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Mytek new dac Brooklyn.


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Have anyone compared Brooklyn DAC powered via high quality ac cables into a isolation transformer with floating secondary with a great LPS or VR Mini? I am awaiting the delivery of my Brooklyn DAC and will start with the former. I like the fact that the built in SMPS draws less power than an external PSU, but are curious why so many choose external power supplies?

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6 minutes ago, m5sime said:

Hi - I do not believe that the Brooklyn draws more or less power from the internal smps vs external..  the internal PSU is highly rated and clearly measures very well from the reviews. Those with external PSUs (me included) are seeking  to get more from it and many have said it's possible. I haven't yet been able to say how much from mine. 

 

I read somewhere that the built in SMPS is less powerful than what is recommended to use for external DC supply. I cannot remember where though. Anyway, I am curious if anyone have tried a floating ac connection and still prefer external LPS/VR Mini? BTW. I have a truly floating SMPS that I will try initially as well when I receive it next week.

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1 minute ago, jtwrace said:

Plugging the VR MINI into any type of power conditioner isn't needed and further is a total waste as the output power of the MINI is completely isolated from the AC mains. 

@Vinnie Rossi can explain if needed.  

 

I know! That's is why I am interested in opinions between AC mains with floating IT vs VR Mini without floating IT! ?

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1 minute ago, m5sime said:

Hi - I have said this before on here and it was an anecdote I read from the Brooklyn designer suggesting that the external PSU should be considerably more powerful. When I mentioned this to a PSU designer he commented that those designed for steady state 3A can burst upwards easily as needed. The Brooklyn isn't especially demanding I believe 

 

Thanks, that is good to know! I might buy a Kill-A-watt and make some measurements on power consumption between the two options. Do you know the lowest possible V and A for Brooklyn via the DC input?

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Thanks @m5sime, @jtwrace & @mrvco! ?

I am going to use it as a headphone amp (6,3mm balanced without adapter) with Tidal as the one and only source. My Gophert 0-32V/5A bench style floating SMSP I own have a display that shows the actual amperage pulled by the connected device. I will set it on 12V and report back the average amperage pulled by the Brooklyn DAC, as soon as I have tried. It will also be interesting to know if a floating IT pre a truly floating SMPS could make a difference for the better or not with Brooklyn in the path, so I will try that as well. ?

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3 hours ago, Middy said:

You know me Micael, I have the DC filter,  the Airlink balanced IT,  AG500 sinewave just to feed a 13v Sbooster. into the Brooklyn. ..

Yes it is better than the internal power supply. But what you get with your uber battery set up will be interesting to see.

Shame you can't get the Amps from 2 lps ones... I even have the IFI DC PURIFIER on the end of the Sbooster....

The intona feeding with the Lps1 almost a bigger boost to SQ as above. But as you know it gets expensive.... I'd love to swap for the Rossi but the Iso regen is the last toy for a while. My new nature based sound system coming October. ..?

 

?

 

Thanks Dave! :)

I do not know about uber, but I will make some trials with various power solutions to see what will sound best in my setup with Tidal fully unlocked MQA. The initial setup will look like this with the option to replace the ISMR 880* with Gophert CS3205II floating bench supply:

 

Router w/floating LPS and DC blocked input (SAT)>>Wifi>>TP-Link RE450 wireless extender (connected to Peaktech 2240)>50cm Cat 6a UTP>externally grounded AQVOX network switch (connected to Peaktech2240)>30cm Cat 6a UTP>Auralic Aries MIni w/unregulated battery supply>Terdadak USB power-splitter w/TP-Link 5v battery injection>115mm unshielded USB cable w/o 5v>Regen Amber w/unregulated battery supply>500mm unshielded USB cable w/o 5v>Brooklyn DAC>*Intelligent Sound Master Reference 880 ac cable (dual starquad) w/rhodium Furutech plugs>Peaktech 2240 floating IT>ATL DC blocker>AC mains. 

 

If the Gophert floating bench supply sounds better I will most likely buy the Voltcraft FSP-1136 (11-14v/6-8A) floating LPS for the Brooklyn as my next option.

 

*LOL* Well, in October we will probably not see much of you here at CA! You will be too busy stopping noise instead of listening to it! ;) 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is a tip for anyone that want to inject 5v battery power into Mytek Brooklyn DAC.

 

I have been wondering why the battery injection does´nt work with my TP-Link Vivid battery pack for a little while. After a bunch of experiments and asking questions on CA without results it suddenly strucked me this morning that it have to be something with the battery charging mode. I descided to change my TP-Link Vivid, which is powered during charging (a constant power feed), to a battery pack that turns off the the power feed during charging. Voila, mission accomplished! Now it works and sounds much better! :)

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
36 minutes ago, jackbnimble said:

Good morning all. Has anyone who owns a Brooklyn used the phono preamp on this , specifically the moving magnet, and if so do you consider it a useful feature or just a throw in given the popularity of vinyl at the moment. Thanks in advance. 

