The true experimental tweak thread

[austinpop]

I am really enjoying reading about all the creative tweaks in this thread.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

@Cornan - you're the Captain Kirk of tweaks, for sure. You go where no man has gone before.

 

@moussaobeid - I will never look at swimming tubes the same way again.

[austinpop]

Thanks @Cornan I am open to any suggestions/tips from anyone

 

Hi Moussa,

 

Nice diagram. Your system looks rather well optimized already, so it's all tweaking at this point!

 

My suggestions:

1. Keep the Brooklyn! I doubt it is anywhere close to the weak link in your chain.
   
2. Echo @lmitche suggestion about the adapter, if you can work the mechanics. I found some cheap cork coasters cut up if needed can help with leveling and support.
   
3. OTOH, some have reported better results with a short silver DC cable, either no-name Chinese on eBay, or the Sonore DC-4.
   
4. Cut the 5V out from the Intona to the RUR. I use a Vbus2, or if you have a double headed cable like the Lightspeed 2G, that will work too. The RUR will still properly send 5V to your Brooklyn.
   

Just curious - have you experimented with the endpoint approach- like the mR or sMS-200, as an alternative to the audio PC? I know nothing of the Nimitra, so maybe this is a moot point? I just wondered what your impressions were.

 

Anyway - your system has really good "bones." Enjoy it, and keep on tweaking!

[austinpop]

If you haven't, I think you should also check the new SOtm tX-USB Ultra, seems to have an excellent clock

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

Yeah, now I'm torn, after reading romaz's experiments with the SOtM sCLK-EX, it seems to be amazing. Better than the clocks chosen by Alex and John in the ISO-Regen? We won't know until someone tries it.

 

Just FYI - SOtM takes a dim view of Intona like devices, claiming that GI comes at the cost of jitter. In my own system, I know the Intona improves SQ significantly over the RUR by itself, so my experience says otherwise. As usual, I'm sure it's system-dependent.

[austinpop]

Third, I tested what @Cornan suggested to use Port 1 and Port 5 of the D-Link switch powered by a battery. The result surprised me a bit. I liked what I heard, the soundstage expanded and vocals gained more weight and dimensionality.

 

I'm just amazed he thought that maximizing port distance would make a difference. Amazing!

 

Learnings: A switch does have an impact on sound but it is not straightforward, It sounds better with a battery as opposed to LPS-1 and @Cornan brilliant idea of using the furthest port works!

You may gain some aspects but you might lose some, but It seems that the wins outweigh the sacrifices (in my case transparency)

Now, the switch is surely going back to Amazon, if a $35 switch can do this, then what will a high end switch with better isolation and clock do? That will be my next gadget to try. Most probably I will order the AQVOX audiophile switch that Cornan just mentioned in one of his posts (They have 28 day return policy)

 

What battery did you use, that sounded better than an LPS-1? Sorry - I haven't been following the details very closely.

[austinpop]

Quick update on my system

 

So many things are going on now,

I just installed two 20Amp dedicated lines with gauge 10 Romex wire (the electrician thought I am crazy!) and Furutech GTX-R NCF receptacles. It took almost 6 hours to fish the wire through my walls and the electricina didn't believe himself when I told him to install the new breakers away from the washing machine and dryer breakers:) He said he has been in the business for 16 yrs but never met someone obsessed like me before I took it as a complement.

Now I have the Naim gear plugged to one line and my JS-2 and VR Mini plugged to the second line.

 

I also moved my system from between the speakers into the side wall, close to where I sit.

I upgraded the Oyaide DC adpater that I did with a Furutech FA220 OCC copper Gauge 14 (vs cheapo wire gauge 22) and Mundorf supreme silver/gold solder

 

I also received the grounding box and a Vbus 2 on loan from a generous CA member.

 

Soon, I will get the BK 1604A IT and the AQVOX switch, but for now I am too busy evaluating too many upgrades.

 

For the grounding box, till I get the switch, I will try grounding the Nimitra or the DAC, what do you think @Cornan?

 

I just want to plug each gadget one at a time to evaluate its contribution.

Now I will let the romex wire, new breakers and receptacles burn in and the whole system settle for a few days before any critical listening. One quick evaluation, the system sounded incredibly transparent right after installing the new circuits (like upgrading a source or dac).Then I will start introducing the tweaks one at a time and keep you posted on my findings

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]33739[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33740[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33738[/ATTACH]

Very exciting!

 

I would love to know your impressions just from adding the dedicated line, before all the other "gadgets."

