xllms Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 thanks for the advice, ckkeung. By the way, what hifi tuning fuse and transformer will you recommend for considerations? APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
CKKeung Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 thanks for the advice, ckkeung. By the way, what hifi tuning fuse and transformer will you recommend for considerations? I preferred the all-copper Cardas/Hifi-tuning model : HI-FI TUNING CARDAS copper fuse - Labkable . Some friends of mine like the silver+gold Supreme Version more : Hifi Tuning Supreme Fuse . For transformer, the O-core transformers from Kenneth Lau DIY Workshop are very good. There are 2 models made of different wires : 7N copper ; silver-plated. 7N copper : #157 Kenneth's DIY Workshop - Silver-plated : #175 Kenneth's DIY Workshop - Link to comment
fmak Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 thanks for the advice, ckkeung. By the way, what hifi tuning fuse and transformer will you recommend for considerations? Putting in new transformers , fuses and opamps in a piecemeal fashion is just a way of getting you to pay up perhaps half the cost of your dac without any guarantee that you'd like the result. If you can do it yourself, then it'll be fine, but paying someone is another matter. In my experience, the best way is to look at the circuit first to see what is wrong. With Chinese and US dacs, there is little chance of getting a manual and you'll have to follow thru yourself. From the pictures I can see of the LK, the LT power supply chips used are not up to standard and I shall not be surprised with the effect of transformer changing. The question is: where do you start and stop. Change the rectifiers, the capacitors and what else? There are things like making sure that are no ground loops in the design and construction that can have as much effect as paying $200 (guess) for silver or 6N transformers! If you want to mess, go get the Twisted Pear components and experiment. You will get better sound if you get things right. Alternatively, spend a bit more and get a W4S DSDSe (twice the price). You won't need to 'upgrade' then. You diy upgrades are likely to cost you 500 US anyway and you may as well spend some of it on a top set of USB and analog cables. fmak Link to comment
xllms Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 thank you, ckkeung. Greatly appreciate your kind help. I have just installed the femto clock & furutech connector and instantly the positive difference is felt. APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
xllms Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 This is really informative & helpful. I will need some time to digest. Your suggestions on the upgrades sound logical to me, unfortunately i have no background nor skills to do all these myself. (I have asked a friend to help me acquire the muse02 & LME49710 opamp, but i have yet to know which to change what) Thus i am doing small steps one at a time to slowly learn more about this DAC. This also give me time to listen to the DAC at different upgrade stages. I hope I can still get some good advice during my slow discovery. thanks for the advice, ckkeung. By the way, what hifi tuning fuse and transformer will you recommend for considerations? Putting in new transformers , fuses and opamps in a piecemeal fashion is just a way of getting you to pay up perhaps half the cost of your dac without any guarantee that you'd like the result. If you can do it yourself, then it'll be fine, but paying someone is another matter. In my experience, the best way is to look at the circuit first to see what is wrong. With Chinese and US dacs, there is little chance of getting a manual and you'll have to follow thru yourself. From the pictures I can see of the LK, the LT power supply chips used are not up to standard and I shall not be surprised with the effect of transformer changing. The question is: where do you start and stop. Change the rectifiers, the capacitors and what else? There are things like making sure that are no ground loops in the design and construction that can have as much effect as paying $200 (guess) for silver or 6N transformers! If you want to mess, go get the Twisted Pear components and experiment. You will get better sound if you get things right. Alternatively, spend a bit more and get a W4S DSDSe (twice the price). You won't need to 'upgrade' then. You diy upgrades are likely to cost you 500 US anyway and you may as well spend some of it on a top set of USB and analog cables. APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
