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Balder

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About Balder

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  1. Thank's dude! Suspected that: 24/96, and below is "automatically" supported without drivers in win 10, convenient for manufactures.... I have 2, very differnet DAC's: Korg DS-DAC100m, supports DSD128 with ASIO driver - Love it, play DSD when/if i can find them (within my musical preferences: Progressive Rock/Metal). My second DAC: LiTe DAC-AH(modified) - at present fed via a "PCM2704" USB ---> Coax "bridge", redbook only, and it's old.... but i keep coming back to it, has a sweetnes to the sound that "just feels right"? Two different ways: "multi-bit" vs "Sigma-Delta" one bit (with DSD!). I can't honestly tell you witch of them i would keep if i was "forced" to choose? So to move to a PCM 24/96 (most likely a sigma delta - but without the benefit of DSD?), I don't think so... Ps. a thought: LiTe is multi-bit, but what about "PCM2704" i use as a bridge? is there any converison there? Maybe i am feeding LiTe with a signal, that's undergone "delta-sigma" processing? I think to much....Ds. Merry X-mas, and thank's again for your reply. Cheer's/T.
  2. Concidering the Klipsch R-15PM active speakers. So tired of wires, devices = stuff, everywhere! I have searched everywhere for what built-in DAC it uses(USB)? Is it 24/96? more/less? I have some OK DAC's, but would be nice if it came with a "decent" one..... Klipsch homepage, downloaded manuals, specs: NO info on that? Anybody know? Cheer's/T.
  3. Hi Dougal! Also a "Newbie", though i started a "steep" learning curve some 2 years ago. In my experince Foobar2000 is the best player for a "weak" computer, very low CPU load. It is free, but to make it sing - you have to do a lot of learnining, and configure it.... You can configure it almost "infinetely". Now they have a "android" version, and a remote to control a windows PC from an "android" device, via your home network. I have no problem playing back native DSD64 on a "Inte Atom N455 1.66GHz/1GB RAM/win 10" PC(!). On the same PC, JRiver constantly "buffers".... On my second PC "dual pentium 2.4GHz/2GB RAM/win 10", JRiver sounds "warmer, sweeter", and runs without problems. I still use foobar2000 on that PC - mostly due to "tagging" issues, most of my music collection is rip's of my old LP's, CD's, and SACD's. When i ripped them years ago, i did not tag them very good. Foobar2000 has library view "by folder structure", as one option, i have failed to find that option in JRiver, so i end up with total kaos, with most albums in the "unknown" section with JRiver. But if you have a fast computer, and good tagging, i think that JRiver is the best option if you just want to "Install and play", without having to spend hours/days of configuring/optimizing....And in my opinion it sound very good, and is not to expensive. If i have to compare the sound: Foobar is "more in your face" - Rock'n Roll, and when configered/optimized - more "honest". JRiver has more detail/warmer, even "forgiving" sound, many people love that, but i have heard some calling it "booring". Since Foobar is free - try it out(and keep it-as a second player)! And JRiver has a month trial - try it out! Since they sound different, but niether is bad - Listen for your self, and decide witch one you prefer, trust your own ears - you have to live with the sound, nobody else.... I also have a very "niched" player that came with my DAC, AudioGate4(by "Korg"). That player outperforms both of the above, but is CPU intense, and to fully use it - you have to buy a Korg USB DAC! But if you are on a budget, and like DSD, i don't think you can beat the compination of AudioGate4 + Korg DAC. The player is automaticly "licensed" when you have installed software and plug your DAC in. I have the cheapest Korg DS-DAC100m, today about $200(?). I have tried all free windows players, and in my opinion foobar is the best FREE player, since HQPlayer is out of my "budget", i have no idea how demanding(CPU/configuring) it is, or what it sounds like.... Good Luck!/Cheers.
