The true experimental tweak thread

[austinpop]

7 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

In my system local files always sound better than Tidal, I confirmed this with some friends who joined me for a listening session. We ripped one CD and played it and then we listened to the same album on Tidal. Local is much better. I also compared many other tracks I have with Tidal streaming. Local is always the winner.

After my latest tweaks with battery powered bridge and AQVOX switch and isolation transformer and an LPS on my main router and using Bubble DS Next, Tidal is now very very close to my local music but still not there

 

 

Moussa,

 

Since your DAC, the Brooklyn, is an MQA DAC, what has been your experience with Tidal Masters content after full MQA decode?

 

Although - that is probably off-topic.

[austinpop]

2 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

I have an MQA dac that I want to use, but I can't manage with the desktop app as I run Nimitra headless.

 

Hmm yeah that's a shame. You really should be exploiting MQA. I wish I had a Brooklyn!

 

At this point, the only headless solution I'm aware of that will pass-through MQA content from Tidal is Roon Core. But maybe there are others. I would hope that Bubble DS would soon pass through MQA  content (currently seems to max out at 16/44.1), but no idea if this is in their roadmap.

 

Of course, your requirements are easier since you have an MQA DAC. You only need a server that will pass-through the MQA stream, whereas the rest of us with non-MQA DACs need the MQA SW decode feature too, which is very unlikely to come to Bubble DS.

 

  I should get a commission from Roon today - I seem to be making sales for them!

 

[austinpop]

8 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

I haven't really done a proper extended comparison with and without MQA. My initial impression is that MQA definitely sounds better than non MQA tracks, bigger sound stage and more air around instruments. I still prefer my locally stored music. Keep in mind I haven't listened to MQA tracks after my network optimizations.

Overall the well recorded DSD albums that I have sound absolutely gorgeous and I am very confident to say that they are better than MQA but I know that this maybe apples to oranges 

 

Yeah, I agree if you have well recorded high-res local content, it would be a very pleasant surprise indeed if an MQA version would beat that. I would have to hear it for myself to believe it.

 

For me, the allure of Tidal/MQA is for content I don't own locally. Also, a secondary benefit of MQA encoding that I'm seeing on Tidal is that these MQA albums appear, in many case, to also have benefited from a remastering, so the SQ improvement is improved on multiple fronts. I just don't know if it's enough for me to replace a not-inexpensive DAC I already own and love just for MQA. That's the line I won't cross yet.

 

So for me, SW decoding via Roon would be just peachy!

[austinpop]

8 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

Hmm I think I will try Room to see what it is all about. I can get a trial license

 

Yeah see what you think. I'm neither a hater nor a cheerleader.

 

You would install it as headless (Roon Core) on your Nimitra, and install the full version on a different machine for control.

[austinpop]

24 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

Good you told me, I am a complete ignorant about Roon,

 

So I will install the full version on my laptop and Roon Core on my Nimitra, lets see how it will go. I am only interested in how they integrate Tidal

 

Exactly.

 

Even though you only want the Control on your laptop, they package it as a full install. After install, when you run it, it will ask you if you want to use it as a control app.

 

So - install the Core first, then the control.

[austinpop]

So guys, I went ahead and ordered a couple of the Aucharm grounding boxes. The eBay seller gave me a good price on a pair.

 

I need to update my diagrams, and will post, with some ideas on where I will try the grounding. Your thoughts and advice will be welcomed, of course.

[austinpop]

18 hours ago, Cornan said:

Preparing for my 10 day China trip. I'll need atleast a little something except my portable headphone setup to keep me satisfied in the hotel room after work hours! ?

 

 

Have a good trip! 

[austinpop]

36 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks Moussa! I am in Amsterdam airport now waiting for boarding to Shanghai. I ran so quick that I even had time to treat myself! ?

 

 

 

 

Sweet! Or I should say - smoky!!

 

I love Islay's, although I am partial to Talisker myself.  Will that last you ten days in China? 

[austinpop]

Sorry wait - what is CCA? Some Google Chromecast thing? 

 

I live in the iOS world, so I was thinking CCK, which is something totally different.

