Lush^2 - Share your configuration experiences

[tims]

3 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

 

 

Hi Peter / All - I'm really not trying to be obtuse here and perhaps it's me being a dumbass but I'm still struggling to understand how to tie this nomenclature back to the config. Put simply I would not have arrived at the config that @elcorso kindly provided a photo of without the photo.

 

If we assume that ALL configs start at the red dot then the underlined parts makes sense:  A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y & W-R

 

So from the red dot I start at A with Black and then Yellow. Got it. And on the B side from the red dot I also start with Black & Yellow. Yup. So far so good.

 

But continuing the A side I now have to implement "& W-R" but I would assume that White & Red come next. Instead it seems I need to jump all the way to the far side and then reverse direction and start working back in. Or does the location not matter and all that matters is which colours are connected to each other?

 

Many Thanks,

Alan

 

What helped me figure it out is referring to this diagram:

How the pins are connected are at the bottom left of the diagram above: 4 pins (positions 1,2,3,4) are connected together; with the other 2 pins (5 & 6) also connected together (but not to 1,2,3,4). 

Then its just a matter of figuring out what wires need to be joined together by using the above connector.

For A: B-Y & W-R; B: B-Y & W-R is:

A: pins 1-2 (for B-Y) & 5-6 (for W-R)

B: pins 1-2 (for B-Y) & 5-6 (for W-R)

 

For another configuration say;

A: B-Y & W-R; B: B-Y 

A: pins 1-2 (for B-Y) & 5-6 (for W-R)

B: pins 1-2 (for B-Y) with wires W&R are left hanging; not connected to anything.

 

[tims]

7 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

 

Thanks Tims,

 

Maybe it's just me but still too complicated.

 

If we assume it always starts from the red dots then would the following not be simpler:

 

A: B Y - - R W

 

Just put the colours in order and indicate which are left empty with dashes. Even a slow type like me could follow that without needing to ask for photos ?

 

Cheers,

Alan

Yes, good idea; nice and simple.

 

[tims]

Another vote for the A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y config.

I had my Lush^2 for a few days (probably 15-20 hours on it) and have tried all the configs recommended up to now but A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y sounds the best for my system so far.

Won't look at changing this (if ever) until the Lush has a 100 or so hours on it.  Some recordings are a bit bright on the top end but overall its very good.

[tims]

1 hour ago, lmitche said:

OK, so I thought i would emulate you guys and change the shielding on my Lush1 JSSG360 cable from the original A: B-Y & W-R B: B-Y & W-R to Peter´s latest configuration A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y. It took five minutes to add a layer of shrink wrap between both shields on the DAC end, and to re-shrink wrap the cable. It definitely sounded different.  Unfortunately, I didn't like it as the speakers seems to emerge rather than disappear, with a gap between them. After playing ten well known songs, I removed the shrink wrap and restored the original JSSG360 configuration. When doing so, I noticed a metal hair from the inside braid further up the cable that may have shorted things well before the endpoint. This was fixed and the shrink wrap replaced.

 

Wow, that did it! At least here, I am amazed at what A: B-Y & W-R B: B-Y & W-R does here, especially after being properly implemented. I've listened to the entire "Trinity Revisited" album from the Cowboy Junkies and it is holographic! I can't believe what I am hearing.

 

Have any of you given this config a proper breakin period on the Lush2?

 

At this point I'm afraid to change anything for fear of ruining the glorious SQ here.

 

Sorry, after you found the metal hair you went back again to A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y or back to the original JSSG360 configuration?

[tims]

10 minutes ago, frederick184 said:

I’m a little confused.  The pic shows B-W-R-Y and the description says B-W-Y-R.  Which is it?

 

Colin

I don't think it matters as all four wires are all connected together at this point.

[tims]

 

9 hours ago, lmitche said:

Cool, I can try that here without hacking the Lush1. Will do so and report back within the week.

Just trying to understand how to do this; 

On the Lush1 you would have to run (solder?) a wire from both USB plugs metal outer shell to the two 360 shields to enable the Lush1's own existing inner shield to be connected to the 360 sheilds - have I got this right?

 

 

 

[tims]

7 hours ago, lwr said:

I find your description of the SQ of this configuration to be spot on.  However, I would add that there is also a significant improvement in the specificity of the stereo image.  The effect is most dramatic on small ensemble live venue recordings.  The representation of the ambient sound field around each instrument now quite noticeable and very convincingly contributes to the impression that the actual dimensions of the recording have been transported to my listening room.  The effect, when going from one recorded venue to the next is quite striking and is the best I have heard from my system to date.  It is important to note that this improvement is much like, but greater than, the effect of having already copper weave shielded over all of the signal, network, and power cables in the equipment stack.