[austinpop]

I just plugged the grounding box to the Nimitra chassis and immediately the sound stage expanded outside my speakers. I used to have a wide stage but now it is wider with better clarity only after 1 min. I won't bother with experimenting the best location, this thing works and I will get a second box for the Brooklyn!

 

Thanks @Cornan!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Cool!

 

What grounding box did you get?

[austinpop]

I got this one, initially recommended by Cornan

 

Aucharm Audio Grounding Box with Crocodile lip Ground Wire | eBay

 

Hmm, now I'm tempted to buy one to try!

[austinpop]

No I haven't. Interesting thought...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[austinpop]

The system now is sounding simply magical!!! The dedicated lines are the best tweak I have ever done with the best return on investment.

My advice if you don't have a dedicated line just try to install one before throwing your cash on anything else. Naim is so fussy about power and grounding and they always recommend a dedicated line and no power conditioning at all, but I think it applies to other brands

 

Hi Moussa,

 

Any tips or gotchas you've learned with your recent experience installing a dedicated power circuit? Since my setup is headphone only, my total power draw is maybe 100-150W max.

 

In my setup I don't have a "dedicated line" per se, but as it turns out the way my room is wired, I am able to isolate my system to be the only thing active in that circuit. By circuit, I mean controlled by a separate breaker.

 

Isn't this the moral equivalent of a dedicated circuit? Or is there more to it?

 

I did also replace the original outlet with a PSAudio PowerPort outlet too.

[austinpop]

I used to have two rooms in my basement on one circuit breaker where one room is used as a music room. What I have been doing is disconnecting everything in these two rooms that's plugged to the mains. I used to have only my Hifi system connected, all lights are switched off (don't know if they still make noise when they are switched off as they are sill connected). I also thought that this is as good as a dedicated circuit.

Well, after I installed the two dedicated lines, I learned that I was wrong, don't why but probably many reasons, wire was gauge 14, with more than 4 or 5 outlets and light switches all connected to it.

Now I have gauge 10 going directly to the breaker panel.

The improvement is huge nothing comes close, I tried before using an Elgar 2.4KVA isolation transformer as a substitute then I sold it, didn't hear any difference. Now it's the 4th day and the system is sounding better everyday, so maybe burn in or the system is settling, not sure, but I am extremely happy

 

That's good motivation!

 

Did you have to pull new 10 gauge wire from your panel down to your basement? Sounds disruptive.

[austinpop]

Thanks for your suggestions @Cornan. I was almost going to order this portable router which has its own battery and looks very interesting! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21BN97ZLZ79FQ&psc=1

 

Then I worked a bit on my TP-link bridge, I have three devices that I am confused of which one should I use to fix the IP:

-Nimitra

-TP-WR802n bridge

-Asus RT-AC3100 main router

 

I decided to focus on the bridge, so I disabled the DHCP and assigned a fixed IP address 192.168.1.237. Then I added a fixed IP on the DHCP of the Asus main router 192.168.1.237, pls see pictures of my settings on the bridge and main router. I still see that the Nimitra has a different IP address 192.168.1.235 and this changes when I reboot the main ASUS router

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]33984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33986[/ATTACH]

 

 

I think there is something I am missing to get a fixed IP address to my Nimitra

 

Hi @moussaobeid -

 

So you want your Nimitra to have a fixed IP?

 

Here's the way to look at it:

• Your entire home network is a range from 192.168.1.1 to 255
  
• Your router is the gateway. It has a fixed IP on your home network, usually 192.168.1.1
  
• You should run your DHCP server on the router, and you can configure a range - say 192.168.1.50-150 of addresses to manage for devices that want a DHCP assigned address. You can change this range to be bigger or smaller, BTW.
  
• On your device, if it allows it, you can just set a static address, but make sure you pick an IP that is outside the DHCP range. Also, if you go static, then you have to be responsible for not assigning the same address to multiple devices.
  
• For intermediate devices like bridges, NASes, etc, that have a web UI for management, I prefer to set static addresses so I can bookmark their UI in my browser.
  

 

So keeping that in mind:

1. On your Asus router, which is the DHCP server, figure out what your DHCP range is.
   
2. Give your TP-Link bridge a static IP address that is outside the DHCP range. BTW - what you posted in your picture is where you turn DHCP off on your bridge. This is not where you set its static IP. That is probably up in the Network -> LAN pane.
   
3. On your Nimitra, just use the Windows adapter settings > TCP/IP v4 setting to assign it the static IP you want. Again - make sure it is outside the DHCP range.
   

