jesk Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 [*]Apogee Digital Ensemble [*]Apogee Rosetta 200 [*]Arcam rDAC [*]Atoll DAC-100 [*]Audio Research DAC7 [*]Aune USB DAC [*]Ayon Skylla [*]Azaly USB-DAC1 [*]B.M.C. DAC [*]Bel Canto DAC 2 [*]Benchmark DAC1 [*]Berkeley Audio Design Alpha DAC [*]Cambridge DacMagic [*]DANGEROUS MUSIC DAC-ST [*]DIGIDESIGN DIGI 003 [*]DIGIDESIGN Eleven [*]DIGIDESIGN MBOX 2 [*]Dugood DAC-3W [*]ECHO AUDIOFIRE 12 [*]ECHO AUDIOFIRE PRE8 [*]EDIROL FA-66 [*]ESI ESU 1808 [*]Eastern Electric Tube DAC [*]Emperical Audio Overdrive DAC [*]FOCUSRITE ISA 428 [*]FOCUSRITE LIQUID SAFFIRE 56 [*]FOCUSRITE SAFFIRE PRO 24 DSP [*]FOCUSRITE SAFFIRE PRO 40 [*]Furutech GT40 USB DAC [*]KONDO KSL-DAC [*]LAKE PEOPLE DAC C460 [*]LEXICON I·ONIX U82S [*]LINE6 TONEPORT UX8 [*]Lavry Black DA11 [*]Lavry DA10 [*]Lite Tube DAC DAC-60 [*]M-AUDIO FAST TRACK ULTRA [*]M-AUDIO FAST TRACK ULTRA 8R [*]M-AUDIO PROFIRE 2626 [*]METRIC HALO MOBILE I/O 2882 EXPANDED [*]MOTU 828 MKIII [*]MOTU 896 MKIII [*]MOTU TRAVELER MKIII [*]MOTU ULTRALITE MKIII HYBRID [*]MUTEC MC-4 [*]Monarchy M24 DAC [*]Music Hall dac25.3 [*]Musical Fidelity V-DAC [*]Mytek Stereo192 [*]Mytek Stereo96 [*]Mytek Studioclock192 CX [*]Naim DAC [*]Northstar DAC Extremo [*]Northstar DAC Model 192 MKII [*]Northstar USB dac32 [*]PHONIC FIREFLY 808 U [*]PRISM SOUND ORPHEUS [*]PS Audio Digital Link III DAC [*]Pacific Valve DAC 72 [*]Pacific Valve Musiland MD-10 [*]RME ADI 192 DD [*]RME ADI-2 [*]RME FIREFACE 400 [*]RME FIREFACE 800 [*]RME FIREFACE UC [*]ROLAND OCTA-CAPTURE [*]SONIC CORE A16 ULTRA [*]SONIFEX REDBOX RB-ADDA [*]STEINBERG MR816 CSX [*]STEINBERG MR816 X [*]Sakura Systems Progression DAC (Model 4705) [*]Sakura Systems Shigaraki DAC (Model 4715) [*]TC ELECTRONIC IMPACT TWIN [*]Tascam HD-P2 [*]The Neko Audio D-100 [*]Violectric DAC-V800 [*]WEISS DAC 202 [*]WEISS MEDEA [*]Wavelentgh Crimson USB DAC [*]Xindak D06 [*]Xindak DAC-5 [*]Xindak DAC-8 Link to comment
Flac2Dac Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 I'm sorry; what was the question? lol CD (CD)Lehner "This whole world, is wild at heart...and weird on top" - Lula Pace Fortune MAIN System- ALLO USBridge Signature> Denafrips ARES II> Audiolab 6000a> PMC Twenty-Five 21s Link to comment
Wavelength Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Jesk, What does cost and performance have to do with anything? Why not ask which one has the best performance? I mean so I make like 50 Crimson's a year. If I made a thousand of them it would mean I could make them a lot less expensive. But considering there is 4 custom hand wound in good old Philly audio transformers that make up the 35 pound main unit (and that is without power supply as that is separate) then it is pretty hard to sell at a lower cost. BTW... who are you? You know aliases are great for somethings, but for online forums and especially here it is kind of nice to at least sign your work. Thanks Gordon J. Gordon Rankin Wavelength Audio http://www.usbdacs.com/ http://www.wavelengthaudio.com/ http://www.guitar-engines.com/ Link to comment
audiozorro Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 approaches infinity. As the cost approaches infinity, the cost/performance ratio approaches zero. Perhaps you should just set your budget and buy any one of a number of recommended DACs. There is always the possibility that you may not like whatever DAC someone else recommends and whatever you buy your tastes may change. Fortunately many of the DAC vendors offer 30-45 day evaluations, there are also high-end audio storefront dealers, other audiophiles and high-end audio clubs so hopefully you will listen before buying. Link to comment
jesk Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 Dudes, if you dont understand the question then dont answer. Its rather simple. There are many attributes e.g. quality, price, featureset. Everyone has priorities and makes his own decission on them. This question is about that. Its about what would one choose as his individually best matching DAC when considering also the price. Link to comment
ted_b Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 n/t "We're all bozos on this bus"....F.T. My JRIver tutorial videos Actual JRIver tutorial MP4 video links My eleven yr old SACD Ripping Guide for PS3 (needs updating but still works) US Technical Advisor, NativeDSD.com Link to comment
indigo Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Jesk, I would hook up to the onboard DAC in your AV receiver and sit back and enjoy knowing you didn't spend a penny. With the money saved, buy a big crate of beer, after every bottle you drink the AV receiver DAC is going to sound better and better guaranteed! Either that or ask Charlie Sheen how he'd spend the money you've saved, either way you'll be glad you didn't blow it on a DAC you didn't need. Indigo Link to comment