I second your description on the SQ improvements on Peter's new  A: B-W-Y-R, B: B-W-R configuration.  It's going to take something mighty good to get me to change this setup on the Lush^2!

[tims]

12 hours ago, lmitche said:

Lush^1.5 - Yesterday, I managed to get the seeming favorite A: B-W-Y-R  B: B-W-R  configuration working today with my Lush 1 cable and two layers of tinned copper braid. Easy to do and it indeed delivers a nice SQ improvement. We will see what happens after break-in if anything.

Hi @lmitche

I want to try this on my Lush^1.  To make use of the Lush^1 inner shield (W) did you run/solder a wire from the  USB plug metal outer shell (B) to the 360 braids (Y&R)?

Thanks

[tims]

8 minutes ago, sig8 said:

I think I know how it works, but honestly, I have not seen any clear instructions. I have the cable, i have the paper which came with it with ten diagrams, but it does not correlate to the language we are talking here. It would be nice if you added A:B-Y-R-W......, etc. to that page. At this point does not matter how it works internally, I only want to know when someone says A:B-Y & W-R..., etc. what that means. Seems like a simple thing to explain. There are four jumper wires, and six pins, so when to connect what is the question. 

A-B & W-R means A and B are connected together and W and R are connected together. On the diagram below (bottom left box) A and B would be connected to pins 1 & 2 or pins 2 & 3 etc etc and W and R would be connected to pins 5 and 6 only.

 

 

 

 

[tims]

On 1/6/2019 at 11:00 PM, PeterSt said:

 

Ha, a truly new one !

I just put it in my notes for this evening's session. I am already eager ... (new toy in the mail ).

 

On a (very) side note, the somewhat more bloated bass with the other "best" setting, A:B-W-Y-R, B:B-W-R, that bass I could get rid of only a week ago. But this is by other means (some software setting in XXHighEnd).

But might someone may want to be heading to the one and all solution, he may consider that this software setting deliberately adds HF noise to spread the remaining lower frequency noise better (think about this). Now what if we could determiner that this particular Lush^2 setting *or* allows for this more HF noise (somewhere) just the same, *or* that it diminishes remaining LF noise better. So what I should do at judging "mwah" on your finding, is go back to that other software setting and see if now the somewhat more bloated bass has gone. But I already feel it won't be a "mwah" so much and merely a revelation.

 

Thanks !!

 

 

 

 

 

Hi @PeterSt

 

Did you get a chance to try kurb1980's new configurations he likes? I intend to but I'm trialing some tweaks I've already done and don't want to try anything else as yet.

 

Thanks

[tims]

2 hours ago, bluebeat said:

Yep. Thanks @PeterSt So far so good. But what does the 'U-shaped thingy' do? Make a connection, or not? The & is that thingy, right?

I think that just covers the exposed pins to avoid damage, shorts etc?

[tims]

10 hours ago, lmitche said:

After trying Kurb's latest JSSG360 deep bass was missing. This fixed it:

 

A:.1WYR2X B:.1WYR2X

 

I'm done for now. Thanks Kurb!

 

Larry

A:.1WYR2X B:.1WYR2X

Could you please remind me again what the numbers 1 and 2 are in this configuration?  Am I correct in thinking these are two sets of jumpers (1 & 2) that are oriented at right angles to the rest of the wires (WYR etc) because they are using just one of the jumper's 'pins' for each jumper?

Thanks

[tims]

1 hour ago, elan120 said:

They both seems to offer excellent SQ, I just switched from JSSG360^3 to the latest A:1WY233 B:1WY233 few days ago, and liked it better, the only deviation is placing jumper cap on 4th pin opposite from pin-1.

A:1WY233 B:1WY233

Not sure what the "33's" are above - are they another two sets of jumpers configured ar right angles to the comb?

Thanks

[tims]

3 hours ago, PeterSt said:

 

To me it didn't feel wrong either. Btw, right now the colors go from light to strong, White, Yellow, Red. With Black as the connection to the outer world (the connector's chassis).

Bit of a problem : you'd first need to know the colors before you can apply the 1,2,3.

 

Lush^3  ?

 

Actually we have all the materials to make the additional braids en insulation layers which is related to the wider diameters of the extra layers. I could have one operational tomorrow. But then what ?

Ah, listen myself first. 🥶

 

Anyone recommend a braid to do these 'tweaks'?  The brand I have used in the past has been thick and unwieldy.

Thanks