Keces DC-116 Linear PSU Quick Review

[tboooe]

The Keces DC-116 linear power supply was delivered today. I ordered the single output 19V, 6A version. It took 3 days to arrive from Taiwan. The build quality is excellent. The improvement with this linear PSU is subtle yet also noticeable. The music is definitely more clear, allowing me to hear more nuance and detail which helps to improve the perceived separation between instruments. The biggest improvement is with highs. They seem to linger a little longer and have a more defined leading edge. Overall, for $310 shipped, I would highly recommend this product. I have paid far more to get less improvement. My only complaint is that the supplied DC cable does not fit my music server pc DC input very well. Comparing the barrel of the stock plug with the one supplied with the Keces I noticed that the inner diameter of the center pin opening was a bit larger with the Keces plug. I am able to power up my pc but sometimes it requires me to fiddle with the plug. I plan on going to Radioshack tomorrow and pick up another plug to replace the Keces one.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

Here are some pics:

 

 

[Superdad]

Glad your are enjoying your new power supply.

 

Sounds like the cord you got has a 5.5mm O.D./2.5mm I.D. plug, whereas the DC input jack on your computer is a 5.5/2.1mm. That is fairly common. Wish all the manufacturers would settle on one size! Easy to fix as you say.

 

Was there some savings to ordering it with only the single output? Odd that they did not put in some sort of blocking plug to cover the unused jack opening.

Does it still have switches inside to select output voltage? (5V, 12V, 19V appear to be the usual choices)

 

How about some pics of the inside?

 

Regards,

ALEX

[tboooe]

Alex, there was no cost savings with a single output. I just felt that 19v,3a could be too low for my upcoming Zuma build which I intend to use this same power supply with.

 

I will open up the unit and take pics later tonight. Are you certain there are switches inside to change output voltage or are you asking if there are?

[Superdad]

Alex, there was no cost savings with a single output. I just felt that 19v,3a could be too low for my upcoming Zuma build which I intend to use this same power supply with.

 

What indication did you have of 3A? 19V/6A is silkscreened onto the back of the stock unit. So having just one does not change that.

 

BTW, what motherboard are you using in your Zuma build? The specs for the Intel DH77EB show it taking 12V.

 

I will open up the unit and take pics later tonight. Are you certain there are switches inside to change output voltage or are you asking if there are?

 

I recalled that from a while back, and just Googled for some images. This one does show switches: http://www.keces.com.tw/2_product/R1205003/albertdc116_003.jpg , but the 2 toggle switches (for the 2 outputs) can't be for voltage selection. There are trim pots next to the switches, but that also seems unlikely for wide-range voltage adjustment. Besides, the LED indicators on the back change color to indicate which voltage is set.

Did it come with a manual?

[sandyk]

It would be nice to also have separate +12V and +5V outputs in order to supply more sensitive areas of the project.

Other than that, it looks a very cost effective way for those who are unable to DIY a similar specified PSU.

Kind Regards

Alex

 

P.S.

If there are any "tamper proof" screws etc. I would give it a good workout before opening it up.

I look forward to seeing internal photos too.

[tboooe]

What indication did you have of 3A? 19V/6A is silkscreened onto the back of the stock unit. So having just one does not change that.

 

BTW, what motherboard are you using in your Zuma build? The specs for the Intel DH77EB show it taking 12V.

 

 

 

I recalled that from a while back, and just Googled for some images. This one does show switches: http://www.keces.com.tw/2_product/R1205003/albertdc116_003.jpg , but the 2 toggle switches (for the 2 outputs) can't be for voltage selection. There are trim pots next to the switches, but that also seems unlikely for wide-range voltage adjustment. Besides, the LED indicators on the back change color to indicate which voltage is set.

Did it come with a manual?

 

From speaking with the dealer, 19V, 3A would have been a special order. 19V, 6A is a standard output for single output.

 

For the Zuma build I intend to use a wide input PSU, like this. It supposedly takes an input range 12-25V while supplying 12V to the mobo.

 

No manual included unfortunately.

 

It would be nice to also have separate +12V and +5V outputs in order to supply more sensitive areas of the project.

Other than that, it looks a very cost effective way for those who are unable to DIY a similar specified PSU.

Kind Regards

Alex

 

P.S.

If there are any "tamper proof" screws etc. I would give it a good workout before opening it up.

I look forward to seeing internal photos too.

 

I agree. I intend to get another Keces with dual output to power the USB and perhaps the SSD.