fmak Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 This is really informative & helpful. I will need some time to digest.Your suggestions on the upgrades sound logical to me, unfortunately i have no background nor skills to do all these myself. (I have asked a friend to help me acquire the muse02 & LME49710 opamp, but i have yet to know which to change what) Thus i am doing small steps one at a time to slowly learn more about this DAC. This also give me time to listen to the DAC at different upgrade stages. I hope I can still get some good advice during my slow discovery. I am not familiar with the LK usb xmos driver but some of the Chinese 2.15 and 2.19 usb2 drivers omit the Thyscon Control Panel and Spy Tool. The first enables you to adjust the Stream and ASIO buffers. If you set these at the minimum smooth playback level, then there is a very positive improvement in rhythm and music flow. The hidden setting w/o this is a rather large buffer The spy tool allows you to examine various usb streaming parameters and kS error. To get the tools, you can revert to the 1.61 version and experiment. How much was your Femto clock? Does it have a new power supply? I bought 2 clock chips at Digikey for $24 each fmak Link to comment
bibo01 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I am not familiar with the LK usb xmos driver but some of the Chinese 2.15 and 2.19 usb2 drivers omit the ThysconControl Panel and Spy Tool. The first enables you to adjust the Stream and ASIO buffers. If you set these at the minimum smooth playback level, then there is a very positive improvement in rhythm and music flow. The hidden setting w/o this is a rather large buffer The spy tool allows you to examine various usb streaming parameters and kS error. To get the tools, you can revert to the 1.61 version and experiment. How much was your Femto clock? Does it have a new power supply? I bought 2 clock chips at Digikey for $24 each The LKS DAC has no xmos usb. It has a customised Amanero. The upgraded femto clock (82fSec RMS at 100MHz ) has its own ps for 130 euro. How curious are you? Link to comment
fmak Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 The LKS DAC has no xmos usb. It has a customised Amanero. The upgraded femto clock (82fSec RMS at 100MHz ) has its own ps for 130 euro. Who selld the Femto clock pl? The Amanero is a good choice. fmak Link to comment
xllms Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I got the femto clock from volent audio in HK. Am not sure if my psu is new. How do you tell if it's new? APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
fmak Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I got the femto clock from volent audio in HK. Am not sure if my psu is new. How do you tell if it's new? I have just bought 2 100MHz from Digikey for $30 each including VAT. Now, for my soldering skills! fmak Link to comment
CKKeung Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I got the femto clock from volent audio in HK. Am not sure if my psu is new. How do you tell if it's new? Hi xllms, It's important that the Crystek or whatsoever femto clock-chips installed get a dedicated and good powersupply, otherwise the sonic improvement will not be as obvious. If your femto clock is bought from Ben Lau of Volent, you don't have to worry. It's because Ben has designed a powersupply board specifically for femto clock-chips so that their performance can be optimized. Please refer to #91 for the photo : VOLENT Audio - VOLENT Speakers, L.K.S DAC Hi fmak, The Crystek clock chip can be damaged by the heat of soldering easily but I guess you must be a diy veteran and have good soldering skill. CK Link to comment
fmak Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hi xllms,It's important that the Crystek or whatsoever femto clock-chips installed get a dedicated and good powersupply, otherwise the sonic improvement will not be as obvious. If your femto clock is bought from Ben Lau of Volent, you don't have to worry. It's because Ben has designed a powersupply board specifically for femto clock-chips so that their performance can be optimized. Please refer to #91 for the photo : VOLENT Audio - VOLENT Speakers, L.K.S DAC Hi fmak, The Crystek clock chip can be damaged by the heat of soldering easily but I guess you must be a diy veteran and have good soldering skill. CK Hot air or Chip Quik should do it. There are videos on how on the web. The Volent clock is unreasonably priced at USD200 and there is no info on how good the power supply is. W4S will replace the clock for this! In UK you get it done for £99. Twisted Pear does small power supplies at reasonable prices designed for clocks. So does AudioGD but I have not measured it. fmak Link to comment
