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How Do I Keep My Apartment Neighbor From Hearing My Subwoofer?


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There is one more option which I used to practice when I was much(!) younger and listened to metal more often and a little B| louder than nowadays. You turn up your music step by step with each day, beginning with quite low volume and ending with your maximum volume for about two weeks after moving into a new apartment. At some point you usually can hear you neighbor banging with some heavy tool at a radiator (most popular method, not the only one though). This is the crucial moment.. (you obviously shouldn't listen to the music loud late at night according to the law of most countries which usually doesn't say anything about a day time reproduction). Well.. you know - I actually could never be really sure what the banging meant - they don't like the music, they think it's too loud or ...maybe they simply love it and e.g.  want more of it or want it louder. All of this can obviously be explained in a normal conversation, as for banging the radiators - you simply can't know the meaning of such uncivilized behavior B| And like I said - this is the crucial moment - what you do is very simple - you don't react - you don't change the music, you don't turn it down. It requires some  self-control and iron discipline if the banging takes again place some time in the future.. You allow the music to play for about 10-15 min longer and then you turn it off - very important - off, not down!

This method not only always worked but also allowed me pass some neighbors without so in  fact repetitive and boring 'good mornings' 'good evenings' etc.. 

;)

 

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50 minutes ago, Allan F said:

I gained the added benefit of tighter bass.

 

You've decreased the stability of the speakers and gained tighter bass.?

Seems strange to me. IME the optimum is - spikes going through a carpet and resting on solid floor surface (if it's wood - on some metal elements resting on the wooden floor).

Talking optimal placement, not sound isolation form neighbors here, of course.

 

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Something tells me that in most cases putting loudspeakers on something less stable than their spikes resting on stable floor surface, if connected with the described above increased bass control works like this': the lowest bass gets lost to some degree due to the increased instability of a speaker (instead of emitting the lowest frequencies into the room a driver slightly 'shakes' the whole loudspeaker enclosure) hence the problems connected with those frequencies disappear and therefore one can have an impression of increased bass control.

Just my 2p.

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25 minutes ago, jiminlogansquare said:

You might want to audition some cast iron speakers.

"JERN cabinets are made as a one-piece composite metal structure of proprietary material called ‘’ Vibrakill ‘’.
This material ensures massive stability and density, providing unsurpassed resistance to vibrations and resonance."

 

Ok, everything seems just wonderful, now let's have a look at their stands.. (from their site)

trpiod_middle_resamp-300x150.pngstand_complete_resamp-106x300.pngtripod_high-200x300.jpg

How about their "massive stability and density providing unsurpassed resistance to vibrations and resonance"..?

 

:D :D :D 

 

32 minutes ago, fas42 said:

The concept that I work with, as ideal, is to imagine using one of those free standing bank safes in the customer area as the speaker cabinet - cut a couple of circles in one, with an oxy torch 😁, and bung the drivers in ... that's a speaker !!

 

That is, enormous mass, which is going nowhere, nor vibrating, when you add some energy to it - for once, the visual analogy works: solid stability gives 'solid' sound ...

Don't forget that by putting the money in/taking it out you could possibly perfectly fine tune the enclosures!  ;)

 

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