The true experimental tweak thread

[mozes]

I just checked out Elijah Audio website, interesting approach to usb cables. In my setup I use 3 usb cables, so I think I will order one from Elijah and see how it is constructed and how it sounds. If It makes a difference for the better then I may build two more myself after figuring out where to get the material.

 

 

 

Thanks now I got it!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[mozes]

This is how I have moved to my preferred cable after the Vbus1 (preferred Vbus2). My Regen link does'nt look that good now after a bunch of experiments with it to figure out how I wanted it in the end. Now when I know what sounds best in my setup I ordered a new one in shortest possible lenght! ?

 

If you want to use that cable on the spot where you are using the Vbus2 right now you should e-mailed to [email protected] and ask for a Konvertible Lite without 5v lead and send my picture as a reference (see my earlier post on this thread with my coming 115mm USB cable) in the exact size you'll need (but remember shorter is better).

If you want it elsewere you might want the Konvertible Lite with the DC female socket on the 5v lead the other way around (ie. at the USB B end) so you can use a power injection directly into the plug. Just a thought if you order! ?

Thanks Cornan for the advice. I will do exactly as you suggested ?

[mozes]

Here is the first review of the Aqvox switch-8

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/showthread.php?p=644680

Router and Ethernet Switch suggestions

 

Looks very promising indeed @moussaobeid! Al Jones is very trustable IMO.

They were delaying my shipment as they were waiting for an EU to US adapter plug so I told them to ship it and I have some lying around. I am not 100% comfortable using an adapter on the power supply.

[mozes]

I will be trying my TP-Link battery pack when I get it, lets see if their PS beats the battery?

 

Bummer! I hope you receive it soon. You've got something to look forward to in any case! [emoji4][emoji1360]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[mozes]

I am getting frustrated with the TP-Link WR802n as a wireless bridge, it keeps disconnecting even without losing power or anything. ASUS was by far more reliable but it needs 19V!!

 

Any suggestions to a good low powered reliable router that can be used as a bridge and powered by a battery?

[mozes]

Thanks for your suggestions @Cornan. I was almost going to order this portable router which has its own battery and looks very interesting! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21BN97ZLZ79FQ&psc=1

 

Then I worked a bit on my TP-link bridge, I have three devices that I am confused of which one should I use to fix the IP:

-Nimitra

-TP-WR802n bridge

-Asus RT-AC3100 main router

 

I decided to focus on the bridge, so I disabled the DHCP and assigned a fixed IP address 192.168.1.237. Then I added a fixed IP on the DHCP of the Asus main router 192.168.1.237, pls see pictures of my settings on the bridge and main router. I still see that the Nimitra has a different IP address 192.168.1.235 and this changes when I reboot the main ASUS router

 

 

 

I think there is something I am missing to get a fixed IP address to my Nimitra

 

@moussaobeid

Here is a list of routers approved by Auralic

 

Approved Models:

 

Netgear Nighthawk*AC1900

Netgear Nighthawk AC1750

ASUS RT-AC68U

ASUS RT-AC66U

Linksys EA6900 AC1900

 

I have'nt checked if any of these works with 5v input voltage...but I doubt it.

 

I know that this Asua EA-N66 wireless bridge is used my many CA members https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZT23ZE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza which have a 5v power supply according to this page thinkbroadband :: Asus EA-N66 Wireless Gigabit Ethernet Adapter review. It seems that this model have different types of power supplies when Google around, so I would double check it before order. It is a discontinued model, but still available and have got good reviews.

[mozes]

I already have the ASUS RT-AC66U and it was a great bridge but this needs 19v and has a special very thin connector that I can't use any LPS. I am still trying to avoid an Isolation transformer in my music room because of the hum issues

[mozes]

Thanks Cornan, I got it to work now with the static IP on the bridge only. Anyway, to be on the safe side, I ordered the Asus EA-N66, I found it refurbished on ebay for $39.99 ASUS EA-N66 Dual-Band Wireless-N900, 3 in 1 Access Point/Repeater/Gigabit Ethern | eBay.

