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Auralic Aries (Hardware) - Impressions and Information


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Thank you for your suggestions wrt Regen and Recovery.

 

I admit I have some homework to do, as I do not really follow the whole 5V and GND point yet, as well as the 3-wire USB.

 

My DAC is the Ayre Codex, and my USB cable is a Cardas Clear.

 

So I need to check if the former needs to see 5V, and if the latter is 3-wire? Given your description, I suspect the Cardas is just a regular, shielded cable. Not sure about the Codex. I'll also look into the Vbus2.

 

 

 

 

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Thank you for your suggestions wrt Regen and Recovery.

 

I admit I have some homework to do, as I do not really follow the whole 5V and GND point yet, as well as the 3-wire USB.

 

My DAC is the Ayre Codex, and my USB cable is a Cardas Clear.

 

So I need to check if the former needs to see 5V, and if the latter is 3-wire? Given your description, I suspect the Cardas is just a regular, shielded cable. Not sure about the Codex. I'll also look into the Vbus2.

 

 

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Cardas Clear is a regular shielded USB cable...but a very good one though! :) Buying a Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator is a very good starting point. With it you will be able to know if you present DAC or any future DAC will require 5v or not...plus hear what a difference it makes. On top of that Vbus2 actually improves 2-wire USB cables as well (in my case)...which I assume (ei. I do not know for sure why) is due to it shields the plugs and isolates from the USB bus. I own two...and use one between Aries and Regen and one between Regen and my DAC/HPA/PRE. I know one thing for sure. Removing or isolating both GND and 5v is extremely awarding. It is like buying a much better DAC! :)

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Cardas Clear is a regular shielded USB cable...but a very good one though! :) Buying a Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator is a very good starting point. With it you will be able to know if you present DAC or any future DAC will require 5v or not...plus hear what a difference it makes. On top of that Vbus2 actually improves 2-wire USB cables as well (in my case)...which I assume (ei. I do not know for sure why) is due to it shields the plugs and isolates from the USB bus. I own two...and use one between Aries and Regen and one between Regen and my DAC/HPA/PRE. I know one thing for sure. Removing or isolating both GND and 5v is extremely awarding. It is like buying a much better DAC! :)

 

I will definitely start with the VBus2. That makes total sense.

 

The frustration I have with active tweaks like the RUR, Regen etc, is that while you gain from the reclocking/regeneration, you have to pay the piper by added noise from the power supply! I notice some of you are fortunate to have spare taps on your expensive LPSes, which can solve the problem, but I don't have a spare LPS. I have the Auralic LPS for my Aries Mini.

 

Is there a good LPS option for the RUR at a reasonable cost (say $50)? I've seen mixed reports on the iFi iPower. On the network side, I used Jameco supplies for my FMCs, which sound very good. But not sure there's a Jameco solution for the Regen/RUR.

 

And BTW - I feel like I may have taken this Aries thread OT, so maybe we should move this to a more appropriate thread?

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I will definitely start with the VBus2. That makes total sense.

 

The frustration I have with active tweaks like the RUR, Regen etc, is that while you gain from the reclocking/regeneration, you have to pay the piper by added noise from the power supply! I notice some of you are fortunate to have spare taps on your expensive LPSes, which can solve the problem, but I don't have a spare LPS. I have the Auralic LPS for my Aries Mini.

 

Is there a good LPS option for the RUR at a reasonable cost (say $50)? I've seen mixed reports on the iFi iPower. On the network side, I used Jameco supplies for my FMCs, which sound very good. But not sure there's a Jameco solution for the Regen/RUR.

 

And BTW - I feel like I may have taken this Aries thread OT, so maybe we should move this to a more appropriate thread?

 

That noise is the whole reason why I power my Aries Mini and Regen by battery supplies...having only one device (my DAC/HPA/PRE) powered by AC mains via a power filter. My router input (using F plugs) is galvantic isolated and I am using strong 5G wireless to my Aries Mini. I also ground my DAC/HPA/PRE plus my Aries Mini externally and are trying to figure out how to ground the Regen externally as well. Since I am not a RUR user I cannot say what works best for that device...but for me personally battery supply for Regen is outstanding...but ONLY if you have the possibillity to change ALL DC powered devices to battery and remaining devices powered by AC. Just my 2 cents.

