Whole house wired network

[koogook]

Hi,

 

so far the help here has been outstanding. Thank you!

 

I am in the position now to start hard wiring the whole house(new build) with cable.

 

Really i am looking for comments in relationship to what others have found to be easy, functional hardware and tips to wiring a house.

 

I have a rough plan but will hope to provide plans later;

 

I want internet for tv's, servers(mac mini).

I dont play games so no xbox, Ps3 etc.

I will have mac mini 2011 as audio servers and video playback from NAS(at leat 2 rooms).

There will be a separate home cinema with amp, bluray all needing ethernet.

I was hoping to add cctv on the network to about 2-5 areas.

Telephone is not important.

1 printer for all computers(optional)

 

 

I will also have dual band wireless for mobile remotes, and late night web scrolling on tab. mostly and only for mobile.

 

What do i need for a home wired network?

Cat5e or Cat6 cable?

ethernet switch, managed or un-managed?

Should i consider P.O.F?

Am i missing any key component?

 

I will show zones and progress as the responses do, many thanks for you help.

 

Ben

 

 

[Audio_ELF]

Not really specifics but...

 

First off, if you have the walls open, run more cabling than you think you will need: anywhere you're considering a single point run two and anywhere you are thinking of more than one run two more points (i.e. 4 instead of 2; 6 instead if 4). Cabling is cheap, running cable and making good isn't. I would run Cat6.

 

If you have a largish house, run a port to attach a second (and maybe several other) wireless bridge(s). You may not need them but better to be able to easily add them if needed. PoE can be used via injector rather than relying on a switch with PoE.

 

Try to find a central location to run everything back to. That place needs enough space to store any NAS, the switches, etc. Maybe even your printer if you don't gave a dedicated office. At the switch end get the cables terminated with properly labled RJ45 connectors: unless you have a huge installation there is really no need to use a patch panel.

 

I've had good experience of both Linksys / Cisco (often the same hardware is available as high end Linksys and low end Cisco) and Netgear. It's probably worth a managed switch as you can then separate audio gear onto one vlan, possibly a second for video and keep both separate from general traffic.

 

[Elysian]

Unless you have specific equipment in mind, I highly recommend getting a router compatible with Tomato firmware. I noticed a huge increase in reliability, much better latency, and a small increase in bandwidth when I got off Linksys firmware and onto Tomato. The first two are very noticeable if you play FPSes

 

http://www.polarcloud.com/tomato

"Tomato is a small, lean and simple replacement firmware for Linksys' WRT54G/GL/GS, Buffalo WHR-G54S/WHR-HP-G54 and other Broadcom-based routers."

 

It's very easy to install, far more configurable, and delivers much more information, than any OEM firmware.

 

The 8 links under Screenshots at the top are images and videos of the firmware in action.

 

[Audio_ELF]

Not sure if you were already thinking this... But I would use the router purely as a router (for Internet connection).

 

All wired Ethernet should go to a separate switch. And (optional but advised) get a separate wireless access point for your wireless connection(s).

 

Eloise

 

[Elysian]

Really good advice from Eloise. If you go with her recommendations, you'll be able to subsidize your audio hobby by running a side hosting business or high-end net cafe from your home

 

I admit I'd probably take a lot of shortcuts if I was doing it for myself, limiting myself to a router directly to the cable modem, then switch(es) as needed out of the router. I would, however, go a bit overkill on cables delivered to core rooms like the family/living room, office, bedrooms, etc., as she had recommended. I always find I end up adding more computers/devices than I ever take away.

 

Hand-wiring your own ethernet cables will save you a lot of money, give you flexibility for as much length as you need, and won't have the lousy plastic tabs pre-wired stuff comes with. If you don't know how to do it, there are many guides with pictures online. It's very easy to do once you do your first and make a mess of it.

 

The difference between Cat5e and Cat6 is irrelevant. You'll probably die of old age before ISPs get to 1000mbps, and Cat5e does 1000 Mbps anyway (while Cat6 is the same; it's just certified for it).

 

[realhifi]

Not much to add to those recommendations. The point of seperating wireless with it's own router is key to getting best performance from what you are looking to do. Oh, and obviously get a GOOD wireless router.

 

[koogook]

Hello and thank you for your earnest kind replies!

 

Lots on information to take in.

 

I have had a quick look online at some cat5e and cat6 cable on one site, i think i was looking at some premium business stuff because the cost was anywhere from $160 for 100m, pvc 24 guage cat5e to $700 for cat5e/6 super insulated f/utp.