fmak Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 The Twisted Pear Trident Shunt supply costs USD30 and so a diy Femto clock costs probably USD 65 with postage. fmak Link to comment
CKKeung Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 The Twisted Pear Trident Shunt supply costs USD30 and so a diy Femto clock costs probably USD 65 with postage. Hi fmak, Good price! And diy itself is fun too. Please tell us the sonic improvement after you have done yours. Link to comment
bibo01 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Ckkeung, out of curiosity, what was Furutech IEC inlet model recommended? There are quite a few, even with emi suppression... How curious are you? Link to comment
CKKeung Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 This is the first Big-Level 7 dac in Asia. I auditioned it at the owner's house last night. Link to comment
obee Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 This is the first Big-Level 7 dac in Asia. I auditioned it at the owner's house last night.[ATTACH=CONFIG]12010[/ATTACH] As told by the HK distributor of Lampizator, we (HK) have the world's first Lv7 two boxes and Big 7 user. Player for PCM44.1: Squeezebox receiver (modified) Player for Hi-Res/DSD: VpyageMPD + i7 4765T, Asus MAXIMUS VI GENE, G.Skill 4G-DDR3-CL7, AdnacoS3B DAC: Lampizator Lv7 Tube Amp: YS-Audio Pre+Power My DIY: http://obeediy.blogspot.com Link to comment
wisnon Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Any impressions on the Big 7 Obee? Link to comment
obee Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Any impressions on the Big 7 Obee? Sorry wisnon, I have not tried Big7 yet. Player for PCM44.1: Squeezebox receiver (modified) Player for Hi-Res/DSD: VpyageMPD + i7 4765T, Asus MAXIMUS VI GENE, G.Skill 4G-DDR3-CL7, AdnacoS3B DAC: Lampizator Lv7 Tube Amp: YS-Audio Pre+Power My DIY: http://obeediy.blogspot.com Link to comment
bibo01 Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Please the Lampizator is OT How curious are you? Link to comment
fmak Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi fmak,Good price! And diy itself is fun too. Please tell us the sonic improvement after you have done yours. Took about an hour being very careful. Works well. First impression is better sound stage , focus, but slightly brighter. Needs running for a while to see. Best way to remove small XOs is to heat the whole chip with a 350C solder iron, having applied solder to the joints. Do remember where the dot is. fmak Link to comment
xllms Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Can someone advise what ampere rating tuning fuse should i get to replace the existing one? APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
xllms Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Hi bibo, May i know which 2 are the I/V stage & which 2 are the LPF? hi, I am thinking of upgrading the opamp hoping to get a lusher and smoother sound and at the same time, to have better and more responsive lower frequencies. Does anyone know which opamp will be suitable to achieve this? I was told that muse02 will give fuller mids while lme49720 will give better bass definition and muse01 will give better vocals. Anyone has any personal insights to share? thank u. I use MUSES02 at I/V stage and LME49710 at LPF. It's a small improvement - bigger soundstage - on the base op-amps. I would like to try the new Burson discreet op-amps when they come out. Do not try Muses01. It is JFET input type whilst Muses02 is Bipolar input type. Eventually Muses02 is the correct one. APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
bibo01 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 The LPF stage is the 2 closer to the back of the device, where inputs/outputs are. In your picture they have 4 green blocks to the side. How curious are you? Link to comment
xllms Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Do u mean these 2? Anyway, thx for the prompt reply. The LPF stage is the 2 closer to the back of the device, where inputs/outputs are. In your picture they have 4 green blocks to the side. APPLE Mac Mini | HUAWEI S5700 Dual OCXO Network Switch | SONORE opticalRENDU | SINGXER SU-6 | HOLO AUDIO MAY L3 | CLASSÉ CAP-80 | RAIDHO X-1 DENON DP-300F + NAGAOKA MP-110 • NAIM Muso QB • YAMAHA YSP-2700 APPLE MacBook Pro | TOPPING 10s | KINKI STUDIO THR-1 | HIFIMAN Arya Link to comment
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