DIY DC power cables

[MikeyFresh]

1 hour ago, austinpop said:

 

Yup - I ordered 15ft. I lack sod-der-ing skills, so excited to try a DIY project using the screw terminals!

 

I too ordered the Canare 4S6 from Markertek, however I pan to solder using the Oyaide DC-2.1 plugs, hopefully they will actually fit as the wire's outer diameter is 1/4" and the inner diameter of the plug barrel is also 1/4", so really no room to spare.

 

I also have some of the cheapie Vanguard 2.1mm DC plugs I sourced some time ago on eBay, however they only have a 4mm barrel opening and so aren't even close to big enough for use with Canare 4S6, anyone considering those specific plugs needs to be using some pretty small wire.

[MikeyFresh]

22 hours ago, Middy said:

A great design

I think it could be scaled up to multi core and multiple wires. Canare quad.

4 self tapping heads and fitted into a body... no soldering..

I found these as a cheap alternative gold plated: 

 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/182139945637

 

fancy ones

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Gold-Plated-DC-Jack-5-5mm-2-1mm-2-5mm-DC-Power-Connector-plug-/132118795705?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150519202348%26meid%3D495d8ccbd74c4d3d83773c0e4724b253%26pid%3D100408%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D18%26sd%3D182139945637&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460

 

Sadly I don't think either of those DC plugs will work with Canare 4S6, unless I'm reading it wrong that cable has a 1/4" outer diameter, while each of the above plugs has a 4mm barrel opening or approximately .15" which is way too small for that wire.

 

I have some 4S6 on the way to me, and I already have some of the Vanguard DC plugs on hand so I can confirm all of this in a few days once I receive the wire shipment.

 

One could strip the outer jacketing off further up than normal and then use the plug's strain relief clamp directly on the actual conductor bundle, but that is decidedly less than optimal from a durability standpoint. I guess if you then added some heat shrink over the barrel/wire junction that should hold pretty well, and maybe even a turn or two of thin Teflon plumber's tape over the conductor bundle where it lines up with the plug clamp/strain relief would add back some durability too.

[MikeyFresh]

15 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

The rear opening of the Oyaide DC-2.1G plug shell is 6.45mm.   And yes, as I posted numerous times, the newer version is shortened and has the center pin and ground strap/strain relief too close together to be usable with big star-quad wire.  That's why I begged Oayide and had them put 1,000 of the original style back into production just for UpTone.  They will finally arrive in about 10 days, just before our current stock from last year runs out.

 

For DIY star-quad DC cables with big wire and barrel connectors, unless you are willing to solder a small pair pigtail and then solder-splice, there really are only two choices: The original Oyaide plugs or the screw terminal/barrel plugs.

Since I have the market cornered on the original Oyaide plugs (and please no e-mails asking me to sell 'em by the piece), I'd suggest people get comfortable with the screw terminal type.

 

My problem is the Oyaide DC-2.1 plugs I have were purchased some time ago, as in probably about 2 years ago, I don't know for sure if they are the old or the new version when the model number didn't change, I think they are the old version.

 

6.45 mm is approximately .253", so I think the Canare 4S6 wire will actually fit the barrel, but it remains to be seen whether I can then reliably solder the connections with the close proximity 20 gauge wire pairs.

 

I'll know soon.

 

 

[MikeyFresh]

6 hours ago, Middy said:

I think it's made in both USA and thier company home Japan... 

I thought they were French....?

 

I've never seen any Canare cable that wasn't labeled "Made in Japan", as far as I know all Canare wire products are made there.

 

But that doesn't mean they too aren't the victim of now common Chinese counterfeiting of Japanese products, just 'cause it says Canare and Made in Japan doesn't ensure the real McCoy, only buy from reputable sources to be certain of the authenticity.

 

Canare and Mogami are less likely to be knocked off however just due to the low asking price on the genuine article, the stuff is already cheap, it doesn't leave much room for a counterfeiter to actually produce and distribute a knock-off at any kind of big profit.

 

The high-end wire brands are a much more attractive target to counterfeiters in that regard.

 

 

[MikeyFresh]

Markertek with fast efficient service (always the case with them in my experience), I have the Canare 4S6 cable in-hand today, and just eyeballing it this indeed appears will be a tight squeeze with the Oyaide DC-2.1 plugs.

I'll do a little test fitting tonight but probably won't get around to actually making a cable until this coming weekend.

[MikeyFresh]

On 4/24/2017 at 2:51 PM, Superdad said:

 

Your plugs are absolutely the original style if you bought them more that about 6 months ago.

 

Indeed they are, just did a Canare 4S6 test fit tonight and it looks like this project is a "go" for this weekend:

The 4S6 is very flexible and has a soft supple outer jacket, this will make a nice DC cable that isn't so stiff that it fights how you want to dress it or puts strain on the input jack.

