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Audio System

About Me

Found 8 results

  1. For sale is a used V-DAC II plus dedicated Pangea Audio power supply from Audio Advisor. Not sure if it's a LPS, and guessing maybe not since they didn't market it as such. Anyway, a classic DAC from the recent past. To my ear, it's easily competitive with Schiit DACs in this price range. Has co-axial, optical and USB inputs, and it’s a 24bit/192kHz asynchronous USB design. Here are some links about it: Musical Fidelity | V-DACII DAC Musical Fidelity V-DAC II D/A processor | Stereophile.com Retail was $480 ($380 + $100). Asking US$200.00 PayPal only and no trades, please. Buyer to pay shipping. I'll cover the PP fee. I don't sell a lot, but I have all positive feedback under the same username at Head-fi dot org.
  2. I am a new member of the CA community and have searched for any threads that may already be discussing this or a similar topic to no avail. I was initially planning on going with something like a Logitech Squeezebox Touch but then I started thinking about using a PC based solution for audio streaming. I am a Network Administrator by trade and also an avid PC gamer. Because of this my home network is very robust (HP and Enterasys GB managed switches all behind a SonicWall router/FW) and the pool of spare PC hardware I have sitting around is extensive (as a PC gamer I upgrade often). I currently have 5 active PCs as well as 2 ESXi Hosts running on the network and over 35TB of unused storage space. My managed network is running several different VLANs and regardless of which approach I end up taking the streamed audio (and eventually video) will be on a dedicated and prioritized virtual network. I have been an audio enthusiast for almost 30 years and my main system consists of the following (not state of the art but better than an old Realistic console): Aragon 8008ST and 8008x5 Anthem AVM 30 Kuzma Stabi turntable with a Kuzma Stogi tonearm and a Benz Micro Glider cartridge Michael Yee PFE-1 phono preamp OPPO BDP-95 Cambridge Audio Azur 640C 6 Wharfedale 9.6s with a Wharfedale 9.CM center speaker 2 custom made subs based on Peerless 10” drivers powered by an Acurus A250 So now that I’m finished with the long winded preface here’s my question: Knowing that I want to get as close as possible to bit perfect streaming of my downloaded HD and ripped CD files (mostly in FLAC format) and the plan for now is to use the DACs in my Anthem AVM 30 would I be better served getting a standalone streaming device like the Squeezebox Touch or using a USB to S/PDIF converter and a PC? Either way I’ll be building a virtual media server and storing the files on a GB networked server and sound quality is the most important aspect to me. I have also looked at USB DACs like the Audioquest Dragonfly, Halide Design DACs and HRT Music Streamer Pro but figured maybe I’d be better off using the slightly dated but good quality DACs (AKM AK4382 24-bit/192-kHz) in the Anthem AVM 30 with a converter. But, I may be way off base here so please let me know if I am. Another option is using the digital out on a good sound card but I figured the converter would be a more flexible and future proof option. Plus I’d like to start off for $400 or under if possible and then after I have a little more experience I can upgrade if necessary (the U-bug hits pretty regularly of late). If anyone knows of any threads already covering this please let me know but as I stated, I searched and didn’t find anything. I don’t want to annoy anyone by starting a duplicate thread. Thanks, Carl
  3. Here's a headphone I got from Musical Fidelity direct. It's quite close to neutral, with a very slight mid-bass bump, color-free midrange, and smooth treble. It is on-ear however, it has low isolation, and a fairly strong headband clamp. If you're looking for really good sound in this price tier and are OK with these features, then I'd say highly recommended. As an aside, I've been told by a couple of users that some companies who are well-regarded for speakers and other components, who make headphones for the first time, often don't get involved in the design and end up putting their brand name on an inferior headphone. Not this time. Musical Fidelity MF-200 Audiophile Stereo Headphone review
  4. I have a DS214SE NAS that I use as a FLAC files storage device with wired connection to my router, then router to Musical Fideilty CliC streamer, also wired. The set-up was very easy as one would expect with UPnP and I was streaming quality music in no time, using the MF control point app on my iPad. The problem is that the only control point app that does not clip 5 seconds off the end of every song is the Musical Fidelity app. All the other apps I have tried which includes Kinsky, Creation 5 (nice app) PlugPlayer and Synology DS Audio, the music stops 5 seconds before the end of the song and the next song (if there is one in the queue) starts playing. The same thing happens if I use my Macbook and Synology browser interface Audio Station. However, the strange thing is that if I stream the music back to the iPad or Macbook instead of the CliC, regardless of control point app, then the full song plays. Unfortunately, the only app that works properly (the MF app) does not have the ability to create playlists and is very basic in operation. I also installed MinumServer on the NAS and selected that as source, but the same problem exists. Any help appreciated.
  5. Hello everyone! Recently I purchased Musical Fidelity V90-DAC. Besides other inputs, it's connected to PC through USB asynchronous. Cable is QED USB performance graphite. Everything would be fine, but the connection between PC and DAC constantly terminates. That is, signal doesn't go through the DAC. Luckily, it's never when playing music. But always when I clear and then set new playlist, оr just stop playback for a little time. If I then turn playback on, I hear only silence, which, probably, in terms of MF engineers is the best music. Cure is to switch DAC off and then back on. It's not critical, but it's annoying. My computer setup is: foobar2000 (WMP acts the same), WP8.1x64. USB Audio driver is standard Microsoft, and I haven't found any alternative. MF provides their own technical support only by phone, two hours in business days, but I'm going to call them (in fact, I've already called once, but it was Easter Break and they did not work). They strongly suggest to contact their local dealers, in Russia, where I live, it's CTC-Capital company, I've sent them three emails, but they gave me no reply. I suppose they are too busy with choosing new Maybach (joke). Anyway, any suggestions would be highly appreciated on my situation. Maybe someone faced the same issue with other USB Audio DACs and (hopefully) knows the workaround.
