Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About cjf

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I would look at "Bluesound" products to accomplish this task. One of their self powered devices that use Wireless or ETH and team with ROON as an Endpoint (if you use that).
  2. So if I am reading the description correctly you have your advertised SSID point located on the ground floor and the "End Point Link" connecting the Ground floor to the floor above is broken? You have a well isolated environment (via brick) so signal strength is of concern? If this is correct and if it were me, I would look to purchase a Ubiquti AirMax device (or two) to create a strong Point to Point Link between the two floors and restore your connectivity (and maybe even better it). These devices are very powerful with distances up to 15Km so powering thru the Brick walls shouldn't be too big a deal but even if it were, the power of the devices should at least allow for a signal as strong or better than you have used before. I use a few Ubiquti switches today (Unifi Platform) and they are very nice and fairly cheap. They so have their quirks but are very reliable and hard to beat in terms of the Price/Performance ratio. If you require a "Tagged VLAN 1" for management purposes then you will need to get creative (Unifi platform can't do tagged VLAN 1) but short of that its a solid option.
  3. As to the question on why someone would use USB at all compared to Ethernet/WiFi the answer depends on what one is doing with their system. At this stage there are no Eth/Wifi solutions that work well or at all for room correction purposes so this leaves USB and then only a few USB implementations can do multiple channels in a Bi-Directional manor. I would prefer hard wired Ethernet if the option was there but at this point its not so USB it is, for me. At the end of the day any SQ differences between ETH/USB/Wireless are so small in the grand scheme of other things that bring real value add to ones listening that its almost not worth discussing USB cables at all. Let's not forget also the loss of hearing that goes along with the long term effects of the audiophile hobby in general. Unless your listening to your system at 65db all the time (why bother) any SQ changes between the various interfaces/cables will be wiped out easily by a months worth of 90db plus jam sessions....where the real fun begins. I myself prefer 105db or so. You gotta feel it to get a sense of "Being there"..IMO
  4. I've used quite a few USB Cables over the years but the one I've stuck with the longest (5yrs or so) and still use today is the Wireworld Platinum Starlight cable between my NUC and my Lynx Hilo. I guess it sounds pretty good and have no complaints with it. But with that said, I can't say with a straight face what percentage (if any) the enjoyable sound I hear has anything at all to do with the $900 USB cable connecting my server and DAC. I've also got a Audioquest Cinnamon and Carbon lying around for random usage. Beside these I've also got Belkin and Monoprice USB cables (with the gold tips!) at my disposal as well. At one point I compared them all and stuck with the Wireworld for whatever reason but I suspect it had something to do with not believing a cheaper $15 cable could sound better than a far more expensive one I already spent good money on 😳. Live and learn
  5. I would run away from that device as fast as possible. Not worth the risk of damage to your nice/expensive MA 800. I say this not really understanding how this contraption is supposed to hook up in the chain so I am making an assumption that they are wanting you to run the speaker level outputs from the Amp INTO this little thing which then feeds the headphones. Sounds like a questionable approach to me and may place a load on the Amp that its not happy with. Plus, are they expecting you to constantly unhook this thing from the Amp each time you want to use it without headphones? In doing so, you may place extra stress on the cabling/cabling interfaces over time resulting in premature failure of those hard components. Not worth it IMO. Just by a half decent headphone Amp off of Audiogon and call it a day. Benchmark DAC1 goes for cheap these days and will give you all you need and more.
  6. Go thick..Thin volumes in home use are not really needed for most people. Thin VOL is like a credit card, you can create the VOL larger than the actual space you have on the NAS which can get you into trouble later if your not paying attention. Thick VOL, you take the hit right away and then don't have to worry about it afterwards. The VOL is the size you make it..full stop (unless you extend it of course). Ideally you wouldn't make the VOL at MAX size of RAW disk capacity. You leave yourself a small sliver of un-allocated space to expand in case usage sneaks up on you and this by yourself some time to purchase more disk. If you allocate all RAW space and it fills, your screwed just the same whether Thin or Thick. Some may even say thick is better in terms of performance and this is probably true in home usage. Not so much true in the enterprise world these days though. Enterprise typically use Thin on the storage array side and thick on the server side. Double Thin = Bad
  7. Here's your cure to those pesky bright Blue lights. Drink more booze while listening. Works for me Awesome wine by the way:
  8. Curious if when you install the Amazon Desktop App if there are any Sound Card settings to choose from? Someone previously mentioned wanting ASIO/WASPI support. If there are no such options I assume the App is just using the standard Windows driver (assuming your using Windows). Using just the windows driver may call into question if playback is BitPerfect or not. I get that this is brand new and probably has plenty of updates to come in terms of the Amazon Desktop App itself but something to consider when comparing the Amazon offering to other well established alternatives like Roon..etc (for now). I've not yet jumped into the Streaming world but without Apps like Roon/JRiver in line between a streaming service and my playback chain things like Room Correction are not an option. In my case, without Roon my Subs wont even work so it will be awhile before I see myself signing up for these types of services. Long story short, I wouldn't stick the fork into Roon or similar Apps just yet just because the giant has walked into the room and IMO for this reason I see no reason why QoBuzz or Tidal have anything to worry about....yet With that said, I certainly wouldn't complain if Roon decided to partner with Amazon for streaming given the attractive Amazon price compared to the others.
  9. Ran across these devices while looking at IP Camera related products. I've not tired or used them myself but thought of the possibilities for those into powering Computer Audio related devices via 12vdc. Product #1: PoE Driven Power Supply with Lithium Battery Backup Tango1B 12vdc powered 5 Port Gig Switch: NetWay5B
  10. Here's all 4 on Discogs..Good Stuff https://www.discogs.com/Various-Street-Jams-Electric-Funk-Parts-1-4/release/184399
  11. Bricasti M5 is the best one I've found thus far. I've got mine for sale if interested? I can't use it in my current config anymore which is a damn shame but it sounds awesome if you don't intend to use room correction in your setup. That is, until the day comes where such correction works properly via ETH instead of USB.
  12. I'm a fan of this series if you like this type of music. Super Clean recordings with bass punch for days
  13. IMO, if your going to go thru the effort of ripping all your albums its probably best to save up for the best unit you can get your hands on. If it were me, I would hold out for an Ayre QA-9 or a Benchmark ADC1 and as Mitcho mentioned, I'm sure the Hilo will do a fine job as well which is probably the cheaper option of the 3 mentioned and has other capabilities you may be able to use as well.
  14. I've not heard it but I guess if you don't already have most of the included disks in original form then its probably worth it. I've got basically every one of their albums that I'm aware of in original form and the original Redbooks are pretty hard to beat if they are just that, the originals or a pressing close to that. I did buy the Immersion Box only because I was curious and had not owned the Redbook version of that Album yet. Its damn good in HiRez but I would be hard pressed to find a better version of DSOTM then I have now which is the MFSL version in RedBook which is why I have not splurged on the HiRez boxset of that one. If it were me and I had about $150 cash in hand I would rather open a Discogs account and look for one of the older RedBooks copies of anything you don't already own. In all honestly, I think the original RedBook (pre-remaster) version of "The Wall" sounds a good clip better than the newer remaster does. The fist few tracks on that Album convinced me like when the plane comes crashing down hearing the crazy Red Baron pilot off i the distance laughing as he comes in for the dive bomb. Much more bass impact and rumble there then the remaster. Another Brick in the Wall is another one with the Kids on the Playground. I think they sound clearer on the original version. Comfortably Numb again better. Just my 2cents of course
  • Create New...