  4. The abstract "pleasure" of a music experience - happens in the brain! How else to explain how "halfdeaf" sound engeneers, and musicians - still can make their magic? In my foolish youth i went to aproximately 40 -50 Rock/Metal live concerts, i recently had a hearing test.... -10dB at 10kHz! So if my experience of music, and my HiFi hobby - totaly relayed on my eardrums. how can i possibly tell the difference between audio gear? One theory is that the brain forms some cind of "audio memory" - while your hearing is OK, and then somehow recalls that as your hearing "goes"? And, another thing: there is a disorder called "hyperakusia", where the patient are unable to "filter out" sounds that normal people do without thinking about it. Ex: patient having a conversation in a pub/cafe, and are unable to understand what the other person is saying - becouse the background noise is "overwelming", while that other person don't have any problems at al - It happens in the brains abillity to process the information from the ears... some drugs(medicins) can induce that condition temporarely, Lyrica, an antiepileptic drug can do that. I have pains in my feet, diabetic polyneuropathy, and was prescribed Lyrica for the pain, after a few weeks i noticed hearing the wall mounted clock ticking so loud that it interfered with my music listening: Linkin Park - LOUD! I could feel the bass vibrating my sofa, and that b***y clock ticking anying me over that loud music.... On my old pre amp i have a "hi-filter" button, cuts of frequensis over 7kHz, i remember hearing the difference clearly years ago, i tested that button after the haering test, that test was BS, i thought... I could not tell the difference pressing that button on/off?! So how is it possible that i can clearly hear the differnce between ex. linelevel wires, speakerwires, DAC's etc? In blindtests? I got a new DAC, and was choosing between audioquestdiamondback and supra eff ppx for the line out to the amp, supra had way more detail, and separation, in the hights and much smoother mids... How could i determine that easely, if i am half deaf? And if had to select one without listening - i would have choosen aq! Why? It has way higher reputation and costs 3 times more - hence it should be better! One thing i have noticed though, is that i prefer headphones more often - it "drowns" out my tinnitus! Earlier today i listened to "Deep Purple - Machine Head", DSD remaster(Japan-SHM) from 2011, via AudioGate4, Korg DAC, Adcom GFP555 pre-amp, in Shure SRH940 headphones and to my surprice i heard the "hum" from Roger Glover's bass tube amp - over the music! I have played that album so many times - never noticed that before? My point is - If you have "trained" ears, HiFi hobby for 35 years, even if your ears fade "on paper", your brain remembers and have become wired to details - and i think it "compensate" for loss of nerve signals from the ears, and that's how "studio-gurus", even half-deaf, still can do genius productions. I know from my experiense, that i automaticly moved more from speaker to headphones, and from analytical sound to warmer sound as my tinnitus and hearing loss progressed - one theory is that you can play louder with a warmer sound.... But what do i know? I trust my ears more, than what "HiFi Gurus" says is the "right" gear! I can't help it: Buy a Power wire for a shitload of money - Geneus idea from the industry, they laugh al the way to the bank... Say what? What!
  5. I am considering this HP amp for my next investment.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nobsound-Pure-Class-Single-ended-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Stereo-HiFi-Preamp-/262203347094?hash=item3d0c899096 But do i dare spend that, for me, a lot of money on a machine i know nothing about? Chine's gear can be, in my experience, a bit of gamble.... you can win, but you can also loose big.
