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Jamesroy are you still using the B & K preamp with the DAC?

 

Exactly. He's using *two* analog attenuators in tandem.

 

So Jamesroy, here's how this stuff works:

 

The electrical name for a volume control is an attenuator. Its function is to take the full power going through it and reduce (attenuate) it. People think they're turning up the volume from zero, but they are actually turning it down from full.

 

Though it seems simple, this is actually one of the more physically and/or electrically complex components in your equipment. Sonically this means the best attenuator is no attenuator. So the best thing could well be to get the pre-amp out of the way entirely. The second best is to get one attenuator out of the circuit by turning it all the way *up*. So if the experiment of removing the pre-amp doesn't work, the next thing to try is to set one volume control to 100% and adjust loudness with the other one. If there's a problem with the DAC volume at 100%, try the pre-amp at 100% and adjust loudness with the DAC.

 

These are the two biggest bang for the buck things you can try right now. Time for other stuff later.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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This is my setup:

Where is the tag for me to attach this to each post?

WD usb 2 2 TB external HD

MacBook Pro 2013 8GB RAM 256 internal Flash drive usb3

ifi DAC nano

Reference B&K 200.2 S2 Power amp 225W RMS

Reference B&K 5 S2 Preamp

Paradigm 100 S series speakers

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"it is recommend to use the volume control at around 12-2 o'clock for best sound. "

 

Why do you want to go beyond 75% anyway?

 

One attenuator of the two should be removed (that would be the pre-amp) or turned all the way up to get it out of the circuit. Therefore, the 12-2 o'clock recommendation from the manufacturer doesn't necessarily apply. That's for best linearity within the attenuator's range, not to get it out of the circuit entirely because it is being used with another attenuator in the system.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Turn your b & K pre amp to about 75% turn the volume control way down on your DAC and put some music on . Then slowly turn the volume up on your dac till it is a the volume you want. Have a listen and just let it run. In theory it's like your using your b & k preamp as a bypass . You won't be overloading it. Forget about detailing what your attaching to this or that for the moment. Just have a listen.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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You can sneak the volume up on the B & K a little bit by bit to, bit like a balancing act .

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

 

Hi Deano - What's the reason to try 75% rather than 100% on the B&K?

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Hi Jud, because he would be adding gain at 100 %, unity gain would be somewhere b/n 75 to 85% but I can't find any specs on it. Presumably like most preamps gain starts to happen around there. I would love to know if one of the inputs could be set to home theatre bypass ? That woul d guarantee unity gain. Perhaps one of you USA guys might know.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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Hey wait a minute, I though my next move was to bypass the preamp. I haven't gotten to it because I injured my hand a little and to get the rca's to reach the wifi nano I need to lift my heavy power amp up to the next shelf, no biggie just got to get my finger healed a bit. I'm an amateur guitar player and injuring your chord hand is a big deal. I cut right into the top part of my calluses on one finger and it will take a year to get to back to where it was. Not to mention it will hurt like hell getting there. So there I talked about something I'll bet you guys knew nothing about;) But I plan on moving it and testing it out in a day or so. I'll do a test with and without the firewire to thunderbolt connection. As it stands now usb2 sounds much better than fw to tb DAC at around 85% and preamp at -24dB.

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Yes it would be has a bypass, and universal voltage but it's $1250 Aus, plus postage/ freight. Given our dollar is so crappy around 72 cents per your $1. But I'm not trying to sell you anything mate. Just get the issue at hand sorted, now when you say minus 24db on your preamp is that really low on the dial, or is it on the high side.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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So it's on a really low volume through the B & K Then . I'm suggesting turn your DAC down, turn your b & k up to 80 % . Start some music and slowly turn the volume up on your dac. Sorry I'm a Windows man. But I'm guessing if you don't use it , it probably isn't on.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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James's I use my dac set to 100%. And then alter the volume via the preamp , which in my opinion and every writer in stereophile, the absolute sound, hi-fi plus use's theirs. Don't worry I've read good thing's about your preamp. Give it go , just make sure you turn the volume down on the b & k first. It's just a theory that people think with less cable's and less components it's supposed to be more direct, so should sound better.

 

Sent from my SM-T113 using Tapatalk

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One attenuator of the two should be removed (that would be the pre-amp) or turned all the way up to get it out of the circuit. Therefore, the 12-2 o'clock recommendation from the manufacturer doesn't necessarily apply. That's for best linearity within the attenuator's range, not to get it out of the circuit entirely because it is being used with another attenuator in the system.

 

If that is correct, it seems strange that, when publishing basic advice on the use of the vol pot, ifi would presume its users will not be using an integrated or pre amp.

 

It's still not clear to me why the OP needs to go beyond 75% on the Nano. Just stick to ifi's advice and if not sure if it applies... ask them...

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