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The trouble with trying to educate yourself is that for this to be effective, you need to listen and learn, which you aren't doing at all.

 

Case in point:

 

Chill, we'll get there (or if we don't it's not a tragedy).

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Do you mean the DAC shown as active is different than the preferred, or both active and preferred are different than the DAC that is actually playing?

 

The DAC shown can be different from the DAC active - might be a bug in A+ 1.5

 

For instance, I play A+ to the Nano, then stop the Nano, check this window and it will show 'Airplay'.

 

If I start playback again, the Nano plays.

 

It doesn't seem to occur all the time, so I am not sure how reproducible this is.

Dedicated Line DSD/DXD | Audirvana+ | iFi iDSD Nano | SET Tube Amp | Totem Mites

Surround: VLC | M-Audio FastTrack Pro | Mac Opt | Panasonic SA-HE100 | Logitech Z623

DIY: SET Tube Amp | Low-Noise Linear Regulated Power Supply | USB, Power, Speaker Cables | Speaker Stands | Acoustic Panels

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That screen shot with the different DAC than if nano was copied from this forum on how to set that page up.Sorry

 

Anything else that's different from how yours actually looks?

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Chill, we'll get there (or if we don't it's not a tragedy).

 

Not for me, it won't be. But take into account that our friend here mentioned himself that budget was limited.

 

Therefore, he is wasting his time, his money (and partly our time too), buying stuff he doesn't need, while constantly distorting what he has been told and not learning a thing, and also distorting his playback chain.

 

Has he tried a direct connection from the DAC to the amp yet?

Dedicated Line DSD/DXD | Audirvana+ | iFi iDSD Nano | SET Tube Amp | Totem Mites

Surround: VLC | M-Audio FastTrack Pro | Mac Opt | Panasonic SA-HE100 | Logitech Z623

DIY: SET Tube Amp | Low-Noise Linear Regulated Power Supply | USB, Power, Speaker Cables | Speaker Stands | Acoustic Panels

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That screen shot with the different DAC than ifi nano was copied from this forum on how to set that page up.Sorry

 

Are you wasting everybody's time on purpose here?

Dedicated Line DSD/DXD | Audirvana+ | iFi iDSD Nano | SET Tube Amp | Totem Mites

Surround: VLC | M-Audio FastTrack Pro | Mac Opt | Panasonic SA-HE100 | Logitech Z623

DIY: SET Tube Amp | Low-Noise Linear Regulated Power Supply | USB, Power, Speaker Cables | Speaker Stands | Acoustic Panels

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The DAC shown can be different from the DAC active - might be a bug in A+ 1.5

 

For instance, I play A+ to the Nano, then stop the Nano, check this window and it will show 'Airplay'.

 

If I start playback again, the Nano plays.

 

It doesn't seem to occur all the time, so I am not sure how reproducible this is.

 

But Airplay is a possible output for you, while a Schiit DAC should not have been for Jamesroy, which was my point. But mystery solved.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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The only thing I haven't tested yet from all your suggestions is going straight into power amp. I'll try it tomorrow. I have two Special Needs Grand Kids I help with which I'm getting ready to go to in the next hour.

 

By all means, help the kids first. Then don't do anything else, don't start new threads until you've fixed the gain stage.

Dedicated Line DSD/DXD | Audirvana+ | iFi iDSD Nano | SET Tube Amp | Totem Mites

Surround: VLC | M-Audio FastTrack Pro | Mac Opt | Panasonic SA-HE100 | Logitech Z623

DIY: SET Tube Amp | Low-Noise Linear Regulated Power Supply | USB, Power, Speaker Cables | Speaker Stands | Acoustic Panels

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But Airplay is a possible output for you, while a Schiit DAC should not have been for Jamesroy, which was my point. But mystery solved.

 

Could get confusing, isn't it?

 

I think someone is stringing people along.

Dedicated Line DSD/DXD | Audirvana+ | iFi iDSD Nano | SET Tube Amp | Totem Mites

Surround: VLC | M-Audio FastTrack Pro | Mac Opt | Panasonic SA-HE100 | Logitech Z623

DIY: SET Tube Amp | Low-Noise Linear Regulated Power Supply | USB, Power, Speaker Cables | Speaker Stands | Acoustic Panels

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That's the thing with computer audio, it can be very frustrating because it's not plug in and play. Perhaps because I'm Australian the way we describe things are different. The Belkin thing is a power board. A power point is an outlet. It's just important to have the computer stuff and the amplification on seperate power outlets. Try listening to it with the wi-fi set to off. Put a piece of ply wood or even off cuts of rubber under your sac. And plug the power cords ( using an power extension cable if needed) from the amps, and the computer stuff into seperate outlets. Don't get discouraged, it will just click, and you will get good sound.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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Not for me, it won't be. But take into account that our friend here mentioned himself that budget was limited.

