Pokey77 Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 I'm looking to upgrade a computer power strip (PS) that powers my router, several SMPS, computer, etc. I'm currently using a $25 power strip bought 8-10 years ago. Now that I'm streaming music from the router that is powered by this PS, I'd like a replacement that will hopefully bring a sound quality bump and do a better job than what I have now. What are you using to do similar duty in your systems? Budget is relatively open but don't really want to spend for a power conditioner. Seems it may be overkill in this position? The reason for me posting here is that I am a happy ER user. Digital: 1Gbs Fiber to house, then to endpoint > looks like copper from endpoint to router (all stock from ATT) > Router to "A" side is Monoprice Cat 5e Monoprice > ER "B" side 3' Supra 8+ to wall (ER has SR4T LPS) > 15-20' Cat 5e run to audio room > 3' Supra 8+ to Aurender N10. System: TAD Evolution system: M2500 amp, C2000 pre/DAC, E-1 speakers. Aurender N10, ER, SR4T LPS. Link to comment
ericuco Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 The Wiremold power strips are decent and lots of models (# of outlets, switch vs no switch, cord length) in metal cases. Not necessarily cheap but not terribly expensive. Eric Audio System Link to comment
JohnSwenson Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 The Tripp Lite aluminum strips are my favorite. They came in many different models, I have 3 of the 16 outlet ones around the lab and several of the 8 outlet ones in various places in the house. They come with mounting brackets that make them easy to mount wherever you want. This is one I just got to give you an idea: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3GZVN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have one of these behind the TV in the family room to connect the TV, dish receiver, AVR, sub amp, blue ray player, chromecast, oh and even an old VHS VCR. This particular one is going on the back of the financial desk for laptop, display, two printers, postage scale and Ethernet switch. John S. Link to comment
Jeremy Anderson Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 @JohnSwenson could you elaborate a bit on why you favor them? (I’m just wondering if your endorsement is of a technical / measured performance nature, or just a “looks good, built sturdy, nice grip, decent price” kind of recommendation. ) Link to comment
asdf1000 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 4 hours ago, JohnSwenson said: This is one I just got to give you an idea: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3GZVN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hi John S I thought you preferred the simple power strips without surge protection? But that one seems to have surge protection? Link to comment
Popular Post JohnSwenson Posted August 11, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted August 11, 2020 17 hours ago, Jeremy Anderson said: @JohnSwenson could you elaborate a bit on why you favor them? (I’m just wondering if your endorsement is of a technical / measured performance nature, or just a “looks good, built sturdy, nice grip, decent price” kind of recommendation. ) I haven't actually measured them but I have taken one apart and carefully looked at them. They actually use socket "blocks" with heavy duty wires in between. The socket blocks are built very well with high quality contacts. Most power strips do not have anywhere near as good contacts as these. No they are not as good as a $500 "audiophile" power strip, but they are close and cost WAY less. Yep they are built very well, the feel nice, they look nice, the sockets are spread far enough apart that you can get wall-warts next to each other and they come with a very nice mounting system, but the big thing is the much better than usual electrical contacts. John S. Superdad and Jeremy Anderson 1 1 Link to comment
JohnSwenson Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 13 hours ago, asdf1000 said: Hi John S I thought you preferred the simple power strips without surge protection? But that one seems to have surge protection? For audio equipment I prefer them without the surge suppression, but I bought this one for the computers, printers etc., for that I go with the surge suppression. John S. asdf1000 1 Link to comment
zerung Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 On 8/11/2020 at 9:40 AM, JohnSwenson said: I haven't actually measured them but I have taken one apart and carefully looked at them. They actually use socket "blocks" with heavy duty wires in between. The socket blocks are built very well with high quality contacts. Most power strips do not have anywhere near as good contacts as these. No they are not as good as a $500 "audiophile" power strip, but they are close and cost WAY less. John S. Many local Audiophile recommend the British Plugs and socket for the simple fact that the contact points have so much more real estate. As opposed to the Euro or US ones. The Doug Scroder cabling method also recommends more thicker or doubling of cables. High end cables also have thicker gauge + better materials. But the plug remains the same. Is this a bottle neck? @JohnSwenson could I ask your view on this? Thanks Qnap NAS (LPS) >UA ETHER REGEN (BG7TBL Master Clock) > Grimm MU1 > Mola Mola Tambaqui /Meridian 808.3> Wavac EC300B >Tannoy Canterbury SE HP Rig ++ >Woo WES/ > Stax SR-009, Audeze LCD2 Link to comment