[austinpop]

17 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

•Haha• What the Laphroig misses in treble it catches up in bass-notes and dynamics. I do like Tallisker as well, but find it a little weak in authority! ??

 

It's a matter of overall system balance. If the rest of your system has a tendency to brightness, the Laphroiag can tame that.

 

On the other hand, if you like the Islay sound, but have a neutral system, you would be hard pressed to do better than the Lagavulin 16. Yes, it's more bucks, but you're worth it.

 

Of course, if you're cheap, you can always get the Caol Ila, but how could you look yourself in the mirror the next day?

 

[austinpop]

Clearly, a correlation exists between appreciating high-end audio and fine single malts. 

 

@Cornan - can't wait to hear what "tweaks" you have in mind for your Laphroiag.

[austinpop]

1 hour ago, Al Jones said:

I'm currently working on a Talisker 25, Ardbeg Lord of the Isles 25 and a particularly stunning Caol Ila 30.

 

Nice "work" if you can get it!

[austinpop]

Have you guys seen this review of CAD grounding products? I'm guessing these are very expensive! http://www.hifiplus.com/articles/stand-your-ground

 

I just got back from an extended weekend getaway to Napa and San Francisco - ah the joys of empty nesting! - and waiting on my doorstep this morning were the Aucharm grounding boxes! These are the "Special Edition" boxes, where the tourmaline is infused with 白酒.

 

Just kidding. 

 

It'll take me a couple of days to get to them, but will post impressions ASAP.

[austinpop]

Hey @Cornan

 

I just started my grounding box experiments last night. Before I say if I'm hearing a difference yet, help me understand what the appropriate attachment points are for the crocodile clips, that are currently the only terminators I have.

 

I just checked, and none of my components have an actual ground post or screw on the chassis. So what would be good attach points? My experiments so far:

1. Amp: clip to outer barrel of input RCA jack
2. DAC: clip to outer barrel of output RCA jack
3. Desktop computer chassis: clip to any metallic spot on back panel of the tower?
4. USB port: plug in a little USB cable - attached to nothing on the other end, then clip to the outer metallic shield of the exposed plug?
5. RJ-45 port - any ideas?
6. Chassis - general. For DACs, amps, switches, accessories etc, what's the best spot on the chassis to clip to?

For reference, here are my latest system diagrams.

 

First, the network chain:

 

 

And then, the audio chain:

 

[austinpop]

Reposting my topologies with a white background to play nice with preview apps.

 

 

[austinpop]

25 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Hi Rajiv!

A lot of fun ahead of you now! ?

 

**A chassi screw is not only a GND screw. It is also a mounting screw that is holding the chassi together. You need to loosen one slightly that is attached to the inner metal chassi and clip it on to the small screw head. These small screws are usually found in the outer corners in the back of the units.

 

RE: 1, 2 & 4

Yes, all correct!

 

RE: 3 & 6

See previous ** for best use on chassis. 

 

RE: 4

You can for example use a chepeo Cat5 network cable. Cut it off in one end, strip the wires and attach the crocodile clip to the GND wires (pin 4 & 5). For better results you can order a screw terminal RJ45 plug and attach short silver wires to the GND terminals and attach the crocodile clip to the bare wires. Remember that grounding is best used with silver wires, but high quality copper wires is also good. High gauge is not necessarily better, but high purity metal is important for best result. Also a firm fit of the connector matters.

Here is the wire I use with good results http://www.ebay.com/itm/231487691078 that works with RJ45s as well.

 

Looking at your spagetti image I would personally try the TP-Link router (USB) & Cavalli amp (RCA or chassi screw) as my primary targets.

 

Remember to experiment and have fun! ?

 

Good luck! Looking forward to your impressions. ?

 

 

 

Fun indeed! 

 

Great - you've confirmed what I had already identified as the primary spots, as well as my methodology. I will additionally try it on the Codex (RCA jack) as well as the W10 box (free USB port).

