wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 My speakers come with these foam insert thingies that you have the option of (I can't type this with a straight face) inserting into the rear opening of the speaker. Allegedly this modulates the bass response. (I cynically believed they designed the speakers sub-optimally (pun-intended), and added this as a cheap and cheezy fix. Anyway, in the course of experimentation, I managed to push one of these things all the way in, and it has fallen into the inner chamber. Is there a safe way to extract it? Link to comment
old_bassist Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Drivers get blown from time to time and it's usually not too difficult to remove one. Can you remove the woofer and then take a look around inside the cabinet for the missing thingie? Cheers, Ross Toshiba Satellite P300 laptop--Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit--M2TECH hiFace USB-S/PDIF interface-->coaxial output cable--> MacBook Pro--Sierra--optical output cable--> Raspberry Pi 2--Pixel--USB output cable--> Simaudio MOON 100D DAC (USB, coaxial and optical connections in use)--Yamaha RX-V640 receiver --Grant Fidelity Tube DAC-09 (with NOS Raytheon 5670)--used as bypassable vacuum tube preamp stage--Topping TP60 stereo power amplifier--one pi bass reflex speakers--homebuilt--plans from Wayne at pispeakers.com --QSC model 5.1 stereo power amplifier--ACI Rage 12" subwoofer in homebuilt sealed 2 ft^3 enclosure --Denon AH-A100 headphones Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 This looks like it has a huge potential for turning a small problem into a huge one. The screw heads are non-standard and the speakers are still under warranty, so I am a bit reluctant to do this. With my luck, I would apply to little or too much torque to the woofer reassembling it and ruin the sound and/or the speaker itself. Maybe I will just leave it in there and get a new one. Link to comment
4est Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 You might ought to try getting a tool for the drivers regardless. Typically these screws will need to be tightened once a year. In your locale it may not be as often as mine, but the drivers need to be seated well onto the baffle board. From the photos only, it looks to be an Allen (hex) head. It is really quite simple. Use a hand tool, not a power tool and it will be straight forward. An Allen wrench is about a buck, a set of them $7. The foam is a common adjustment device. Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 I think it is a torx T5, which I have somewhere... Link to comment
The Computer Audiophile Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hi wgscott - Did you get them at Century Stereo? I'm pretty sure they've seen this issue more than a few times and can tell you the safest method of dealing with this. P.S. I love the self-deprecating tone. It's not seen too often around Internet forums :~) Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Yeah, that is where I got them. I owe them a visit anyway... PS: It is easy when you have as many opportunities present themselves as I do... Link to comment
4est Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 A T-5 is pretty small- something that you would find in your Mac Mini- T-15/20/25 maybe?. Just use a hand driver and not an electric(cordless) one. They sell these in the replaceable hexagonal versions FWIW. "PS: It is easy when you have as many opportunities present themselves as I do..."- He he, I can relate... Unless you can get your hand into the port, pulling the driver is about the only feasible option besides pushing the other one in to match! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 OK, I have my computer dissection tools at work. I'll bring them home tonight. Whatever it is called, it has 5 sides rather than six... They are definitely bigger than computer case bolts. Oh, and needless to say, I could never hear a difference. Link to comment
AudioDoctor Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 "PS: It is easy when you have as many opportunities present themselves as I do..." ROFL, I think we all suffer from that problem at times. No electron left behind. Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 "... pushing the other one in to match!" That is by far the best solution!! Link to comment
kana813 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 If you're worrying about applying too much torque, I suggest you contact the speaker manufacturer and ask for their recommended torque settings and get yourself a Wheeler Fat Wrench. From your owners' manual: "you want to reduce the volume of bass without moving the speakers further from the wall, fit the foam plugs or, for less severe bass reduction, the foam rings in the port tubes." Link to comment
wgscott Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 The same owner's manual also states: "Bi-wiring can improve the resolution of low-level detail. Figures 2a and 2b illustrate conventional and bi-wire connection." Hence, I thought it prudent to put the information through a low-pass bullshit filter. Link to comment
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