DIY DC power cables

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none of the above, @Middy

 

I believe what he's talking about is something like those here below:

 

 

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this is the one I made using 16AWG solid core copper with cotton insulation 

twisting that solid copper was... 

looks to work fine nonetheless 

 

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1 hour ago, Superdad said:

You should twist in the other direction. 

 

 

dammit: I have too to redo mine 

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9 minutes ago, Middy said:

...twist clockwise

 

 

*counter*-clockwise

 

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... is this one the original 4S6 or a fake? printing says it's Made in Japan 

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and... what about this one (so I don't need to bother some american friend) ?

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thanks Middy

bought 8ft anyway: I'm only risking a few dolla

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as soon as they realise how high in demand that wire is... price will soon go up 

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... are you going to offer DC cables too, Michael?

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29 minutes ago, Middy said:

Holding superdad up at gun point seems the only way to get the practical older Oyaide  ones.

 

always thought the ones I bought on eBay a few months ago were the "smaller new style" but found instead (comparing side by side to one of Alex' DC cables, those still hand made by the man himself , that came with my JS-2) they're the old, larger, ones

 

got em from this vendor:

http://www.ebay.it/itm/Oyaide-DC-2-5G-24K-Gold-Plated-DC-Power-Connector-plug-high-qyality-Japan-/142211465808?hash=item211c76c250:g:T5wAAOSw44BYUJmY

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1 minute ago, R1200CL said:

Still no one has yet told me distance for old Oyaide....

 

ask again: I have one here

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between the end of *center* soldering point and "beginning" of cable crimp? 9mm

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1 minute ago, Daudio said:

P.S. (to All, not just John) why has this thread page expanded its width beyond my normal viewport ??  Makes it hard to read !

 

happened yesterday here too 

closed browser's window, reloaded CA main page and all was back to normal

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8 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

So how come nobody does this?

 

actually there is a well known manufacturer using this kind of shielding in their most expensive cables

but as far as I understand it... they're also applying some "current" (using a dedicated battery, I believe) to the "shielding wire"

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1 minute ago, Daudio said:

Don't be a tease. name names !

 

AQ. but... let's wait for John's approval of the "electrically charging" the shielding before jumping on them

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30 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

For USB, I'm wondering if making it with two separate cables, one for Vbus and one for signal, both shielded of cause.

 

Michael makes a very nice, unshielded, USB cable with vBus and ground separated from Data +/-

at the moment I'm using his Isolate Cu (no vBus) between Aries and USB Regen but I'll order one of the above as soon as I get my Iso Regen, which needs vBus

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before I order one too (thank you so much @R1200CL  )... does the Canare bend easily?

I need it 20-30cm long and must bend to a "U" between a Regen and LPS-1 without pushing them apart

 

thanks

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ok, ordered a 30cm 5.5x2.1 at both ends, to use between LPS-1 and Iso Regen, plus a custom 120cm 5.5x.2.5 to 5.5x2.1 one to use between JS-2 and 2Qute

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done right now

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speaking of not elegant or pretty... finally the Canare 4S6 I ordered three weeks ago was delivered yesterday and while waiting for the Oyaide/Canare cables made by Ghent...

 

 

 

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37 minutes ago, m5sime said:

I doubt you will hear any benefit from the Ghent one..

 

it is all, as usual, just about audiophilia nervosa 

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11 minutes ago, Jud said:

By the way, do you feel as if you can tell any difference at all in the sound?

 

not the slightest!

probably because I was already using a great cable (solid, 16AWG, 4N OFC, cotton insulated, copper. twisted in the wrong direction, though) 

 

 

 

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Canare/Oyaide DC cables from Ghent delivered this morning (took almost one month  )

one 30cm 2.1/2.1 from LPS-1 to Regen and one 120cm 2.5/2.1 from JS-2 to 2Qute

 

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20 hours ago, mikey8811 said:

After all, i think we are all in agreement that "tube pre-amp"'s impart warmth and fullness, regardless of system specifics 

 

I don’t 😛

Both my RWA Signature 15 (6922 preamp section) and Don Garber 6922 pre + 2A3 power amp are perfectly neutral whilst my First Watt J2 is definitely warm, almost sweaty (with Don Garber’s 6922  as pre) and becomes neutral again with a Metrum Adagio as pre

 

“Tubes do sound warm” is nothing else than a commonplace: it actually depends on circuit topology, tubes themselves and sinergy among parts of the whole chain

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11 minutes ago, Ricardo007 said:

I plan to use the already tinned version ready to solder since I dont have a soldering pot

 

you must solder if you plan using those Oyaide DC plugs