Building a DIY Music Server

[MarcelNL]

Let me just say that after a night of playing the sound blew me away tis morning, CPU temp with high res streaming (24bit) is already below 50'C.

 

I am struggling with my i2S interlink though, does anyone know an RJ 45 connector for high end? (I have the telegartners but those do not work well enough for soldering on my own proprietary wires, or rather to keep everything in place)

Had to battle high volume noise this morning, troubleshooting the attanuator and DAC lead me to the I2S interlink, and it yet again failed...with almost no movement, I left the gear playing last night.

 

[NewOldman]

I know one, but that's a secret,
 i have found after many years of trial and error and investigation,,,,,,,

[jacky5555]

I'm looking for an audiophile-grade inlet with fuse and switch for the dedicated LPS of server. Anyone pls recommend some names?

 

 

 

[genvirt]

Furutech had IEC inlet but without switch button....

https://www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi?search_field=IEC inlet

[MarcelNL]

Viborg, pure copper https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/fiches-secteur-connecteurs-iec/viborg-vi-06bc-embase-iec-c14-cuivre-pur-red-copper-o6mm-p-12745.html

[MarcelNL]

Just came back from the Berlin Audio Meet, where my prototype met these beauties

[Nenon]

4 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

Just came back from the Berlin Audio Meet, where my prototype met these beauties

 

Nice horns. For some reason I can't picture them with digital source and imagine a nice vinyl-based source with them :).

How did your server sound there? 

I am excited for you yo try ULPS + Taiko ATX power supply... 

[Nenon]

I've heard from behind the scenes that Taiko's CNC machine is up and running and is or will be CNC-ing the first prototype of the DIY chassis. Just letting people know this project is not dead (like it happened with two other manufactures on other threads here). I am hoping to see a prototype later this month. 🤞

 

With the current shortage of computer hardware, I started digging in my closet to see what I have, and I found a couple extra PCIe Optane 900P 280GB drives. I bought them last year and forgot about them :). Those are the drives that the Extreme uses for the OS. That is a part of the DIY recipe. Unfortunately these are end of life and very difficult to find. But ping me on PM if you need one. I can easily sell them on eBay for a lot more money, but planning to give them to people reading this forum for the price I paid. 

 

[Downtheline]

@Nenon any luck getting the noratel transformers? I seem to have everything else I need for the v2 supply. 

[Nenon]

1 minute ago, Downtheline said:

@Nenon any luck getting the noratel transformers? I seem to have everything else I need for the v2 supply. 

 

They should arrive this month as well! 🤞

[MarcelNL]

The horns actually sounded better after we tuned in their placement in the room, and removed the slant plates. Despite everything Vinyl made them sound as if something was broken, those present that dared admit it (which was like 40 out 50 present, I was the newbie as some hardliners are a bit dogmatic) were baffled to hear digital at this level and told me they favored the server by far.

 

Several attendees asked if could not build a server for them, I'm not interested but took that as the highest praise in that tempel of Vinyl. 

 

I heard a stunning mono element and a phono stage using a new tube amp principle that when combined probably could have given the server a run for its money....that will happen next time, and then the PSU should help.

 

It was a big surprise to me that the overtones and 'colors' of instruments etc are represented better at home, my conclusion is that difference in approach in the Euronor Junior with the two 15inch woofers used until 500Hz and the horn doing the rest versus my approach using fullrange speakers with a tweeter @7-8K makes a big difference.

 

 

 

 

[MarcelNL]

hahaha, turns out I was listening to a Tedeska silver coil MC, thinking it was made by an enthusiast DIYer.... turns out it is among the best of best...now I am sure I want to do a head to head someday :-)

 

[MarcelNL]

On the subject of grounding, do you connect the heatsink to the ground of the MB/PSU (EPS)?

 

 

[Nenon]

On 10/11/2021 at 2:06 PM, MarcelNL said:

On the subject of grounding, do you connect the heatsink to the ground of the MB/PSU (EPS)?

 

I don't. 

[MarcelNL]

Thanks Nenon!

 

I found that the heatsink itself seemed to 'quiver' and measuring I found a ground potential of like 5V, mind you, my MB and Heatsink sit on insulating wood, and most cases likely have a connection between heatsink and MB mounting points with ground connection.(just throught of that).

 

Sounds slightly more relaxed when grounded.

[Exocer]

Hi All,

I have V3 up and running again with the Saligny rectifier. My system has never sounded so good. I have also inserted my very first audiophile fuse, the QSA Light Blue ($71, thanks for the tip @BCRich) and I am happy to report that this was an eye opening experience, in a good way. For those building out these designs, I would highly recommend going the extra mile and using a good fuse.

