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USB To SPDIF converter with AES/EBU vs coaxial output


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Wondering whether anybody has noticed a difference in sound quality between using AES/EBU outputs and a standard coaxial output from a USB-SPDIF converter to your DAC. Am thinking of getting the Bryston BDA-1 DAC and the USB-SPDIF converters with AES/EBU output are more expensive. Also does anybody have any experience with the M2tech EVO USB/SPDIF converter?

Appreciate your help.

 

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The EVO is an excellent product at it's price point, good power supply is essential to make it really shine.

 

If you can use Firewire consider the Weiss Int202. Probably the pick of the bunch but not cheap.....

 

I have tried AES/EBU vs Coax and did'nt get a notable uplift but I suspect there are many many variables in this mix, and each Dac may be different subject to the implementation inside the DAC.

 

My best SPDIF connection has been coax via BNC.

 

Trying to make sense of all the bits...MacMini/Amarra -> WavIO USB to I2S -> DDDAC 1794 NOS DAC -> Active XO ->Bass Amp Avondale NCC200s, Mid/Treble Amp Sugden Masterclass -> My Own Speakers

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It is based on the XMOS USB to SPDIF package. I have an Edel which is very similar and is very nice sounding.

 

Issues,

 

1) No external power possibilities, so stuck with USB power which is quite marginal for the XMOS package.

2)Clocks don't look great.

3) no I2S. I know we are talking AES/EBU here but I2S is so much better an interface than legacy SPDIF so this limits it.

 

NB these are views without hearing the actual U3 so should be taken in context.

 

Trying to make sense of all the bits...MacMini/Amarra -> WavIO USB to I2S -> DDDAC 1794 NOS DAC -> Active XO ->Bass Amp Avondale NCC200s, Mid/Treble Amp Sugden Masterclass -> My Own Speakers

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You could also have a look at the SOtM dx-USB HD asynch USB to SPDIF. About the same price (450$) as the EVO with AES, coaxial and optical out.

 

Both Auraliti and Sonore Servers distribute this brand in america I believe.

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arcam rDAC / Oppo BDP-83 / NAD 315BEE / Totem Arro

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I've had the Stello U3 for about a month now, in the set-up detailed in my signature line below. The Stello replaced the Musical Fidelity V-Link, which only provides galvanic isolation through Toslink; the Stello has no Toslink, but galvanically isolates its two outputs.

 

I'm completely satisfied with the Stello, which I am now using with an Analysis Plus AES/EBU interconnect. I liked the Stello immediately on plug-in; it calls attention to the music, not to itself. The AES/EBU connection seems a bit quieter than SPDIF, but the difference is not dramatic, and only discernible with what may be over-listening concentration on my part.

 

N.B.: Stereophile reviewed the Stello U2, last year, not the U3. The review of the U3 you may be thinking about was on the 6Moons site, which was indeed glowing, but perhaps, like much on 6Moons, a bit more metaphysical than practical. Anyway, they loved it.

 

fm

 

 

 

Qobuz via Aurender N10 > Devialet Expert Pro > Audio Physic Avantera

 

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From the beginning it was intended to be supplemented and a bit of a Swiss Army knife DIY and tweakers. To my ears, adding an external clock had more impact than using a shunt regulator, but I have not tried good batteries. It makes more sense when you consider that the clock has the most important power supply needs, and a good clock comes with it's own (isolated) power supply. If you can use the i2s, it is a no brainer.

 

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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I believe the V-Link 192 will have AES digital output.

 

Eloise

 

Eloise

---

...in my opinion / experience...

While I agree "Everything may matter" working out what actually affects the sound is a trickier thing.

And I agree "Trust your ears" but equally don't allow them to fool you - trust them with a bit of skepticism.

keep your mind open... But mind your brain doesn't fall out.

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Hi Papageno,

 

I'm using the Evo along with a dCS combo (of the previous generation).

 

In my system, with the external battery Evo psu, it easily outperforms the Weiss Int202.

 

The clock is to be released very soon and will add to the swiss army knife style ;)

 

I have not extensively compared the different outputs, but both the Aes and the optical (yes) are sounding brilliant here. I had less good results with the coaxial outputs, but this was before adding the battery psu.

 

Add JPlay to the list (if you are a Windows user) and that should pretty much do the trick !

 

Elp

 

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Elp,

Thanks fir the info, very helpful. When I looked at the EVO battery supply unit, its price is similar to the EVO itself. I presume the EVO comes with a DC 9V adapter. have you noticed a big difference with using the battery PSU versus the wall Adaptor? Any cheaper alternatives to the battery PSU?

Appreciate your input.

 

papegeno

 

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Hi Papageno,

 

yes it costs as much as the interface itself.

The clock will be around the same price.

 

So all in all, that's triple the initial cost, but still in line with the Weiss Int202 or the Wavelenght Wavelink for instance (in terms of pricing range).

 

I have tried the following PSUs :

1) An 'advanced' smps (30€).

2) A CI Audio linear (250€).

3) The Evo battery (370€).

 

With my preference being : 3 > 1 > 2.

 

2 was really not much of an improvement, in my system, against 1.

The voices were darker and further from the rest of the music. Everything was just colder.

 

Then 3 against 1 is a no brainer.

The music comes from a blacker background, is more focused, and yet much more detailed. It reminds me of JPlay very much.

 

Hth,

Elp

 

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