Let me know if you descide to start a new thread. Otherwise you can just PM me. :-)

 

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That noise is the whole reason why I power my Aries Mini and Regen by battery supplies...having only one device (my DAC/HPA/PRE) powered by AC mains via a power filter. My router input (using F plugs) is galvantic isolated and I am using strong 5G wireless to my Aries Mini. I also ground my DAC/HPA/PRE plus my Aries Mini externally and are trying to figure out how to ground the Regen externally as well. Since I am not a RUR user I cannot say what works best for that device...but for me personally battery supply for Regen is outstanding...but ONLY if you have the possibillity to change ALL DC powered devices to battery and remaining devices powered by AC. Just my 2 cents.

Let me know if you descide to start a new thread. Otherwise you can just PM me. :-)

 

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You are way past my threshold for tweaking!

 

I'll start with the Vbus2, and see how it goes. Of course I first have to find it - none of the Sbooster dealers in the US I've checked even have it, and Sbooster doesn't ship direct to the US.

 

Will keep looking.

 

 

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You are way past my threshold for tweaking!

 

I'll start with the Vbus2, and see how it goes. Of course I first have to find it - none of the Sbooster dealers in the US I've checked even have it, and Sbooster doesn't ship direct to the US.

 

Will keep looking.

 

 

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I choose to call them "simplifiers" rather than "tweaks"! ;-) However, you'll need to take a more complicated route to end up with a more simple setup.

 

Good call to start with Vbus2! I heard about other people in the US having problems buying the Vbus. If I were you I would e-mail directly to SBooster in Holland. I am pretty sure they will help you out! :-)

 

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Would there be any difference between getting a USB cable without the 5V leg instead of the Vbus2?

A USB cable without the 5v leg is better than Vbus2...but both together are better still IME. I strongly beleive that the best USB cable are a unshielded 3-wire cable with unpluggable GND wire and shielded plugs. That USB cable would'nt need a Vbus2! ;-)

 

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I would think adding a Vbus2 is like adding an extra connection which adds noise. The less adapters the better.

Thought so myself until I tried it IRL. But remember that capasitive coupling create noises and noises travels freely through power and GND. Also Vbus2 is very well constructed and beats Vbus1 hands down.

 

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I've been looking at LPSes in the context of my recent discussions on RUR and Regen. The problem is the high cost of LPSes in general, especially good ones.

 

I may have found a solution that is cost-effective. The HDPlex 100. It's $395, but it has 4 simultaneous rails, that may help me kill 4 birds with one stone, as it were.

 

But first let's backup to what I have:

  1. Auralic Aries Mini with Auralic LPS (LPS cost $299)
  2. 2 x TP-Link MC200CM Fiber Media Controllers for optical isolation, with Jameco power supplies

 

And to this I want to add:

  1. Wyred 4 Sound Recovery

 

I exchanged emails with Larry at HDPlex, and for $395, he can sell me a custom HDPlex, with a 16V tap for the Mini, 9V for the Recovery, and 2x 5V for the FMCs.

 

Assuming I could sell my Auralic LPS for $225-250, this would be fairly cost-effective, and it gives me the bonus of getting LPSes on my FMCs. The Jamecos are nice, but hardly LPSes.

 

Any flaws in my logic? Any views on the HDPlex as an LPS?

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I've been looking at LPSes in the context of my recent discussions on RUR and Regen. The problem is the high cost of LPSes in general, especially good ones.

 

I may have found a solution that is cost-effective. The HDPlex 100. It's $395, but it has 4 simultaneous rails, that may help me kill 4 birds with one stone, as it were.

 

But first let's backup to what I have:

  1. Auralic Aries Mini with Auralic LPS (LPS cost $299)
  2. 2 x TP-Link MC200CM Fiber Media Controllers for optical isolation, with Jameco power supplies

 

And to this I want to add:

  1. Wyred 4 Sound Recovery

 

I exchanged emails with Larry at HDPlex, and for $395, he can sell me a custom HDPlex, with a 16V tap for the Mini, 9V for the Recovery, and 2x 5V for the FMCs.

 

Assuming I could sell my Auralic LPS for $225-250, this would be fairly cost-effective, and it gives me the bonus of getting LPSes on my FMCs. The Jamecos are nice, but hardly LPSes.

 

Any flaws in my logic? Any views on the HDPlex as an LPS?

 

I have no comments about the HDPlex except that many people is speaking highly about them. Never tried it myself and do not know how it compares to Auralic LPS.

If I were you I would'nt want to power the FMCs with the same LPS as your audio gears. You might end up with more noise since network gears tend to pollute the mains. I would treat them separate and connect them to a different mains outlet to your audio gears or run them on battery supply (5v BPS is very easy to find) and the Aries and W4S Recovery via HDPlex. Just my personal point of view.

