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15 USB/SPDIF converters shootout


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And do you have a SQ preference for the Offrampor the new AP?

 

I own the offramp 5 and it's double clock with the new PSU as well.

I also own the new AP1/PP. they both work very well and improve greatly Anything I use with them. Now keep in mind the AP1/PP does do 24/384 and dsd. Where the others do not. The ap is cheaper but the offramp has two additional I2S outputs as well. They both work very well. And unless you spend a lot of money on a dac you really do need one.

An example is the ps audio Pwd mkii. With my offramp or AP1/PP it performs far better than using the bridge or transport. I own them too. Jitter effects everything Audio.

Another example is my SENN HDVD800 Without the ap1/pp the dac is horrible with certain details of music. With it there is no need to use a outside dac with it.

 

Al

Main listening (small home office):

Main setup: Surge protector +>Isol-8 Mini sub Axis Power Strip/Isolation>QuietPC Low Noise Server>Roon (Audiolense DRC)>Stack Audio Link II>Kii Control>Kii Three (on their own electric circuit) >GIK Room Treatments.

Secondary Path: Server with Audiolense RC>RPi4 or analog>Cayin iDAC6 MKII (tube mode) (XLR)>Kii Three BXT

Bedroom: SBTouch to Cambridge Soundworks Desktop Setup.
Living Room/Kitchen: Ropieee (RPi3b+ with touchscreen) + Schiit Modi3E to a pair of Morel Hogtalare. 

All absolute statements about audio are false :)

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No I do not . I like the offramp better solely on the fact it has more outputs.

They both sound great. I do think the review here is spot on. But keep in mind it is easy to tell things apart when going from to another. There were three thee that all sounded better than the rest . And we are talking about two of them.

Al

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Thinking about getting a new USB to SPDIF Converter.

 

I recently sold my iFi iLink but still have the iFi iUSB so using a USB powered converter is no problem as the power supply noise would be very low.

 

I'd like something with RCA or BNC but must have AES/EBU on it as well.

Currently using RCA on my Schiit Gungnir, but plan to use AES/EBU when the Schiit Yggdrasil releases.

 

Was planning on getting the V-Link 192 but that seems to be discontinued now..

 

Any recommendations?

Belcanto mlink has BNC, though no AES

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The review was in my opinion done very well and accurate. I do not recall the top 3. But the one at the top I thought was the most expensive. I think as I have two of them the offramp is tops based on the many outputs it provides. And next wood be the audiophileo

as it's the only one to do 24/384 and dsd.

 

Al

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Belcanto mlink has BNC, though no AES

 

Seems to me like:

 

Bel Canto mLink = Low Phase Noise Clocks / BNC OUT

Bel Canto uLink = Ultra-Low Phase Noise Clocks / BNC and ST Fiber OUT (ST Fiber seems useless for me)

 

The mLink/uLink takes its power from the USB connection and filters it with multiple dedicated supplies.

Since the iFi iUSB already outputs extremely low 0.1uV noise level, this sounds like it will add noise let alone filter anything.

 

Musical Fidelity V-LINK192 = Ultra-Low Phase Noise Clocks / RCA and AES (Both useful, though wish it was BNC instead of RCA)

iFi Audio iLink = Ultra-Low Phase Noise Clocks / RCA and Optical (.5V and 5V RCA signal output and JET Elimination Technology)

To me it seems like the V-LINK192 is great as i can use the RCA output now and upgrade later to AES/EBU. However in the mean-time, the Crystal Semiconductor CS8416 receiver in my Schiit Gungnir does better with 5V signal which the iFi iLink delivers, that and with the JET feature. If the V-LINK192 also delivers 5V signal, that would be most ideal and i'd buy it in a heartbeat. Does anyone know if it does?

 

Computer > iFi iUSB Power Supply > iFi iPurifier USB Conditioner> iFi iLink USB to SPDIF Converter >

Matrix Audio X-Sabre DAC > AMB Balanced Beta 22 AMP>

 

 

 

 

 

 

|ϟ| SVS SB-1000 Subwoofer |ϟ| Adam A7X Monitors |ϟ| Sennheiser HD800 Headphones

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Do you have any time to evaluate and add the Bel Canto offerings. They have three on the market. I would be very interested to see your evaluation. Great job on your post. Very useful.