audiozorro Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 In your long list of DACs, the price of any one is pretty well defined. The feature set is also fairly well defined. The only question is quality - build quality and sonic performance or quality - both of which are very hard to define and are usually opinions. In general, DACs that get several favorable reviews and numerous high consumer ratings are agreed to be excellent, but IMO you should always confirm that for yourself. I think two of the DACs you list are also on the CASH list. The DACs that provide me with the best performance for the price are not on your list. But if I had to choose, I would choose either of the DACs that are on both the CASH list and your list. So you now have my clear answer as well as my previous recommendations for buying or selecting a DAC for yourself. Link to comment
The Computer Audiophile Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Jesk - What is the purpose of asking the question posted in this thread? Honestly, your answer will help everyone. Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems Link to comment
indigo Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 The Chord QBD76 isn't on there, that's the one I eventually bought (to answer your question). Reasons I bought it are: 1. It sounds great (Chord have their own custom made chip instead of using off the shelf like Burr Brown etc). 2. It looks really cool if you're into bling! 3. It has Bluetooth. So, when absolute perfect listening isn't required I can bring up Spotify on my IPhone and stream it via bluetooth to the DAC (I don't know any others that do this). 4. It as a RAM buffer to remove jitter (seems to work) 5. It cost £3000 but if you're not too concerned about getting the absolute best sound, you can get all the above with slightly less superior sound from it's little sister, the Chordette GEM for a quarter of the price (~£700 I think). Link to comment
barrows Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 you are missing some on your list. I'll add a few, I am only considering computer ready DACs here: first, these two are price/performance leaders IMO: Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 Ayre QB-9 and the following is a little more money, but still not stupid expensive, and is a very interesting new DAC: Aesthetix Pandora OK, I am ready for you to make whatever criticisms you have in mind... SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers. ISOAcoustics Oreas footers. SONORE computer audio | opticalRendu | ultraRendu | microRendu | Signature Rendu SE | Accessories | Software | Link to comment
wgscott Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 As the cost approaches zero, the cost/performance ratio approaches infinity. As the cost approaches infinity, the cost/performance ratio approaches zero. Heh. Actually, as cost approaches zero, the performance/cost ratio approaches infinity. The cost/performance ratio approaches zero, since cost is in the numerator. Sorry to be so pedantic. Link to comment
jesk Posted October 28, 2010 Author Share Posted October 28, 2010 Burrows, thank you. All three look interesting, especially the W4S DAC-2 - I like the 2 Toslink RX-Ports. Link to comment
Erwin S Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 *Fully discrete output stages *XLR outputs *Volume control *Milled remote *Rack size width, 1RU height link: http://emotiva.com/xda1.shtm That should do the trick. Pay more and the law of diminishing returns applies. But a few percent of improvement (or 0,1% less distortion) can indeed be worth a tenfold investment. BTW, I heard of less than half the brands you listed... My apologies for not sticking to your list. Fully Balanced Differential Stereo: Jamo R909 < Emotiva XPA-1 < XLR < Emotiva XSP-1 < Weiss DAC2 < Oyaide d+ FW400/800 < iMac < Synology DS1815+ NAS Software: Amarra Symphony iRC, XLD, iTunes. Link to comment
bikemig Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Erwin: I'm waiting for your review of the Emotiva DAC when it is actually available before buying one! Miguel Macmini (as server)-> AE Express/SB Touch-> Dacmagic plus -> Outlaw RR2150 -> PSB Image T6 (dedicated 2 channel audio system) Macmini (via toslink)-> NAD T747 -> PSB Imagine B/SVS SB2000 subwoofer (home theater) Macbook Pro-> Peachtree idecco->PSB Imagine Minis, Energy ESW-M8 subwoofer, Beyerdynamic DT880 (home office) IMac->audioengine D1 dac->airmotiv 4 (work system) Link to comment
Erwin S Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Just bought a DeWALT screwdriver with 3 batteries for €299 + VAT. I did not read any reviews at all, but nonetheless I am 100% confident that I bought quality material! My XDA-1 is pre-ordered. Also 100% confidence here that it will be worth the money. Only question is how does it compare with DAC's costing a multiple amount. It will be Christmas before we know. Fully Balanced Differential Stereo: Jamo R909 < Emotiva XPA-1 < XLR < Emotiva XSP-1 < Weiss DAC2 < Oyaide d+ FW400/800 < iMac < Synology DS1815+ NAS Software: Amarra Symphony iRC, XLD, iTunes. Link to comment
