Jump to content
IGNORED

Computer Audiophile on the Cheap


Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, Balder said:

Silly goose: Well on that i totaly agree....

 

We had a enormous industriell base, shipyards, volvo saab, asea- who built all our nukler plants(considered to be among the safest in the world)..

 

and so on... they all where outcompeted by "Asian" industri, without the strong uniun - we always had here. I have seen BBC dukumetarys abuot the workers conditions there - lets just say they don't have a long life expectensy...

 

My new DAC states:made in Japan, sounds god, if it's true?

 

We, all of us; have been spoiled by cheap styff from Asia. not many think about why they are so cheap? Must be magic? And usualy: momey talks! But i suspect that a lot of that money made in Asia ends up in pockets belonging to "western bussiness men"?

 

 

Exactly. The western world has been flushed down the toilet to benefit a handful of greedy western corporations, and the sweatshop owners in 3rd world countries. And we all lap it up blindly, not realizing we are slitting all of our own throats as we are being laughed at. But of course the media tells us Donald Trump is the real problem..... Real problem for who?

Link to comment

To be Honest:

 

The image we are presented by in media:

 

And these are NOT my words:

 

He makes one "crazy" statement after the other, reforms/changes he tries to implement are "blocked" by the "legal" system, he says "reckless" things on twitter, ignor if a line is safe or not, giving top jobbs to relatives....

 

To sum it up: He is portraid as a pompus man with grandiosa "illussions", some even comperes his "body" language with Mussolini(!). Claiming a thing like that - is to me, really crossing the line...if they can throw that kind of "insults", to anybody. where are we going?

 

I like to think that i make my own oppinoin based on fact, not roumers, but do I really, how infuensed are we by media, without knowing it?

 

My personol oppinion is that he won the election, not becouse he is so brilliant, but becouse the "career" politicians - had failed to see the huge gaps in the ekonomi "classes", they had no contact with real peoples lifes, and how it had changed so much during 20 years...

 

People wanted changes, things to be more "fair" - Trump gave you that hope, but will/can he deliver?

 

In other words: Anything was better than the sitting "concrete butts"!

 

Hence: Nobady in the political arena tok him seriously!

When he won - they just stod there with their "####" in their hands - What now.....

Link to comment
5 hours ago, Silly goose said:

I love that gorilla tape trick you used. It would likely be a smash hit with the elitist crowd. 

 

 

17799898_1798609487125680_2529743042137606422_n.jpg

I thought it would raise a few hairs on the backs of a few elitist types. When you have three small components, which have little or no mass, and then you attach huge diameter interconnects, nothing would stay 'lined up'. I am 'old skool' in that the only three things a man needs to repair anything is WD-40 (spray lubricant), a roll of Duct Tape (or in this case "Gorilla") and a hammer. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer... :)

Link to comment
5 minutes ago, bigbob said:

I thought it would raise a few hairs on the backs of a few elitist types. When you have three small components, which have little or no mass, and then you attach huge diameter interconnects, nothing would stay 'lined up'. I am 'old skool' in that the only three things a man needs to repair anything is WD-40 (spray lubricant), a roll of Duct Tape (or in this case "Gorilla") and a hammer. If that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer... :)

I've tried gorilla, but found that the genuine "Duck" brand has a better lower midrange., 

 

http://duckbrand.com/products/duck-tape/original

 

But make sure to go with the advanced strength, and allow 400-500 hours burn in before it really opens up. 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, Silly goose said:

I've tried gorilla, but found that the genuine "Duck" brand has a better lower midrange., 

 

http://duckbrand.com/products/duck-tape/original

 

But make sure to go with the advanced strength, and allow 400-500 hours burn in before it really opens up. 

Yes, a minimum of 500 hours of burn-in, for the adhesive properties to migrate into the magnetic resonance profile, and shield the external "Gamma Rays" from my unshielded 16-guage pure copper speaker wire.

 

Lower midrange with Duck brand? Well, my unscientific research indicates that at the level of Audiophilia I am currently working with, and some bad experiences with radioactive isotopes in my Phase Deflector circuits, I should stick to the tape that sticks best...You are a Silly Goose, and don't change for me....

Link to comment

Morning Guys(8 am here)

 

We have a saying that translate: If brute force don't work - use moore...

 

And my dad(RIP) - who was a very good mekanic, always had ducktape and a type of thin steel wire, with that he could fix just about anything "on the go". I remember when i was a kid, and the old saab (2-stroke(!)), lost the exhoust pipe - he fixed it on site, with that steel wire and heatresistant ducktape...

