Building a DIY Music Server

[di-fi]

On 8/31/2023 at 10:17 AM, seeteeyou said:

Personally I wouldn't even bother with any streaming services at all and therefore the whole point of having a router would be moot,

In reality, a significant number of Taiko Extreme owners have shown a preference for using Roon as their primary listening platform. This has led Emile to dedicate continuous efforts to ensure his server remains impervious to Roon updates and changes, striving to bring streaming sound quality on par with that of local files.

 

But what about the majority of DIY server owners here? Do they share the same concern regarding Roon and streaming?

 

At the same time, it's important to recognize that one can have a preference for local files. However, this preference often depends on how we define 'local files,' whether in comparison to streaming options or independently.

 

 

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For example what I do nowadays is purchase files from Qobuz, but I always select the 16/44.1 uncompressed .wav version in the downloads section. Most of the time these sound better then the 24/96 etc versions

 

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Further to this I have to rip it to uncompressed .wav to the Extreme's local storage if the goal is to achieve a similar sound signature.Note this is not a declaration of superiority for the uncompressed .wav format as there are many factors in play here. Compressed flac files are smaller in absolute size which turns it into a file transfer versus decompression game with differing noise signatures depending on the construction / configuration of the server's hard- and soft-ware. With that said, uncompressed .wav from local storage sounds closest to a CD transport.

 

 

[littlej0e]

Can anyone confirm the voltage requirements of the Taiko USB and network cards? Seems like both run on 5 volts using 4-pin Molex-to-DC connectors, but wanted to make sure. I'm shopping for external power supplies and want to ensure I get it right. 

[Exocer]

27 minutes ago, littlej0e said:

Can anyone confirm the voltage requirements of the Taiko USB and network cards? Seems like both run on 5 volts using 4-pin Molex-to-DC connectors, but wanted to make sure. I'm shopping for external power supplies and want to ensure I get it right. 

I remember @Nenon mentioning it may require 5v and 12v simultaneously.

[Nenon]

1 hour ago, littlej0e said:

Can anyone confirm the voltage requirements of the Taiko USB and network cards? Seems like both run on 5 volts using 4-pin Molex-to-DC connectors, but wanted to make sure. I'm shopping for external power supplies and want to ensure I get it right. 

 

32 minutes ago, Exocer said:

I remember @Nenon mentioning it may require 5v and 12v simultaneously.

 

Yes, it's 5V and 12V. 

[Dev]

Has anybody tried the Taiko network card in a DIY server and can compare with the usual suspects, like jcat ? I am eager to try a fiber out directly from the server and looking for options.

[seeteeyou]

So far we've got only a few options out there, here's one from SOtM

 

https://www.sotm-audio.com/sotmwp/english/portfolio-item/sni-1g/

https://audiobacon.net/2021/04/21/sotm-sni-1g-elevate-your-network-audio-system/

 

Yet another one from Hong Kong

 

https://www.vvaudiolab.com/products/97.html

https://www.carousell.com.hk/p/發燒友好評如潮-music-server-升級神器ocxo網卡-1194005806/

 

Maybe a couple of them from China as well

 

https://world.taobao.com/item/697110731909.htm

https://world.taobao.com/item/720695426742.htm

https://www.headphoneclub.com/thread-758395-1-1.html

http://www.erji.net/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2302188

 

Of course I'll be thrown under bus after saying this, stuff like QSA LAN Jitters plus their own cable might outperform everything else with a "plain vanilla" NIC on each end but YMMV.

 

Actually it's just too tricky to compare apples to oranges as well. Almost everything could be powered with only a single rail while Extreme Network Card would require two of them. In other words, is it still a fair comparison if two different PSUs / DC power cables etc. were used?

 

In addition, DAC cables might work best (of course other options are also available) between Extreme Network Card and Extreme Network Switch since they're designed to work together as a combo in the first place, while other options should be meant for the "regular" Ethernet cables with RJ-45 on both ends.

