mumsoft Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 And I wanted to have an MQA dac. Since you already bought the Schiit, why would you still like to compare it with a Brooklyyn? Marc Link to comment
mordante Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 And I wanted to have an MQA dac. Since you already bought the Schiit, why would you still like to compare it with a Brooklyyn? Marc Out of curiosity. Should I have tried harder to get a Brooklyn to try out? etc. [br] Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Out of curiosity. Should I have tried harder to get a Brooklyn to try out? etc. I don't know the Schitt, so I can't tell. But then you should try to invite someone with a(n) (unmodified) Brooklyn at your place, because that's the way to tell differences. Or else, visit someone with your Schiit. I know several Dutch people with a Brooklyn, most of them at the Dutch high-end forum, but also Mr Kamstra here. Marc Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Hi, I'm new with Brooklyn, so I have few question about working this dac: - I observed that it runs a little bit warm to hot, the same behavior you observed? - when switching from digital inputs to analog or when I shut it down I can hear some pops, not that powerful to stress my self, but shouldn't be there. You have the same? - what about analog input, the signal it is digitized and then converted back to analog? - big question about power supply, I want to try Teddy Pardo rated at 12V and 4,5A, do you think it is enough if I run without headphone amplifier? - I'm using it with power amplifier as a dac and preamplifier and I use analog volume, when I increase or decrease the volume from small to high I can hear some fine clicks, pops. It is normal? I'm using last firmware, dac it running 2 monoblock from Jeff Rowland 201. Regards Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
Middy Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Mine is on an open table..When running from the internal supply no more than warm on the left side...Sbooster 13v no real heat from the LPS .... slightly warm on the right side. No issue what so ever..... I only hear noises on my headphones when switching on..... Sorry I can't help much more Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Firmware here is still 2.20. I use the Brooklyn as DAC and pre-amp, just as you. I can hear no clicks when increasing or decreasing the volume. I use the analog volume control (too lazy to differentiate between analog or digital, so just a matter of taste). BTW if I use the knob on the front for that, you can hear it spinning (!) I know someone with another DAC, which gives considerable clicks with volume changing. Awkward. It's a black one, and after being on for a day it gets nicely warm, not to hot to touch it though. I really don't mind. But give it enough space to dissipate the heath, err, warmth. Switching between inputs can give some clicks, that's how it is constructed. It would be nice if Mytek could tell something about the way analog signals go through the Brooklyn. I still find that quite vague. Not that it matters much to me. Just curious, like you. Marc Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 The most unpleasant noise appears when I changed from digital to analogue source, if I use amplifier with preamplifier then would be almost fine, but I use two monoblocks and all the time I have maximum volume. Laurentiu Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
mordante Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Firmware here is still 2.20. I use the Brooklyn as DAC and pre-amp, just as you. I can hear no clicks when increasing or decreasing the volume. I use the analog volume control (too lazy to differentiate between analog or digital, so just a matter of taste). BTW if I use the knob on the front for that, you can hear it spinning (!)I know someone with another DAC, which gives considerable clicks with volume changing. Awkward. It's a black one, and after being on for a day it gets nicely warm, not to hot to touch it though. I really don't mind. But give it enough space to dissipate the heath, err, warmth. Switching between inputs can give some clicks, that's how it is constructed. It would be nice if Mytek could tell something about the way analog signals go through the Brooklyn. I still find that quite vague. Not that it matters much to me. Just curious, like you. Marc I see you most likely live close by. Maybe you'd like to compare the Brooklyn with the Gungnir Multibit. [br] Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 I see you most likely live close by. Maybe you'd like to compare the Brooklyn with the Gungnir Multibit. My Brooklyn is not original, Mordante. You can't draw conclusions from such a comparison. Marc Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I had opportunity to test in my chain an preamplifier from Jeff Rowland, model Capri S2, I was curious about those clicks which appear when I change source in Brooklyn and also I wanted to know if I really need true preamplifier or Brooklyn it is good as it is. The clicks you cannot hear now, because with preamplifier you never use maximum volume in general. About Brooklyn as preamplifier, in my opinion sound it is more transparent then through additional preamplifier, and JR Capri 2 it costs twice than Brooklyn. Still, the sound on Capri had more body, but I believe that power supply on Brooklyn will correct this and still cost less than additional preamplifier, power cord and signal cables. Just to give you idea about system used for testing: mytek brooklyn / Jeff Rowland 201 / Triangle Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Delta Signature and Spendor SA3. Cables were: for power furutech alpha f3 / for speakers: dh labs q10 and kimble 8tc / interconnect: balanced accuphase aslc15 and audioquest cheetah Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