  6. Hi there bobbmd! I also have an ancient Yamaha, the succesor to yours :the RX-V1800 (from 2007 - then $1300), witch i got when i traded some HiFi parts 2 years ago. I am pleased with it, i have a 5.0/2.0 settup. My center and soruond speakers are rubbish, but works for movies, thank's to YPAO parametric EQ(optimizing mic), sett to make them sound as close to my front speakers as possible. (Auto settup PEQ"Front"), some claims that Yamaha's YPAO is superior to "Audussie"? (Swede - can't spell English, sorry). But i seriusly doubt the statement: 7 x 130W, with a power consumtion of max 1100W - do the math! Class A/B amp efficiensy about 50%, so you need 7 x 260W for a output of 7 x 130, and then you have to power al the "digital processors".... my 10 ampere, 230V fuse for the living room would not survive that... my previous power amp, Adcom GFA535, stated 2 x 60W, and that was way more powerful than the Yamaha, but, that said - i am happy with my Yamaha, sounds OK for a A/V reciever. (while i save up for a replacement for the Adcom that "died"...). My RX-V1800 uses Burr Brown PCM9671A DAC chip(not sure about the "96"?, but it is 71A), actually the same chip used in a "Naim DAC" (that cost about $1500 back in the day). But it's way more to the SQ than the DAC chip, i think the "enviroment" around the chip is as importent, if not more. That chip can handle PCM24/192 and DSD64. I am not sure, but i think you probobly have the same chip i your Yamaha. Mostly i use 2.0 in "Pure Direct" mode. I also got a Sw in the same "trade", AudioPro-SubFocus; Never got it to sound even OK, but then i had the crazy idea to "Bi-Amp"(advanced settings: sur.back --> bi-amp) my front speakers, Boston A26, with the Sw "speaker level in", and that did it! If i close my eyes, i may think i had some realy big/expensive speakers, totaly recomend doing that - you bypass the "bass-managment" system, witch in my system was a big improvement. So - the queation if the Yamaha can power those speaker's? Absoltely if you have the option to "bi-amping" them!(and live without "sur.back" speakers). End of "ranting on", to your "DAC" scenario question: Case 1: OK, if you are feeding your DAC via USB, and then to your amp via digital coax = You are using the Yamaha DAC's. But if your DAC works in "isosyncrous" mode, you reduce jitter distortion and are using your DAC as a USB to spdif "Bridge". Case 2: If you DAC is connected to RCA stereo line in on the Yamaha = You are not using Yamaha's DAC's. Hope i was of some help. Cheer's/T.
  7. The end of this story... I got the £6, PCM2704 based, "USB-DAC-spdif-bridge". It was identified as "speakers(USB)" after a few seconds. Connected it via toslink to LiTe DAC-AH. Selected "wasapi event" - "USB Audio DAC", and 16-bit, in fb2k. Started to play a std flac file, and was "amazed" by the sound, the LiTe has never sounded so good! I think the reason for that sound improvement must be reduced jitter due to the "isosyncrous" mode that the "bridge" works in? Anyway, i love the sound from LiTe now - hard to describe: full bodied, organic, sound's "live" with loads of detail, yet never hard-sounding, micro dynamics are excelent - spacing between instruments, macro dynamics a little recest - in this case, an advantage: don't have to play loud to hear "everything". I also connected the "line/HP-out": Sounds absolute rubbish! But as a "USB to spdif" bridge, for CD - SQ, it is a bargain. For some reason the toslink output sounds way superior to coax? And BQ is poor, have to be caraefull when connecting things on the card. If you need a spdif and only got USB - i totaly recomend it for "redbook"(16/44.1 - 48) standard only! I also returned the generic "PCM5102A" DAC, subtracting the postige to China it only lost about £5, when i got the refund back yesterday. I must say that the level of service that Chine's seller provided, is rare in Sweden - he emailed me drivers, gave me advise, spent loads of time - and in the end he decided that the divice was defective, and offered me a full refund. I don't know if i am alowed to mention who the seller was, so - moderators, cancel this part - if i am "out of line": GC_supermarket, highly recomended, for their custumer service. So - all good, i've learnt a lot, lost £5, deffinitly worth it! Cheer's/T.
  8. The story goes on.... Tested a few Linux OS, AV-Linux seems to be the best. Anyway, my generic DAC was recognized: as a MIDI device? Yes professional gear.... Configured it i the "JACK"(ALSA-device) device meny... started "Clementine" musicplayer, selected "JACK" as audio output device. Started playback of a standard flac 16/44.1 file --> No sound, after 30 seconds or so, system frooze - crash! Spent a few day's, a weekend, working on the problem. But on the monday i went into MS support site (Sweden), stated my phone number, they called me back 10 minutes later(!), explained that my PC had "died", and that i had a win 10 licence on it. The support guy, a Swede calling from Romania(?), said no problem, and emailed me instruktions of how to download, install a new win 10 on a stick, and activate it with my MS account, digtally! WOW - that's good service, i had a rather low opinion about MS, but i must say that this was excelent! That tiny mini PC, has never worked better, after that "fresh" install! But - The DAC problem remains... During these trial & error, for about a week, or more, i have learnt toons about usb audio in windows.... So, my conclusion is that the reciever chip SA9227, ended up working in the "wrong" mode (when i pushed a file it could not play), reading the data sheet on that chip - it can end up in a "wrong" mode, and there is a "reset" pin, to switch back to normal mode.... all that is WAY over my head, for now... but - there is some way to "reset" the device to normal mode AND then find a driver for win 10... For now it is placed in storage, and a "PCM2704, USB to spdif" is on the way, for the huge cost of £6(lol), inkludung postage, to be used with my LiTe DAC-AH ("redbook"-only).. Lesson learned: don't by "cheap cards" from China unless you are something of a "electronics engineer", thus know how to fix those things. Cheer's/T.
