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DIY DC power cables


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I had some RCA's made with the Belden 1804A with your external wire mod.

 

Sounds brilliant !!

 

I got these delivered yesterday. The Canare 4S6 and Valab silver star RCAs.

 

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They will serve as a phono cable for my Ariston RD40 turntable. I will sacrifice my Entreq Eartha Cupper grounding cable and use it as a ground wire.

 

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5 hours ago, jamesg11 said:

Well, yes, that's a thought - there are 'improved' phono cables out there for my SME 20/2A (V arm), but they are hellishly expensive.

Are such possible with this new cabling approach?

 

I still have'nt started to put it together. I'll hope they will make a difference for the better, but if they will outperform any expensive cable it too much to ask for. I can just report back if they improve upon my current Jelco phono cables.

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  • 1 month later...

Here is my initial impressions of the Ghent Audio ET02 Ethernet cable.

I ordered a 15cm and a 50cm cable.

 

As you can see it is growing on me and I can without a doubt say that it is the best Ethernet cable I have tried in my setup up to date. Strongly recommended! ?

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3 minutes ago, Em2016 said:

Thanks for sharing Cornan.

 

Just to double check, the cable's shield is not connected to the connectors at all, at either end of the cable?

 

The shield is only connected to the 'external wire' that runs straight down the outer jacket?

 

 

 

Your welcome Em2106! ? Yes, correct on both questions. The shield is not connected to the plugs and it uses the JSSG loop with external drain wire. Awesome quality cable that sound inferior to other ones I've tried. Still expecting it to improve some more.

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37 minutes ago, tboooe said:

Are their any special instructions that we need to provide Ghent when ordering?

 

Also, are you saying this cable does NOT sound as good as others you have tried?  I thought you liked it?

 

I love the Ghent ET02! I did'nt notice there sneaked in a NOT somewhere! ?

 

No special instructions to order. I choosed T568B. No shield attached and JSSG loop is the normal ET02 cable. If you want special lenght that needs to be confirmed via e-mail to Ghent. 0,10-1 meter is the same price.

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1 hour ago, tboooe said:

BTW, here is the part of your post that confused me "Awesome quality cable that sound inferior to other ones I've tried."  So to be clear, you think this Ghent cable sound better?

 

That would be superior translated by my Android to inferior without me noticing. It should be Superior and nothing else! ?

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  • 2 weeks later...
31 minutes ago, alecm said:

What about AC ? I mean, could i use starquad cable for AC transmission? 

 

Yes ofcourse you can! I can assure you that AC mains starquads is great (best IMHO)! ?

 

http://www.atlhifi.com/shop/audio-cables/1-meter-power-cable-silver-in-ptfe-rhodium-plated-schuko-and-iec-connectors/

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BTW. I have also ordered this proper starquad USB cable (2x4 conductors) with dual shields and JSSG loop. Looking forward to give it a try within a couple of weeks or so! ?

 

20170904_122455-1.thumb.jpg.e7aeb4f3d8b9ac573577ecd145c062da.jpg20170904_194646-1.thumb.jpg.d170101ce554de9e7415fbb33399e621.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
28 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Does anyone know how to make a star quad cable...is there a set number of twists per inch or something?

 

Easiest is to buy a couple of meters of Canare 4S6 http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIFI-Japan-Made-Canare-4S6-Copper-Speaker-Cable-Wire-DIY-4-0-51-Conductor/291934904144?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590923122121&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 and screw terminal plugs http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-5-5x2-5mm-2-5mm-CCTV-DC-Power-Male-Plug-Free-Solder-Terminal-Screw-Connector-/321901337464?hash=item4af2d09b78:g:DeYAAOSwYHxWKeLj. Red & pink wired to positive and white & creme wired to negative.

 

:)

 

IMG_0815.thumb.jpg.0f3bd2d2cd78f8bfbf009d8c438ba18d.jpg

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_quad_cable

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
12 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

Thank you, John, for the additional explanation and the caution re applying JSSG to high frequency cable, e.g., USB.  The few DC cables in my system are less than 12 inches in length so guessing it might not be worth the bother to do these.  Any thoughts about the length where the shielding effect would become significant.