nc1688 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Originally, I also fear that I bought Rowland Jeff 525 amplifier need to purchase the former class! Seeing your share of my worries is just a little more! Thank you so much for your sharing! Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 The clicks you cannot hear now, because with preamplifier you never use maximum volume in general. Just tested this. Normally, I use the preamp part of my beloved LFD integrated amplifier + the preamp part of the Brooklyn together. The LFD at half maximum output, so that I have enough larm, and using the Brooklyn to regulate the output (with the remote control). But for the test I disabled the LFD preamp. Now I can hear some verry tiny clicks, from about -50 dB till 0 (loudest), but only with my ears at the speaker. With the LFD as preamp together, the clicks start to emerge just before 0 dB. The clicks in switching between inputs are there, surely. They are not harmfull, but in your mind. So... don't mind! Marc Link to comment
Octavius Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Stereophile's review is now online: http://www.stereophile.com/content/mytek-hifi-brooklyn-da-processor–headphone-amplifier#8B6rRXczsF57heFy.97 I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member.- Groucho Marx Link to comment
levlion Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Stereophile's review is now online: http://www.stereophile.com/content/mytek-hifi-brooklyn-da-processor–headphone-amplifier#8B6rRXczsF57heFy.97 Dead link. Sent from my Lenovo B8080-H using Computer Audiophile mobile app Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Try this one: http://www.stereophile.com/content/mytek-hifi-brooklyn-da-processor%C2%96headphone-amplifier#DKdMQvM4fM2doWfT.97 Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
Octavius Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Try this one: Mytek HiFi Brooklyn D/A processor–headphone amplifier | Stereophile.com Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Thanks! I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member.- Groucho Marx Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 It's also here: http://mytekdigital.com/download_library/reviews/Stereophile_Mytek_Brooklyn_Review_November2016.pdf Marc Link to comment
gmplus Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 It's also here: http://mytekdigital.com/download_library/reviews/Stereophile_Mytek_Brooklyn_Review_November2016.pdf Marc "...The best 12V power supply, he told me, is a car battery" really ? Link to comment
ideasbox Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Common, similar recommendation from Harbeth to use very common and cheap speaker cable. Even car battery it is good from a point of view, it is not designed to deliver very fast power. Brooklyn with good power supply it is a killer, performances comes closer to Manhattan. Same situation with Harbeth HL5 Plus, with good cables you get soundstage, coherence, fine details and it will cost you 4500+1000 €, you can fill up rooms up to 30 m2 or maybe more. The next speakers cost 12k€ ... so people's buy cheaper model and try to improve it with less cost. LM Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile Link to comment
gmplus Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Even car battery it is good from a point of view, it is not designed to deliver very fast power. That is point, maybe battery from truck, Link to comment
bigshutterbug Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 I would not suggest a car battery, or most other types of batteries. I have tried them in the past, and they tend to sound "dark" and overly warm, with a closed-in soundstage. If you like the idea of a power supply that will get your gear separated from dirty AC power, Vinnie Rossi is supposed to be coming out with an ultracap power supply that will work with the Brooklyn. I have ordered a smaller ultracap power supply from Uptone Audio to try on my Microrendu, which is streaming to my Brooklyn DAC. If I like what it does better than my current DC power supply, I will be getting the bigger one from Vinnie when it comes out. Link to comment
Middy Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Sounds lovely to try both Uptone and Vinnie's for the 12V in but I expect it way over my price range.... I'd try the car battery but the wife won't park the car up stairs.... Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app Link to comment
mumsoft Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Just discovered that the Brooklyn does not play mono tracks. I have here a life radio recording of Norma with Maria Callas, dating from 1955 (I was 2 at the time). It is of course mono. So all the tracks are just plain mono, 16 bit 44.1 Khz. The Brooklyn keeps silent (in awe?) when I feed these to it. My Olive 4 itself can play the music via its own internal dac though. With Audacity I changed one of the tracks from mono to 'left channel', imported it on the Olive, and now the Brooklyn is content with it, and outputs it in the left channel, as might be expected. So a solution is to duplicate the mono tracks tot left and right channel streams, and import the whole business again, and edit them again. But my hope is, that Mytek can do something (simple), so that also those very old, grey haired mono tracks can be played by the Brooklyn. Marc Link to comment
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