample rate = bit rate) 12 x 32 x 352,800 = 135,475,200  or 135 Mbps! Comparing this to CD quality 2 x 16 x 44,100 = 1,411,200 or 1.4 Mbps, one can see how much more musical data is being sent.

     

    Why does this even matter? Because some high end audio devices struggle with ultra high bitrate music. Much of this is two channel audio sent through applications such as HQPlayer or PGGB. An upsampled 2 channel file sent at 24 bit / 1,536 kHz has a bit rate of 73.7 Mbps, and is enough to choke many devices. As one can see, this is close to half of the bit rate I sent through the new Sonore opticalModule Deluxe, and playback was smooth as silk. It's also not lost on me that the sound was absolutely perfect. The new opticalModule Deluxe will remain in my immersive system, no matter what configuration changes I dream up next. 

     


    Wrap-up Notes

     

    When I first moved the components into the crawl space, I also moved a bunch of stuff out of my listening room. This changed the listening environment a bit because sound could no longer bounce around the components (in a good way). At first I was devastated. I hated the sound. I was hearing bass bounce off the east side wall, where all my components previously sat. This now empty space was an issue, but there was no way I was going to bring the components back out. 

     

    IMG_9102.jpgI pushed an old chest, with a McIntosh MC275 amp on top, and a few records and books, into place. This made a huge difference, but still wasn't perfect. Then I pushed the chest a couple inches closer to the wall and all was right in the world. I go goosebumps. The sound was perfect! I never would've thought that last couple inches would make a difference, but I repeated this experiment a few times and reproduced the sonic benefits every time. Room setup matters!

     

    Some readers may be asking how I control the Constellation preamp without access to the infrared receiver on the preamp's front panel. I connect a USB cable from the Aurender W20SE to the Constellation unit. This enables will control of the preamp via Aurender's Conductor app for iPad and iPhone. It's one of those little known features that's huge!

     

    Eagle-eyed readers may also have noticed the original 2 inch Furniture Hole Covers require a 2 inch hole in the wall, but the newly ordered Twist Lock Grommets require a 2 3/8 inch hole. This poses a problem because hole saws work best with a pilot drill bit to hold the drill steady. The solution to making a larger hole with a hole saw is to use a hole saw guide and adapter, and to place the smaller hole saw inside the larger hole saw. Here are a couple photos of the tool. This will save you hours of time some day :~)

     

    IMG_9120.jpg IMG_9119.jpg

     


    Last, what's next on my list of listening room improvements? The one that scares me most, but one that I think of all the time now, is what to do with the center channel speaker cable. My current plan is to put a hole in the carpet directly behind the speaker stand, drill through the floor, then run the cable to the east side craw space and back up through the floor to the Mytek amp. I don't have confidence that I can pull this one off by myself, so I want to hire a real professional, with skills and the right tools. I don't even think I could watch while the professional cut into the wool carpet.

     

    In addition to that cable routing, I dream of routing power and data cabling under the floor and up through the floor directly under my listening chair. This would enable me to remove cables running from the West side wall, across the floor, to the listing position. Perhaps the same person who routes the center channel speaker cable can tackle this one for me. I won't be able to watch this either. 

     

    Anyway, I'm thrilled with the results of the component move and the placement of the new Sonore opticalModule Deluxe into my immersive system. What started out as a bare room with two TAD speakers in 2018, keeps improving and continues to improve the quality of my music listening life. 

     

     

     




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    Looks like those dozen free Wilson’s are deployed perfectly. Well done.

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    1 minute ago, MarkusBarkus said:

    ...well, if you change your mind on DIY of the center cable, I offer this tip: cut a small hole in the carpet, and *then* drill. Do *not* drill through the carpet. 
     

    You'll never stop the drill fast enough once you notice it winding up and pulling strands from the carpet/base. Whoah Nelly. I did that as a young apprentice circa 1977 and I think I "donated" that week's paycheck to the boss.