  9. Got it! That generic USB-DAC is deigned for win 7/8! (witch is stated in the description of the DAC - i just thought it would work on win10, usually they mean "win 7/8 AND above", not in this case!) It is simply not compatible with win10! Hence the system can not identify it! Sumbled on that "vital" piece of info, while desperattly "googling". A guy who wanted it for "whatever" purpouse, suspected that win10 would not recognize it - he tried it on a few win10 devices, non could find it.So he tried ALSA(audio - Linux), and it found it straight away! So, i seem to have the following options: Return it Find a way to "return" to win7 Go Linux I seem to recal reading about a "Audiophile - Linux" OS, and since the PC i intend to use the DAC with is really weak: Intel Atom 1.66GHz, 1GB RAM - So Linux may just be the way to go...My other PC is old to, but way more powerful, win10 works fine on that - for my purpouses! So i have nothing to loose "experimenting" with OS on that "mini PC"....and since i have a "win10 - licence"(and account) on it - i can alway re-install win 10, if i mess up things totally! Returning it is not an option: The Postage from Sweden to China, is probably as much as i paid for the DAC.... As always = You get what you pay for! (with rare exeptions).. So, now i know why it didn't work, and i know how to, hopefully, make it work! The problem is that i will have to learn, and learn - new stuff about Linux. Lyckily i have loads of time to spend on that, it may even be fun? Wish me lyck! Cheers/T.
  10. Hi! Sooo depressed! Got the "SA9227 + PCM5102A" DAC card today, connected it (in a small open paper box-for testing), selected "ASIO:BRAVO-HD" in fb2k output,started a Flac file - and there was musik, opened the BRAVO control's - options range from 32kHz --> 96kHz/16 --> 32 Bit, fidled around with different bit-depht, played a 24/96 flac file - worked fine, then i selected a 24/192 file = error messege, no sound. OK - go back and play normal flac again, now no sound on anything? Reconnecting - now the dac is "unidentfied usb device", reboot, uninstal driver - nothing, re-installing driver + other usb port + other usb cable - "unidentified usb device!? The blue LED is allways on when connected? Tried it on another PC - nada! I am exhousted - and out of my "league" regarding options . what to do? Is it broken? Why did it get "messed" up, by selecting a file "out of it's range", is it possible to ruin a dac by playing music it can't handle? Never heard of that! Anybody out there, with a "functional" brain... mine had a "system failure"... Help/T.