 

That should be all you need to do.

[austinpop]

I'll be back! [emoji57]

 

Hasta la vista, baby!

[austinpop]

2 hours ago, moussaobeid said:

I just plugged in my AQVOX audiophile switch. I only listened to one track as a quick test, I got some improvement but not as I expected as the sound was already amazing with my setup (battery powered TP link bridge with Acoustic Revive ethernet isolator ). Initial impression is there is more weight to all the notes and a bit more relaxed sound. This was without grounding it, but then I grounded it to my cheapo Ebay grounding box and WAWWW! simply the transparency that I got is amazing, more decay to the notes and vocals are crystal clear.

Key learning: If you use this switch, it is a must that you ground it or at least try it, it literally transformed the switch and took it to another level.

I wish I grounded my cheap $30 switch before, so you may need to try grounding your switches first before buying anything. I am using the SMPS power supply, didn't experiment with anything else

 

Damn! Thanks for the reminder - time to order me a couple of these cheapish grounding boxes. 

 

@moussaobeid How long did it take to ship from Taiwan/China? 

[austinpop]

@moussaobeid @Cornan

 

So where in the end to end chain have you experimented with grounding boxes?

 

I know you've probably mentioned it in previous threads/posts, but thought I'd just ask.

[austinpop]

@moussaobeid

 

And how long in days did the 2 boxes take in shipping?

 

Wondering whether to spring for DHL.

[austinpop]

33 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

It took around 10-12 days to Toronto, so most probably less time to the US

 

Oh that's not bad at all.

[austinpop]

7 hours ago, Cornan said:

@austinpop

Well, I have experimented with the grounding boxes for many years and have tried them where ever possible in my setups. A tip to were to put them is to follow the shielding, high frequency noise and AC/DC current paths. If you have a path that still is not 100% isolated you have found a good spot for it.

 

I have tried my grounding boxes on the following places:

1. DAC- digital ground (Spdif), analogue ground (RCA) & chassi ground

2. Laptop/pc- digital ground (USB), AC ground (safety ground pin) & chassi ground

3. Streamer- digital ground (USB & Spdif) & analogue ground (RCA)

4. Isolation transformer w/floating secondary- chassi ground

5. ATL DC blocker- chassi ground

6. Active speakers- digital ground (Spdif) & analogue ground (RCA)

7. Router- RJ45 ground (plastic chassi)

8. Network switch- chassi ground (metal chassi)

9. Hifi rack- chassi ground (attached to metal frame)

10. USB cables- Entreq´s own USB cables with shield drain

11. AC wall mains- safety ground pin in unused wall outlet

12. Integrated amp- analogue ground (RCA) & chassi ground

13. Preamp- analogue ground (RCA) & chassi ground

 

I tried it on a couple of spots more...but they are all unimportant so no need to add them to the list!

 

Anyway, the best spot is very system dependant, depending on overall isolation (ICs & AC/DC) and chassi material. For example when I used the router with plastic chassi with the supplied SMPS and no DC isolation on the input the grounding box made a huge difference in sq. When I added a fully galvanicly isolated LPS and a Axing DC blocker on the input (plus galvanicly isolated network cables ofcourse) the grounding box did´nt improve anymore. It actually made things a tiny bit worse. Now, if the router had a aluminium chassi it still would have made a big difference if grounding it via a chassi screw. 

 

My best spot right now is the network switch for sure (which have a metal chassi with a dedicated GND screw btw), but it have previously improved on all the above until I have fully isolated the paths. 

 

One thing that actually have troubled my mind is why my DAC does´nt improve anymore via the chassi screw when the network switch still do? I think I have got a THEORY!  The network swith is powered by a battery and is not connected to ac mains while in use. Fully isolated, right? My Dac is connected to the Peaktech 2240 which is a IT with a floating secondary. Fully isolated as well.

So what about my theory? When the batterypack is charging it is still connected to AC mains (and to the network switch) and possibly pollutes the network switch with static electricity. I THINK this could be the possible answer to why it still makes a difference, since the Peaktech 2240 ensures that my DAC is fully isolated 24hrs/day. 

To test my theory I will try my coming cheapeo Gophert bench supply on the network switch. If it still makes a difference with the grounding box I have proved my theory wrong!  

 

 

Thanks!! Most helpful. I'll snag a couple to try out...