     

    Your room was already aces, but I like the no-gear look too. I have been puzzling over moving my gear into an adjacent powder room, drilling holes as you did, etc. So far, I have not had sign-off from CENTCOM.
     

    Very enjoyable write-up @Computer Audiophile

    Thanks for the tip and the kind words @MarkusBarkus!

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    Those Midea units are amazing. I have one 4 feet away from my head as I type this and it's nearly silent. Your room was amazing, now it's more amazing!

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    The room looks great. I would add more bass traps in the extra space if you can find some visually attractive ones, as I personally don’t think DSP is a substitute for reducing the room modes in the first place.

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    3 hours ago, Richard Dale said:

    The room looks great. I would add more bass traps in the extra space if you can find some visually attractive ones, as I personally don’t think DSP is a substitute for reducing the room modes in the first place.

    Thanks Richard. 

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    Quote

    The solution to making a larger hole with a hole saw is  to use a hole saw guide and adapter, and to place the smaller hole saw inside the larger hole saw. 

     

    this alone is worth the price of admission 😃

     

    Much easier than the way I have done it by plugging the old hole and starting over 

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    6 minutes ago, cjf said:

    Looks clean, nice work!

     

    Mmmm...Rockwool. I'll be building a new house within the next year or two and it will be ALL Rockwool. 4" Exterior and 5 1/2" between the studs. So almost 10" of it in the walls alone.

     

    I'm hoping for the listening room to be as quiet as King Tuts tomb.

    Nice!

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    All of this talk about the side attic and building a new house with lots of insulation gives me a lot of pause.  Be very careful of humidity.  

     

    Building science has evolved, but the building industry is somewhat behind.  There are two seasons of a TV show on Public TV and streamed on YouTube.

     

    https://homediagnosis.tv

     

    Download the "Proof is Possible" booklet before you watch the show, as it is a great primer.

     

    OK, now back to Audio.

     

    @The Computer Audiophile  The room is looking clean.  Love it!   

     

     

     

     

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    Re: Attic heat

    I am in Central Texas (2-3 weeks straight off 105+ temps) and when we moved in 25 years ago, the upstairs (half of the house only) was unbearable in the summer.  900 sq ft and the 1.5 ton AC for upstairs only could not keep up.  The roof was too high for shade and it is a collector for afternoon sun (I know...I should put solar but that is a battle).  Temps upstairs could reach mid-80's even with 100% AC.

     

    After a hail storm (15-18 years ago) allowed a new roof, I did two things just about simultaneously: 1) the roofers installed a ridge vent, and 2) I had a solar attic exhaust fan from Costco installed.  World of difference that was immediate...at 100 can easily maintain 76 and only starts creeping up when temps get closer to 110.

     

    Note: 

    A bit too clean for my tastes...needs a rack of vinyl on one wall...😄

     

    Very nice.  Thanks for the updates.

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    Don't dare hesitate about the "home improvement" tips - I love that stuff! Both the hole saw guide and adapter (Milwaukee, nice) and the twist-lock grommets are excellent ideas. I've also read with interest about units like the Midea that put the compressor where you're less likely to hear it. (Maybe I geek out about this stuff because my dad owned a little local hardware store when I was growing up.)

     

    A project I'm thinking about asking a local HVAC guy to take on is putting sound baffles in the duct between my main HVAC air return and the indoor HVAC equipment in a utility closet in the garage. It's a big straight duct, great for airflow but not quiet enough for my taste. (There are many articles about how to DIY these baffles so they quiet things down but still allow the needed airflow.)

     

    Love the opticalModule Deluxe. I'm using a little Fitlet3 mini-PC with optical Ethernet input as a UPnP endpoint and NAA and am very pleased with the results. It's a less bulky and faster connection than copper Ethernet, and fiber is much cheaper than exotic Ethernet cables. Also, subjectively I like the sound better. 🙂

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    On 7/22/2023 at 10:59 PM, bobfa said:

    All of this talk about the side attic and building a new house with lots of insulation gives me a lot of pause.  Be very careful of humidity.  