 

Therefore, he is wasting his time, his money (and partly our time too), buying stuff he doesn't need, while constantly distorting what he has been told and not learning a thing, and also distorting his playback chain.

 

Has he tried a direct connection from the DAC to the amp yet?

 

Like I said, we're getting there. He tried a cheap and easy thing (getting the external drive off the USB bus). Next he'll try at least one cheap and somewhat more difficult thing, changing around the physical layout of his system so he can hook the Nano directly to his amp.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Could get confusing, isn't it?

 

I think someone is stringing people along.

 

If you feel that way, my own feeling is that it's better to stay away from the thread than to be critical to a newbie. Just my opinion, of course.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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He shouldn't get discouraged. Often listening to so much advice can be daunting. Everyone has been down this kind of road and we all ended up in different destinations. It seems that keeping the system simple at first would be best. But having the cable's USB, or whatever laid out not touching or crossing over each and certainly not looped around is a good start.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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He shouldn't get discouraged. Often listening to so much advice can be daunting. Everyone has been down this kind of road and we all ended up in different destinations. It seems that keeping the system simple at first would be best. But having the cable's USB, or whatever laid out not touching or crossing over each and certainly not looped around is a good start.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

 

Be careful re the advice. Crossing over at a near 90 degree angle is actually better than close together parallel and not touching. But one thing at a time.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Not that much younger. Take it at your own pace.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Yep I agree crossing at 90 degrees better. Just avoid looping wires that are to long. Try and avoid draping them over the metal posts of stands to. Just something like rubber or cork. Actually cork is a good material to use under dac's and the feet of your computer too. It absorbs vibration.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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Yep I agree crossing at 90 degrees better. Just avoid looping wires that are to long. Try and avoid draping them over the metal posts of stands to. Just something like rubber or cork. Actually cork is a good material to use under dac's and the feet of your computer too. It absorbs vibration.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

 

I don't know. Some times cork doesn't transmit vibrations, some others yes, it depends on Cork Poisson’s ratio. This vary depending on the cork tree origin, and of course your music room humidity and temperature. The way we use to measure cork properties:

 

Cork properties.jpg

 

 

After long, long research, DBT, TBT, DDT, et all, we found all the cork are not the same and Roch Corsican Cork® (RCC®) is the best for DACs. And of course much better than crazy and cheapie bamboo. You can find this beauty at:

 

http://CorkAreUs.com

 

Roch

 

PS/ Please don't try used wine bottle cork, you will get 'wine color' in the SQ !

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My brain is starting to hurt, i'm 67 so you guys are dealing with a geezer but I like new technology

 

Jim,

 

Ignore everyone in this thread except for Jud. He knows more then the rest of this threads posters combined, and understands how to talk to a neophyte at their level of knowledge, without confusing them or needless criticism.

 

Take it slow and easy, one thing at a time. Provide plenty of info from your side to help Jud have a fighting chance of helping you.

 

In fact, I would strongly suggest that you click on "Settings" at the upper right of each and every Computer Audiphile Forum page, then click "Edit Profile", "and enter all your system components* into your profile information. Then Save. It's easy, and that way everyone can review it if and when they want, to understand where you are coming from without a lot of fuss :)

 

BTW, I am the same age as you ! Welcome. Lots of us old farts on CA :)

 

* A lot of members also put a condensed version in their signatures (that appear under all their posts), which you can also do in the (Profile) Settings area, if you so desire.

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I have my nano up to 75% and my pre amp at -22dB and that seems to be the sweet spot. Many have told me to go to 100% on my DAC but at that I seem to get a bit of distortion at around -28 on my pre amp.

 

If this is the problem you are trying to solve, surely the first port of call for advice are the manufacturers of your DAC and preamp. What are their recommended settings in this scenario? Doesn't the ifi have a switchable fixed output option or at least a manufacturer recommended volume setting for such a scenario? If you follow manufacturer recommendations and are genuinely getting still getting distortion ( as opposed to sound you just don't like) then you should follow up with manufacturer as possible faulty item(s).

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