 

WD-40 has resently been introduced here, before that we had a similar thing named "5-56", the fumes from that spray....well i would not light a cigarette any where near... and in the old days, on a cold(-20 C) winter morning, i used to spray it into the carborator of my old volvo - started with a good "bang" - workt every time... that 5-56 spray has dissapeared from the market... 

My present car is computericed to a redicules level, cant't do a thing yourself with it?! The idiotic thing even slams on the breaks if i get "close" to an "object" - when i tried to disable that feature, by going into the cars "computer-settings" i got annoing warning messeges  - "warning: safty compromiced, beep, beep" - and it would not stop! So i had to enable it - makes me wonder sometimes who is driving, me or the onboard computer.... and if i really need my drivers licence anymore? Further more: It tells me "shift gear" (most cars over here has manual gearbox), if i happen to run on to high/low revs, and when i like to drive a little more "fun(sport-like)", then, of cource, "beep, beep - fuel consumtion unusual high!"...Feel like i am back in driving school-with a nagging instructor! It is a 3 year lease, i don't think i would like to buy that car....Skoda Fabia(Turbo) built in the "Tjeck-Republik" - now owned by the big "wolkswagen" group! (Remember the "scandal" when they had "fiddled" with the "emission figures" in US?).

 

I use duoble "sided" 1 mm thick, 10 cm wide, tape all the time, used it to fix my Boston speakers to their stands - nearly "impossible" to get them of now!

So, my "standardtools"(In the car) - swiss armyknife(old original-in pocket), ducktape"heatresistant", steelwire and a "mother of an axe"- blade on one side, sledge hammer on the other side.

 

The most usefull tool at home is my old "multimeter" - I make some of my audio wires DIY, and learned the "expensive" way to measure them for resistance, "short-circuit" etc - BEFORE connecting them(!), and my soldering kit, old but good, is essential to me... and my "Dremmel" - soo usefull...

Link to comment

Now Cheap Audio:

 

My next investment is an "alternative" sett of headphones:

 

I have: Shure SRH940(2013: 2000 SEK($ 150.200)) - my "reference" phones,(the best phones i had, second only to The legendary AKG 340"dynamik-elektristatic, hybrid" i owned '82-'95, when they"died", better than the HD600 i had for only some months)The "tests" on Shure vary from "High-End" to "booring", many have had BQ problems- they break easy. I love them, 42ohm, closedback, soft earpads(+replacement pair), i can sitt for 4-5 hours, playing really loud-with a good recording/gear, the mid and high is amasing, without any discomfort, the objections i, sometimes, have: They are to "honest", to neutral. They go deep in the bass, but without the "punch-slam" i would like from drums in heavier music(Industrial, Metal...), and, if the recording is low Q, they are unforgiving - sounds crap. Feeding them with "wrong"(not necesarely cheap) equipment makes them sound "flat, booring", even harsh. I have not have any BQ problems in the 4 years i owned them?

 

Also have a pair of Creative Aurvana X-Fi :(2008:1500SEK($150) Repaired them countless times, BQ = rubbish. You can run them "passive" = muffled "bass" dominate, blaha sound. "Aktive", multiple settings: NC, "3D", X-Fi cristalizer(bas-treble- boost) Eats batteries!, Not good SQ, but OK i guess as "portable" - I nearly never use them.... If i go by public transport - i prefer my old KossPortaPro(got them '97(?)). But i suppose on a flight, the NC would be useful...

 

So, I am after a pair of "low Budget" cans, prefer open ones, since those i have are all closed. I want phones that are more fun than correct - more rock'n roll, drive,nerv, drums! I want punchy bass, but with OK mid, high, absolutely not harsh...

I am in the early "search" stage...

 

So far i have found these Sony:

 

https://www.sony.se/electronics/horlurar-med-huvudband/mdr-xb950ap/specifications#features

 

(Noticed that it is in swedish, maybe somebody can check them out on a US site?)

For 499 SEK($50) online. Thats spot on my budget!

Anybody know/heard them? Read that they are "very" bas heavy, but with smooth mid and top(there is a "bas-port", can be covered to "tame" the bas if needed).

 

What else is out there? I would like some good advise?Know little to nothing about that price range($50-80).But the price in sweden may be very different: speciall offer - cheaper. ordinary price in $, probably double here, so i am "flexible"....

 

Am also member on "head-fi" forum, going to ask for advise there to...

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...