[austinpop]

Not being a DIY cable-roller, I've asked the ebay seller to quote me on some alternate cables besides the crocodile clip default. I'm thinking an assortment of RCA, power, and USB terminations should give me the flexibility.

 

Have you guys seen my latest chain? I've gone to a bridged direct connection, got rid of the FMCs (better SQ without), gotten an sMS-200 (powered by LPS-1) to replace Aries Mini (with Auralic LPS), and currently evaluating Roon core as the server on my W10 bridged box, optimized with AO and Process Lasso. The full chain is in the sig.

 

For grounding locations, I was going to try:

1. the W10 desktop. I guess I can just use the default ground wire's crocodile clip to a chassis screw. Or plug in a USB port if I get a USB terminated ground wire.
2. Codex DAC via RCA ground wire
3. Cavalli amp - RCA ground wire, although may have a chassis ground lug available to crocodile clip to
4. Not sure it's advised to try it on the P5 regenerator.
5. sMS-200 - given it's already powered by LPS-1, doubt it'll help.

Your thoughts and suggestions welcomed.

[austinpop]

28 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Yes, I have seen that you have left me all alone exploring the Aries Mini path! ?

As I have mentioned to you before I am not prepared to walk down the computer based audio path again. I have left it happy! ?

 

Yeah, I know! I was well on the path to NAS + endpoint = audio nurvana. Then @romaz came along and told me my equation was wrong.  Sometimes I wish I wasn't so open minded to empirical findings. But I can't deny that I heard an SQ improvement from:

• direct ethernet connection
• MinimServer on W10 box compared to NAS. Now I'm trying Roon, and can't say definitively it sounds better on the W10 box compared to my NAS, but I'd need to add an SSD to my NAS to get good Roon performance, so I won't try that route. Plus this:
• I found an SQ improvement optimizing the W10 box with AO/PL. Even though it's a ControlPC (only running music server), not an AudioPC.

I still have the Mini, but will likely put it up for sale once I get organized. I need to have a spring sale - have a bunch of cables, accessories and what not laying about. You guys know the feeling!

 

28 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

I think I'll need to check your spagetti image a little closer to give you suggestions where to add it. The crocodile clip is actually very useful. You can clip it to the RCA outer sockets (is. Spdif as well), you can clip it to the chassi/chassi screws & you can clip it to the USB sockets. Unfortunately US AC mains safety ground pin is not as convenient as EU Schuko versions and probably needs a special made cable. A suggestion would be to just get an additional cable with a US ac mains plug.

 

External grounding requires some experiments. I would certainly try it on the P5 if you have a spare socket or at the ac wall outlet where P5 is connected. Very likely a good spot for it! I wouldn't rule out that the LPS-1 feeder supply would benefit by being plugged into a grounded powerstrip either. 

However, if you have a router or a network switch I would start adding it there. The PC and the Cavalli amp could also be potensially good spots. Most important is to try it everywhere. You might be surprised where it makes the best improvement in your setup! ?

 

It is important to understand that it is perfectly safe to try it everywhere as long as you do not use it as the one and only safety ground path. This is not recommended and should never be done. As long as it is an additional grounding path it is very safe to use, even on the safety ground pin.

 

Thanks. I'll try that. Not sure I can use the crocodile on the USB jack though.

[austinpop]

10 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

What I really want to test is to try a SMS-200 with Nimitra as a server and see how it performs. I guess I will wait for the new ultra  SMS-200 and then may pull the trigger.

@austinpop initially suggested this idea and I will be doing it in due time

 

I too am waiting on the sMS-200 Ultra and the tX-USB Ultra, but decided to get the sMS-200 anyway for now, The Ultra's will likely be in the $1k-1200 range each, so may be rather expensive, when you factor in the fact they may need more juice than an LPS-1 can provide.

 

And of course, if Alex offers some sweet combo deal on ISO-Regen+LPS-1, it will be hard to resist.

 

It's a great time to be a ... oh, you get the idea.

[austinpop]

8 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Sorry, but is'nt the SOtM SMS-200 Ultra the coming SMS-200 streamer with improved clocks? 

The approach is something suggested by @austinpop to @moussaobeid using the Nimitra as a NAS controlled by the SMS-200. If it works it surely looks like a very interesting approach instead of using a regular NAS or a regular pc/laptop.

 

The Nimitra it will act as a so called Library server. Controlled by the streamer.

 

I think you guys lost me here. I am actually not familiar with the Nimitra, so @moussaobeid can perhaps confirm. I understood he was using the Nimitra to be a standalone music player - with music stored either in locally attached disks, or a NAS - feeding a directly attached USB DAC. So in that sense, it is just a purpose-built computer.