 

Brooklyns phono stage have got good reviews. Here is one for starters:

https://hifi-opinions.com/en/review-mytek-brooklyn-dac/

 

Quote

MYTEK BROOKLIN PHONO INPUT

Instead of using the provided RCA inputs as analog line inputs, you can also use them as phono inputs to to hook up a turntable. The provided phono stage is compatible with both MM & MC cartridges. I only tested the phono stage with a moving magnet cartridge: a Clearaudio Maestro V2 cartridge.

When comparing the phono stage with my “budget reference”, the Lehman Audio Black Cube statement, the Brooklyn is clearly better. When comparing the Brooklyn phono stage with more expensive phono stages, there is no definite winner. In these price ranges a lot has got to do with taste rather than absolute truth. What does strike me, the characteristics found in the DAC are also apparent in the phono part of the Brooklyn: the phono stage is very neutral (which gives me more “absolute truth” than very expensive units that alter or color aspects of the sound, but that’s personal taste, right?). Further, the phono input portrays the same fast attack and a long decay found in the DAC part of the Brooklyn, presents voices in an equal lively and natural manner, and adds more than enough resolution to dig up inner details. To my ears, this phono stage is more than adequate in sustaining my vinyl passion and lets me enjoy every black disc I spin. When considering this phono stage is a bonus that comes at no additional cost, why bother buying another separate phono stage. Would you be more satisfied? I don’t think so. The phono stage of the Brooklyn does an excellent job.

 

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16 minutes ago, jackbnimble said:

Thanks Cornan. I have seen a couple of reviews in the pro magazines and online but very little mention of the phono stage. That link was very helpful. 

 

Your welcome Jack! :)

I am also considering to use Brooklyn´s phono stage. I am on the look out for a turntable, tonearm & cartridge to get that project going. Sold my turntable setup a year ago, but still miss it now and then.

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3 minutes ago, mumsoft said:

My old question regarding the phono stage, about specs, has never been answered. They go as far as "one can chose between MM and MC".

I don't think that will satisfy a seasoned analogue fan (which I am not).

Being used to internal phono stages in amplifiers, I was a bit surprised that several people use external phonostages, when I delved into the audio fora.

To judge the value of the Brooklyn phono stage, one should compare it with several of those external stages, but I saw not much reviewers do that.

Maybe due to the fact that it is incorporated in what grosso modo is called a DAC?

 

Anyway, it appeals to my less is more attitude in audio.

 

Marc

 

Have you read this? http://www.digitalaudioreview.net/2016/07/the-host-with-the-most-mytek-digitals-brooklyn/

 

Quote

A fellow Brooklyn user reported insufficient gain with his Benz Micro Wood. A follow up email exchange with Mytek tech support revealed the internal phono board’s gain as fixed at 69.1db for MM cartridges and 86.5db for MC variants (which on paper at least seems more than sufficient).

 

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15 minutes ago, mumsoft said:

Just for fun, I ordered the Miniot Wheel as my second, maybe even best, turntable. Google for it, because I am a bit lazy. Again, I love it for its simplicity.

 

Marc

 

Wow, nice one Marc! :)

I would prefer to have just the platter without the built in tonearm & cartridge, but really cool & clean looking turntable.

Please report back if it sounds good as well! :)

 

/Micael

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1 hour ago, quark said:

  Hi, thanks for the reply

Can you enlighten me further please. On my Apple TV remote the right button below the wheel is the play pause button, is this the one you are referring to? Because when I press it it doesn't do anything.

Just trying to find a way to switch the Brooklyn into standby remotely :-(

 

8873585180702.jpg.6888ab0e8561f25933e0411a9f50009e.jpg

You´ll need to press it for a second or so to turn it off :)

 

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29 minutes ago, mumsoft said:

I tried a few apps om my Android phone, but they need IR hardware, that my Leagoo doesn't have.

But I think it's a good idea to have some remote app working on your phone. I always have to look where I left the tiny Apple remote, whereas I always know where I left my phone. Almost always...

 

Marc

 

 

Then maybe something like this will interest you? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-TV-Remote-Case-Cover-Holder-Hard-Maple-Clear-Lacquer-Finish-/221975012542

 

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.fe5b910b79ecb85cf81e11eb6a0d4ede.jpg

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10 hours ago, kylevuong said:

When switching to Analogue input, there is quite a loud hum/buzz (volume is always set at 0db, the hum reduced when I set the volume to -30db, however it also applies to other inputs which I don’t want). I’m using Clearaudio Concept turntable with Dynavector 20x2H cartridge (moving coil - 2.8mV). Is there any way to reduce the hum? Earth ground is connected on the Mytek and I have no problem with my other phono stage.