 

It doesnt look like the screws are tamper proof so I will be opening it up shortly!

 

BTW, after doing some research it looks like the center pin diameter of my music server pc is 1.5mm!! WTF! Doesnt look like its going to be an easy trip to Radioshack to replace the connector. I am going to have to purchase another ac adapter for the Acer and cut off the connector. Ugh!

[tboooe]

Interesting, the Keces draws about 0.5A more powering my music server than the stock dc power supply. I wonder why?

[sandyk]

Interesting, the Keces draws about 0.5A more powering my music server than the stock dc power supply. I wonder why?

 

Think Ohms law. (grin)

 

That would suggest that the new PSU's output voltage is a little higher under load.

[tboooe]

Think Ohms law. (grin)

 

That would suggest that the new PSU's output voltage is a little higher under load.

LOL! If I remembered Ohm's law (V=I*R i think!), I wouldnt have asked the question!

 

So far so good with the Keces. It doenst get hot at all and is totally silent. I am going to put on of my "Audiophile" AC cables on it to see what happens. Also, I wonder if anyone has tried making a higher quality DC cable???

[Superdad]

What is the wire gauge of the stock DC cable? I would suggest that you make a shielded one (only tie the shield at PS end) with a twisted pair of #16 awg.--and keep it short (under 3 feet). While I am a fan of silver-plated copper for audio signal wires, I think such is silly for power cable

(Other than the fact that silver-oxide conducts and copper-oxide does not; so plated wire absolutely has greater longevity--if air gets under the insulation its resistance won't increase over time. It does happen: I have been to peoples' houses where they had old Monster Cable speaker wire--the fat, clear insulated stuff--and you could see that the entire outside layer of strands were green, even in the middle of a 10-foot run.

Still, that is more a problem for audio cable where you have skin-effect issues with high frequencies. Tin-plated copper is fine.

I guess the challenge will be fitting two 16awg conductors--plus a shield at one end--into the shells of DC barrel plugs. Might end up either drilling out the shell opening or tossing them and using shrink tubing.

[tranz]

What is the wire gauge of the stock DC cable? I would suggest that you make a shielded one (only tie the shield at PS end) with a twisted pair of #16 awg.--and keep it short (under 3 feet). While I am a fan of silver-plated copper for audio signal wires, I think such is silly for power cable.

 

I second that, and is what I ended up doing. The cable that came with it was ill-fitting. A good option is to go to an electrician store and pick up a bit of 2/18 (2 wires at 18 AWG - gauge) or 2/16 (although soldering this to the plug will be difficult) twisted and shielded like a Carol brand or similar (cheap!), and you can use the drain wire that touches the shield foil and connect it on one side to the ground.

 

Also buy a bit of small gauge 1 wire to be able to tie/solder the drain wire to a ground connection. You can buy a 3 pronged plug and just connect the drain wire to the ground plug, and plug it into your outlet. This provides the path of least resistance for any junk that is attracted to the shield.

 

Buy a few extra DC plugs as you will likely destroy a few during the soldering. I ended up having issues with the weight of the cable pulling on the plug and breaking a few.

 

Get some heat shrink tubing to cover up the soldered connection. Also get a 0.99 cent ferrite bead (magnetic clamp) for the DC cable. As you can see, the one that came with the Keces came with a ferrite bead attached as well.

 

Before connecting, just use a little volt meter to check everything is soldered and connected properly.

 

Cheers.

[Audio_ELF]

Interesting, the Keces draws about 0.5A more powering my music server than the stock dc power supply. I wonder why?

By 0.5A higher, is that measured at the (mains) power input? If so, surely that's just the result of the lower efficiency of a LPSU vs the previous SMPS?

 

Eloise

[sandyk]

By 0.5A higher, is that measured at the (mains) power input? If so, surely that's just the result of the lower efficiency of a LPSU vs the previous SMPS?

 

Eloise

 

Hi Eloise

While your answer is perfectly reasonable, very few members would have the capability to measure the mains power input, and without special gear such as using clamps around the cable, it is fraught with danger.

Kind Regards

Alex

[Audio_ELF]

While your answer is perfectly reasonable, very few members would have the capability to measure the mains power input, and without special gear such as using clamps around the cable, it is fraught with danger.

I may be making assumptions here... But I believe something like the Kill-A-Watt power meter will display current usage.

 

Eloise

[sandyk]

Eloise

Yes, there are a few items like this currently available, although I doubt that many members would have them.

I don't know how accurate they are , either. Most available seem to be a bit gimmicky, and more designed for large appliances power consumption.

