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About Hauser

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  1. What is the possibility of using that second fibre port of say a Solarflare PCIE network card and convert the signal to USB? Martin.
  2. Had a look at the Adnaco products. The USB remote uses the ten year old NEC USB3 controller, the same as the original J Cat card. Adnaco's site doesn't say how this controller is clocked. The upsides are isolation by optical cable and powering the remote with a 5V supply of choice. A better option may be to use the Adnaco RT4 PCIE card and populate it with a H1A optical card and a more recent USB card. The H1A will require 3.3V, the USB card, 3.3, 5V and possibly 12V. The J Cat and Pink Faun cards are a simpler but more expensive solution. Martin.
  3. Hi, Probably not. The J Cat card will give its best performance using a dedicated LPS. Powering anything from the motherboard will be inferior. The motherboard uses buck converters to get the voltages it needs creating noise. Martin
  4. Hi Johnseye, If simple DIY is your thing, Ian Canada has developed a 5V 2.5A PCB, fully populated. It requires a suitable box, 6V AC transformer, an AC input and DC output and you'll be good to go. The PCB is available on his thread at DIY Audio or through Audiophonics. Upgradable to an ultracap supply. Martin
  5. Hi Fadasan, Ian Canada has new Linear Pi power supply boards in 3.3 and 5V versions. These can supply up to 2.5A. He has a thread on Diyaudio in the Power supply forum. Supersurfer has some recent posts where he wired 2 5V supplies in series to power a Etherregen. The supplies are upgradeable by adding ultracap boards. These can be purchased direct from him or some of the boards are available from Audiophonics. Cost is very reasonable but you need to get your own transformer, box and do some basic wiring. For the ultracap boards, the caps need to be sourced and soldered. His Gith
  6. If you are trying to dissipate heat using heatpipes, larger diameter is better, fewer bends is better, round is better, more contact surface is better. ATS site offers good information. Martin
  7. Just as a reference; Onlinemetal price for 1.5 x 6 x 12inch copper flat bar USD 380 plus freight plus machining. It becomes easier to understand why Taiko only did copper on one side and how much their case is likely to cost. Martin
  8. That looks like a cunning plan. I haven't seen these for sale. I'm still struggling to cut copper but have bought some router bits to see if I can mill a slot. Copper flat bar is expensive in New Zealand. Regarding thermal resistance, the Marston heatsink (96CN) has less than half that of a heatsink of a similar profile to the Takachi. Probably best to go with heatsink sizes similar to those already tested as in the Hdplex case to get some confidence of success. Martin
  9. I started with the same idea as you having already used their boxes in a couple of other projects. After I posted about them, it was pointed out that the heatsinks would not be up to the job. I checked and the base thickness is only 5mm so when you carve out a 3 or 4mm slot for heatpipes there is not much material left. I agree they are very versatile with the range of sizes available but not suitable for dealing with much heat. I am working through making my own case. The latest obstacle is the Marston heatsinks I ordered have a concave base. I'm getting Element14 to check whether the F
  10. Back when Seasonic brought out the 520FL, it gained a following for its performance with audiophiles along with some notoriety for coil whine. They have recently superseded this model with the PX/TX seres of fanless PSUs. These, and the similar Silverstone supplies have low ripple and being fanless, have overspeced and high quality parts that may suit them to audio applications. Martin.
  11. Hi Peter, I looked at this using aluminium as the top clamp and weight was much closer to the limit. Seeing the heatsinks in the Taiko, they are definitely heavier than 600g. For this area to be covered, exceeding the weight limit with heatsinks is inevitable because copper does a much better job at collecting/transferring heat. The answer may be in properly supporting the underside of the board directly under the socket. Martin.
  12. A while ago I made a couple of Schroeder BNC cables for Dave-HMS using Neotech solid core silver double shielded when on sale at Parts Connexion. They were a bit of a pig to build; required grinding the conductor and insulation to a point to marry the two cables at the connector. Martin.
  13. Still busy researching but have some ideas for the LGA3647 heatsink: sketch attached. Studied Taiko's version and I'm sure its weight exceeds Intel's spec. of 600g. Suspecting its supported from underneath. For those with a lower DIY interest, maybe me included, I'm also considering a simpler version. Cooltex on Aliexpress sell a skived copper heatsink. Removing the fins provides a suitable base. Using solder paste to attach a 58 x 94 x 1/4 inch copper plate would only leave some cutting, drilling, tapping and U slotting for the upper parts; typing this, still doesn't sound that simple.
  14. Take a look at Taiko Extreme. They mount the transformer on end. The Toroidy 400 is 65 x 150 Dia. So long as the case internal is min 160 ht. should be good to go. Then can also orientate horizontally. Martin
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