DIY DC power cables

[Jud]

6 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

 

So if I assume average buyer is 3 feet. And I charge close to $3, that should be around $15 including everything. 

Probably to expensive ?

 

I am more like 5' 10".

 

Edit: My apologies, I just love really bad jokes.   I think you have a good idea.

[Jud]

Couple of things:

 

- Search for Dayton Audio Silver Solder.  As much or more silver content as high priced brand, no lead, just fine to work with.

 

- Remember that mechanical connections (screw or especially crimp) if secure and done correctly are electrically *better* than solder.  For most electronics projects mechanical connections are impractical, but not this one.

[Jud]

3 hours ago, Middy said:

Arrgh God that wasn't nice especially with connectors that don't fit 6mm cable..  My soldering skills have gone down the pan and I need a better iron for home. Bad workman and tools ?

You can't do a nice job but an lesson in thinking it wouldn't be that hard.

Oyaide all the way....

I managed to get the wires in the hot pin by squashing the hot pin into an oval tinning the 2 wires together and filing....yes filing off the edges and jam then in.. 

 

Hats off too Michael and super dad /John......

 

The shrouds are plastic but still to small for 6mm after drilling them out....

 

No more well meaning advice from me..I need it myself...

?

 

I'll try the Screw ones next..

 

Apologies in advance -

 

You know what they say: when all else fails, screw it!

[Jud]

1 hour ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Standard vs. modified Elac plugs - opening now 8.5mm - big enough for almost any cable...:)

Cut with hacksaw, then careful filing with flat bastard and finished with wet & dry paper

 

Oh, flat bastard.

[Jud]

4 minutes ago, JohnSwenson said:

The open open shield at one end is NOT the right way to do it. The last time I tried to bring this up I was thrashed by a large number of very angry people (I had no idea shield connection was such an emotional topic for so many people) so I am loath to bring it up again. Part of the problem is that I have no test equipment  right now so I can't PROVE it.

 

At least for the DC cables an unshielded starquad  is better than one with improper shield.

 

I have to make up my mind whether I want to talk about proper shielding at this time or not.

 

John S.

 

You've already, as you said, talked about this, so I think interested people should use the search function to look up what you had to say about it.  I was frankly quite pleased to think that if (likely when) I decide to do this, I can happily use unshielded cable and not worry about connecting a shield at one or both ends.

[Jud]

1 hour ago, Middy said:

I cant find it.. can you link it please Jud.

Why I've been nagging Mr S but I didn't realise people threw a fit over a theory...

 

 

It'll be a while, Dave - going out shortly, may not get back in front of a keyboard until tomorrow.

[Jud]

6 hours ago, pl_svn said:

 

AQ. but... let's wait for John's approval of the "electrically charging" the shielding before jumping on them

 

Omega Mikro has battery-connected copper mesh surrounding their ribbons.

[Jud]

Should be dead easy to use the screw terminals with pin as a right angle connector, right?

[Jud]

1 hour ago, tboooe said:

Any advice on buying cable shielding? Should I get copper?  Tin copper?  Where is a good source to buy?

 

You can look at the DIY page on Omega Mikro's site.  The tricky part would be getting rid of insulation to connect the shield material.  You would want to call the principal, Ron Bauman, to ask about that.

[Jud]

3 hours ago, Middy said:

Ordered just for the effort of arranging this....Fantastic work..

Thank you

 @R1200CL

 

Only reason I'm not is because I need a right angle bend at the Regen end.  Have a few screw terminal plugs of the right size sitting around, so just need to order the cable and some heat shrink tubing.  (Hope that tubing can do a decent right angle.)

[Jud]

9 minutes ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Hi Jud - you'll need 19mm(3/4") min. Heatshrink to fit over the screw type 2.1mm plug - 3:1 shrink ratio would be best

I think you could heat it up to shrink while its straight then put the 90 deg. bend in it while the Heatshrink is still hot

Michael

 

 

Thanks, much appreciated.

[Jud]

1 hour ago, R1200CL said:

I think Ghent can do 90 degrees for those who ask. I did not knew Oyaide offered this version. 

 

Well that is welcome news.

[Jud]

1 hour ago, m5sime said:

I doubt you will hear any benefit from the Ghent one.. Your cable looks great. Nice and simple.. Maybe a spot of heat shrink to tidy it up :-)

 

Was going to say the same thing - a little bit o' black stuff in the right place and it will look downright sleek. 

 

By the way, do you feel as if you can tell any difference at all in the sound?

[Jud]

1 hour ago, Speedskater said:

What specs are good.

 

   For a power cable:

a] Large total conductor cross-section area.

b] High total capacitance.

 

  For a long XLR balanced analog interconnect cable.

a] Symmetry in construction.

b] Lower total capacitance is better.

c] Small total cross-section area is OK or better.

 

 

For the analog interconnect: Why is (c) true?