Building a DIY Music Server

[BCRich]

This from the newer batch…..I was fine up until the issue with the Large Inner Plate. I’m not equipped to tap new holes on the edge of a very thin plate. I’m at a stand still now; I emailed Ton.

[BCRich]

3 hours ago, Nenon said:

48G (12 x 4G)

 

I had the same problem initially. But then I realized I had the bottom plate upside down (took me good 10-15 minutes scratching my head). That may not be your case but it's worth checking - are the feet holes on the bottom countersink? If they are, you might have done the same thing as me... if that's the case, flip the bottom plate, and some of the other pieces may come into place too. 

Both sides were the same. Ton confirmed there were some that were not properly drilled.

[BCRich]

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know the spacing of the Mounting Hole’s on the Taiko Rectifier? A cut sheet maybe.

Thanks….Mike

[BCRich]

 

1 hour ago, baconbrain said:

 

Mike, you can reach out to Taiko directly under the address [email protected]

 

My guess would be that they can provide you with the info and are normally pretty quick in responding.

Thanks, I managed to accomplish what I needed to do.

[BCRich]

1 hour ago, drjimwillie said:

Thank you both for the great advice. 
 

I have been thinking about tapping holes into the Taiko DIY Chassis from the day I received it. The first thing I wanted to do, was put it together, to see what it looks like. Then I realized that I will probably have to mount things to the sides and bottom, and I realized that a fully assembled case would be very hard to put onto my drill press. Especially with how big and heavy that case is. I had to drill some new holes in my server to get the Taiko ATX to fit, and balancing it on the drill press was a bit precarious and scary. So the Taiko case is currently still in the bubble wrap. (except for the parts I needed to pull out to inspect if “the bracket” was correctly drilled and tapped.) soon it will be unwrapped, and I will lay out all the parts to see how they need to be attached.  I cannot imagine that I will be attaching those monster Martin Mug chokes to the side wall or the big Taiko CAP, but you never know. Or, I may need to rig a second level for the Taiko ATX. I would like to be able to fit in copper plates for shielding, but with good planning, I may be able to use that to my advantage. I would like to think it’s not going to be as tight as I am imagining it, but considering we have not seen any successful builds with those giant chokes, it will probably be an interesting puzzle. 
 

The advice on tapping threads is super useful. It made me remember when I was in high school in the 70s, we had shop classes, Electrical, small engines, automotive, air conditioning and refrigeration, and a machine shop. The mention of the cutting oil brought me back to cutting inside and outside threads in cold roll steel.  (When the teacher wasn’t looking, we would make pipes for smoking. I had one pipe that had two big chambers, and could be broken down into three smaller pipes. Probably not a good idea to be smoking through cold, rolled steel, but we were young and dumb. Ha ha.)

It is interesting, all of the accumulated knowledge we have. It helps us to be “handy”. I tell people being handy is a curse. My wife says she is a construction widow.
Gavin, thank you for the mention of the cutting compound, I had never heard of it, I looked it up and now I know about cutting paste. It looks a lot less messy and then cutting oil. 
 

I will post pictures as I progress, to get advice.

 

Thank you, Will 

I highly suggest you assemble the entire chassis before you start to add components. I had major issues with things lining up. Especially the back plate.

Good Luck and cheers!

Mike

[BCRich]

11 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

Do you have any advice for assembling the Chassis, please?

 

I remember some issues because people installed things upside down. Some holes are threaded, some holes are not threaded….

I know that planning things three dimensionality will be much easier with it assembled.

 

I am worried about parts that will be overly difficult to disassemble, if they are connected to multiple other parts. 

 

(thanks for being a community where I can ask an Uh-Duh question)😁

Hi,

The big issues for me were the Faceplate being uneven (Side panel flipped the wrong way apparently). And getting the rear panel attached. Not all the screw holes lined up. Also had to retap the bottom holes of the side panels. Make sure the L Brackets attach correctly too. Hole for transformer bolt was not drilled properly. Was a very frustrating project. Turned out great for the most part in the end.

Mike

edit: things should come apart without a problem after the dry run. My mistake was I didn’t do a dry run.

[BCRich]

Morning All,

Looking for photos of the DIY Taiko with the Martin Mug Chokes installed, Nenon V3 ULPS.

