Article: Computer Audiophile Pocket Server C.A.P.S. v3 Topanga

[ted_b]

My biggest issue with it (other than Diogenes never hearing it with audiophile music intentions) is that it looks to be not at all expandable; i.e how would one hang a SOtM card on it? Chris didn't throw together his design, he put some thought into it. I'm not sure Diogenes read his objectives intro. The Barebones fits like one out of many objectives, fails the rest.

[Jammrock]

But do you think that we still can play video, at least 1080p, on it?

 

The Atom N2800 is rated for full 1080p playback as the Intel GMA3600 (rebadged PowerVR SGX 545) has a hardware video decoder. Most GPUs do these days. Just don't do anything else crazy on the computer at the same time.

[rdsu]

The Atom N2800 is rated for full 1080p playback as the Intel GMA3600 (rebadged PowerVR SGX 545) has a hardware video decoder. Most GPUs do these days. Just don't do anything else crazy on the computer at the same time.

I was referring to play 1080p with Windows 8 x64 driver, because Intel doesn't have a x64 driver for this graphic card...

[The Computer Audiophile]

The Lagoon design has been published -> Computer Audiophile - Computer Audiophile Pocket Server C.A.P.S. v3 Lagoon

[rdsu]

Do you have some preference, on this mobo, for USB port? Yellow (high current/fast charging) or black (normal)?

[gmgraves]

Interesting Chris. It certainly seems to be a decent solution. I have been toying with the idea buying an i5 Mac Mini for a music server and the price would be about $100 more that your CAP V3. I realize that JRiver is not available for Mac (but I understand that it is forthcoming) but there are other solutions for this platform. What is your opinion of the current i5-based Mini as a music server, and what would you recommend for a video solution so that one could see what one is doing (the idea of a huge 15-in LCD display seems awkward to me One of those 7" displays such as those used for in-car video seems like the perfect solution, but I've never seen one with an HDMI input). The current i5 Mini has USB-3 and an IR interface that allows the sever to be operated without a keyboard using the current Mac remote wand. Thanks, in advance for your comments. Oh, yes, and Merry Christmas to you and yours.

[Paul R]

Just a quick note - you can easily load Windows on any current model Mac. It is fully supported by Apple, and Apple also provides Windows drivers for all the hardware in the Macs, wireless cards, network cards, video, IR, etc. JRMC sounds great playing under Windows 7 on a Mac, and of course, it is great having the choice.

 

J. River says February for the first cut of the MacOS version of JRMC.

 

-Paul

 

 

Interesting Chris. It certainly seems to be a decent solution. I have been toying with the idea buying an i5 Mac Mini for a music server and the price would be about $100 more that your CAP V3. I realize that JRiver is not available for Mac (but I understand that it is forthcoming) but there are other solutions for this platform. What is your opinion of the current i5-based Mini as a music server, and what would you recommend for a video solution so that one could see what one is doing (the idea of a huge 15-in LCD display seems awkward to me One of those 7" displays such as those used for in-car video seems like the perfect solution, but I've never seen one with an HDMI input). The current i5 Mini has USB-3 and an IR interface that allows the sever to be operated without a keyboard using the current Mac remote wand. Thanks, in advance for your comments. Oh, yes, and Merry Christmas to you and yours.

[gmgraves]

If you are talking about the "Topanga" build, IMHO, it's sort of an exercise in futility. First of all, as Eloise mentions, Apple only supports the Intel processors that it actually uses in it's products. That means, for "Mountain Lion" (OSX v.10.8.x), the

'i' series (i3, and i5 at this point) and the 4-core and 6-core Xenon line. Also, Mac OS is extremely sensitive to other fuctions such as the video board, the audio chip-set and even things like USB chips, and FireWire controllers. That means that before using the components that Chris recommends (assuming that you COULD get the Atom to work, which I seriously doubt) you need to check to see if Apple uses the same chip sets in one or more of their computers. If you stray from those chips, you will find that after building the thing and installing OSX, that some functions simply won't work.