 

I might have to have a look elsewhere it seemed double the price for the same cable in UK???

 

I suppose it would be good to start with a starting point, I am going to get the synology ds1511+ i have seen many reports, reviews that this is the most solid performer with incredible speeds and functionality. I think its only downside was $50 for extra camera licenses. Which is a small issue.

So this will be installed with 2 or 3tb drives.

 

I will also be getting the Asus rtn-56 black diamond dual band wireless router. Again great reviews fantastic speeds.

 

I will put up a plan of house and proposed kit, to make sure im getting it right.

 

I like the idea of separating audio and video, is there another solution because the synology has 2 ethernet outputs or is it better to bridge them and get more speed?

 

Thanks again for your help

 

Any ideas on switch's makes models etc would be great.

 

Ben

 

 

[realhifi]

Just call one of us and we'll fly out and check everything for you, no charge of course! *s* just kidding.

 

[Audio_ELF]

If you're looking to reduce the budget; go for the best cabling and cut back on hardware... You only gonna wire once (hopefully) but it's easy to buy new equipment.

 

[koogook]

Hi David

 

You are welcome anytime, we have a guesthouse being built as we speak!!

 

I serve hot food and cold beer for work.

 

When you say keeping wireless separate, what is the chain of hardware for this.

 

Am i going: wireless router Switch

 

Broadband --> Modem --> ?? --> ?? -->

 

Or vica versa?

 

 

Hi Eloise

 

Thank you again.

 

When you say get good cable in, are you talking grade, sheathing, or Cat5e to Cat6a?

 

I will try to post something of a plan today to help improve the visual aid for what is needed.

 

Thank you again your help is priceless.

 

Ben

 

[koogook]

Just to add Do i need a patch panel? what exactly is it.

 

It seems to me to be a terminal for terminating cable bare wire then sending a patch cable to switch for management of cables, am i close?

 

Here are some prices for you to smile about because you can get it cheaper:

 

Cat5e utp (350hz) 305m(1000') - $80 special offer

Cat5e F/utp (350mhz) (305m) - $150

 

Cat6 F/utp (305m) - $225

Cat6a F/utp (650mhz) (305m) - $290

 

To me these prices are reasonable, the Cat6a comes with a 30 year guarantee supposedly.

 

Patch panels:

 

Cat5e 24 port $50

Cat6 24 port $85

Cat6a 24 port $190

 

Any recommendations would be great, i have no issue with the prices of any of these apart from Cat6a patch panel price??

 

I would probably need 2 reels but could get away with 1 as walls are open and everything is on top of each other.

 

Thanks

 

Ben

 

[AudioCynic]

Cat 5 is for 1GB ethernet, Cat6 is for 10GB. Today, 10GB is pretty rare, in a few years it won't be so rare, so it makes sense to go for Cat6. Both Cat 6 and 6a can handle 10 GB ethernet, the difference is that 6 is limited to 150 feet or so, 6a 300 feet. Unless you have very long cable lengths, you're wasting your money on 6a.

 

[Elysian]

Cat5e also works for 1000Gbit. It's just not certified for 1000Gbit like Cat6 is. Most IT people say that either one is fine if you did work in an environment that had those kinds of speeds.

 

[Miska]

This is mostly description of what I've been using, but it may help...

 

I'd recommend CAT-6 cabling. I'd also recommend using installation pipes so that you can later rewire things easily with fiber or new cable if needed.

 

It is also good to carefully plan the locations for WLAN APs so that you get good full house coverage. LAN sockets (and possibly power) are naturally needed at those points, possibly close to the ceiling. I would recommend using WLAN APs with PoE support, it makes installation cleaner.

 

I'd also recommend using a managed switch at central point so that you can create VLANs. Also make sure that it has backplane capacity of nports * speed (8 Gbps for 8-port GigE, 16 Gbps for 16-port GigE, and so on).

 

VPN/IPsec router is useful for the internet access to allow full secure remote access to the local network over the internet.

 

 

[koogook]

Thats great!

 

so in short Cat6.

 

With F/Utp?

 

Also could someone elaborate what is needed for PoE i have seen cisco managed switches that have this, is this all i need?

 

When we talk about Wlan Ap's im just sending a wired connection to Ap that will then broadcast a stronger wireless signal?

 

Thank you all i will add more later,

 

Ben.

 

 

 

[Audio_ELF]

F/UTP is shielded cable. If you can get standard UTP that will be fine.

 

PoE (Power over Ethernet) is useful as it allows you to connect Wireless Access Points (and other devices) requiring power without needing a "wall wart" PSU.