  6. Greetings all, I need some configuration feedback on my server setup to make sure that I'm getting the best sound; I also need feedback on some odd problems. Here is my current setup: I have a Mac running OSX 10.7 and the latest iTunes. I'm not running anything else; I'm not using any plugins I'm going from the Mac to my Anthem 50v Preamp via a Musical Fidelity V-Link USB to S/PDIF. I have CDs, High Res Apple Lossless and FLAC files on my server If I want to play FLAC files, I use VLC I have the MIDI setup for the Musical Fidelity set to 96k 2ch-24bit integer for output. My general questions are: Is there anything that I should be doing specifically to optimize my audio? What plugins or other software would one recommend to work with iTunes. I use the Apple Remote on iOS devices to manage the server library so I want something that is still compatible with the iOS remote control. Now, my odd problems have to do with FLAC files: If I use VLC files to play FLAC files, they don't sound as good as I think they should. Specifically, if I turn up the VLC volume slider past about 70%, the FLAC files clip and they sound horrible. Any thoughts on this? Is it just that the gain is too much? What is the best way to play FLAC files within iTunes. Some say Amarra and others PureVinyl. What are the pros and cons in my specific setup? I don't mind converting my FLAC files to Apple Lossless if that's the best course of action and I'm very tech savvy and happy to do that too. I appreciate any additional thoughts from the community to help me out here.
  7. I am currently living in Southern Europe. I have had over a long time equipment such as Conrad Johnson, Krell, Muse, Bryston, Snell, Vandersten, etc, etc: Two separate systems. One for Home Theater and another for Music. Sadly, I now have only a great Boston Acoustics CD player and Radio + Logitech SB. I have over 10,000 CDs stored in NAS. I like progressive rock, classical, jazz, and Spanish guitar music. I'm now looking forward to getting what what I have (by WiFi, with the PCs & NAS in one room and the rest on another) by acquiring a System of the Class B type of Stereophile/Absolute Sound/HiFi.uk/Etc. Please bear in mind that when we talk about prices in the USA for example the range $2,000-$5,000 is $3,500-$8,000 in Southern Europe. What do I need in separate components to get the same functionality but High-End Sound of what I have now? I want a great pair of PASSIVE Speakers: PMC, PHONAR, Vienna Acoustics, Monitor Audio RS6/RS8, Paradigm, Splendor, etc.? Do I need a Network Player? If so, which one? Pioneer N50-K, Naim, Musical Fidelity, Advance Acoustic (French with bad reviews by apparently they're decent), Cyrus Audio, etc. Should I get an integrated DAC/pre-amp, which includes a network player?Advance Acoustic, Naim, Cyrus Audio, etc. If I have a DAC, why do I need a pre-amp and vice versa? What about amplification? Thanks to you all, Jeannette
  8. Hi guys, does cutting a 5v line on a usb cable work as a noise isolator? To begin with here is my audio chain. Computer - Usb port - Musical fidelity Async M1 Dac - Emotiva mini X amp - Hifiman He-500 headphones (speaker taps) Computer - Usb port - Musical fidelity Async M1 Dac - Stereo Out - Active Yamaha Hs80m Speakers I play Flac/Wav music, minimum 16bit 44.1kHz using jriver 19, Wasapi, Full volume, nothing in the dsp chain - cleanest possible. I own a Musical Fidelity M1 Dac, which offers async usb, but not galvanic usb isolation as we all know this can lead to all sorts of noise problems. It's self powered so I believe doesn't require power via the 5v of a usb cable. I tried playing back and forth with optical and Usb to see if there was any difference, as it's an headache to know you've paid lots of money to have a degraded experience, especially when there's talk of improvements such as isolating Usb etc. Trying both out with Jriver. Optical was connected via a Titanium Hd soundcard, no motherboard connection. Optical seemed to offer a faster attack and delay to percussion type instruments, like a sparkly finish to the sound, yet vocals seemed slightly recessed. Usb brings the Vocals more into play, they are more pronounced and focused, easier to concentrate on, and more analogue/warm , but the other sounds are slightly blurred, i can't hear that slight reverb finish at the end of a sound, its almost as if it has been cut off! Both have their flaws. I conducted a test. If I stick some electrical tape over the 5v pin on the A connector of the Usb cable, and play with the Dac connected via Usb, switched to Usb mode only, the sound seems to be more crisper. To define crisp.. If a percussion is playing , its attack is faster and there is no blur to it, i can pick it out among the sound in its own little space. It's not just percussion, it makes each sound a little easier to identify, more spaced out, but the soundstage hasn't changed at all. I hope this isn't placebo as I haven't got any monitoring equipment to measure the difference. The thing is, I would rather use an isolator to do this as there is a slight issue with covering up the 5v pin. A sine wave is introduced into the sound if I plug in speakers to my wall outlet. The speakers are connected to the Dac also, but the Xlr have had their ground pins cut. So why not removed the tape with the speakers plugged in? I did. And the sound via usb lost its crisp edge again. Any truth to this or is my mind playing tricks? Will a Usb isolator do the same as stopping the 5v from a computer touching the signal?