The signal strength on my bridge shows 51db (2.4Ghz), not very high I guess

 

 

Personally I would only set a static IP and DHCP disabled on the TP-Link nano router only and use automatic IP and DHCP enabled on the Asus router. The Nimitra must have a IP address of its own. This applies to any other network device in the network. If two devices uses identical IP address you will end up with problems.

When I set the IP address for my RE450 I use the currently automatic IP address used by the RE450 as the static IP.

[mozes]

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation @austinpop

 

That's what I wanted to know to get a full picture of my network. I set a static IP address to my bridge now and it is working As you mentioned, I entered the static IP of the bridge in my browser and I can access my bridge settings, waw I love it!

 

Hi @moussaobeid -

 

So you want your Nimitra to have a fixed IP?

 

Here's the way to look at it:

• Your entire home network is a range from 192.168.1.1 to 255
  
• Your router is the gateway. It has a fixed IP on your home network, usually 192.168.1.1
  
• You should run your DHCP server on the router, and you can configure a range - say 192.168.1.50-150 of addresses to manage for devices that want a DHCP assigned address. You can change this range to be bigger or smaller, BTW.
  
• On your device, if it allows it, you can just set a static address, but make sure you pick an IP that is outside the DHCP range. Also, if you go static, then you have to be responsible for not assigning the same address to multiple devices.
  
• For intermediate devices like bridges, NASes, etc, that have a web UI for management, I prefer to set static addresses so I can bookmark their UI in my browser.
  

 

So keeping that in mind:

1. On your Asus router, which is the DHCP server, figure out what your DHCP range is.
   
2. Give your TP-Link bridge a static IP address that is outside the DHCP range. BTW - what you posted in your picture is where you turn DHCP off on your bridge. This is not where you set its static IP. That is probably up in the Network -> LAN pane.
   
3. On your Nimitra, just use the Windows adapter settings > TCP/IP v4 setting to assign it the static IP you want. Again - make sure it is outside the DHCP range.
   

 

That should be all you need to do.

[mozes]

The TP-WR802n has only 2.4Ghz

[mozes]

I received today the Asus EA-N66, looks nice and work like a breeze but it turned out that it needs 12V with 1A to work, so no battery!

Anyway, no waste I tried it as a bridge to my laptop in the basement and I got twice the speed of the built-in wifi so I am keeping it.

Wish they make 12v batteries

[mozes]

They do, go to the Home Depot they seem all sorts of mini 12 volt car like batteries for <$40. Radio shack does too.

 

I will go check it out then, thanks @Imitche

[mozes]

Yes that's another way to do it, when I have some time, I will most likely get a "good cheapo" 12v LPS and test the ASUS against TP-Link 802N with the battery. I have the Acoustic Revive RLI-1 isolator, so will see which one solution I will prefer.

 

I use a 12 volt el cheapo with mine. An EMOsystems isolator provides isolation to the PC.

[mozes]

So having 4 batteries around and I am only using one, I thought of finding ways to use the other ones. One idea that I got inspired with after reading other threads here on CA is to try and power the SSD directly by a good LPS or a battery.

My SSD is 1TB and needs 5v at 1.4A so I will be doing this experiment as I have the right cable to use, pics attached.

I want to work on the cable a bit before I plug it inside the PC to minimize EMI/RFI by shielding it as you can see that this is a cheapo one without any shield or sleeve.

 

Any ideas or advice on where to start? I have one sheet of Stillpoints ERS cloth that I got some time for experimentation purposes but have never used it so far

[mozes]

Difficult to help you with shielding without seeing the inviroment it will be installed into. Shielding is all about implementation...and I am all against over-shielding stuff. Ofcource you can wrap it all in ERS paper, but IMO less is more with shielding and I would personally prefer to drain a copper shield to a grounding box to make sure that the EMI/RFI leave the sensitive inviroment instead of just being blocked/trapped inside. It will however be an expensive solution. Remember that distance is an excellent way of reducing the need of shielding. Installing the SSD in a aluminium HDD case outside the PC can for example be a good idea.

