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Building with the HDPlex 300W ATX Linear PSU


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My HD Plex 300w linear psu arrived this week, and today I took the opportunity to install it, while moving the pc to a new case at the same time.

 

The PC:

 

i5 3570k

Coolermaster hyper 212 cpu cooler with Fractal P12 pwm fan (the quietest pwm fan I know)

Corsair Vengeance 2 x 4gb 1600mhz RAM

Intel 120gb SSD (OS and software)

2TB WD Green HD (music storage)

Seasonic fanless 400w psu (until now)

Fractal Node 304 case, being moved to a Coolermaster Elite 130 case

Playback with JRMC, via USB to a Yellowtec PUC SPDIF/USB interface, powered by a Teddy Pardo USB psu, and then into my Hegel HD25 dac.

 

The PC was put together a few years ago and started out life as a gaming PC. It didn't quite work out for that purpose - it's hard to control heat and noise in ITX builds - so this was used to put together a dedicated music server. It has always sounded pretty good to me, and I didn't really think about alternatives.

 

However, recently in an attempt to save space, I switched to a NUC instead of my PC. It was a Gigabyte Brix GB-BXBT-2807 with Celeron N2807 processor - this one: GIGABYTE GB-BXBT-2807 (rev. 1.0) 1 x 204Pin SO-DIMM Intel HD Graphics Integrated by CPU Black Mini-PC Barebone - Newegg.com. It was fanless and seemed to work fine, streaming audio from my home server in the garage over ethernet. But after a while I noticed it was sounding a bit dull. After comparing back and forwards between the PC and the NUC, I noticed that the NUC did indeed sound dull by comparison. The PC sounded brighter, more dynamic and more colourful. I couldn't account for the difference, but switched the PC back into service.

 

More recently, I bought an Auralic Aries streamer, with linear PSU, again thinking it would free up some space. Again, I found it disappointing, and again, not as dynamic or colourful as my PC. At this point, I started to think that there was some merit in using a higher powered processor for music playback, even if it is only minimally utilised. (This is speculation - of course, there could be any number of other reasons why my PC sounds better than the Auralic streamer and the NUC.)

 

When the ATX psu became available from HD Plex, I realised that this was an ideal addition to my music pc.

 

When I received it this week, it was much heavier and bigger than I was expecting. Opening the box and inspecting it, I was impressed by the build quality, as well as how well it was packed.

 

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So I started dismantling the pc in its current case ...

 

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...and installing it into the new case ...

 

IMG_1380.jpg

 

The Elite 130 case had an unexpected 80mm side fan. Well that noisy little bugger had to go!

 

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As did the stock cooler master fan.

IMG_1386.jpg

 

 

To be replaced by a nice quiet Noctua fan with ultra low noise adapter.

 

IMG_1397.jpg

 

Finally the new PC is up and running - sitting on the shelf above my desk in the study/listening room.

 

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A wider view of my messy desk...

 

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And a view from the listening position:

 

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I really need to do some cable tidying!

 

So how does it sound? I was initially put off by a high pitched squealing sound, which I thought was the fans in my PC but turned out to be the power supply. However, this soon disappeared and the PSU now appears to be completely silent.

 

To be honest, I wasn't really expecting the linear PSU to make any difference. I already isolate my dac from the PC's power supply by using the Teddy Pardo USB psu. I was also sceptical that a linear PSU would make that much difference to a computer as a source. However, I was suprised - the difference is actually very noticeable.

 

The biggest improvements are the obvious lowering of the noise floor. Everything is smoother, backgrounds are quieter. There is more detail apparent.

 

The only reservations I have are that tonal colours appear to be slightly less saturated, and there is a subjective sense that the music has "slowed". But this could be a function of the lower noise floor - what I interpreted as a marginally more colourful presentation may in fact have been additional distortions. This is certainly consistent with the sense that the music now has greater transparency. Also, the PSU is brand new - no doubt it will run in over time and could improve significantly.

 

The other reservation is that the PSU gets very hot - you cannot touch it for more than a few seconds. This is an issue, since my room becomes like a sauna in summer, and an additional heat source I definitely don't need! It also makes me wary of leaving the PSU on all the time. I will probably need to switch it off at night or when not using the PC, which again is not ideal.

 

I will update this thread as the PSU runs in.

IMG_1373.jpg

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An update.