 

Now, to integrate an sMS-200 in the chain, the only thing you need upstream of the sMS-200 is a music server of different flavors:

• a plain old SMB share, which the sMS-200 can access, and be controlled by an MPD control point
• a DLNA/UPnP server like Minim, JRMC, Bubble, etc, that the sMS-200 can attach in MPD/DLNA mode
• an HQPlayer instance, where sMS-200 is running the NAA mode
• a Roon core, where sMS-200 is running 

Functionally, most of these except HQPlayer, can be achieved on either a standalone computer, or even directly on a NAS of sufficient horsepower (this is for Roon).

 

As I, @romaz and many others are finding, even with an endpoint device like the mR or sMS-200 in the chain, the quality of the upstream "music server" matters. So in this context, the Nimitra - as a carefully purpose built audio computer - may be at an advantage.

 

Not sure there is any more to it than that.

[austinpop]

7 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Now, since I am all concentraded to improve Tidal streaming only on my main headphone setup I will not jump the gun on this solution either. I would rather want something like an uber Auralic Altair or a uber Vinnie Rossi LIO with built in streamer. I just need to wait for it while I raise the funds.

 

Spot on!

 

Your scenario - where you want to optimize Tidal playback - needs to be approached with its own unique perspective. It is not that easy, actually. Even with my previous chain:

• MinimServer on W10 (AO/PL)  bridge > FMC > FMC > Aries Mini > Intona > RUR > DAC,

I was finding that the same track played back from my local library sounded distinctly better than from Tidal. But in my case, the local file was being served by MinimServer on the optimized W10 box, whereas the Tidal file was being pulled by the Tidal "app" built in to Lightning DS.

 

On my sMS-200, I am currently evaluating Roon, and am really growing to like it. My initial reaction was far less positive, but with some time and effort, I've seen a lot more value. I'll write about this more at some point. But in this context, I do find that having Roon serve the same track from Tidal or from a local store, there was virtually no difference.

 

Stated differently, using Roon to serve Tidal content sounded better than having the Aries Mini pull it. However, I would be the first to tell you that if all your music comes from Tidal, the cost of Roon is difficult to justify. And it pushes you back into the PC optimization space you want to escape!

 

So perhaps a higher quality endpoint like the Altair might do better. But only listening comparisons would tell for sure.

[austinpop]

1 hour ago, austinpop said:

 

...whereas the Tidal file was being pulled by the Tidal "app" built in to Lightning DS.

 

Correcting myself. The Tidal file is being pulled by the Aries Mini, using the Lightning Server running on the Mini.

 

Lightning DS is the iOS control app.

[austinpop]

9 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

I have wanted to try Room many times since it was released, but managed to resist my urges. I see no point with it since I have other ways to find new music. The only thing I miss with BubbleDS Next is the possibility to sort the albums by latest added. I have turned 50 and my memory of artists is not what it used to be! ? 

 

Yes, I too don't really need all the rich content features of Roon. But it was able to help me repair some poor tagging choices I made years and years ago when I first ripped my CD collection, which was awesome. Secondly, it is claimed that Roon will do the first MQA unfold for Masters content on Tidal, which is a powerful selling point too. 

 

9 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Playing cloud content or local files is in most scenarios pretty much the same in terms how to improve sq, but with one major difference. ALL of the music bits are passing through the router emerging from the world wide web!?

 

I hear you! This whole finding about SQ differences between switched vs direct connection and bridging is still baffling. Yet, I can hear it.

[austinpop]

1 minute ago, Cornan said:

 

FYI. Master content is already available on LightningDS. I did listen to it on my non MQA DAC and think is sounds a bit clicinal to these ears. It will likely sound better with a MQA DAC though.

 

We're talking slightly different things. What you're referring to is the MQA encoded Masters files that Lightning can access and play back. These are typically 24/44.1 or 24/48.

 

I'm referring to MQA SW decoding, which does the first "unfold" and generates 24/88.2 or 24/96. As you probably know, this is not the full MQA decode, which only an MQA DAC can do, but it is something.

 

Right now, this SW decode, or first unfold, is licensed and included within the Tidal desktop apps on Mac/Win, as well as Audirvana 3 that just came out.

 

BTW - and only as an experiment for science - I have "captured" some decoded content from the Tidal app and played them back through the Aries Mini, and I must say, even this first unfold can sound very good, depending on the track of course.