 

At this moment, its fair to say V3 has exceeded my expectations and is worth switching to, even with a single CPU rig. 

 

Cheers!

-Rob

[elan120]

29 minutes ago, Exocer said:

I have V3 up and running again with the Saligny rectifier.

Any difference you recall compare to Taiko rectifier?

[Exocer]

29 minutes ago, elan120 said:

Any difference you recall compare to Taiko rectifier?

Good question.

 

I waited about 1.5 months for the Saligny so it would be difficult to notice the differences if all else were equal. I don't think the comparison is all that fair though because I never got to use the Taiko rectifier in the chassis with vibration control. The transformer and caps were literally sitting on the floor then. Now, everything is mounted in a chassis with Herbie's tenderfeet. The transformer is also on wood blocks ( nothing fancy but likely effective) as well. TBH, what I have now sounds quite a bit better than what I remember back then. This is prior to upgrading to a better fuse too.

[MarcelNL]

Fuses definitily make a difference, the best souding one is no fuse ;-)

My CLCLC PSU is waiting for the transformer and one MLytic, if only the transformer had already been delivered I'd swap in the Mundorf later. When we compared my prototype against a supposedly great Vinylplayer with a sophisticated arm and a new type of cartridge, through the same amp and speakers that latter sounded as if something was broken... so I can only hold my breath for the V3 PSU....3-4 weeks more waiting,

 

[Exocer]

Hi All,

Several people inquired about the CAD draft I put together for the unregulated LPS rear panel. Please find it attached. This will fit V3 (and V2 of course), with ALL Mundorf HC 22,000uF caps. A narrower chassis may work if one chooses to go with 2x47,000uF+1x22,000uF Mundorf HC(for the last bank of caps in V3). I did not test this. If there is interest in a narrower version I can post that as well.

 

One other member on this forum has a different version I created for a connector he preferred over the Amphenol I chose. I will let him determine if he would like to share that with the masses.

 

This attached file will fit the largest Slimline 3U chassis:

• The Furutech FI-09 IEC inlet of your choice (It will sit behind the rear panel).
• Standard Bussman Fuse holder for 6x30 sized large fuse (I went with this one though: https://www.revolutionpower.com/acme-audio-labs-cj-15a-silver-cryo-agc-fuse-holder)
• This two-pin Amphenol connector (I have not tried it yet but I plan to in the coming weeks): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/amphenol/ms3106a20-23p/?qs=NQA6WNcZJ%2bcmvKLa33%2bSZA%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD - don't be alarmed, the photo on mouser is wrong.
• Vibration control: I like what the Herbies Tenderfeet are doing here. It'll be worth investing in vibration control here.

 

Instructions

1. Add your Slimline 3U to the cart and pick the largest size.

2. Add this to your cart as well: https://diyaudiostore.com/products/cnc-cutting-of-2mm-3mm-and-4mm-aluminum-panels with the .dwg file i've attached here.

3. Wait a bit to receive your chassis with CNC work completed.

 

Happy DIYing all!

 

PS - I have had zero issues lining up the screws, the drafting is actually 100% accurate. I MAY make some modifications if the community agrees upon another DC output/IEC Inlet etc.

 

NOTE: This chassis is massive. I do not have rackspace for it..

 

Cheers,

-Rob

 

Rear panel customizations - Taiko DC-ATXv3.dwg

[Exocer]

Also, dont forget the bottom plate!

 

Cheers,

-Rob

[dminches]

On 10/15/2021 at 7:54 PM, Exocer said:

Hi All,

I have V3 up and running again with the Saligny rectifier. My system has never sounded so good. I have also inserted my very first audiophile fuse, the QSA Light Blue ($71, thanks for the tip @BCRich) and I am happy to report that this was an eye opening experience, in a good way. For those building out these designs, I would highly recommend going the extra mile and using a good fuse.

 

At this moment, its fair to say V3 has exceeded my expectations and is worth switching to, even with a single CPU rig. 

 

Cheers!

-Rob

What fuse value are you using for v3?

 

[Exocer]

10 minutes ago, dminches said:

What fuse value are you using for v3?

 

Large 5A slow blow.

[dminches]

1 minute ago, Exocer said:

Large 5A slow blow.

 

250V I assume?

 

[Exocer]

10 minutes ago, dminches said:

 

250V I assume?

 

Correct!