 

First, a few issues with the HDPlex PSU. It runs very, very hot. I asked Larry about this and he said it was safe to leave it running 24/7 and only used 4-5 watts at idle. However, I am not comfortable leaving something running this hot on all the time. Also, my small listening room gets hot enough in summer - I do not need a PSU radiating massive amounts of heat at the same time.

 

Second, the PC experienced a few random shut downs. Not BSOD, but when it rebooted the ASUS bios reported that it had shut down due to an unstable power supply. This was cause for concern.

 

Finally, and importantly, the listening tests. I have done extensive listening tests between my audio pc/HD Plex PSU and another PC I have in my listening room, which is a fairly standard gaming build - i7 4790k, 16gb overclocked ram, GTX 980 Ti graphics card and 760w Corsair PSU. I did these comparisons both using headphones - HD800s and my Headamp GS-X Mk II and over my Harbeth speakers and Naim amps.

 

There were significant and noticeable differences between the two PCs. As I noted above, with the HD Plex PSU tonal colours seemed a little duller, as did dynamics. However, instrumental textures seemed to be fleshed out more, more substantial. I was struggling to avoid the conclusion that the PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded more "analogue", to use that massively over-used term. Then I realised that the reason it sounded more analogue was because I was listening to additional distortions. The PC with the standard PSU sounded a little faster, more colourful, more three dimensional, but also a little glassier, a little more precise, a little more "digital". The latter also sounded quieter, with blacker backgrounds.

 

After a week of careful listening, I decided that my PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded worse than with its original Seasonic 400w fanless switching PSU. This is aside from the heat issues and the random instability causing shut downs. So I have reinstalled the Seasonic PSU and, yes, it is an improvement.

 

So much for the idea that a linear PSU will by itself make a significant improvement. This was a disappointing - and expensive - experiment. But I suppose I have learned something.

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An update.

 

First, a few issues with the HDPlex PSU. It runs very, very hot. I asked Larry about this and he said it was safe to leave it running 24/7 and only used 4-5 watts at idle. However, I am not comfortable leaving something running this hot on all the time. Also, my small listening room gets hot enough in summer - I do not need a PSU radiating massive amounts of heat at the same time.

 

Second, the PC experienced a few random shut downs. Not BSOD, but when it rebooted the ASUS bios reported that it had shut down due to an unstable power supply. This was cause for concern.

 

Finally, and importantly, the listening tests. I have done extensive listening tests between my audio pc/HD Plex PSU and another PC I have in my listening room, which is a fairly standard gaming build - i7 4790k, 16gb overclocked ram, GTX 980 Ti graphics card and 760w Corsair PSU. I did these comparisons both using headphones - HD800s and my Headamp GS-X Mk II and over my Harbeth speakers and Naim amps.

 

There were significant and noticeable differences between the two PCs. As I noted above, with the HD Plex PSU tonal colours seemed a little duller, as did dynamics. However, instrumental textures seemed to be fleshed out more, more substantial. I was struggling to avoid the conclusion that the PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded more "analogue", to use that massively over-used term. Then I realised that the reason it sounded more analogue was because I was listening to additional distortions. The PC with the standard PSU sounded a little faster, more colourful, more three dimensional, but also a little glassier, a little more precise, a little more "digital". The latter also sounded quieter, with blacker backgrounds.

 

After a week of careful listening, I decided that my PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded worse than with its original Seasonic 400w fanless switching PSU. This is aside from the heat issues and the random instability causing shut downs. So I have reinstalled the Seasonic PSU and, yes, it is an improvement.

 

So much for the idea that a linear PSU will by itself make a significant improvement. This was a disappointing - and expensive - experiment. But I suppose I have learned something.

 

I haven't tried the HDPlex in my system, but a friend of mine did. He had the same experience as you. Made everything sound soft.

John Withem

 

Proprietor

JW Audio.

http://www.jwaudio.net/default.html

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rssb I have a HDPlex running 24/7 powering my nas and dac and it never get more than warm to the touch, maybe something wrong with yours?

 

Maybe measure the voltage of the DC outputs. My first one had one of the outputs way off from what it was supposed to be. I had to send it back and get a new unit. I can't remember how hot it ran, but the new unit isn't hot. I was also surprised that the unit came with the switch set to 220v. Fortunately I checked before using, and changed it to 110v.