 

lmitche, I did see offerings of tinned copper braid on Amazon.  Given what I would expect to be relative ease of soldering to copper  sleeve, any special reason to pick tinned?  If not, then I guess it becomes issue of aesthetics.

 

@BigGuy

If you are interested how a proper 8 conductor starquad USB cable with dual JSSG will turn out I will get one in a couple of weeks. I will be posting my impressions in my thread The true experimental tweak thread as soon as I have tried it IRL. ?

 

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19 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

8 conductors!  Thinking that would be star quad for D+ and D- plus shielded star for 5V and GND.  Are the data conductors also shielded?  Hard to imagine trying to get all those conductors soldered to the pins?!  I had a design in mind for a DIY cable but was not considering star quad.  This thread has likely changed my  mind.

 

Looking forward to your impressions.

 

FWIW, CAD has announced 2 new USB cables.  Gulp!

https://daviddenyerpr.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/press-release-cad-usb-cable-i-ii-2017-09.pdf

 

Yes, the 4 conductor D+ & D- is is a separate sleeve and the 4 conductor 5v & GND is in the other separate sleeve. All 4 ends of the sleeves is soldered to a drain wire. I think it is all pretty visable on the picture. Luckily it is not me soldering the cable. ATL Hi-Fi is doing all that for me! ?

 

The CAD looks like a surprisingly similar contruction to my current 3-wire Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite 115mm, which is considerable cheaper (bottom cable). I have a 500mm version as well, but have'nt got a picture available at the moment.

 

IMG_5829.thumb.JPG.e6a2ea4062911a7d5bacec851f4e936e.JPG

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, charlesphoto said:

Thank you. I agree $15 isn’t much but I was putting together an order of a few cables for him so it all adds up. 

 

I do not think that the plugs matter that much in terms of SQ on either USB or Ethernet. I do like the Metz plugs on my Ghent ET02 since they locks nicely into place, but that's all.

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1 minute ago, charlesphoto said:

 

Think I might actually go for the right angle Metz after all, as long as I can determine if it will plug into the microRendu in the orientation I need. Do you know what the A/B options are on the JSSG etehernet cables? I’ll email Ghent as well.

 

Good descition! T568B is the one you want. Both will work just fine though. Just a tip! If you have a network switch. Make that cable the cable from the network switch to the streamer/PC as short as possible. Sounds better!

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9 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

I will actually be coming from a TP Link MC100 FMC. Same thinking on length?

 

Not completely sure, but I cannot see any reason why it should make a difference. A tip on FMC is to try LT3045 voltage regulators in series before the down-hill FMC. Buy LT3045 6v & LT3045 5v powered by 7 - 6.7v. Looks like this and sounds truly great.

 

IMG_6703-1.thumb.JPG.353618251988b74d039832397ddbf607.JPG

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44 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

Wondering about these. The TP-Links are 9V but I think can pretty much take anything from 5-12. And this is for the last FMC before the rendu? These are from that Alexey guy? And if I ask he’ll solder the connectors? The rest I can do. Thanks!

 

Yes, Alexey will solder everything for you if you ask him nicely. He solder those things like a pro. I can imagine that they will make a awesome contribution to the FMCs. Been there but left it behind since it did'nt compare to wireless adapter/Aqvox switch/copper ethernet. I can imagine that that those voltage regulators makes all the difference since they will reduce leakage into the down-hill FMCs.

If I am wrong I would not hesitate to buy the LT3045s from you!

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37 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

 

Do you think I could go with a single 1A LT3045 set to 9V vs a series? Trying to save a few $ here and there (still have the rendu 1.4 board upgrade at the top of the list) and would like to put in couple of these in different places (office FMC as well). Thanks, CP

 

Yes, the LT3045s works nicely in single as well. The additional LT3045 in series just reduce noise a little further. Just mind that the LT3045s needs drop-down voltage. If you keep the drop-down to 0.7v - 1v they will not even get warm IME. 

BTW. I have plans to try the LT3045s in series with one board on each side of the DC cable instead of directly in series at the powered device. It will be interesting to see if that improves it further? I am just waiting for additional plugs and sockets to get that project going.

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9 minutes ago, tboooe said:

Thank you!  I am going to try this with my FMC.  Do I need to specify the output voltage I want?  If I can supply a 9v input, I assume I will need to get one that drops the voltage from 9 to something like 8v then the second one to 7v?  I don't see those values though as available.