System consists of Late 2012 iMac, i5, 1TB Fusion drive, 16GB RAM, Drobo Mini w/4-256GB SSD, MIT StyleLink USB Plus, MIT CVT Terminator 1 Bi-Wire, Totem Mani-2 Signature, Bel Canto C5i. I go back and forth between Pure Music, Audirvana, Bit Perfect, Amarra as they all have features I like. I like to mix it up from time to time. :-)

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  • 1 month later...
I did a short evaluation of Hiface2 vs. EVO, EVO Clock + Linear PS …

 

Hiface2 has a comparable sound quality against basic EVO setup ( little darker sound for HF2 ), but if you upgrade EVO with it's clock and a good power supply, HF2 definitely lose the battle …

 

Have a nice day. Massimiliano

 

Hi, i just tried my new EVO connected to AUDIOGD NFB 7.32 by I2S...it was a little bit tricky because I2S pinout on EVO manual and M2tech site is wrong, so at the beginning no chance to get sound out the DAC via I2S...

 

From M2tec support i quickly had the correct schematics and built a 20 cm I2S cable with a shielded CAT6 cable and after connetcing a MACMINI with AMARRA to the EVO, i finally could hear how I2S sounds...

 

I think I2S is far more better than AES or Coax...it sounds smoother and refined with more focus on instruments and voices...coupling MAC (amarra) + EVO and NFB to a Krell HTS 7.1 heavly tweaked and a Krell TAS in biamplification of a pair of BG RADIA L800 sound is crystal clear, dynamic and smooth as i always wanted it to be

 

Now i am waiting an EVO clock and power supply to complete the full EVO setup....

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  • 1 month later...
So, to summarize:

 

1. s/pdif, usb, rca, aes-ebu, and st fiber (perhaps bnc too- not clear on that) all suck.

2. s/pdif converters suck.

3. running straight from the computer's usb buss to a usb dac sucks.

 

I enjoy reading these posts for educational purposes, but for those of us who are not electrical engineers, audio component designers or industry insiders, what is the practical "take away" from all this discussion?

I guess the "take away" is that all sucks.

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It's not that any input on a dac is better because of the type . It's totally a device situation not the method used. For me as a audio gd M7 owner the HDMI beats them all . But this is a device that just has some underlying issues that the USB converter is helping. I now also own a lampi B7. It sounds it's best with USB with just a good USB cable . I did try the off ramp and AP1/pp. I felt they changed things for the worse. Two other dacs that did not get help were the Hugo although others say it does and the new ps audio DS. they just sound better to me without the USB converters

al

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Many, many thanks to Adam for the excellent comparison and to all posters for the additional information ! This thread has been very useful to me.

 

One converter that seems not to have been discussed so far is the Teddy Pardo TeddyU2S. I have a M2Tech hiFace Evo into a Naim DAC but I am considering ordering a TeddyU2S (first, to avoid M2Tech's external power adaptor and, second, because I very much prefer the cleaner front and form factor of the TeddyU2S to M2Tech's front in / back out design). The question is how does the TeddyU2S perform in relation to the (bare) M2Tech hiFace Evo. Can anyone provide some feedback ?

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I could compare U10 only with hiFace Two and U10 is clearly better. hiFace is brighter, trebles seem to be less controlled, it sounds more rough in comparison. U10 is more quiet, more detailed, simply better.

i7 11850H + RTX A2000 Win11 HQPlayer ► Topping HS02 ► 2x iFi iSilencer ► SMSL D300 ► DIY headamp DHA1 ► HiFiMan HE-500
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Bogi, Did you try it with your X-10? I have Dac-X10 coming hopefully this week. A lot of my music is just 44k and was wondering if the TCXO clocks in the convertor might be better than the X-10's clocks, at least for standard CDs.

Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers DQ-LP1 crossover 2 DW-1 Subs

Dynaco Mk III Mains - Rotel 991 Subs

Wyred W4S Pre Gustard X10 DAC

SOtM dx-USB-HD reclocked SOtMmBPS-d2s

Intel Thin-mini ITX

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Harpy, glad to hear that another member of this forum will own X10, so we can share our experiences!

 

Yes, I am using U10 with X10 for Redbook material. Please read my current impressions here: http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/price-ess9018-containaing-digital-analogue-converter-dropping-fast-16986/#post332159

i7 11850H + RTX A2000 Win11 HQPlayer ► Topping HS02 ► 2x iFi iSilencer ► SMSL D300 ► DIY headamp DHA1 ► HiFiMan HE-500
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Thanks bogi may have a question or two as well. Looking forward to it rossb. Going to compare a SOTM DX-USB-HD running CCHD-957 to the U10.

Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers DQ-LP1 crossover 2 DW-1 Subs

Dynaco Mk III Mains - Rotel 991 Subs

Wyred W4S Pre Gustard X10 DAC

SOtM dx-USB-HD reclocked SOtMmBPS-d2s

Intel Thin-mini ITX

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Bogi, Did you try it with your X-10? I have Dac-X10 coming hopefully this week. A lot of my music is just 44k and was wondering if the TCXO clocks in the convertor might be better than the X-10's clocks, at least for standard CDs.