 

My new JS-2 outperforms it though, which it should given the price difference.

SonicTransporter i9 > EtherRegen (optical out) > LUMIN P1 > LUMIN Amp > YG Kipod Signature Passive speakers.

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I have two hdplex 100w lps connected to two pc setup and no problem of shutdown so far. They both run hot (not warm) but not that hot to touch. I believe lps yields low efficiency by design, just like class A amps. Larry confirmed that its normal for it to get hot. However, I haven't tried a good smps to compare but its interesting to know that you favored the smps over the traditional wisdom of lps.

 

@Ultrarunner, how would you compare the JS-2 to the hdplex ? I am very much interested to know if I upgrade my hdplex to a JS-2, what should I gain in terms of SQ. Could you also tell, what devices are being feed from the JS-2 ?

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An update.

 

First, a few issues with the HDPlex PSU. It runs very, very hot. I asked Larry about this and he said it was safe to leave it running 24/7 and only used 4-5 watts at idle. However, I am not comfortable leaving something running this hot on all the time. Also, my small listening room gets hot enough in summer - I do not need a PSU radiating massive amounts of heat at the same time.

 

Second, the PC experienced a few random shut downs. Not BSOD, but when it rebooted the ASUS bios reported that it had shut down due to an unstable power supply. This was cause for concern.

 

Finally, and importantly, the listening tests. I have done extensive listening tests between my audio pc/HD Plex PSU and another PC I have in my listening room, which is a fairly standard gaming build - i7 4790k, 16gb overclocked ram, GTX 980 Ti graphics card and 760w Corsair PSU. I did these comparisons both using headphones - HD800s and my Headamp GS-X Mk II and over my Harbeth speakers and Naim amps.

 

There were significant and noticeable differences between the two PCs. As I noted above, with the HD Plex PSU tonal colours seemed a little duller, as did dynamics. However, instrumental textures seemed to be fleshed out more, more substantial. I was struggling to avoid the conclusion that the PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded more "analogue", to use that massively over-used term. Then I realised that the reason it sounded more analogue was because I was listening to additional distortions. The PC with the standard PSU sounded a little faster, more colourful, more three dimensional, but also a little glassier, a little more precise, a little more "digital". The latter also sounded quieter, with blacker backgrounds.

 

After a week of careful listening, I decided that my PC with the HD Plex PSU sounded worse than with its original Seasonic 400w fanless switching PSU. This is aside from the heat issues and the random instability causing shut downs. So I have reinstalled the Seasonic PSU and, yes, it is an improvement.

 

So much for the idea that a linear PSU will by itself make a significant improvement. This was a disappointing - and expensive - experiment. But I suppose I have learned something.

 

What happens if you disconnect the fans in the case? (leave the case open so it does not overheat)

Synology DS214+ with MinimServer --> Ethernet --> Sonore mRendu / SOtM SMS-200 --> Chord Hugo --> Chord interconnects --> Naim NAP 200--> Chord speaker cable --> Focal Aria 948

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Then I realised that the reason it sounded more analogue was because I was listening to additional distortions. The PC with the standard PSU sounded a little faster, more colourful, more three dimensional, but also a little glassier a little more precise, a little ore "digital".

 

That description alone could suggest Jitter and artificial treble. Some tracks may sound a little quieter when " Jitter" is reduced, but overall the dynamics should sound greater when appropriate,and there should be an ease of listening without fatigue.

Since when does added distortions translate to analogue ? Crappy analogue perhaps.

 

The voltage instability suggests a problem with this particular PSU, perhaps even overheating due to either inadequate or faulty heat sinking.

A PSU consuming only 4 or 5 watts at idle, with heat sinks the size of this PSU should only have a barely noticeable temperature rise above ambient temperature .

Do you have access to a DMM so that you could measure the various voltage rails both at idle and when starting up ?

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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A PSU consuming only 4 or 5 watts at idle, with heat sinks the size of this PSU should only have a barely noticeable temperature rise above ambient temperature.

 

4 or 5 watts at idle, that means with server switched off ? PSU with this much heatsinking, should idle at room temp.

 

My Teradak ATX linear PSU is bearly warm to the touch with the server beeing ON (not off). I leave mine on 24/7.