 

To deal with hum can be a headache. There are multiply reasons for hum noises. Here is something to try: 1) Since you´re using a MC pickup it is important to keep a distance between the Brooklyn DAC and your turntable to ensure that the moving coil is not picking up any disturbances. 2) Re-check that the cartridge leads ans RCA plugs are firmly attached. 3) Make sure that the GND wire is firmly attached. If it is try to ground the wire to you amp. 4) Make sure that your turntable power cable is connected to the same power strip as your other audio gears. 5) Ensure that you have a clear distance between wireless devices and your turntable and that you have no LPS close to the turntable 6)If you have recently changed something step backwards (remove it) and see if that cures the problem.

That´s a start at least! :)

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 2017-12-09 at 11:53 PM, mfin said:

 

I want to free myself from the wires in that respect. I've run music from my laptop before to a dac down a 5 metre USB cable before, it's too much bother for me (especially as I am often using my laptop and moving it around all the time). Plus, I won't the max unfolding capability of mqa that way.

 

IME you will get improved Tidal SQ using LigthningDS/ OpenHome. Better than wired. I am using Aries Mini with Brooklyn DAC and get a glorious sound. Ofcourse what ever player you choose you'll need to improve AC, DC, isolation and grounding to get the most out of things. With Tidal it is crucial to improve the network (router/wireless bridge/network switch) on all four respects.

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27 minutes ago, mfin said:

Great. My network is wired, so as far as networking for an Aries Mini goes, I don't have to use wireless to connect it to the network. By wireless as I am sure you have picked up, I just mean being sat there with a laptop which is connected to something by a usb cable or any other sort of cable is not something I want to be doing.

 

I'm familiar with the approach to the networking side of things too, so putting any of that into action is easy for me, I've done plenty of network work and if I decide to go from an ISP's wireless router across to separate boxes for router, modem, wireless AP, and switch then getting that all in place and running is no problem at all for me if I chose to do it. (the costs get quite high quite quick though, well, I mean high as in approaching or above the cost of the Aries Mini).

 

So, it appears that you are saying an Aries Mini is not a bad shout and concentrating not just on its PSU and Cable but on the Network aspect too will reap rewards. The cost of doing all these things together is definitely at least the same or just over the cost of a full Aries.

 

One thing that improves Tidal quite a lot with Aries Mini is to connect a wireless bridge (or wireless adapter as they are also called) into a network switch, so the router is communicating with the wireless bridge and Aries Mini is connected wired to the bridge. IME it sounds way better than to wire the Aries Mini to the router. A very simple and cheap thing is also to add the JSSG (John Swenson Ground Tweak) to DC- output on all PSUs for router and network switch.

 

Aries Mini is a really great shout IMO. No doubt that it will require a lot of improvements around it to perform optimal, but I would say it is the very same thing for any other streamer solution as well. Ofcourse if you get the full Aries or a SOtM SMS-200Ultra you´ll get a jump in SQ, but not without the additional improvements. The additional improvements will most likely be neccessary whatever streamer you´ll choose, so it will only be more expensive in the end. 

 

There is many things that improves Tidal. In the very first post of my thread "The True Experimental Tweak Thread" I have put down the most important steps towards that specific goal. Have a look if there is something useful for you! :)

 

 

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1 hour ago, mfin said:

Got it, I have a wireless bridge here too which is sat doing nothing. So I can use that for the Aries Mini rather than just regularly wiring it.

 

I'll read up on that ground tweak etc, thank you.

 

Here is a link to the JSGT (Sorry, not JSSG that I wrote by misstake. This is another good improvement on ethernet cables. A Faraday cage for cables by recommendation from John Swenson):

 

In my experiance it is works great for the PSUs powering routers and network switches. It can improve in other spots too, but can also take some away, so it needs to be tested in each system.

Good luck! :)

 

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24 minutes ago, mumsoft said:

Maybe this is an interesting video on this matter:

 

 

 

 

The Pink Faun LAN isolator have been around for quite some time now. Indeed use it, but it (or any other network isolator) will not block the high impedance leakage. The JSGT is needed as well. ?

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11 minutes ago, exdmd said:

On my Brooklyn DAC+ using S/PDIF in from a Schiit Eitr with IN option easily bests the SQ using USB in on the DAC+.

 

+1 That’s similar to my experience where BluWave USB to Spdif improves SQ. BW USB input Powered by ISO Regen (w/LT3045 1A & 3A in series in input) and Spdif output powered  by LPS-1.2 (+LT3045 3A at input).

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