[MikeyFresh]

11 hours ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

http://www.audiophonics.fr/en/connecteurs-jack/elecaudio-dc-21g-gold-plated-connector-jack-dc-5521mm-p-9822.html

 

These look so nice and appear to be of a similar quality to the Oyaide plugs at a lower cost, however I just checked to see what Audiophonics would charge for shipping a small packet to the U.S. and unfortunately it's 22 Euros!

 

Maybe someday there will be interest to arrange a group buy to help spread that shipping cost, but as it stands now I can't pay 22 Euros for a small La Poste air mail packet, the French postal system must be hurting even far worse than the USPS if those rates are any indication.

[MikeyFresh]

5 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

 

I tried to register as a dealer on their site, but my valid VAT number was not acceped.

Maybe someone in the US, or in another EU country can test.

then a groupbuy should be easy.

 

It seems these are only sold in France ?

 

Yes it appears they are only sold in France, my searches failed to turn up any other sources.

[MikeyFresh]

50 minutes ago, gstew said:

Mourip,

 

On solders, Wonder Solder has been my go-to solder since it came out in the 80s (on something like my 7th or 8th roll now just for my DIY projects). Not only did I notice a sonic difference compared to the generic Radio Shack (RIP) stuff, but it was easier to work with and made better joints. 

 

The latest version is not quite as good from a usability perspective, but better sonically.

 

I haven't spent much time comparing different solders, but did try the Mundorf Silver/Gold solder several years back. I thought it was a bit better than the Wonder Solder, but much harder to use and making what I considered was a good joint was challenging. I've not tried a recent roll, it may be different today.

 

I am quite sure that others work as well and suspect the right 'non-audiophile' solder may work as well and sound as good. BUT I don't have as much DIY time as I need already, so I stick with the tried and true and more solder comparisons are not happening soon.

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

Great point about the usability perspective, which to me brings up the comparison of solder containing lead vs. the lead-free variety.

 

Manufacturers are forced to use lead-free solder these days with RoHS regulations, and I guess if any of us were trying to do our little part to be good stewards of the planet moving forward we'd also use lead-free solder on all projects moving forward.

 

However... I find the usability or flowing and wetting of something like WBT-0800 (contains lead) to be utterly fantastic compared to any solder I've used that was lead-free. Simply put, it's just easier to use and at a lower iron temperature to boot, super important when trying to use a cheapie or low-powered iron that doesn't really get that hot. So I echo the sentiment of @Daudio in terms of WBT-0800, want fuss free workability and a solid reliable solder joint? Use WBT-0800.

 

And not to suggest a leaded formulation is the only important aspect, solders such as WBT, Wonder, and Cardas all seem to have a superior flux formulation, again making the job easier to get right without fuss or the use of any additional flux other than what is in the solder itself. 

 

That said, I've decided I need to end my long love relationship with the WBT-0800 and/or Cardas Quad Eutectic sooner than later due to the lead content. 

 

For this DIY project I'll turn to one of two lead-free solders I have on hand, either the Mundorf Supreme which I've used in the past (and agree with @gstew that it's somewhat harder to use than something like Wonder), or Oyaide SS-47 which is a new addition to my kit that I've never used before. 

 

I'm leaning towards giving the Oyaide SS-47 a try to make this cable an all-Japanese affair through and through, and to see how the flowing and workability is with their formulation, the only one out there to my knowledge claiming use of 4N purity tin.

 

But the Mundorf Supreme is also tough to ignore for this given it does contain a small amount of copper like Cardas Quad Eutectic does, and has the highest silver content I'm aware of at 9.5% (is that why it's a bit of a PIA to use though?).

 

EDIT: the Dayton high-silver content solder recommended above by @Jud is very good stuff according to a manufacturer friend of mine in NJ whose opinion I absolutely trust over 2 decades of association with him. 

 

[MikeyFresh]

17 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

If you scrobble up this thread you can see that I already bookmarked a binocular magnifyer almost identical to yours! ? I wish I had the eyes of a teenager, but unfortunately both clean swiped reading glasses and binocular magnifyer is needed if I want to solder those new style Oyiade. 

 

I personally use Cardas silver solder with great results (when I succeed)! ?

 

 

I need a magnifier! I once had 20/15 vision, a VERY long time ago. Now even my reading glasses barely cut it anymore.

 

With everything seemingly under control at the office, and Friday being a 76° day in NY after nearly 2 weeks of rain and clouds, I took a half day and among other chores such as yard work to clear time on the weekend, I will build my DIY cable.

 

I pulled out the kit and decided to try the Oyaide SS-47 solder along with a brand new tip on my Hakko 936.

 

I know the Cardas and WBT solder are outstanding, and I also know the Mundorf is kind of a PIA by direct comparison, lets see how the SS-47 does in an all-Japanese build with Canare 4S6 and Oyaide DC-2.1 plugs, RoHS compliant.