Popular Post JohnSwenson Posted August 12, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted August 12, 2020 27 minutes ago, zerung said: Many local Audiophile recommend the British Plugs and socket for the simple fact that the contact points have so much more real estate. As opposed to the Euro or US ones. The Doug Scroder cabling method also recommends more thicker or doubling of cables. High end cables also have thicker gauge + better materials. But the plug remains the same. Is this a bottle neck? @JohnSwenson could I ask your view on this? Thanks I have some opinions on this but not much in the realm of measurements, primarily because nobody really knows what measurements correlate "better sound". 1: geometry of the cable is the most important part. Star quad is by far the best. Unfortunately there are only a couple power cords on the market that use star quad geometry. 2: the dielectric actually on the wires, NOT so much the outer jacket. Low dielectric absorption is good. Teflon, polypropylene, some formulations of silicone rubber etc. 3: socket. Most of the differences between connections occur in the socket, NOT the plug, The socket determines how much actual surface area is in contact with the plug. 4: surface of the socket or plug. For the surface plating of power plugs or sockets my favorite is silver. Gold is the absolute worst for power connections. Gold is usually very thin plating and when the plug goes in, small arcs occur which vaporize the thin gold plating, leaving the electrical contact with a very poor connection of the redeposited vaporized layer under the gold. Usually NOT a good contact. Leave gold for SIGNAL connections not power connections. A good thick silver plating will easily withstand the micro-arcs. Yes they oxidize, but the oxides are conductive, usually get wiped away when connecting and don't suffer the infamous "diode affect" of copper oxides. All in all I think think silver plating is by far the best compromise for power connections. 5: the plug actually has little to do with it other than the contact plating. 6: gauge of the wire. Note that wire gauge is at the bottom of the list. Of course you have to get it big enough to handle the load of what you are powering. But beyond that getting the higher things on the list done well will make a much bigger improvement than just making wire bigger. What can happen is that frequently when you go to a thicker wire some of the other things also get better so may think that the thicker wire is what "did the trick" when it was really some of the other things. For example for a preamp going from 14 AWG to 12 AWG is not going to do anything for sound, UNLESS the cable with the thicker wire makes improvements in some of the other things. That same change might well make a small change in a 500 watt amp, every thing else being equal. 7: wire metal type. For power cords I think this is one of the least important parts. Go with a good grade annealed copper and you are about as good as you can get. There IS a side affect that metal alloy can have: Copper can interact with the dielectric around it causing oxides and "diode affect" which can cause problems. Fortunately the "good" dielectrics mentioned above generally do not have this interaction. So switching to silver wire with cheap dielectric (say PVC) WILL significantly improve sound, but sticking with copper and going with a good dielectric will sound better and cost less. I know I'm dissing a lot of sacred cows with this, but this is what I actually think is the most important. If you REALLY want to do power well go with Neutric Powercons, Build your own "power boxes" with them, make your own polypropylene insulated star quad cables with Powercons and put them in your equipment. That is about as good as it gets. John S. asdf1000, EMMM, Superdad and 4 others 4 3 Link to comment
zerung Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 Yes! Some sacred cows have been harmed in your presentation. Thank you for your hypothesis, which is valid always. However to me the Doug Scroder cabling did help. Even in the pre to power amp connection. I am happy to consider this to be a placebo effect - which suits me fine Qnap NAS (LPS) >UA ETHER REGEN (BG7TBL Master Clock) > Grimm MU1 > Mola Mola Tambaqui /Meridian 808.3> Wavac EC300B >Tannoy Canterbury SE HP Rig ++ >Woo WES/ > Stax SR-009, Audeze LCD2 Link to comment
Pokey77 Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 I appreciate the two recommendations so far. Anyone else have a recommendation? Digital: 1Gbs Fiber to house, then to endpoint > looks like copper from endpoint to router (all stock from ATT) > Router to "A" side is Monoprice Cat 5e Monoprice > ER "B" side 3' Supra 8+ to wall (ER has SR4T LPS) > 15-20' Cat 5e run to audio room > 3' Supra 8+ to Aurender N10. System: TAD Evolution system: M2500 amp, C2000 pre/DAC, E-1 speakers. Aurender N10, ER, SR4T LPS. Link to comment
Pokey77 Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 @JohnSwenson As always, really appreciate your insight. Digital: 1Gbs Fiber to house, then to endpoint > looks like copper from endpoint to router (all stock from ATT) > Router to "A" side is Monoprice Cat 5e Monoprice > ER "B" side 3' Supra 8+ to wall (ER has SR4T LPS) > 15-20' Cat 5e run to audio room > 3' Supra 8+ to Aurender N10. System: TAD Evolution system: M2500 amp, C2000 pre/DAC, E-1 speakers. Aurender N10, ER, SR4T LPS. Link to comment
jamesg11 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 Consonance pw-3 power boards - these are the model without filter, & are used immediately downstream of an Elgar iso transformer. macmini M1>ethernet / elgar iso tran(2.5kVa, .0005pfd)>consonance pw-3 boards>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360)>etherRegen(js-2)>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360) >ultraRendu (clones lpsu>lps1.2)>curious regen link>rme adi-2 dac(js-2)>cawsey cables>naquadria sp2 passive pre> 1.naquadria lucien mkII.5 power>elac fs249be + elac 4pi plus.2> 2.perreaux9000b(mods)>2x naquadria 12” passive subs. Link to comment
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