[BOBO]

i`ve noticed that alot of power supplies have that blue potentiometer for voltage adjustments. 

how does that work, if the PSU`s current voltage is set to 12v, can i adjust it and set it to 5?

[basillus]

4 hours ago, BOBO said:

i`ve noticed that alot of power supplies have that blue potentiometer for voltage adjustments. 

how does that work, if the PSU`s current voltage is set to 12v, can i adjust it and set it to 5?

Yes, this psu can be adjusted from 5 to 24v, but it depends on the voltage output of the transformer. I think to get 5v a 9v transformer are preferred,

but maybe a 12v can be used to…

[BOBO]

ok, thank you for the info.

i have another question though. if the psu outputs 5v 3amp, does it do 3amp constantly or can i use it on a device that requires 5v 1amp ?

 

[RGBK]

2 hours ago, BOBO said:

ok, thank you for the info.

i have another question though. if the psu outputs 5v 3amp, does it do 3amp constantly or can i use it on a device that requires 5v 1amp ?

1 No, it does not.

2 Yes, you can.

"The draw" from the connected component should not exceed what the psu can "give".

[BOBO]

understood, thank you very much for the info.

[MarcelNL]

23 hours ago, basillus said:

Yes, this psu can be adjusted from 5 to 24v, but it depends on the voltage output of the transformer. I think to get 5v a 9v transformer are preferred,

but maybe a 12v can be used to…

check with the manufacturer please, in general you need some voltage drop for the regulation but having excessive voltage drop can make the thing more noisy which IMO is contrary to the point behind using a dedicated PSU.

 

 

[Superdad]

6 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

check with the manufacturer please, in general you need some voltage drop for the regulation but having excessive voltage drop can make the thing more noisy which IMO is contrary to the point behind using a dedicated PSU.

Hard to say how much extra noise would result but a large voltage drop will surely generate a ton of excess heat wattage to dissipate! Remember, Volts (of drop) times Amps (of current load) equals Wattage (of heat to dissipate).

[Nenon]

@BOBO - these things are so cheap, why don't you just order another one with the right voltage and avoid any risks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125943342243?chn=ps&var=426895517614

(there are many sellers and some sell them even cheaper)

 

Note: I don't recommend this product. 

[MarcelNL]

14 hours ago, Nenon said:

@BOBO - these things are so cheap, why don't you just order another one with the right voltage and avoid any risks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125943342243?chn=ps&var=426895517614

(there are many sellers and some sell them even cheaper)

 

Note: I don't recommend this product. 

I vote against the product, I bought a dual output dual transformer version based on this circuit to test the effect on SQ on my general use (not audio) Wifi AP's, the first transformer had a catastrophic meltdown within a month, used well within spec and the second one weeks later.....the only thing the seller could do was to tell me I surely had modified the unit and did not know what I was doing. 

 

junk.

[basillus]

4 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

I vote against the product, I bought a dual output dual transformer version based on this circuit to test the effect on SQ on my general use (not audio) Wifi AP's, the first transformer had a catastrophic meltdown within a month, used well within spec and the second one weeks later.....the only thing the seller could do was to tell me I surely had modified the unit and did not know what I was doing. 

 

junk.

Sounds weird, was it with toroidal transformer or R-core transformer?

I have a few with R-core transformers and there have been no problems with them. It is basically the same psu as Xymox at "whatsbestforum" uses with a few modifications for his AppleTv X and switches/AP. 

[MarcelNL]

1 hour ago, basillus said:

Sounds weird, was it with toroidal transformer or R-core transformer?

I have a few with R-core transformers and there have been no problems with them. It is basically the same psu as Xymox at "whatsbestforum" uses with a few modifications for his AppleTv X and switches/AP. 

the R core version, the weird thing was that one R core transformer was labeled 18V, which is a LOT for a 12V output PSU to didssipate in heat, the other side was a 15 V Rcore that also released its magic smoke....the first one we inhaled, for the second I recognized the smell.