Hmmm, installing the SSD outside the PC, I like this idea

[mozes]

Thanks @Cornan, this is great stuff, This external enclosure gives me flexibility and I like the idea of having my SSD outside the PC case. Whether it will sound better, we will see, but even if it doesn't, doing this experiment is a lot of fun

 

 

 

 

I think you´ll need something like this or similar/better to get a project like that going:

1. https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-External-Solid-State-Enclosure/dp/B00P1S5IWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1489580569&sr=1-4&keywords=SATA%2BIII%2BExternal%2BSolid%2BState%2BDrive%2BEnclosure&th=1

2. https://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/external_sata_port.html

 

...except vibration control (damping feets, platform etc).

 

Ofcourse you´ll need to check if these actually fits your specific SSD and PC before a purchase!

[mozes]

I tried to power it with the battery and it worked for 5 min then it lost signal and the lights kept on blinking on and off. I then plugged the power adapter and it worked fine, it seems that the battery doesn't have enough juice for more than a couple of minutes, but I will try again with a fully charged battery as well

 

 

 

@moussaobeid

Before run and order a battery pack you could check with Asus support if the Asus can be powered with 5v as well. For example TP-Link MC100CM comes with 9v supply but works with 5v supply. Since different versions are out there there is a slim chance that it can actually be powered with a 5v battery supply as well. Could be worth checking out anyway! 

 

According to specs it consumes 12w (12v/1A). If you have a 5v/2,4A battery pack like the TP-Link Vivid it is also 12w, so it is not far off to assume it will work. Best to check to be 100% sure though!

[mozes]

Exciting stuff, Keep us posted! You should be the head of product development for some audio company

 

That´s the spirit!

 

You´ll never know for sure until you´ve tried. My volume control for my secondary setup just got changed from the DIY version posted earlier to a small device with these parts:

 

2x in-line attenuators (which I already own):

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34058[/ATTACH]

 

...and one of each of these adapters:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]34059[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]34060[/ATTACH]

Will it be as good as the volume attenuator control? I don't know until I've tried!

[mozes]

I received two cables today. The 15cm Chord C-Lite optical cable and the special made 11,5cm Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite with dual runs of Mundorf gold silver.

 

[ATTACH]34066[/ATTACH]

 

After my standard electrical tape treatment of the K-Lite I changed out my previous standard K-Lite 160.

 

[ATTACH]34067[/ATTACH]

 

Listening right now and immediately noticed that I could turn up the volume a couple of notches and got improved timbre and attack. I will continue to listen some more, but I have already decided that I am not sending it back. Very happy with it! [emoji4]

 

Since my Oehlbach DAC Edition 40 is delayed I cannot try the C-Lite just yet. I hate to wait. Second TP-Link switch delayed as well. Aaargh! [emoji31]

 

Sweet enjoy listening

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[mozes]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

Just a quick update. I received the Oehlback DAC Edition 40 on friday.

I Immediately connected everything like this.

Looking like this when hidden.

Unfortunately I immediately run into problems. It seems that the Oehlbach is not happy powered with my TP-Link Vivid powerbank. After a short while I´ll get a loud "wobbling" sound in my active speakers. Connecting it with the supplied SMPS style charger takes this perculiour sound away. Hmmm?

Furthermore, I get a constant "ticking" sound when no music is playing (only when stopped and not when paused). This is very obvious when the active speakers are set on high volume. No ticking sound without the DAC. To rule the TRS to XLR cables out I have ordered a 1,5m QED Performance Audio 40 analogue RCA>RCA cables http://www.futureshop.co.uk/qed-performance-audio-40-cable-custom-length-p-10554.html#.WM-rZTvhBPY

I will also laborate with the connections slightly so the DAC will be connected to the Ultra Isolation Transformer as well, plus look for another suitable power supply for it.

Anyway, when playing music the ticking sound is completely gone and it have made some nice overall improvements to the SQ on my low budget system. The first thing that comes to mind is that the sound is wider and details are more spacious with greater separation. An improved sence of space/3D, refined bass performance and a noticable clearer treble is more or less a sum of the improvements so far.

When I´ll get to the bottom of my ticking issues I will evaluate it further, but right now I am more and less into problem solving phase. Wish me luck!  

