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The new generation UltraCap LPS-1.2: USER IMPRESSIONS and QUESTIONS thread


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31 minutes ago, agladstone said:

 

side note: 

I’m Loving the new Amperage output meter that @Superdad suggested I buy from amazon!! 

It looks sooo cool and it’s great to see the voltage and amperage usage real-time!  

 

On 1/18/2018 at 1:25 AM, Superdad said:

 

Yes, this one specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YALV0NG/

 

I want a meter too! Is this a DIY project requiring soldering or other materials, or can I just buy the Amazon part, and stick the wires into the 3 ports (GVI) in the back?

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 minute ago, Superdad said:

 

No.  36W is the requirement for the LPS-1.2.  Besides, I have had that exact model Chinese unit on my bench and:

a) It came nowhere near being able to put out its rated 3.3A at 9V--got it to about 2.5A before the voltage starting dropping quickly;

b) I ran VERY hot when pushed.

 

Yikes. That's what I feared. 

 

And same deal with the HDPlex 100 (the old one) - correct? As I recall, you said it can cause overvoltage spikes that will damage the LPS-1.2? Is this a danger even if I use the 9V rail?

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Also one observation regarding the LPS-1.2. I've noticed that any time I change voltage via the rotary on the back panel, it is easy to get in a mode where the LED stays RED. This happens either if you make the voltage change:

  1. while the unit is on. LED will go red, and never cycle to green
  2. while the unit is off via the push buttion, but energizing supply is still connected. Same thing - LED stays red on restart with the button.
  3. when the energizing supply has been disconnected, the LED has gone dark, but only a very short time has transpired. Again - perpetual red LED.

The only way I can reliably get it to work after a voltage change is to:

  • physically disconnect the energizer supply
  • wait 30 seconds or so
  • plug back in and turn on.

This works 100% of the time. Just a weird quirk, but it did worry me initially.

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  • 5 months later...
7 minutes ago, Blake said:

Austinpop mentions the maker of his silver cable in the "novel way to massively improve.." thread.  I seem to recall it was a Canadian company?

 

@tboooe Tommy, my experience with DC cables has been that both shielding and material/geometry matter. So far, to my ears the best SQ I've achieved (surpassing the Ghent Gotham JSSG 360) is with the following:

  1. Audio Sensibility https://audiosensibility.com/blog/sotm-audio/#!/Signature-Silver-DC-Cable/p/102469015
  2. On top of that, I've applied my own DIY JSSG 360 treatment, as described here: https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/?do=findComment&comment=836649

 

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9 minutes ago, Superdad said:

 

Hi guys:

I'm as guilty as the rest of you in discussing the JSSG stuff and DC cables, but I think it's gotten to the point where I should ask that DC cable discussions carry on in some new thread somewhere.  This is ostensibly the UltraCap LPS-1.2 power supply thread. :D

Thanks.

--Alex C.

 

P.S.  One parting shot though: The web page for that Audio Sensibility cable claims that the Oyaide DC plugs are phosphor-bronze (that's an alloy of copper, tin, and phosphorus).  But the Oyaide plugs most definitely are not.  They are gold-plated brass (copper & zinc). Just keepin' it real...:P

 

Oops sorry for OT post.  :D 

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