Adam

 

PC: custom Roon server with Pink Faun Ultra OCXO USB card

Digital: Lampizator Horizon DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

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@Ultrarunner, how would you compare the JS-2 to the hdplex ? I am very much interested to know if I upgrade my hdplex to a JS-2, what should I gain in terms of SQ. Could you also tell, what devices are being feed from the JS-2 ?

 

I purchased the JS-2 for use with the micrRendu, when it's available. The HD Plex will move with the server to another room at that point, so I needed another supply.

 

My wife and I did hear an improvement just powering a Regen. I would say the sound is more "solid". Improvements in the bass gives the music a little more drive, I would also say the highs were a little more natural sounding, with less edginess. A little bigger soundstage too. We have a fairly revealing system which makes it easy to hear the differences when changing something. I later connected the second JS-2 output to the SoTM USB card of my current server. The improvement here was fairly subtle, but definitely there.

SonicTransporter i9 > EtherRegen (optical out) > LUMIN P1 > LUMIN Amp > YG Kipod Signature Passive speakers.

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I don't have a multimeter, so cannot test the voltage. It does sound like there is a problem with this PSU. Even so, I'm not convinced it is worthwhile investing more time in it given the audible results.

 

For those who don't have a DMM, and want a cheap and easy method to monitor the output voltages in a PC or a Linear PSU, the attached link may be of interest. They can also be permanently mounted if required.If you wish to monitor a 3.3V rail, do not use the Blue or White versions which need a higher voltage supply than 3.3V to function. This is due to the forward voltage drops of Blue and White type LEDs. I have a couple of the White LED versions and they read within 100mV of the voltage as displayed on a close tolerance DMM.

Alex

 

0.28 Inch 2.5V-30V Mini Digital Voltmeter Voltage Tester Meter Sale - Banggood.com

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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The variable output on the HDPlex 300W ATX failed on me. I was outputting 5V. Now it only outputs 28 to 31V depending on my poor main AC supply (was a little popping and smell after it blew). I don't think it has a proper heat sink to handle that big of a drop in voltage. All other outputs are working.

Here are some readings I've taken with 110V power (which can vary a lot here in CR). Respective ATX and DC outputs put out the same Voltage.

12V DC - 12.37V

5V DC - 5.42V

19V DC - 19.36V

purple ATX - 5.04V

orange ATX - 3.41V

blue ATX - 11.96V

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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The variable output on the HDPlex 300W ATX failed on me. I was outputting 5V. Now it only outputs 28 to 31V depending on my poor main AC supply (was a little popping and smell after it blew). I don't think it has a proper heat sink to handle that big of a drop in voltage. All other outputs are working.

 

Unfortunately, that was my previously expressed concern in a different thread.

Sorry to hear that it happened though, as the manufacturer should have warned about this possibility with such a huge voltage drop across the regulator when under more than a light load.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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The variable output on the HDPlex 300W ATX failed on me. I was outputting 5V. Now it only outputs 28 to 31V depending on my poor main AC supply (was a little popping and smell after it blew).

 

Oh man, that sucks. I am sure Larry will take care of you. I know from talking to Larry that the variable output board is new so perhaps there are some bugs still. Please let us know what the resolution is.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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Oh man, that sucks. I am sure Larry will take care of you. I know from talking to Larry that the variable output board is new so perhaps there are some bugs still. Please let us know what the resolution is.

 

Thanks guys. Larry is great, all will be rectified. Just want to give heads up to anyone else and to be wary of what you connect to that output.

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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Thanks guys. Larry is great, all will be rectified. Just want to give heads up to anyone else and to be wary of what you connect to that output.

 

So what is the resolution? Do you have to send your lps back to Larry or is it something you can repair?

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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Thanks guys. Larry is great, all will be rectified. Just want to give heads up to anyone else and to be wary of what you connect to that output.

 

What did you have connected to that output at the time ? When a series regulator goes short circuit it can also damage the device connected to it.

Personally, I am not too impressed with a +5V output that reads 5.42V either. Even the humble LM7805 voltage regulator I.C. is specified from 4.8V to 5.2V, with most specimens closer to 5.0V

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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What did you have connected to that output at the time ? When a series regulator goes short circuit it can also damage the device connected to it.

Personally, I am not too impressed with a +5V output that reads 5.42V either. Even the humble LM7805 voltage regulator I.C. is specified from 4.8V to 5.2V, with most specimens closer to 5.0V

 

Needless to say, everything that was attached was destroyed. It was an expensive price not only monetarily but in time and effort since I live in a nearly impossible place to send and receive things. (Without great expense)

Couldn't agree more about that 5V output. ATX specs call for +/- .25V. 5.42V is out of spec.

I notice now, after the variable output was knocked out, that my unit runs much better/cooler, even with nearly the same wattage being output minus the PPA usb card, arggggh.

 

All in all I can't at this time recommend the 300W ATX HDPlex until these design issues are worked out. Great service can't overcome these short comings. It will be at least a few months before I can take any actions to resolve my issues.

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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Needless to say, everything that was attached was destroyed. It was an expensive price not only monetarily but in time and effort since I live in a nearly impossible place to send and receive things. (Without great expense)

Couldn't agree more about that 5V output. ATX specs call for +/- .25V. 5.42V is out of spec.

I notice now, after the variable output was knocked out, that my unit runs much better/cooler, even with nearly the same wattage being output minus the PPA usb card, arggggh.

 

All in all I can't at this time recommend the 300W ATX HDPlex until these design issues are worked out. Great service can't overcome these short comings. It will be at least a few months before I can take any actions to resolve my issues.

Ugh...great now I am a bit concerned as I have a lot of gear connected to this LPS. I did some measurements myself and here is what I am getting:

 

19V = 19.12V

12V = 12.2V

5V = 5.35V

7.19V (Adj) = 7.22V

 

I do not (yet) use the adjustable output. After reading this post I will definitely hesitate. I am going to contact Larry about this too.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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Ugh...great now I am a bit concerned as I have a lot of gear connected to this LPS. I did some measurements myself and here is what I am getting:

 

19V = 19.12V

12V = 12.2V

5V = 5.35V

7.19V (Adj) = 7.22V

 

I do not (yet) use the adjustable output. After reading this post I will definitely hesitate. I am going to contact Larry about this too.

 

If not using the adjustable I would turn it up as high as possible. Your unit will probably run cooler.

(JRiver) Jetway barebones NUC (mod 3 sCLK-EX, Cybershaft OP 14)  (PH SR7) => mini pcie adapter to PCIe 1X => tXUSBexp PCIe card (mod sCLK-EX) (PH SR7) => (USPCB) Chord DAVE => Omega Super 8XRS/REL t5i  (All powered thru Topaz Isolation Transformer)

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If not using the adjustable I would turn it up as high as possible. Your unit will probably run cooler.

I've had the adjustable output set at 4.8V (though with nothing plugged into it) since the day I got the HDPlex. When I only had 1 PC connected to the 19V output the LPS ran very cool so I do not think adjusting it up to max will do anything. When I connected my second PC to the LPS the unit got a bit warmer but I can still leave my hand on it.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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Needless to say, everything that was attached was destroyed. It was an expensive price not only monetarily but in time and effort since I live in a nearly impossible place to send and receive things. (Without great expense)

Couldn't agree more about that 5V output. ATX specs call for +/- .25V. 5.42V is out of spec.

I notice now, after the variable output was knocked out, that my unit runs much better/cooler, even with nearly the same wattage being output minus the PPA usb card, arggggh.

 

All in all I can't at this time recommend the 300W ATX HDPlex until these design issues are worked out. Great service can't overcome these short comings. It will be at least a few months before I can take any actions to resolve my issues.

 

 

Are manufacturers liable when something like this happens? Seems a bit harsh for you to suck up big losses when his psu has fried your other gear.

 

Glad I got rid of my hd-plex now!

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I have been communicating with Larry from HDPlex regarding this issue. He asked that I present his thoughts on what happened. First of all, he will be compensating Elvia for his PPA. Secondly, here is response about the adjustable output:

 

His PPA card for some reason fried my adjustable output internal circuit. Once the internal circuit is damaged. The adjustable output will output 30V.

So on the surface, it looks to him that the adjustable output fried his PPA card.

But my engineer does not think it is our 300W who cause this.

We will also add a protective circuit for this adjustable output. Once it is damaged, it will only output 5V at Max.

Currently all other output has two way OCP And OVP. It is very difficult to add OCP and OVP for adjustable output since the output value is not fixed.

I am not an electrical engineer but I am not sure how the PPA could have caused the adjustable output board to get damaged? Can anyone explain if this is possible? Other than that, I know its still a pain but its great to hear that Larry will take care of things.

 

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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