4est Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 As someone who uses power tools for a living and has owned the better part of a dozen cordless drills, I am skeptical of the DeWalt line. Dewalt is a subsidiary of Black and Decker, formerly their professional line. Twenty years ago they started a big ad campaign and changed their color to yellow. I tried a couple of their tools back then. The cordless drill in particular was crap, and lasted less than a year before the motor burned out (I know a few others with similar results) whereas I have used Makitas or Hitachis that have outlasted their batteries a few times over. I feel the Emotiva may fall into the category as DeWalt. A little too much glitz for the price... Time will tell, I hope it sounds great! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Erwin S Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 ... Fully Balanced Differential Stereo: Jamo R909 < Emotiva XPA-1 < XLR < Emotiva XSP-1 < Weiss DAC2 < Oyaide d+ FW400/800 < iMac < Synology DS1815+ NAS Software: Amarra Symphony iRC, XLD, iTunes. Link to comment
The Computer Audiophile Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Hi Forrest - I didn't want to burst Erwin's bubble, but I was thinking the same thing about DeWalt. I've had great luck with Milwaukee tools. Please don't tell me I'm in the same boat :~| Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems Link to comment
Erwin S Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 You guys are killing me! Chris, can you check the PM I sent you, it's a rather urgent other matter. Fully Balanced Differential Stereo: Jamo R909 < Emotiva XPA-1 < XLR < Emotiva XSP-1 < Weiss DAC2 < Oyaide d+ FW400/800 < iMac < Synology DS1815+ NAS Software: Amarra Symphony iRC, XLD, iTunes. Link to comment
wgscott Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 My Black and Decker toaster delivers, but their chainsaws suck. I still like my Stihl way better. If Stihl made a DAC I would buy it based on the label. Link to comment
souptin Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 My Black & Decker cordless screwdriver now needs a recharge after just ten screws. Not even three months old and not heavily used. If they made a DAC it'd be burnt out long before anyone even had a chance to ask about burn-in. Link to comment
steve2701 Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 The single most important thing to me is what comes out of the speakers, the box up front could look like a pair of twenty year old socks for all I care (a box is easy to hide surely)if it was the cheapest - great, if it's the most expensive I could afford - then so be it - I would have to live with it for a while. I thought this was about how to produce great tunes, not 'featuresets' or has glamour become important suddenly? Link to comment
4est Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 It depends upon when and where you bought it. A lot of people do not realize that some of the professional brands have DIY grade tools that look just like the professional counterparts. Porter Cable for instance. I own about 10 of their 1 hp 690 routers. A very similar item is at the big box stores and it does not have replaceable bearings like the real 690s. Look at model #'s closely! As for Milwaukee, they used to make the best drills hands down. They were bought out by AEG who was purchased by Chicago Pnuematic 5-10yrs ago... Souptin: Burnt it out trying to burn it in... Sounds like a Jack Kerouac/Hunter Thompson sort of thing to me! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
audiozorro Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Pedantic - a narrow-minded teacher who insists on exact adherence to a set of arbitrary rules [Webster Definition]. I too could have been pedantic with the original poster but I believe I understood what he meant without rephrasing his wording. A pedantic person might say that it should not be a cost/benefit ratio, it is a benefit/cost ratio. Regardless, I believe everyone understands that for a cost/benefit (or a benefit/cost) analysis the "cost" goes in the denominator and the "benefit" goes in the numerator. More important however, the fallacy with the original request is the law of diminishing returns that is characteristic of all audio equipment. We spend more and more money to get increasingly smaller increments of sonic improvements. Thus really great sounding equipment provides lower ratios and hence most audiophiles could care less about ratios. Audiophiles are more concern with absolute or relative performance and absolute or relative cost. Now perhaps I am being pedantic. Link to comment
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