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Power Cord to Pair with PS Audio Digital Link III (DLIII)


cg27288

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Hello,

 

I've had my DLIII for several months now and am quite pleased with it.

 

I just noticed that the manufacturer, PS Audio, says in the manual that it recommends a different power cord than what was included in the box (which seems strange to me but whatever).

 

That being said, are there any cords under $150 that would make any difference in the sound quality? Or is it simply a matter of dropping $300-$500 (which ain't gonna happen).

 

Thoughts? Thanks very much!

 

Chris

MacBook Pro (Early 2011) --> Monoprice UBS Cable ----> MUSICAL FIDELITY - V-LINK 192 USB TO COAX CONVERTER --> PS Audio Digital Link III DAC --> Onkyo SR608 Receiver --> KEF 3500SE Speakers.

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Chris:

 

This is a controversial subject. Objectivists versus the Subjectivists. I think both views have merit and both views are valid, although at the end of the day I lean just slightly more toward Subjectivist. No big deal and Mayhem's view is as valid as anyone elses.

 

Some good commentary regarding Objectivist and Subjectivist can be found here (I think the author has it right and shares my view):

http://www.affordableaudio.org/aa2009-08.pdf

 

 

Objectivists believe that Subjectivists are hearing what the want to hear and have expectation bias. However, the same can be said of the pure Objectivist camp, namely, they don't believe there is a difference so they are similarly biased in a way that may not allow them to hear a difference.

 

Me, I decided to figure out for myself and make up my own mind. I have personally conducted a lot of comparisons between power cables. It takes a lot of time and money and is not necessarily a fun experience, but one that I think is worthwhile.

 

In my view, power cables absolutely can influence the sound of your system for better or worse. Whether it is better or worse is 100% up to you to find out.

 

When comparing power cables, I find it very difficult to distinguish between certain models to the point where I could hear no difference. However, for other models, the differences are definitely audible (which is not to say I was "blown away" by the difference, just that the difference was absolutely audible and made it easy to determine which power cable sounded better to me, in my particular system). The differences exist, and when the do exist it may not be "night and day" different, but it will still be enough difference that you may want to spend some money on a particular cable.

 

My personal findings are that sometimes cheap cables sound better than expensive ones, so you cannot always assume more expensive is better. It is entirely system dependent. You need to have a firm grasp on the sound of your system, then determine if adjustments to that sound are needed. If so, you simply experiment to find the power cable that tweaks the sound of your system in a way you enjoy. Some power cables have a darker sound, some a brighter sound. I use power cables as tone controls, and view any power cable marketing that claims that their cable is "entirely transparent and neutral" as an exaggeration.

 

Finally, some view any positive professional review of a power cable as being suspect. While some reviewers may be in bed with power cable companies that generate advertizing revenue for them, I think those reviewers are the exceptions to the rule. I believe most reviews are legitimate. As the Kinks song goes, "Paranoia Self Destroya".

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Pacific 2 | Viva Linea | Constellation Inspiration Stereo 1.0 | FinkTeam Kim | dual Rythmik E15HP subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 3 | Viva Egoista | Abyss AB1266 Phi TC 

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Hello,

 

I've had my DLIII for several months now and am quite pleased with it.

 

I just noticed that the manufacturer, PS Audio, says in the manual that it recommends a different power cord than what was included in the box (which seems strange to me but whatever).

 

That being said, are there any cords under $150 that would make any difference in the sound quality? Or is it simply a matter of dropping $300-$500 (which ain't gonna happen).

 

Thoughts? Thanks very much!

 

Chris

 

Two things. First I do believe in the benefits of good quality power cords. Secondly PS Audio is a manufacturer of after market power cables along with power conditions and DACs along with a few other products. So, naturally and not too surprisingly, they would recommend an after market cable and I am sure they would prefer it be theirs. For around $150 I would recommend the Shunyata Venom 3 power cable.

"A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open."
Frank Zappa
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Yes....the one that came with it. Avoid the Koolaid!

 

Keep you contacts clean and your behind the scenes wiring tidy.....reduce parallel runs and keep power and signal seperates as much as possible.

 

agree after years of changing cords, cables I actually and honestly could never tell the difference, BUT to each their own and everyone should experiment. I do know that if you have an electrician audit of your AC power and grounding, tighten connections and it's a lot cheaper than expense power cords and it does provide a peace of mind that your AC is in fact clean.. As they say; "Garbage in garbage out"

The Truth Is Out There

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You could give The Cable Company a call. They maintain a database which highlights cables people have liked with particular equipment. Additionally, they offer a loan period with cables you choose to audition. For each cable you check out you pay 10% of the cable cost. The fee can then be applied toward the purchase of a cable (or anything else they sell) should you decide there is a benefit. It's a pretty low cost way to decide for yourself.

Nvidia ION running JRiver 21 on Win 7

- USB to Firestone Audio Bravo USB to SPDIF Converter. Optical to miniDSP NanoDigi eq/crossover. SPDIF to 2 Cambridge Audio DacMagics. Analogue to Audio Refinement Pre-5 to 2 M&K V-75 powered subwoofers & Audio Refinement Multi-2 power amp to Focal Chorus 716s.

- Intel NUC on Win 10 as JRiver 21 DLNA renderer. USB to Breeze Audio DU-U8 USB to SPDIF converter. SPDIF to Anthem MRX-520. Mirage OMD-5: left, right & surrounds. Mirage OMD-C1: center. SVS-SB-2000: subwoofer.

- Raspberry Pi2 with HifiBerry Dac+Pro on Volumio DLNA renderer to Rega Mira 3 to Dali Zensor 1s.

- Raspberry Pi2 with HifiBerry Dac+Standard on Volumio DLNA renderer to NAD 312 to PSB Alphas.

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I agree totally with Chris. You need to listen for yourself. I hear differences among many cords.

 

I will say this, changing my outlet to a Furutech one was highly beneficial and costs around $200. BUT BE CAREFUL PLAYING WITH ELECTRICITY OR HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN.

- Mark

 

Synology DS916+ > SoTM dCBL-CAT7 > Netgear switch > SoTM dCBL-CAT7 > dCS Vivaldi Upsampler (Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 Dual 110 Ohm AES/EBU > dCS Vivaldi DAC (David Elrod Statement Gold power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 xlr > Absolare Passion preamp (Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 xlr > VTL MB-450 III (Shunyata King Cobra CX power cords) > Nordost Valhalla 2 speaker > Kaiser Kaewero Classic /JL Audio F110 (Wireworld Platinum power cord).

 

Power Conditioning: Entreq Olympus Tellus grounding (AC, preamp and dac) / Shunyata Hydra Triton + Typhoon (Shunyata Anaconda ZiTron umbilical/Shunyata King Cobra CX power cord) > Furutec GTX D-Rhodium AC outlet.

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