[MikeyFresh]

After the tedium of cutting the lawn, trimming bushes, and then taking a shower, I've managed to construct, test, and install a DC cable made from Canare 4S6, Oyaide DC-2.1 plugs, and Oyaide SS-47 solder.

 

A quick note on that solder, while I did think perhaps it was a little bit easier to work wth than the Mundorf Supreme lead-free solder, that ain't exactly sayin' much. The SS-47 was also a PIA and maybe the only real improvement was due to the brand new tip I used. Raging hot iron and all other tricks of the trade, and maybe I'm just plain spoiled by the ease and workability of WBT-0800 or Cardas Quad Eutectic, or maybe lead-free solder just sucks.

 

The solder joints:

 

Tests ok (hopefully it stays that way with my slightly shaky confidence in having used lead-free solder):

 

The finished product ready for installation between the UpTone LPS-1 and Sonore microRendu:

 

I made this one the same length as the one UpTone includes in the package with the LPS-1, but I have more connectors and will make another that is much shorter to see if I can discern any difference between the two sonically. Right now the one I just made is powered up and burning-in (if there is any such thing with this type of cable).

[MikeyFresh]

1 hour ago, Daudio said:

 

I advise setting up your connection so that you are not holding anything that gets hot !

That way you: don't burn your fingers; the joints are mechanically sound, you won't move the joint while it's cooling and crystallize the grain structure; you have both hands free for iron and solder (or to steady the iron).

This may take a combination of cleaning, wrapping, crimping, 3rd Hand clamps, vises, weights, shims, tensioning the wires a bit, whatever... Use your creativity and whats at hand.

Well that, and the time to set up up properly. But after that, the soldering itself is simple, quick, and usually results in a fine solder joint, so well worth the effort IMO.

 

Soldering is a skill, yes, but one that's readily learned and practiced, using the right tools and procedures. Just like most things

 

 

 

+1 on the above, I drove myself crazy until acquiring the following "cheats":

 

GRS BenchMate:

PanaVise 381:

DIY was suddenly much easier with the right tools, and they've since gotten good use over the years.

 

[MikeyFresh]

43 minutes ago, tboooe said:

I assume those are the original, larger Oyaide 2.1mm plugs?

 

That is correct, those are the original version of the DC-2.1 plugs

 

[MikeyFresh]

1 hour ago, Daudio said:

And I have been using one-end grounded, shielded, star-quad config, Mogami 2534, DIY interconnect cables for a looong time now. Not that my analog source was that challenging, but it was a best practice from that time. So I'm still very curious about the theory, measurements, and/or listening experiences around this issue.

 

 

I'm not trying to answer for John S. in any way, but what you are describing above with W2534 and an analog interconnect cable is a different thing.

 

So while I agree it would be interesting to know the theory behind why this is not the best way to do a DC cable, John S. did specifically state in his last post :  "At least for the DC cables an unshielded starquad is better than one with improper shield."

 

I also concur with @Jud that this good news for me as I neither have to try to source shielded cable nor be concerned with connecting it at one end only and then marking the cable's directionality, it's easier not to have to bother with any of that.

 

[MikeyFresh]

6 hours ago, Daudio said:

 

Yes, I know, and am curious partly as to the why of the difference between applications.

 

That, and I made an external LPSU cable for my UTA MMK equipped Mac Mini, from that same W2534*, in a star-quad config and, yes, one-end shield grounding. So I'm curious on that score too !

 

BTW, the Mogami Microphone cable works wonderfully with the Oyaide barrel connector. No problem soldering the paired wires, and the jacket slips freely through the back of the cover. The two paired 24 gauge conductors, result in only about a total 21 gauge capacity, but this is not an arc welder. Is a heavier gauge necessary ? Or more importantly, audible ? I don't know, but would love to find out. In the meantime I'm happy with my cable, except that is, for the recent cloud over the shielding technique

 

Here is a pix of my 12vdc cable for my Mini music server:

 

 

* I still have about 60' of that stuff left !

 

 

Very nice looking cable!

 

I too have a bunch of W2534 I could use for this application, and while the aggregate 21 gauge conductors should be ok up to 1.2 amps, I decided to just go unshielded and ordered some of the 4S6 instead, as I managed to worry myself that the X-PE insulation on the microphone cable wasn't necessarily intended for use in higher current applications like a speaker cable would be.

 

Are those worries unfounded? Probably.

[MikeyFresh]

On 4/21/2017 at 4:16 PM, tedwoods said:

High quality diy plugs and wire from the parallel universe of the guitar world:

1. https://www.3monkeysamps.com/collections/all/products/new-product

2. https://www.3monkeysamps.com/collections/all/products/3-monkeys-solderless-cable

They are solderless too...