 

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I have no comments about the HDPlex except that many people is speaking highly about them. Never tried it myself and do not know how it compares to Auralic LPS.

If I were you I would'nt want to power the FMCs with the same LPS as your audio gears. You might end up with more noise since network gears tend to pollute the mains. I would treat them separate and connect them to a different mains outlet to your audio gears or run them on battery supply (5v BPS is very easy to find) and the Aries and W4S Recovery via HDPlex. Just my personal point of view.

 

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Hmm good point.

 

I haven't even been considering battery PSes. Any recommendations for 5V/1.2A?

 

 

 

 

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Hmm good point.

 

I haven't even been considering battery PSes. Any recommendations for 5V/1.2A?

 

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/juiced-external-battery-charger

 

(This is inactive right now on Massdrop, but I assume it's available elsewhere.)

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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https://www.massdrop.com/buy/juiced-external-battery-charger

 

(This is inactive right now on Massdrop, but I assume it's available elsewhere.)

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I will research BPSes. Some questions I hope to answer are:

  • Operating mode: do you leave the BP charging when not in use for audio, and then disconnect during actual audio operation, to provide isolation from the power line? Then reconnect power after audio use to recharge?
  • This unit only has 500 charge cycles, which seems low to me. Need to see what the ranges are.

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Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I will research BPSes. Some questions I hope to answer are:

  • Operating mode: do you leave the BP charging when not in use for audio, and then disconnect during actual audio operation, to provide isolation from the power line? Then reconnect power after audio use to recharge?
  • This unit only has 500 charge cycles, which seems low to me. Need to see what the ranges are.

 

RE: Operating mode. Best for sure is to remove it completely and charge it after each use. Other option is to attach the charger to a mains timer and set it to off during listening hours and on during the remaining time.

 

RE Charge cycles. 500 cycles are pretty much standard. However, remember that those cycles are from emty to full. If you charge after each use (using a mains timer) you will keep your Li-ion battery happy and prolong the total battery life. If you abuse the battery it will last for a couple of years. If you care about it you will enjoy atleast double that time before it is time to change battery.

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Hmm good point.

 

I haven't even been considering battery PSes. Any recommendations for 5V/1.2A?

 

 

 

 

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Here is another suggestion of a suitable powerbank

Original Xiaomi 20000mAh DC5.1V 3.6A Dual USB Output Fast Charge Power Bank

https://banggood.app.link/5L7Ui6X7Qw

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Here is another suggestion of a suitable powerbank

Original Xiaomi 20000mAh DC5.1V 3.6A Dual USB Output Fast Charge Power Bank

https://banggood.app.link/5L7Ui6X7Qw

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

 

Looks like about the same thing from same site and a few bucks cheaper: Cager B20000 20000mAh Dual USB Port Power Bank Portable Battery Charger Sale - Banggood.com

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Hoping someone here is having similar issues with Aries grouped. I have 2 Aries that play perfectly well at the same time, ungrouped, with a house hold of 5 using my network for a variety of things. TV, internet, wifi, music etc. NEVER a problem with drop outs until the Aries are grouped together. Then with NO other network usage, just the 2 Aries playing 44.1 files I get drop outs. Switch to ungrouped and both play fine. These are the main things happening. All done with SPDIF digital outputs to avoid any USB issues. (Although there are none when ungrouped)

 

 

- 5 seconds into a new track, music stops and Aries display shows time .07, .08, .09, .07, .08 etc.

 

-After leaving and returning about 2 hours later, no music and Master Aries in group not recognized by LDS. Aries remote control wont work. have to do a hard reset.

 

-To eliminate any internet data issues I did a test with a USB drive using Lighting Server, playing only local files. Same drop outs occur.

 

-Same files in LDS, while still playing, show "Octet-Stream" instead of "FLAC" etc.

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Is Tidal Cached?

 

After performing some tests, I have concluded that it does.

However, not the complete track unlike a track from a NAS.

 

Does this difference affect how the sources are replayed?

A question for Auralic, I think.

 

nb - test simply involved queuing a track and once playing, removing the Aries from the network.

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After performing some tests, I have concluded that it does.

However, not the complete track unlike a track from a NAS.

 

Does this difference affect how the sources are replayed?

A question for Auralic, I think.

 

nb - test simply involved queuing a track and once playing, removing the Aries from the network.

 

According to Auralic, caching only occurs from tracks stored in memory. Anything streamed is not cached.

 

Martin.

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