  11. Hi! Late reply... I have no experiense with the other gear you are mentioning....But if you wan't monitors(more "critical" listening - mixing/mastering - "non professional"), i would recomend these: www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O They don't digg deep in bass, but has "cleaner" mids + hights. But for "fun - music listening" - This are my impressions/experiense of the "Logitech z533 performance" : I got the Z533 a year ago on a sale, not expecting much... but for the money, i can not imagine how they do it! They sound good, for the price - i can hardly belive my ears! I feed them from my old, but still good, pre amp Adcom GFP-555 ($700, 1988!). Pre out RCA to RCA in on the 533, volume on 533 set to "between 1/2 and max", bass "slide" between 1/2 and zero, then using Adcom vol pot, input sources, and the bass, treble controll's(if needed). Feed them from HP out initially - did not sound good! If you have a "pre" out source(or "line" out --> volume has to be controlled on the 533)), that's way better. (expensive RCA to RCA is "overkill", cheap one's works fine as long as they are stereo(+ not to long), avoid 3.5mm "HP" wire) If you work a bit with positioning(never angle the satelites inwards,keep them straight out, or even angled "away", keep the SW "smack in the middle"(crossover fr probably "high") and about 10 cm from back wall, relative distance - SW to wall, satelites to wall should be as similare as "practicly" possible), you even get a "soundstage", bordering on HiFi (!), and turn the bass "dial" down, the middle position gives to much bass(compromise the midds) for my taste. Initally i used them in a spare room (ca 10 sq m), sounded OK. Then, this late spring, it was so hot (30 C) for days, and my main system is power hungry = gives of heat! So, i tested to but them in our sitting room(ca 30 sq m), and after some hours of positioning etc... I was amazed! OK - we are not talking real HiFi, but good enought for spotify premium, and MP3's, with a "punchy" bass, and overall "nice" sound, ie, not hurting my ears, and a OK soundstage... Can't play really loud - sounds hard if you push it(bass level decreacis "automaticly" if you push it(!?)). To my surprice, considering their size and power, they sounded way better in this larger room....They are now my "green" system, way less energy consumption than my main system! BTW: Got me thinking on trying out a cheap "china" class D power amp, but with an oversized PSU, for the main system? (seen 100W+, mono amps(cards without PSU), as cheap as $50...). But the thing is: for $50(500SEK(normal price 1000SEK) on sale in Sweden), class D 60W(2 x15 + 30) RMS(if you belive that?), feed with a decent signal, with good positioning in a room sized ca 30 sq m, i can play music(without releasing 1000W of heat!), that sounds OK, not "HiFi" per definition(by far), but fun and with a god "drive"(playing ProgressiveRock/Metal), and loud enought for me to enjoy(on a "hot" day - without AC). Recomended if you are on a tight budget! I think that's as "cheap" as i can go, and not "throw it out the window", lol. Cheers/T.
  12. When i play back music from the PC i need the TV (46" LED) as a "monitor", and i also had a problem with the sounstage. But, as mentioned in the thread: TV as far back as possible, speaker's as far out as "practicly" possible (in a "normal" sitting room). My experiense is that "anything" between the speakers, as far out as the speakers, reduces the soundfield, specially the deepth of it.... But unless you are lucky to have a dedicated music room, there has to be some "compromises".... Hint: Those of you who uses foobar2000, there is now a android remote controler, so - once i powered up and loaded fb2k, i use my 7" tablet to browse, control what's playing, with access to album art etc. I can then turn the TV of, and of course "cover" it up, if i want... works fine for me... Cheers/T.
  13. Thank's for the respons! Maybe i'l explain the "purpus" of why i am bying such a "cheap" DAC. I have an old LiTe DAC-AH(spdf-only), modified by a guy on our Swedish forum, must have been nearly 10 years ago(!). He "bypassed" the OP amps and "crankt" up the jouce to the DAC chip's (4 x TDA1543/channel, parallel). It runs a bit hot, but the sound is, smooth, sweet, warm and never "aggressive", some may say "analog" - and it is still going! I have two PC's, both old, one is a laptop, the other is a "mini PC" (remember them?), none has spdif, only USB 2.0. So i needed either a USB-spdf "bridge" (and use LiTe), or a USB-DAC. I also wanted DSD native(have some SACD rips from when i, briefly, owned a DENON 2900, years ago...). Googled for DAC's for month's, when i, by chans, found Korg DS-DAC100m, USB, PCM 24/192, DSD128, using the CS4398 dac chip... a web shop in Sweden had a limited offer(february 2017) of 700 SEK(ca $80). At the same time Amazon UK wanted £210(!). There was a problem: Korg stated - DSD native only with their own software AudioGate(free when you buy the dac), but AG is a "b""th to work with! Not user friendly! And CPU intense! Since i never pay for software (if i can find it for free!). I have used foobar for years, and foobar you can customize to infinity.... so i found a way(on a site) to play DSD native, using foobar's ASIO in combination with Korg's ASIO - got it.. and my jaw hit the floor when i got it going! A god recording (flac), "danses" around the LiTe, DSD sounded "magic"... OK, so it was my first usb-dac, and the first with DSD. But i was amased by the sound/for the money! Now threre was a problem, the laptop worked fine, but the "min PC" did not have the CPU(intel Atom 1.66GHz), to handle DSD playback... That's way i started to look for a PCM usb-dac, on the "extreme cheap", a "naked" board is fine, and i am shure i can find some "tweaks" for the $27 dac, that is if it actally have the components they claim.... I read the link: Korg is also "studio" gear, and some HiFi "gurus" don't even give them a chans... i was sceptic to, never heard of it on "HiFi forums", but that time my "gamble" played out... no idea what Korg ds-dac100m costs in US? Or what cind of reputation it has, never found any rewiues... So - i hope to get lycky a second time, lol. Parden my spelling - from Sweden OK... Cheers/T.