[austinpop]

8 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

IME it can be a little tricky to find the perfect grounding spot on computers. Do not give up if the first spot does´nt improve sq. It is worth while trying several spots (several chassi points, several USB ports, ethernet ports etc) on computers to find out where it makes the best overall improvements. In general I would say that a pc is best grounded via ac safety ground pin (wall outlet or power strip where the PCs psu is connected to) or chassi ground (try different spots). If you know where the common ground is connected in your computer you want to ground it on or as close to that spot as possible for best result.

 

Thanks for the pointers. These tips will come in handy. 

 

BTW - the seller forgot to include an US AC plug terminated ground cable in my order as I'd requested, so it is still on its way. Once it arrives, I can try the AC ground.

[austinpop]

9 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

Why wait, Shouldn't be too hard to build it yourself

 

I am hopeless with a soldering iron - and don't own one anyway.

 

i do have a spool of extra cable from the seller, so if there are screw-on banana plugs and AC plugs available, I could "build" that. ?

[austinpop]

4 hours ago, moussaobeid said:

Hi @austinpop and @Cornan

For the Amp and Dac are you referring to the RCA that is carrying the signal or a spare one? The reason I ask is that I have only tried the spare RCA IN on the Brooklyn and never tried the grounding cable on the RCA OUT that is connected to my amp. I was worried something may go wrong  this is only possible with the crocodile tip

 

I too was thinking of spare jacks, in general. But now that you mention it, I'm not sure there is any problem grounding a jack in use. Shouldn't be.

[austinpop]

On 4/6/2017 at 5:28 PM, austinpop said:

Reposting my topologies with a white background to play nice with preview apps.

 

 

 

@Cornan, @moussaobeid

 

Very limited results with the grounding boxes. Refer to my topology pictures above. Since I have 2 boxes, my methodology was:

• start from the end of my chain at the amp, identify the first grounding point that makes an improvement. Leave grounding box there
• Continue backward with 2nd box until improvement.
• I could not try connecting to any AC outlets until I get my AC ground cables.

 

I got a very modest improvement at the amp (RCA input jack), which I replicated at the DAC RAC output jack too. I had to listen many times to hear this, so it was subtle. It just seemed lo make the image a bit larger, and a bit more separation between instruments.

 

After that, I'm afraid I got no further improvement with the 2nd box. I tried attaching to - 

• sMS-200 USB
• W10 box 
  • chassis
  • USB
• Router (USB)

 

None of these helped at all. In part, I see this as good news, as it means my system is already pretty well isolated from leakage loops.

 

I will retry in a few weeks after the power ground cables get here. Plus - my sMS-200 is going back to SOtM for some mods, so I'll be back on my Aries Mini for a few weeks too.

[austinpop]

Hey guys - 

 

Do you have a link to the "el cheapo" Chinese silver DC cables on eBay? For some reason, my searches are not locating any.
 

[austinpop]

Ah thanks. Has anyone tried this themselves?

 

[austinpop]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

Nope, but I've been watching them on eBay if I might need them in the future! Looks well made! ? 

These ones http://www.ebay.es/itm/131847624330 however I own myself and sounds great. They might do shorter lengths if you ask them nicely (original is 60cm from top to tip).?

 

Nice. Thanks for the pointers!

[austinpop]

As you guys know, I'm not a DIY cable guy, but I do know the science. 

 

To measure current, you either put an ammeter in series (it needs to be able to handle the range you care about - in this case, up to 5A DC), or you place a known resistance in series, and measure the voltage across it.

 

Now, assuming your multimeter can handle that range, and since it looks like your probe wires plug into the meter with come kind of jack, what about just building custom cables:

• DC 5.5.x2.1 barrel female to male (whatever goes into your MM)
• Male MM jack to DC 5.5x2.1 male 

Or so goes the theory at least.

 

 

[austinpop]

2 minutes ago, moussaobeid said:

Thanks @austinpop, yes my multimeter can handle the range, it is always good to start with science

I think I will build one based on @Cornan image, very neat and handy that I can just plug in anywhere I need it.

 

 

Go for it. But remember to use a current meter, not a voltage.

 

Although, I still wonder - why not use your existing multimeter? It seems perfectly capable. You just need to adapt the 5.5/2.1 to the multimeter's jacks.

 

Either way - I am curious to know your current measurements once you get it working.