 

Yes, a Wireless Access Point is connected to wired Ethernet and provides a signal to a location effectively boosting the signal.

 

Eloise

 

[Miska]

With F/Utp?

 

I prefer S/FTP+PIMS (each pair shielded and then the whole bunch is shielded). It's not so expensive either, 50€ for 100 meter coil.

 

Same with CAT-7 spec is not that expensive either, just double price.

 

[koogook]

Ok great!

 

This is all key advice and im taking it in, im running a plan of the house and working out what i need. I will try to do a run down of equipment cable pricing to help anyone who might be stuck like me with this.

 

Thanks again everyone

 

Ben.

 

[koogook]

Hello have a look over this, if you will.

 

Basic but gives a more visual representation.

 

At the moment only rooms and equipment is shown, without wiring of cat6.

 

This is the 1st floor.

In short the samsung internet tv's provide movies, tv and mac as well as browsing with skype(wired cat6) for both bedrooms.

 

The cambridge audio 840a(wired cat6 to amp terminals) gives music to terrace/lounge with maybe some PRoac book shelf speakers, from mac mini and DAC combo(possibly hiface evo/music fidelity DAC)

 

The mac can be shared to both en-suites(later rooms), the 840amp can play 2 sources at the same time thanks to Incognito abus technology. However some other source will be needed preferably wireless remote operational and cheap to make this happen?

 

Well thats it for the moment the big boys room and downstairs lounge will be next.

 

Thanks for your help

 

Ben

 

 

 

 

[koogook]

oh and the red square is wireless headphones for listening to music late night and television and movies.

 

[Audio_ELF]

You realise that the Cambridge Audio Incognito system though it uses Cat 5 cabling is NOT Ethernet. You'll can still patch it all via the same patch panel but you need to be careful no connection is made from Incognito into a network switch.

 

Eloise

 

PS. As an aside, have you also considered if you need any co-ax for aerial feeds?

 

[Paul R]

Hey Ben -

Late to the party, but as usual, Eloise pretty much nailed it, and your diagrams look good. (Where is your equipment closest?

 

Just to add my $0.02, Cat6 cabling all the way buddy, and as Eloise pointed out, home run everything. You want a patch panel or punch down panel in your wiring closet with a port or set of punch downs that represents every single outlet you install. This will save you untold grief in the future.

 

Do run at least 4 pair wiring, you don't need all the wires of course, but when a pair goes bad, you will be happy that you have the spare. The cost difference is minimal, given the investment you are making.

 

Secondly, I would recommend Cisco switches, without any question so you can setup VLANs. My home office network is built like this, and believe me, the difference is very important. We have a home "play" network that isn't built with VLANs and boy - can you ever tell the difference. Most people wouldn't notice, but it nags at me like a sore tooth.

 

 

For the router to the internet, well, it is easy to recommend an Apple Airport Extreme base station. It's cheap, nearly indestructible, and works very well. To get the same quality and performance, you would need to spend significantly more with other gear, as it outclasses pretty much everything else in it's cost range. (Yep -that is a free Professional Opinion.

 

Do not embed equipment in the walls, as often recommended by builders. Guaranteed you will tearing holes in the walls to get to it sooner or later.

 

Lastly, be sure to run any coaxial or fire / security cable at the same time, and take care to keep the wiring away from power. If you do have to cross power lines, be sure to cross them as close to 90 degrees as possible.

 

Best -

-Paul

 

 

[wgb113]

Ben,

 

Hands down the best CAT6 cable you can buy from a performance standpoint is Belden's bonded-pair cable. It will outperform anything else on the market and can run longer distances and is much more durable during installation.

 

God luck,

Bill

 

[koogook]

Hi Eloise

 

Cambridge audio is cat5 internal and only to the amp and wall socket, not connected to wiring on the network yes. It uses a separate PSU to power the wall sockets. It's a neat trick for playing 2 sources, but i might just try switching AB speakers and only one source playback first, but wire for the future.

 

Coax aerial, hmmm. Are you talking just distribution to Tv's or are you suggesting i can network it with CAT5 and then swap back to coax at the tv end?

Here we have Satalite and cable, what would be my options?

 

Thanks again to everyone i hope to post downstairs and then home cinema soon.

 

 

 

[koogook]

Hi Bill

 

Thanks for that! Belden Cat6 bonded pair is it F/utp or utp? Do you know a model number by chance?

 

Thanks for the tip, most appreciated.

 

Ben