  14. Hi guy's Needed a second USB-DAC for my "small PC". Am happy with my Korg DS-DAC100m in my main system, so obviously not looking for "HiEnd" here! After endless googling, this seems like a OK "compromise": http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SA9227-PCM5102A-32BIT-384KHZ-USB-DAC-HIFI-Asynchronous-Decoder-WIN7-WIN8/292021742664?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43782%26meid%3D7a76f0f25cb44a9cb276156d3671044d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301797923969 Ordered it last monday, paid $ 27, To be delivered between July 5'th and August 8'th - specific, aren't they? I have searched this forum and some others, no info at all? So, have i ordered junk? Or does it have some potential? Mainly going to play ordinary FLAC/MP3, and a some FLAC 24/96-192 files. The components seem decent, specs to - But has anybody heard it, or even herd of it? Downloaded drivers (ASIO) from SaviTech, ready to go.... Any input is welcome/Cheers!
  15. Now Cheap Audio: My next investment is an "alternative" sett of headphones: I have: Shure SRH940(2013: 2000 SEK($ 150.200)) - my "reference" phones,(the best phones i had, second only to The legendary AKG 340"dynamik-elektristatic, hybrid" i owned '82-'95, when they"died", better than the HD600 i had for only some months)The "tests" on Shure vary from "High-End" to "booring", many have had BQ problems- they break easy. I love them, 42ohm, closedback, soft earpads(+replacement pair), i can sitt for 4-5 hours, playing really loud-with a good recording/gear, the mid and high is amasing, without any discomfort, the objections i, sometimes, have: They are to "honest", to neutral. They go deep in the bass, but without the "punch-slam" i would like from drums in heavier music(Industrial, Metal...), and, if the recording is low Q, they are unforgiving - sounds crap. Feeding them with "wrong"(not necesarely cheap) equipment makes them sound "flat, booring", even harsh. I have not have any BQ problems in the 4 years i owned them? Also have a pair of Creative Aurvana X-Fi :(2008:1500SEK($150) Repaired them countless times, BQ = rubbish. You can run them "passive" = muffled "bass" dominate, blaha sound. "Aktive", multiple settings: NC, "3D", X-Fi cristalizer(bas-treble- boost) Eats batteries!, Not good SQ, but OK i guess as "portable" - I nearly never use them.... If i go by public transport - i prefer my old KossPortaPro(got them '97(?)). But i suppose on a flight, the NC would be useful... So, I am after a pair of "low Budget" cans, prefer open ones, since those i have are all closed. I want phones that are more fun than correct - more rock'n roll, drive,nerv, drums! I want punchy bass, but with OK mid, high, absolutely not harsh... I am in the early "search" stage... So far i have found these Sony: https://www.sony.se/electronics/horlurar-med-huvudband/mdr-xb950ap/specifications#features (Noticed that it is in swedish, maybe somebody can check them out on a US site?) For 499 SEK($50) online. Thats spot on my budget! Anybody know/heard them? Read that they are "very" bas heavy, but with smooth mid and top(there is a "bas-port", can be covered to "tame" the bas if needed). What else is out there? I would like some good advise?Know little to nothing about that price range($50-80).But the price in sweden may be very different: speciall offer - cheaper. ordinary price in $, probably double here, so i am "flexible".... Am also member on "head-fi" forum, going to ask for advise there to...
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