Thanks….Mike

[BCRich]

Huge Thanks to @Exocer for making this happen! Now I just have to get over the Fractured Knee hurdle so I can work on it.

 

Gonna have to move things around to make this work.

[BCRich]

7 hours ago, BCRich said:

Gonna have to move things around to make this work.

This should work……

Have to drill a bunch of holes, may have wait on that. 

 

[BCRich]

12 minutes ago, Gavin1977 said:

That’s amazing that you managed to fit it in the chassis 

Thanks….Having the Sotm MB instead of a full size ATX certainly helped the cause. Made a template for the Chokes So they should be nice and solidly mounted.

[BCRich]

Mission accomplished…this is an insane upgrade that included the Martin Mug Chokes, a Saligny Power GaN and Mundorf SG cabling (24p,6p and 8p).

 

[BCRich]

1 hour ago, flowcharts said:

@BCRich how is the GaN rectifier?  Did you get a chance to compare it in isolation to whatever was previously in its place?

Hi, I honestly didn’t have an opportunity to do a direct comparison as my Taiko Rectifier wasn’t operating optimally.

I can tell you this I have no FOMO having put the Power GaN into play.

This was one of several changes so also hard to say how each are impacting the overall sonics. 

[BCRich]

2 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

My shielding came in today. It looks like I have a little bit of room to work in the Rectifier area.

@drjimwillie Hi Willie,

I would suggest you see if you have the room to turn both of the Martin Mug Chokes 180 degrees. That just might give you enough space to mount the Rectifier PCB on the side wall like I did in my build. I put the larger Duelund cap in between the side wall and the PCB; you will not have the ability to do that with that copper barrier. Not sure what other options you have.

Cheers,

Mike

[BCRich]

5 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

Hey Mike, 

Thank you for the suggestion. 

what do you mean, rotate the chokes 180°?

 

could you sketch it for me, please?

Place them like mine are….

[BCRich]

22 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

PS - i’m still not sure what you mean by rotate 180? That’s just turning them in half a circle, from my understanding.

Keep them where you have them just rotate them so they are facing the same way mine are.  It’s actually a 90 degree turn.

[BCRich]

You lose mounting space with the small side of the copper wall there. You might not be able to use my PCB with Power GaN. Maybe the Taiko and not installing the Cap on the Board. The Duelund is meant to be off to the side. You’ll have to fiddle around.

[BCRich]

56 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

you were saying to rotate them like that?

Yes, exactly.

[BCRich]

14 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

Then, I’m not sure whether the Rectifier location in scenario one or in scenario two is better? 

You might be able to mount the Rectifier in either of these 2 spots…

1. Being the Heat Sink Wall.

2. Being the small divider that the Transformer Wires pass through. 

[BCRich]

1 hour ago, RickyV said:

thanks, so you think it’s just user inexperience? I will email them to see what the problem is and maybe they can install it, good idea.

I watched a YouTube video doesn’t look difficult. A long time ago I installed a few cpu’s but they had the pins on cpu itself.

Both myself and @Exocer have the SoTM MB, no problem’s on our end.

Using an Intel i9900K CPU, install was no different than the Gigabyte MB used previously. Just gotta make sure it’s lined up properly.

[BCRich]

1 minute ago, Johnseye said:

 

Did you try Euphony on your Xeon server? I'm very curious to know how the SOtM build compares with the same OS. Not to mention your thoughts on Euphony with this build. I went through the same exercise using LTSC, then Euphony. I recently switched to Audiolinux a few months ago. I'm going to switch back to Euphony and see how the two compare again. 

 

What Taiko Roon guide are you referring to? 

@Johnseye @Exocer I’ll let Rob chime in as I have the SOtM MB as well but have not gone down this path as of yet. No intentions of doing a Dual CPU Build but I might try Windows at some point. Here is a link to the Taiko Roon setup guide:

https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/Taiko-Extreme-Roon-Settings_V5.x22069.pdf?v=9b7d173b068d

 

Cheers…Mike

[BCRich]

Definitely replace the CMOS Battery. 

[BCRich]

19 minutes ago, JackJohnson316 said:

On the Taiko website there is nothing listed under the “DIY” tab. Is Taiko going to continue selling their dc-atx? Anybody know? 

I just checked. The dc/atx, both Mundorf Caps and the Noratel were all there.