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

I inquired with 3 Monkeys about the wire they use with these solder-less plugs, it is a 16 gauge coax that is only .110" in diameter.

 

I decided to order their sampler packet that includes two 2.1mm DC connectors, and a 1 foot piece of wire for $13.95 (includes U.S. shipping) itself a good price, but also subject to a very generous full credit applied towards a future larger "kit" order, at which point this sampler becomes free.

 

Even though I have already built a 4S6 cable with the old style Oyaide plugs and have enough plugs and wire for 2 more, I thought I'd take a look at these as another option depending on the application. 

 

If nothing else I'll wire my nephew's Pedaltrain with them.

[MikeyFresh]

44 minutes ago, RichB said:

I've tried my own hand at making a DIY  cable using a custom spec Cardas wire (best way to describe it as being coaxial like in design - 16Ga Cardas enameled stranded. No fun to solder to in the 2.5mm Oyaide plugs I bought) - definitely not a star quad design :-O :-)  I know this wire is probably not optimal for this application, but I thought It does not hurt to give it a try.

 

Problem is that I am without Uptone LPS-1 at the moment to try it with my microRendu so I can't say how it sounds/works just yet.

 

I hate to say it after all of your nice work on that cable (did you have to use a solder pot to melt Litz enamel off the wire?), but those 2.5mm plugs are the wrong size for the LPS-1 and microRendu, you need the 2.1mm plugs.

[MikeyFresh]

15 hours ago, watercourse said:

 

If I can do it, you can too. of course, everything was easier when lead was around. I also wonder how much higher my IQ would be?

 

Lead is still around, you can still buy new rolls of WBT-0800, or Cardas Quad Eutectic lead bearing solder. It's fantastic stuff and far easier to work with than any lead-free variant I've ever tried.

 

I'm sure your IQ was unaffected unless you were licking your fingers while soldering, as vaporization of lead occurs only at a super high temperature. The fumes are just flux burning off, not that you'd want to breath very much of that either though (you definitely don't).

 

[MikeyFresh]

44 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

I don't know the correct English term or word. Norwegian is "strekkavlaster" it means basically how the plugs hold on to the cable and how pull forces is distributed. 

 

I believe you mean strain relief (in English).

 

Well, at least I see you helped yourself to a beer (or 3?) to ease the situation?

 

Nice cable, perseverance pays off!

[MikeyFresh]

On 12/24/2018 at 3:53 PM, Nenon said:

Has anybody tried the VH Audio V-Quad Cu21/Cu24 cable? I wonder how it compares with the Canare Star Quad cable suggested here for a DC cable? It looks like a good alternative. Much more expensive, but I don't need more than a foot.

 

Could be a very interesting comparison, very different from either the Canare or Gotham cables in that there is no integral shielding at all, and the OCC conductors are solid core not stranded, with foamed/cellular insulator that has an extremely low dielectric constant of less than 1.5.

[MikeyFresh]

1 hour ago, ken6217 said:

Ditto for me. Can anyone advise the "best sounding" DC cable that gives a warmer, fuller, presentation? Thanks.

 

No one can do that, really, that's just not a thing.

 

Even if they had the exact same set of partnering equipment you do, it would still be a subjective evaluation.

[MikeyFresh]

1 minute ago, ken6217 said:

 

Gnats a pretty uninformed statement. 

 

It's not, but I meant no harm, it's just reality.

 

In terms of an informed statement (or not), I've both made my own DC cables using gray jacketed Canare 4S6 and Oyaide DC-2.1G plugs, and also bought both the Ghent JSSG version and Ghent 4S6G (OFC) JSSG360 version as well.

 

I've even got a length of the Gotham star quad wire on hand, though I've yet to actually decide on what to actually do with it.

 

So I have several points of comparison, but I'd never offer someone else concrete advice on how that would sound in their particular system because I don't have that same system, nor their same ears, and there are no absolutes in terms of perceived sound quality that apply across the board with regard to DC cables.

[MikeyFresh]

10 minutes ago, ken6217 said:

I just received my cable from Ghent. Am I supposed to remove or leave on the plastic piece that is on the barrel of the connector? Thanks.

 

Those are actually 3 different silicon O rings, meant as spacers, because not every 2.1/2.5mm jack has the same insertion depth to fully seat the plug.

 

Generally you can just leave them as is, unless you find the jack on your equipment is deeper than normal, in which case you can remove one or more of the O rings, as that will allow the plug to seat deeper in the jack.

[MikeyFresh]

I see that Parts Connexion in Canada is now offering a decent looking DC plug for DIY cable making, introductory price is $8.40 each (regular price $ 11.25 each). 

 

No details on the maximum diameter cable it will accept, I assume it is gold plated brass, who knows if the carbon fiber is real or faux: