The true experimental tweak thread

[agladstone]

So what exactly are these magical DC Blockers? Where can I get them? (Can they be used in Amps since I don't have powered speakers (actually my Martin Logan Summit X speakers (my main listening room front pair) does have powered subwoofers built in) 

[agladstone]

Impossible to actually see from the photo - but this is my recent DIY "tweak" to my speakers (did the same for my subs too) - I placed my speakers on 5/8" wood (I may "upgrade these to 1.5" Maple cutting boards, wanted to just test theory with what I had on hand first) 

Speaker spikes going on top / into the wood planks. 

Then the wood planks are sitting on top of 2" diameter/ 1" high Sorbathane "feet". 

This has really cleaned up the low end in my system and tightened and focused the low end too! (Not bad for $20/ speaker for the Sorbathane feet (Amazon - isolateIT brand). 

 

 

 

 

[mozes]

58 minutes ago, austinpop said:

 

Nope wasn't me! 

 

Best I can tell, the Ref 10 orderers are Romaz and Bamber.

 

@mozes I hear you about complexity - and cost! But I do remain interested.

For one thing, I am not at the bleeding edge :

[mozes]

2 minutes ago, agladstone said:

Impossible to actually see from the photo - but this is my recent DIY "tweak" to my speakers (did the same for my subs too) - I placed my speakers on 5/8" wood (I may "upgrade these to 1.5" Maple cutting boards, wanted to just test theory with what I had on hand first) 

Speaker spikes going on top / into the wood planks. 

Then the wood planks are sitting on top of 2" diameter/ 1" high Sorbathane "feet". 

This has really cleaned up the low end in my system and tightened and focused the low end too! (Not bad for $20/ speaker for the Sorbathane feet (Amazon - isolateIT brand). 

 

 

 

 

Nice job!

[agladstone]

5 minutes ago, mozes said:

Nice job!

 

@mozes Thanks! - I do think that if I take the next step and replace the 5/8" MDF with 1.5" Maple Cutting boards it will even increase SQ further, I just wanted to see if my theory worked to begin with! 

If I place my hand or foot on the Wood plank, I feel a lot of vibrations, but when I place my hand or foot on the floor beneath it - Nothing! 

The spikes coupled to the wood draw alkbthe vibrations out of the speaker cabinet into the wood and then the sorbathane feet decouple the wood plank from the floor / room and don't allow them to penetrate. 

 

 

[mozes]

21 minutes ago, agladstone said:

 

@mozes Thanks! - I do think that if I take the next step and replace the 5/8" MDF with 1.5" Maple Cutting boards it will even increase SQ further, I just wanted to see if my theory worked to begin with! 

If I place my hand or foot on the Wood plank, I feel a lot of vibrations, but when I place my hand or foot on the floor beneath it - Nothing! 

The spikes coupled to the wood draw alkbthe vibrations out of the speaker cabinet into the wood and then the sorbathane feet decouple the wood plank from the floor / room and don't allow them to penetrate. 

 

 

Great thinking, scientific approach I like it.

I am currently looking at what is supposed to be a good affordable alternative to Stillpoints. The new Gaia stands from Isoaccoustics. http://www.isoacoustics.com/products/gaia-series/gaia-i/

A friend I trust in audio recommended these, If I get them I will share my observation

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, agladstone said:

Is the bag of sand jus adding weight to the ISO speaker stands, or are the speaker stands being supported by the bags of sand? 

 

Both! The speakers are applying pressure to the bags. This is very important when using clear quartz, since these minerals will turn pressure and vibrations into heat. They are ofcourse also adding weight to the construction.

 

This idea is used in Entreq Catfoots that is the best damping feet's I have ever used (and still use under my Brooklyn DAC).

 

The idea is also used by Acoustic Revive in this quartz underboard https://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/rst38/rst38_01.html which I would love to buy for my Ariston RD40 turntable.

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, agladstone said:

So what exactly are these magical DC Blockers? Where can I get them? (Can they be used in Amps since I don't have powered speakers (actually my Martin Logan Summit X speakers (my main listening room front pair) does have powered subwoofers built in) 

 

Here is the ATL Hi-Fi AC mains DC blocker trap filter that I use http://www.atlhifi.com/shop/fully-assembled-devices/dc-blocker-trap-filter-assembled-in-case/

 

Here is the Hosa GLT-255 XLR in-line DC blockers that I use for my active speakers XLR cables https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GLT255

You can find them at eBay as well.

 

Both can be used in amps ac main connections and XLR ICs.

[agladstone]

38 minutes ago, mozes said:

Great thinking, scientific approach I like it.

I am currently looking at what is supposed to be a good affordable alternative to Stillpoints. The new Gaia stands from Isoaccoustics. http://www.isoacoustics.com/products/gaia-series/gaia-i/

A friend I trust in audio recommended these, If I get them I will share my observation

I looked at their website and I actually think the ISO Aluminum modular stands (for big tower speakers like mine) may even be a better alternative to the Gia feet? From what I've learned from my experiment, you need something for the vibrations to travel to before decoupling/ isolating the speakers from the floor (or stand)? 

Try my tweak first, $20 per speaker and can return to amazon if you don't like it:) 

[agladstone]

2 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Here is the ATL Hi-Fi AC mains DC blocker trap filter that I use http://www.atlhifi.com/shop/fully-assembled-devices/dc-blocker-trap-filter-assembled-in-case/

 

Here is the Hosa GLT-255 XLR in-line DC blockers that I use for my active speakers XLR cables https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GLT255

You can find them at eBay as well.

 

Both can be used in amps ac main connections as XLR ICs.

Thanks! I'm going to give one of these a try! 

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, agladstone said:

Impossible to actually see from the photo - but this is my recent DIY "tweak" to my speakers (did the same for my subs too) - I placed my speakers on 5/8" wood (I may "upgrade these to 1.5" Maple cutting boards, wanted to just test theory with what I had on hand first) 

Speaker spikes going on top / into the wood planks. 

Then the wood planks are sitting on top of 2" diameter/ 1" high Sorbathane "feet". 

This has really cleaned up the low end in my system and tightened and focused the low end too! (Not bad for $20/ speaker for the Sorbathane feet (Amazon - isolateIT brand). 

 

 

 

 

 

Really nice and good looking too agladstone! Thanks for sharing! ?

[agladstone]

Does not seem to offer USA AC outlet option, I suppose I could DIY with the PCB board unit?? 

[Cornan]

1 minute ago, agladstone said:

Does not seem to offer USA AC outlet option, I suppose I could DIY with the PCB board unit?? 

 

I know Alex at ALT Hi-Fi can make a US version and that @mozes have ordered one from him recently. ?

[Middy]

 

[Cornan]

7 minutes ago, Middy said:

 

Thanks Dave! Interesting, I will surely be a silent follower of that thread. ?

[Cornan]

Here is my first turntable tweak so far.

 

 

My original idea was to completely remove the rubber feet's that is pretty dry. However, after just trying them this way with rubber feet's in-between the aluminium cones convinced me to buy new rubber feet's as well (Linn LP-12 feet's) and use them this way. I can jump with both feets beside the turntable without the record skipping track. ?

[mozes]

17 hours ago, agladstone said:

I looked at their website and I actually think the ISO Aluminum modular stands (for big tower speakers like mine) may even be a better alternative to the Gia feet? From what I've learned from my experiment, you need something for the vibrations to travel to before decoupling/ isolating the speakers from the floor (or stand)? 

Try my tweak first, $20 per speaker and can return to amazon if you don't like it:) 

That's a great idea. I will check it out

[Cornan]

I have just ordered a Denon DL-103 cartridge, a silver ground wire (yeah, I left the Entreq Eartha ground wire idea due to space requirements), a new drive belt plus a couple of other things for my Ariston RD40 turntable project. I did promise myself to keep my hifi investments to the vinyl project only, but due to my latest finds in my B setup I couldn't resist to ask Alex at ALT Hi-Fi for a quotation for 2 pcs 30cm AC mains starquad cables with rhodium Oyaide style Schuko plugs and IECs for my Gopherts and a special made assembled DC Blocker trap filter with a Schuko socket and a 150cm AC mains starquad with a rhodium Oyaide style plug. I am very confident that this will be very close if not the end-game for my B setup as is. ?

 

Now it is also time to figure out the best way to polish up all the aluminium parts on the Ariston Deck plus dig out my beloved DREMEL 3000 that have been collecting dust for atleast 3-4 years. If anyone knows the best polish for aluminium please let me know! ?

[agladstone]

I should inquire to see if he can make the DC Blockers (and power cables) with USA plugs (I don't see why not)? 

[Cornan]

9 minutes ago, agladstone said:

I should inquire to see if he can make the DC Blockers (and power cables) with USA plugs (I don't see why not)? 

 

I am sure Alex will help you. He is very nice, honest and helpful! ?

[Middy]

3 hours ago, Cornan said:

https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/mothers-mag-aluminum-polish-metal-polish?gclid=CjwKCAjw47bLBRBkEiwABh-PkU_cZZUqYItr7rsgcpm2BKXvCPfoHP3VExzVe8IOlWMEo4ehD63wThoC9D0QAvD_BwE#details

 

Now it is also time to figure out the best way to polish up all the aluminium parts on the Ariston Deck plus dig out my beloved DREMEL 3000 that have been collecting dust for atleast 3-4 years. If anyone knows the best polish for aluminium please let me know! ?

Read more  

 

For all there are 2 ways of polishing metals. Removing the top layer with cutting of the top layer from a blade to sand paper to micro grits in paste. Or use chemicals to remove or reverse oxides / electrolysis. 

 

A dremel is great for some things but metals plastics can be tricky. If you can mop (cloth polishing wheel) or spin the parts in a lathe you have a chance of polishing even and fixing mistakes. A dremel head is hard to evenly polish large areas but has a danger of picking up grit and can scratch the surface badly in a second. Uneven polishing leaves swirling marks.

A gentle chemical polish as linked above has a micro abrasive sometimes but extra time hand polishing gives good results. 

With parts that  have lathe turning lines .....polish in the same direction. 

1 Cut up a few microfibre cloths for clean application of polish

2 paper towel to remove after polishing

3 a finishing microfibre cloth

4 use alcohol or soapy water to remove dust and grease before starting polishing

5 apply a little polish to a clean cloth and rub all parts evenly. Be methodical and not over rub one section.!!!!

6 clean off dirty polish with paper towel and start again with a clean piece of microfibre. cloth. So any grit isn't there when you apply polish to the cloth.

7 Repeat until happy..final clean with paper towel then final buff with new micro fibre cloth.

Anal but one little piece of grit dirt can ruin a nice finish. Swapping cloths polishing and wiping off stops that.

It's why a polishing head on a dremel can ruin a finish in seconds.

Always test a area you can't see and do a little practice first

 

 

 

I hope this helps my friend...

Dave

[Middy]

If you can @Cornan 

Remove the legs and platter or any parts before polishing them. Less mess and a more even finish..

 

 

[Cornan]

8 hours ago, Middy said:

 

For all there are 2 ways of polishing metals. Removing the top layer with cutting of the top layer from a blade to sand paper to micro grits in paste. Or use chemicals to remove or reverse oxides / electrolysis. 

 

A dremel is great for some things but metals plastics can be tricky. If you can mop (cloth polishing wheel) or spin the parts in a lathe you have a chance of polishing even and fixing mistakes. A dremel head is hard to evenly polish large areas but has a danger of picking up grit and can scratch the surface badly in a second. Uneven polishing leaves swirling marks.

A gentle chemical polish as linked above has a micro abrasive sometimes but extra time hand polishing gives good results. 

With parts that  have lathe turning lines .....polish in the same direction. 

1 Cut up a few microfibre cloths for clean application of polish

2 paper towel to remove after polishing

3 a finishing microfibre cloth

4 use alcohol or soapy water to remove dust and grease before starting polishing

5 apply a little polish to a clean cloth and rub all parts evenly. Be methodical and not over rub one section.!!!!

6 clean off dirty polish with paper towel and start again with a clean piece of microfibre. cloth. So any grit isn't there when you apply polish to the cloth.

7 Repeat until happy..final clean with paper towel then final buff with new micro fibre cloth.

Anal but one little piece of grit dirt can ruin a nice finish. Swapping cloths polishing and wiping off stops that.

It's why a polishing head on a dremel can ruin a finish in seconds.

Always test a area you can't see and do a little practice first

 

 

 

I hope this helps my friend...

Dave

 

Thanks a lot Dave! Extremely helpful as usual! ???

[Cornan]

18 minutes ago, Middy said:

If you can @Cornan 

Remove the legs and platter or any parts before polishing them. Less mess and a more even finish..

 

 

 

Yes, that is my plan as well. Luckily the Ariston is quite easy to take apart! ?

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, Middy said:

If you can @Cornan 

Remove the legs and platter or any parts before polishing them. Less mess and a more even finish..

 

 

 

Here is a picture from another user at Vinylengine.com taking his Ariston RD40 apart.

 

 

Here is the end result.

 

 

I just wish he had shared how he polished it up. Really nice result though.

Anyway, with your help I hope to get a similar result! ?