[basillus]

2 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

the R core version, the weird thing was that one R core transformer was labeled 18V, which is a LOT for a 12V output PSU to didssipate in heat, the other side was a 15 V Rcore that also released its magic smoke....the first one we inhaled, for the second I recognized the smell.

Ok, sounds dangerous/worrying. You didn’t use both of the outputs?
Ask, because they are parallel connected, so if the psu max. is 3A, it will be max. 1.5A per. output.

[MarcelNL]

I did use both outputs, my version was a dual output...one R Core rectifier caps and regulator per output.

[MarcelNL]

to be transparent, it was not the same seller as the listing earleir shown...so YMMV

[basillus]

20 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

I did use both outputs, my version was a dual output...one R Core rectifier caps and regulator per output.

If Yours psu is the same as at “BOBO’s” picture, then it just have one regulator to both outputs and the outputs are therefore, as I wrote parallel connected.

[MarcelNL]

it;s not the exact same yet it looks quite similar, anyway....beware of stuff that comes without proper certification/testing.

 

It might have been the R-Core it may have been the circuit....final result is the same, it almost caused a fire....the casing was too hot to handle and we partly inhaled the transformer 

[drjimwillie]

Greetings, music, loving friends😎

 

I am going to start my Sage MB build in the Taiko case soon. I am going to be using the Taiko Rectifier, the big CAP and the Martin Mug chokes.

I have a feeling that I am going to need to drill some custom holes for the standoffs. I want to buy a tap and die set for the stand off screws, but I am having trouble identifying, the correct tap and die. I see that the thread for the standoff is #6-32, but the tap and die sets are not specified this way. Can anyone help me find the right tools for this work, please?

also, what size drillbit do I use to drill the hole, please?

is the bottom of the DIY Taiko case thick enough for tapped screws?  I am betting that the side walls are. 
 

has anyone else built a server with these components yet? I am hoping to see examples from others.

I still have a bit of time before I get started, but I will post pictures as I try to make decisions.

 

thank you 

 

I hope you all are enjoying some good music🎶

 

DJW

[Gavin1977]

1 hour ago, drjimwillie said:

Greetings, music, loving friends😎

 

I am going to start my Sage MB build in the Taiko case soon. I am going to be using the Taiko Rectifier, the big CAP and the Martin Mug chokes.

I have a feeling that I am going to need to drill some custom holes for the standoffs. I want to buy a tap and die set for the stand off screws, but I am having trouble identifying, the correct tap and die. I see that the thread for the standoff is #6-32, but the tap and die sets are not specified this way. Can anyone help me find the right tools for this work, please?

also, what size drillbit do I use to drill the hole, please?

is the bottom of the DIY Taiko case thick enough for tapped screws?  I am betting that the side walls are. 
 

has anyone else built a server with these components yet? I am hoping to see examples from others.

I still have a bit of time before I get started, but I will post pictures as I try to make decisions.

 

thank you 

 

I hope you all are enjoying some good music🎶

 

DJW

I recommend practicing and a scrap piece of aluminium, buy some tapping compound and drill and tap for all of the 'drill and taps' you have (they usually come in a box set).  This way you can practice and also have something you can test screws in to confirm which one you need.

 

Generally the drill bit is 0.5mm smaller than the hole to be tapped ( if I remember correctly).

 

Trial and error and practice is best.

[MarcelNL]

a decent tap and die set will have markings indicating for what size and thread they are and usually some info on what drill to use.

 

My experience is that a drill press and GOOD drill and drill bit are paramount to get a straight hole in the place you want it, use a center point tool to position the holes and cutting oil for drilling AND tapping.  Do not get cocky and twist too far in one movement, always twist back to allow cuttings to remove or find yourself facing a broken tap in the hole....

 

Likely YT has video's on how to do this, it's not difficult but can be tricky so doing some practice runs as mentioned is a great idea.