 

TCXOs? Only if the XO is really bad. Which most are. (What do you want for $1?) But, I digress.

 

I don't know how this myth that TCXOs are great got started. I know that thought is big with Chinese engineers. Several of them (who are probably smarter than I am) have tried to convince me they can tell the jitter by rattling off the frequency stability, or PPM accuracy.

 

"Well, jitter is just the inverse of the drift." Sorry, no it isn't!

 

Designing for low jitter is a whole different technique.

 

Anyone who thinks their clock is really low jitter, send it to us. We will measure it, for free even. (You pay all shipping costs.) And put the results here, for the amusement of all.

 

Unless you are manufacturer. You will have to pay.

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Anyone who thinks their clock is really low jitter, send it to us. And put the results here, for the amusement of all.

 

That would be interesting. I have two different TCXO's (3 once the convertor arrives), your $1 XO (Sunny), and a set Crystek of CCHD-957s. Measuring the noise floor on each would be interesting too (or maybe that what's your measuring). I was thinking of removing the clocks from the converter and putting in sockets to rotate different clock types in (like the CCHD-957s). There is also the option reclocking after the converter with something like a Mutec 3+ and an atomic clock or world clock, but I don't fully grasp it and my budget is low.

Anyway.... if you would like to test and post the results I am your man. Have clocks galore and wouldn't mind sending them.

I have actually made the comparison in another convertor and definitely preferred the Crystek over the Sunnys, and Vanguard TCXOs, but it would be neat to see the measurements.

Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers DQ-LP1 crossover 2 DW-1 Subs

Dynaco Mk III Mains - Rotel 991 Subs

Wyred W4S Pre Gustard X10 DAC

SOtM dx-USB-HD reclocked SOtMmBPS-d2s

Intel Thin-mini ITX

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It would be a total of 4 clocks (just 1 frequency) and I would be happy to pay shipping. Hopefully 4 isn't being too greedy or taxing too much of your time, but it would be very interesting.

Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers DQ-LP1 crossover 2 DW-1 Subs

Dynaco Mk III Mains - Rotel 991 Subs

Wyred W4S Pre Gustard X10 DAC

SOtM dx-USB-HD reclocked SOtMmBPS-d2s

Intel Thin-mini ITX

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hi

the U10 interface you talked about is close in price to the one I bought from DIYINHK for ; but mine seems to work with a new generation of xmos chip.

You need to take into account the power supply, the one from diyinhk is quite good.

At least the result is really a bargain, in terms of quieter background detais etc.

2.1 basic stuff => 2 mains are Dynaudio Core59 + sub Dynaudio 18s

Actives / digital AES in / active correction on PC side

Passive daddy setup is dead

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Bogi, Did you try it with your X-10? I have Dac-X10 coming hopefully this week. A lot of my music is just 44k and was wondering if the TCXO clocks in the convertor might be better than the X-10's clocks, at least for standard CDs.

 

I'm exterimenting with battery power supply for USB input 2nd day. After some more testing I mean U10 brings nothing more to X10, when clean USB power is used.

 

Maybe U10 does a bit better filtering of the computer USB power and therefore, without external USB power, it sounds little bit cleaner and more dynamic.

i7 11850H + RTX A2000 Win11 HQPlayer ► Topping HS02 ► 2x iFi iSilencer ► SMSL D300 ► DIY headamp DHA1 ► HiFiMan HE-500
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I was hoping the U10 didn't use USB power. I have been experimenting with batteries too. The USB cable I am using does have the 5v or ground wires. The convertor runs off a LiFeP04 9.9v battery plugged directly to it, no regulation or protection; just raw chemical power. I did move to SOtM mBPS-d2s for safety and convenience, but felt something was lost (esp with better clocks in).

Dahlquist DQ-10 Speakers DQ-LP1 crossover 2 DW-1 Subs

Dynaco Mk III Mains - Rotel 991 Subs

Wyred W4S Pre Gustard X10 DAC

SOtM dx-USB-HD reclocked SOtMmBPS-d2s

Intel Thin-mini ITX

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Yes, both U10 and X10 ... all devices with AC power plug.

But the most of USB converters and USB DACs use power from the USB cable for the USB receiver part.

I know only few examples of USB converters/DACs which don't depend on USB power.

i7 11850H + RTX A2000 Win11 HQPlayer ► Topping HS02 ► 2x iFi iSilencer ► SMSL D300 ► DIY headamp DHA1 ► HiFiMan HE-500
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