 

A couple of years ago when Apple was still using the Core 2 Duo chip for most of their non-towers (OSX v.10.6.x), I carefully built (using all of the Apple "approved" stuff that I knew about) a PC that I figured would work fine with OSX. Everything worked except USB (and you know how useful that is!). No matter what I did, the USB ports wouldn't work with OSX. When I rebooted into Win 7, the USB worked perfectly. I still don't know exactly why. The motherboard was an Intel, and I understand that Apple uses Intel chip-sets for most of the computer's functionality, why they would use a proprietary USB interface chip I have no idea. Two websites that are helpful, if you really want to try this are:

 

tonymacx86 Blog: iBoot + MultiBeast: Install Mac OS X on any Intel-based PC

 

and

 

Install Snow Leopard on Your Hackintosh PC, No Hacking Required

 

On the other hand, since Chris' "Topanga" build costs out at just under $500 if you do it the way he did it, I suspect that you would be better off buying a used last-gen Mac Mini off-of E-bay or similar and either an AudioQuest DragonFly DAC or, if you already have a DAC but no asynchronous USB input, a V-Link from Musical Fidelity (which is excellent and right now, Audio Advisor is selling it for under $130). Believe me, you'll have less problems and if you buy smart, it won't cost much more than the "Topanga" and it will be much faster than the Atom and it will work right out of the box - first time! That's not to say that the "Topanga" isn't a good solution. it is likely an excellent solution. But for Windows, not for OSX.

[rdsu]

The normal and high current USB ports, on this board, share the same USB bus?

[rdsu]

The normal and high current USB ports, on this board, share the same USB bus?

Some help?

[maelob]

Chris, apologize for my ignorance, but would love to see some instructions on how to do the initial software installation and set up to start listening to some music.

[krikor]

I understand the "don't bring a gun to a knife fight" philosophy regarding the 32-bit vs. 64-bit Windows 8. But is there any potential detriment to running the 64-bit version as opposed to the 32-bit? (Yes I know about the driver limitations, but beyond that any pitfall?) Thanks.

[Malik]

Can someone explain to me why this set up would result in better sound than a $500 laptop running J River? I get that it is a sole purpose built computer, but is that the only difference? Also, (and this is a serious noobie question), can this be run headless and controlled via JRemote on my iPad, or does it need to be hooked up to a monitor, keyboard and mouse? Thank you for any insight that can be provided.

[ejn1]

Can someone explain to me why this set up would result in better sound than a $500 laptop running J River? I get that it is a sole purpose built computer, but is that the only difference? Also, (and this is a serious noobie question), can this be run headless and controlled via JRemote on my iPad, or does it need to be hooked up to a monitor, keyboard and mouse? Thank you for any insight that can be provided.

 

I run my headless and controlled via Ipad. Make sure you get a software that includes Remote Desktop (eg Windows 8 PRO). Quality is linked to low system power, dedicated resources to keep electrical noise down (eg dedicated USB card, no other USB devices, no Wifi, no electrically noisy periphiales like DVD-roms etc, laptop screen, fans, etc)...

[ejn1]

I understand the "don't bring a gun to a knife fight" philosophy regarding the 32-bit vs. 64-bit Windows 8. But is there any potential detriment to running the 64-bit version as opposed to the 32-bit? (Yes I know about the driver limitations, but beyond that any pitfall?) Thanks.

 

With the DN2800mt board, the video sucks with the 64bit version...

[ted_b]

With the DN2800mt board, the video sucks with the 64bit version...

 

I run 64 bit Windows (see my CAPS V2+ thread; same computer really) and find the video graphics fine (I only use it for maintenance via VNC or remote desktop; it's a headless music server )

[ejn1]

I run 64 bit Windows (see my CAPS V2+ thread; same computer really) and find the video graphics fine (I only use it for maintenance via VNC or remote desktop; it's a headless music server )

 

Thanks Ted... I should not be so harsh... It works fine in a headless music server and that's how I'm using it also. But if you were going to run it with a monitor, I would be very unhappy with the quality of the 64 bit graphics driver. I hear the 32 bit is much better but I havent seen it myself.

[andrewd01]

Chris some questions about all the CAPS machines, apologies if it has come up before.

 

1. Do they have WiFi antennae built in?

2. If not is it OK to connect to WiFi via an external WiFi adapter (like Netgear) for the purpose of desktop sharing?

3. I understand that you recommend storing all music files on a NAS. Does this need to be hard-wired to the CAPS or is WiFi connection OK?

4. Is external DC 12V for all the different CAPS models? How many amps are needed? Just thinking about which power supply from Paul Hynes or Teddy Pardo would work best.