Regards

Alex

 

e.g. Mains Power Meter - Jaycar Electronics

[Audio_ELF]

there are a few items like this currently available, although I doubt that many members would have them.

I don't know how accurate they are , either. Most available seem to be a bit gimmicky, and more designed for large appliances power consumption.

As I was saying I was making assumption... My thinking being that someone who didn't remember ohms law is unlikely to have a AVO meter to hand; nor know how to use one to measure current; and was perhaps more likely to have a plug-in "power usage meter" from the local hardware shop... (My appologises if my assumptions offended the original poster :-)

 

As I say just a guess but perhaps tboooe would enlighten is...

 

Eloise

[tboooe]

No offense taken at all! Its been many moons since my electrical engineering courses! I was basing my original comment on the power meter on the front of my PS Audio P3 AC Regenerator. Using the stock power supply for my music pc, it shows an average draw of 24 Watts. Using the Keces it shows 34 Watts. I was making the assumption that the voltage remained steady at 19V for both power supplies, then the amp draw must have increased. See I do know Ohm's law though I am not entirely sure I applied appropriately here...I guess there is a reason why I changed majors from electrical to mechanical engineering!

[Audio_ELF]

No offense taken at all! Its been many moons since my electrical engineering courses! I was basing my original comment on the power meter on the front of my PS Audio P3 AC Regenerator. Using the stock power supply for my music pc, it shows an average draw of 24 Watts. Using the Keces it shows 34 Watts. I was making the assumption that the voltage remained steady at 19V for both power supplies, then the amp draw must have increased. See I do know Ohm's law though I am not entirely sure I applied appropriately here...I guess there is a reason why I changed majors from electrical to mechanical engineering!

I would suggest that the meter on the PS Audio Regenerator is saying it's supplying 24w or 34w 110v so 200mA vs 300mA. The current draw of the motherboard can only be measured at the DC output using (if I recall my physics A Level) an ammeter in series with the motherboard. This shouldn't change though may depending on the exact voltage output by the PSU.

 

Eloise

[Cebolla]

The current draw of the motherboard can only be measured at the DC output using (if I recall my physics A Level) an ammeter in series with the motherboard.

O Level / GCSE surely. I can't believe my antics with that absurd oversized 19th century looking Physics lab kit took place in 6th form!

[tranz]

A simple, user friendly, no EE degree required, means of checking power draw is using this Belkin Insight

 

Amazon.com : Belkin Conserve Insight Energy-Use Monitor : Electronics

[One and a half]

Most kW meters (even reference class jobs) need to take into account not perfect sine waves but a mess like this:

 

 

Getting the measurement of the voltage is no mean feat, since the reading you obtain for kW (Volts x Amps) is dependent on the sampling time of that voltage waveform.

 

Like audio sampling, if you only sample at 20 Samples/s it will measure differently than 4000 Samples/s, and so will your kW readings.

 

If the power supply is more reactive than say a wall wart, you would draw more current. This is not necessarily a bad thing for audio, since the power we are looking at is small anyway, it means the transformer in the PSU is doing a lot less work than designed for. Less heat, less noise is always good.

[shum3s]

Tbooe, I appreciate your mini review on the power supply. I am using two Caps 3 Lagoon in dual setup and was wondering if the Keces DC-116 Linear PSU outputting 12 v @ 3 x2 - 3 amps would have enough juice to power both? Or will I need higher amperage (6) for each Lagoon? Thanks, Sam

[tboooe]

Shum3s, with my PC which also uses an Atom processor, it never exceeds 24w and mine has a fan in it. My feeling is that the Keces can handle both of your Lagoons but it will be close.

 

By the way, very nice dedicated room. Room treatments are on my list in the near future.

[shum3s]

Hey thanks for the kind compliment on the room, it has been a labour of passion and fun.

I went ahead and ordered the power supply with two 12 v output. I will keep my fingers cross that it will work.

Sam

[Mike Gillespie]

TBOOOE:

 

Thanks so much for posting your impressions. I've got to get power for 4 rails for a modified Zuma build: mobo, CPU, SSD, and USB board.

 

Do you think Keces can configure one unit like yours to do that? Seems as if I would need 2 units minimum.

 

I was hoping to get at least 120 watts for the mobo and 120 watts for the CPU as per Paul Pang's recommendations to me -- he's at

SHOPPING AREA

 

BTW: What power cord are you using for the Keces? I'd love to hear you say you got great sound with a stock power cord.

 

Thanks.