     

    Building science has evolved, but the building industry is somewhat behind.  There are two seasons of a TV show on Public TV and streamed on YouTube.

     

    https://homediagnosis.tv

     

    Download the "Proof is Possible" booklet before you watch the show, as it is a great primer.

     

    OK, now back to Audio.

     

    @The Computer Audiophile  The room is looking clean.  Love it!   

     

     

     

     

     

    It appears that @The Computer Audiophile has some kind of Rigid Foam board with Radiant Barrier in the side room where the equipment is now located. Its hard to tell if that is the roofline showing in the picture or just a wall separating the crawlspace from another area in the attic. If more insulation is added later it should be fine as long as no additional vapor barriers are added between the various spaces that could trap moisture. Rockwool would be an ideal choice since it doesn't have any paper or plastic facings on either side of the batts. Air should move thru it nicely to keep things dry (or at least as dry as it currently is).

     

    Humidity is definitely something to be cautious of. I lived on the East Coast for many years where in the summer you could cut the humidity in the air with a knife (so to speak). It wasn't as bad as Florida but on most days it didn't seem too far off either. 

     

    My house at the time (All Wood) (Built in 1900) only had plaster weaved with Horse hair as a means of insulation for the walls (Likely built by Mennonites). No insulation of any kind anywhere else (paper water/vapor barrier) . Building science (And tape measures apparently) were all optional back then 😀

     

    With that said, and to the old school builders credit (And all previous owners before me for that matter), I believe the one big reason a house that old survived for so long in a pretty high humidity climate was because it had no insulation. It could easily dry out, both inwards and outwards. A big mistake some make in these old houses is to try and fill in the cavities with insulation (or spray foam..gasp) to try and warm it up or cool it off. Rot will soon follows if not done correctly. In any case, it sure wasn't fun paying that heating bill in the Winter or the Elec bill in the summer for the AC 😳.

     

    I'm now in CO climate zone 5 (@7500ft elevation) with average humidity in the 30% range (though this year has been an odd ball year with more humidity than usual). Even despite this though, the new house will be built to dry in both directions.

     

    My apologies for the somewhat off topic rant

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    Chris, this is heresy to most audiophiles, but with state of the art DSP, there are many more speaker placement options available.  I’ve got my TAD R1s tucked in the corners of my 12 by 18 room, and they sound fantastic.  There is quite a lot of sound damping in the corner and side wall to control mid bass and up reflections.  And the bass boost of 10-15db must be addressed with DSP, which Mitch Barnett does masterfully.  The end result is quite astonishing.  The extra headroom in the bass is amazing.  As Andrew Jones put it, your woofers are barely moving. If you go to the pro side you will see Genelec suggests speakers should either be very close or very far from the wall behind them.  Now with DSP very close is a real option and it provides much deeper, smoother and more powerful bass.  

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    8 minutes ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

    Just ordered the Sensible Air Pro :~)

     

    You may have seen a while back that I was asking about Ductless mini split AC units. The Midea U units are what I ended up with instead, and the Sensibo makes controlling them, and air quality, super simple. I hope it works as well for you.

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    1 minute ago, AudioDoctor said:

     

    You may have seen a while back that I was asking about Ductless mini split AC units. The Midea U units are what I ended up with instead, and the Sensibo makes controlling them, and air quality, super simple. I hope it works as well for you.

    My main use will be to control the LG AC. The unit can only be either cooling with the compressor on or not cooling with the fan on. It can't cool the room, then shut itself off like a whole home system. I believe the Sensibo will be able to turn the LG off when the crawl space reaches the desired temp.

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    1 minute ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

    My main use will be to control the LG AC. The unit can only be either cooling with the compressor on or not cooling with the fan on. It can't cool the room, then shut itself off like a whole home system. I believe the Sensibo will be able to turn the LG off when the crawl space reaches the desired temp.

     

    I think it will be able to do that as well.

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