Oh BTW. The RCA attenuators was a no go. They produce a humming noice even when connected to the RCA output. I will retry them again when I receve my QED cable.

Hi Cornan, I am still trying to find my way to my subscribed threads and navigate the new CA. I miss the iOS app big time!

I tried before the chromcast and never liked it, sound feels lifeless and very thin so it is collecting the dust in my of my drawers. I actually thought it is not worth fiddling with it as my Samsung TV does a better job as a renderer of my Jriver server.

Quick update from me

I have received the AQVOX switch and still haven't had a chance to plug it as I am planning a major reorganization of my system and want to do it all in one go. I also ordered a 12v rechargeable battery from Ebay so this will take some time, but for now I am using the TP-link bridge with great success after moving my main router a bit closer to the music room. 

I also installed Process Lasso on my laptop to test it and I enjoyed a nice boost in sound quality using the BitSum Highest Performance power profile. I will soon install it on Nimitra.

[mozes]

13 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Hi Moussa!

Same for me. I am struggeling to understand the new CA and miss the CA iOS app a lot right now. I guess I will get use to it eventually though!

I am just curious how much good sound that is possible to get with the CCA. A friend of mine (the only one with a interest in hifi) came by on saturday and had a listen to it. He was really surpriced by the SQ that came out of my fairly cheap CCA setup. I am still not confident that I will keep it in the long run, but it is fun to see just how far you can get with a small amount of money!

Process Lasso is great! It made a nice sq improvement during my JplayStreamer/Fidelizer Pro setup as well. Just a word of advice. Do not be tempted to alter the settings too much on Process Lasso. IMO BitSum Highest Performance is the best setting there is. Set & forget. 

Looking forward to hear your impressions with the Aqvox switch when everything else is on track!

Yes Cornan, It is interesting to find out what you can squeeze out of that tiny box. For Process Lasso, I exchanged a few emails with Jeremy and he advised me to use BitSum Highest Performance for audio Playback and not to play with the settings and this is what I did, actually this is what I wanted

[mozes]

I just plugged in my AQVOX audiophile switch. I only listened to one track as a quick test, I got some improvement but not as I expected as the sound was already amazing with my setup (battery powered TP link bridge with Acoustic Revive ethernet isolator ). Initial impression is there is more weight to all the notes and a bit more relaxed sound. This was without grounding it, but then I grounded it to my cheapo Ebay grounding box and WAWWW! simply the transparency that I got is amazing, more decay to the notes and vocals are crystal clear.

Key learning: If you use this switch, it is a must that you ground it or at least try it, it literally transformed the switch and took it to another level.

I wish I grounded my cheap $30 switch before, so you may need to try grounding your switches first before buying anything. I am using the SMPS power supply, didn't experiment with anything else

[mozes]

@Cornan as per your recommendation to contact Michael at Elijah Audio, I actually proceeded and ordered two 15 cm cables, see attached pics, they should be here in another week or 10 days. The first one is exactly like your cable which I intend to use between the Intona and RUR and the second one between RUR and the Brooklyn which needs 5v bus, so I will test using an LPS-1 and a battery to have some fun there and see how it goes. Ultimately I know I will be getting either the upcoming  Uptone Iso Regen or the Sotm USB Ultra depending on the feedback to simplify the usb chain

[mozes]

Just now, austinpop said:

@moussaobeid @Cornan

 

So where in the end to end chain have you experimented with grounding boxes?

 

I know you've probably mentioned it in previous threads/posts, but thought I'd just ask.

I have so far 2 grounding boxes, The first one is connected to both my Nimitra chassis and the AQVOX switch chassis. I just got today the second box and I connected it to the Brooklyn phono ground which is connected to chassis. I will listen to it tomorrow with and without to see if it makes a difference.

 

This is the link for the grounding box http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322437668897?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[mozes]

24 minutes ago, austinpop said:

@moussaobeid

 

And how long in days did the 2 boxes take in shipping?

 

Wondering whether to spring for DHL.

It took around 10-12 days to Toronto, so most probably less time to the US