 

Thanks

[Marc Chamberland]

" I haven't tried video playback as that is outside the scope of the CAPS designs

Using room correction or an add-on application like JPlay will likely require a much faster processor. "

 

hi,

did some one tried video play back with topanga ? dvd, bluray...

and what about jplay ?

thank you

marc

[regnaD kciN]

1. Do they have WiFi antennae built in?

2. If not is it OK to connect to WiFi via an external WiFi adapter (like Netgear) for the purpose of desktop sharing?

3. I understand that you recommend storing all music files on a NAS. Does this need to be hard-wired to the CAPS or is WiFi connection OK?

 

Agreed -- those are key questions. Due to various logistical issues in my home, having to keep any of the C.A.P.S. units wired to the network router is an absolute non-starter. Since the mainboard doesn't come with WiFi, would adding an adapter for that work, or is a wired connection the only solution?

 

I also notice from the product specs on the mainboard that it has S/PDIF on an internal header. Is there a workable way to get that out to an external digital out connecton (expansion card?) so that I could connect this directly to my receiver's digital-in port and its internal DAC, at least initially, instead of having to add a USB DAC?

 

Finally, I second the request for more information on setting up the OS, software, etc.

[mattpitts74]

I have been getting some great advice here and its a real pleasure to see a forum that is generally really helpful and polite compared to other on the net.

 

I have just build a caps v3 server based Chris's design exactly, its the topanga with the samsung sata drive instead of the msata and I'm waiting for the PPA usb card to arrive. I'm also just using the cheap external power supply as described by Chris.

 

I have tweaked Windows 7 Pro running with j river, connected to a NAD D 3020 hybrid Amp/DACNAD D 3020 review from the experts at whathifi.com

 

My music is sitting on a synology which is all hardwired through my router, It sounds OK to me, but I'm no expert yet :-) but slowly getting there.

 

One thing i have noticed though is when I start the system I'm getting a kind of electrical static notice coming through the speakers for maybe 5 seconds and then it stops. I was wondering what this could be??

 

Is it:

The PSU?

The cheap and excessively long sata cables that came with the motherboard that I've used

 

I'm not sure what other sources of EMI there would be in this type of setup?

 

I was also wondering if I would have been better using the msata drive, I assume this must cut down EMI as there are less cables?

 

Any thoughts from people with more knowledge than me are much appreciated, as I'm such a NOOB to this

[JDutko]

I really enjoy all the information you have on your website, thanks. I basic question regarding where a file resides while it is playing (rendering). Do you copy files from your NAS to the CAPS solid state drive each time you want to listen to them, or, do they "stream" directly from your NAS through the CAPS and then to the DAC/preamp? I guess I am a bit confused about how long an individual file resides on the CAPS hard drive. Thanks for helping to clarify this idea for me.

[JDutko]

I have been getting some great advice here and its a real pleasure to see a forum that is generally really helpful and polite compared to other on the net.

 

I have just build a caps v3 server based Chris's design exactly, its the topanga with the samsung sata drive instead of the msata and I'm waiting for the PPA usb card to arrive. I'm also just using the cheap external power supply as described by Chris.

 

I have tweaked Windows 7 Pro running with j river, connected to a NAD D 3020 hybrid Amp/DACNAD D 3020 review from the experts at whathifi.com

 

My music is sitting on a synology which is all hardwired through my router, It sounds OK to me, but I'm no expert yet :-) but slowly getting there.

 

One thing i have noticed though is when I start the system I'm getting a kind of electrical static notice coming through the speakers for maybe 5 seconds and then it stops. I was wondering what this could be??

 

Is it:

The PSU?

The cheap and excessively long sata cables that came with the motherboard that I've used

 

I'm not sure what other sources of EMI there would be in this type of setup?

 

I was also wondering if I would have been better using the msata drive, I assume this must cut down EMI as there are less cables?

 

Any thoughts from people with more knowledge than me are much appreciated, as I'm such a NOOB to this

 

Hi mattpitts74,

 

I too seem to have some static with the D 3020. It's a bit different in that it does not stop after 5 seconds. It is a very quiet, "ticking" noise that I can hear in the tweeters. Have you tried unplugging everything but the speakers from your D 3020? Do you still hear the static? With my D 3020 plugged into its own wall outlet with only speakers connected I can still can hear the ticking. I'm still trying to figure out what is causing it. So far, I have a second D 3020 from the shop - it also ticks. NAD provided me with a firmware upgrade, they are on version 2.5 now, but that did not remedy the ticking sound either.

 

I have been contemplating the same setup you are running. For now I have the D 3020 connected to Sonos via coax which is harvesting files from a really lousy iomega NAS. Any chance you have tried to connect your Synology directly to the D 3020 via USB and use Audio Station to play files?