 

Your welcome! ?

Yes, you'll need to specify the output voltage you want. You can send Alexey message to see what he has available. Note that there is both 500mA boards and 1A boards. You'll need to check what your FMCs requires. 

Yes, If your FMCs is fine with 7v you set the PSU to 9v and use LT3045s with 8v and 7v in series.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

Ok, I think I’m starting to get this. If I want to do only one 1A board for my 9V .6A FMC, then set the PSU to 10V (HDPLEX adjustable), and the LT3045 10V in. With a 9V iFI for the office FMC, set to 9V in and don’t worry about the drop out. 

 

Thanks for all of the great info!

 

Your welcome! ?

Remember that the LT3045 requires minimum 0.7v drop-down. You cannot power a 9v LT3045 with 9v iFi since there is no drop-down voltage. A 9v LT3045 needs to be powered by minimum 9,7v. 

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27 minutes ago, sima66 said:

I need to split one 5V DC lead from Hynes PS to supply 3 components. 

Any thought for the triple splited DC cable?

 

 

If you want a DIY Canare 4S6 version this way is quite simple. Just get 2 pcs 4 way (or 5 way) quick lock terminal block instead of my 3 way ditto.

 

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All positive wires to one terminal block and all negative wires to the other.

 

https://www.google.se/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.banggood.com%2Fthumb%2Fwater%2Foaupload%2Fbanggood%2Fimages%2FEA%2FF4%2F54dc4ba2-81f2-4fc2-b2d2-21c43d1a0043.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.banggood.com%2F5Pcs-235-Pins-Reusable-Spring-Lever-Terminal-Block-Electric-Cable-Wire-Connector-p-1103030.html&docid=4S26XLEAqLtDyM&tbnid=ARKrE13Mr8JZDM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwji_ojIq7TXAhXLZ1AKHcruDcYQMwhtKBcwFw..i&w=600&h=600&client=tablet-android-google&bih=960&biw=600&q=cable terminal block&ved=0ahUKEwji_ojIq7TXAhXLZ1AKHcruDcYQMwhtKBcwFw&iact=mrc&uact=8

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1 hour ago, sima66 said:

I will use DIY Canare 4SE6 cable.

Do you think that 8 wires will fit into one hole......if I order two way only?

Does anyone know what is the connecting material inside of the terminal block?

 

The Wago connectors that I've got fits 4 Canare 4S6 wires, not more.

 

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However, there might be other versions with bigger holes around. Not completely sure though.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

Your description of the custom cable suggest that all bases have been covered but have couple of questions...

 

1) Is it not better to have the 4 data conductors twisted and then shielded rather than D+ separate from D-?  (same with 5V and GND)

2) what was the length of the original 30Eu ($35USD) cable?

 

1) They are separate! The GND & 5v is in one shield. The Data- and Data+ is in the other separate shield. The JSSG loop is soldered to all 4 shield ends and are not in contact with bare wires or plugs.

2) 50cm

 

?

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12 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

Thanks.  Misunderstood "the four shield ends" as being 4 shield rather than 4 ends (of 2 shields) so design makes sense.

 20cm probably keeps it fairly flexible which is good thing.

 

Does gold/silver or even plain silver offer measured advantage for USB transmission vs copper?  I understand that silver is better than conductor than copper but, of the three, gold is the worst.  Or, is gold there to prevent silver corrosion>

 

No problem! ? It is 50cm, not 20cm. It is not as flexible as normal USB cables due to the construction, but it is surely flexible enough (it is more flexible at a one direction and less flexible at the other direction).

 

I have used Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite before. It uses Mundorf gold/silver wires for Data and Audience wires for GND+5v. I like the sound of the Mundorf gold/silver wires. That's basically why I want them, plus that the Mundorf is silver cables with gold plating which makes the sound more full. Pure silver on positive wires can sound too thin in my own experience. Pure silver wires for negative is knowledge I have gained through grounding experiments during many years plus also via different cables using gold for positive and silver for negative wires that usually sounds great. In the end this is a cable that I pick the things that I beleive in to make it a optimized version of the basic one. I cannot say for sure if it will improve much, but I beleive it will! ?

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