Jump to content
IGNORED

Mytek new dac Brooklyn.


Recommended Posts

I'm loving my BK DAC, but am having a few issues, if anyone has insight:

1. playback of various (maybe all?) 24/192 files does not work. The sound is super glitchy. Everything else from mp3 to DSD works.

2. I use toslink for my TV - last night, no problem. This morning, it won't play any sound. I can see that the display shows "no lock" when the TV is off, then I turn it on and it changes to "16bit 48.0k", so it seems like it is receiving something, but, no sound. I've tried all the power down and power up in different sequences, etc, with no luck.

3. final glitch is relatively minor but worth reporting: when I switch between sources, sometimes playback on my selection is glitchy, so I switch out of it, then back to it, then it seems to settle down.

 

Most frustrating is the TV issue. OK- JUST FIXED the tv issue. I had to power down and unplug the power cord.

I have the same issues, every time I switch from one input source to another or from DSD to 24/96, etc. I just get loud static noise. I have to power off and on again and then switch from int to wick and back!

It is a bit of a pain, I do not see 1.4.2 as an available upgrade?

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
A friend of mine had been using the Vega in his high resolution audio system for some time and another had recently taken delivery of a Brooklyn, upgrading from the 192-DSD. A-B'ing them side by side with same cables, power cords, etc., and using the internal PS of the Brooklyn, our feeling was that the Brooklyn was slightly better across the board than the Vega...until we switched the Brooklyn to ANALOG preamp mode (at full gain since we were using an external preamp for volume control) from the BYPASS setting. With this change, the Brooklyn was head and shoulders better than the Vega... broader soundstage, deeper and tighter bass and a smoothing of the sound making for a much more involving listening experience without sacrifice of detail and extension. As always, YMMV!

 

I would say from what we heard that the internal power supply of the Brooklyn is really quite good but do not question what might be achieved with sound quality by going to an external linear, regulated supply which we did not have available.

 

As someone suggested, it would be nice if Mytek provided some guidance on connectivity, preferred voltage and maybe even some power supply options. From my investigation, many of these purpose-built external supplies are on the order of $500 or more and not sure I trust the $50-100 supplies from overseas.

 

I actually returned my Brooklyn Dac last week, but I am still following this thread.

FYI, I did speak directly with Michal about the specs for an external LPSU and he told me that it should be 12V and as much Amps as possible ( in his opinion the more the better),

he told me that the internal supply was 12V and 3.5A, so in his opinion, he thought at least 12V 7A, and that a 12V 15A would be even better.

He did also suggest trying a car or motorcycle battery, stating that a car battery would deliver about 1,000 Amps!

I looked at the HDPlex per another members suggestion, and it has 12V 7A in addition to having 3 additional outputs (19.5V, 9V, and a 5V), if I recall, I think it is around $325 USD.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
My ripped CDs on my SSD still sound better!

I don't think you are missing much without MQA, it's nice to have but for sure not a must

 

At least I know that I'm at least not the only person who thinks so (that SSD / HD locally stored rips (16/44 FLAC, 24/96 - 24/192, and DSD) all sound head and shoulders better to me than anything I've streamed in MQA via Tidal so far! Personally a few of them sounded actually awful to me (The regular Tidal streams of same albums even sounded better to me) and the same exact albums I have stored locally in my music server (Aurender N100H) even in just regular 16/44 FLAC sound leaps and bounds better to me??

I was wondering if it had something to do with playing via Aurender vs Tidal Desktop App, but perhaps not (MQA streams I've listened to so far all showed either 24/96 or 24/192 as the bit rate, so it was receiving the MQA).

I'll try a few more recordings to see if they're any better (I have a few 24/192 downloads from HDTracks and a few DSD downloads that all sound absolutely awful too, and a few 16/44 FLAC CD rips that sound spectacular!)

Thus, I've learned that the actual bit rate and file type of an album are far from being all that dictates how good or bad a particular album sounds.

I've definitely learned the original recording quality of the material and the dynamic range compression are much more important in regards to overall sound quality vs. if it's DSD or MQA, or HiRez.

Thus far, I'm seriously unimpressed with any of the MQA and I just keep scratching my head after reading hundreds of fellow users praise MQA from Tidal in amazement of the sound quality??

I did read that Bluesound and other platforms are only actually partially decoding MQA and not fully "unfolding it", so perhaps that is what the Aurender is doing also??

Link to comment
At least I know that I'm at least not the only person who thinks so (that SSD / HD locally stored rips (16/44 FLAC, 24/96 - 24/192, and DSD) all sound head and shoulders better to me than anything I've streamed in MQA via Tidal so far! Personally a few of them sounded actually awful to me (The regular Tidal streams of same albums even sounded better to me) and the same exact albums I have stored locally in my music server (Aurender N100H) even in just regular 16/44 FLAC sound leaps and bounds better to me??

I was wondering if it had something to do with playing via Aurender vs Tidal Desktop App, but perhaps not (MQA streams I've listened to so far all showed either 24/96 or 24/192 as the bit rate, so it was receiving the MQA).

I'll try a few more recordings to see if they're any better (I have a few 24/192 downloads from HDTracks and a few DSD downloads that all sound absolutely awful too, and a few 16/44 FLAC CD rips that sound spectacular!)

Thus, I've learned that the actual bit rate and file type of an album are far from being all that dictates how good or bad a particular album sounds.

I've definitely learned the original recording quality of the material and the dynamic range compression are much more important in regards to overall sound quality vs. if it's DSD or MQA, or HiRez.

Thus far, I'm seriously unimpressed with any of the MQA and I just keep scratching my head after reading hundreds of fellow users praise MQA from Tidal in amazement of the sound quality??

I did read that Bluesound and other platforms are only actually partially decoding MQA and not fully "unfolding it", so perhaps that is what the Aurender is doing also??

 

 

UPDATE:

Im always the first to admit when I'm wrong (and in this case perhaps also "jumped the gun" a bit too quickly), so after another long Tidal MQA listening session this Morning (while simultaneously ingesting far too much coffee:) ), these are my updated conclusions:

First, as opposed to the Rock and Pop selections I listened to yesterday that I felt sounded pretty awful, I started out this morning listening to all of the Jazz and Classical Tidal MQA albums, and I must admit, they sounded pretty damn good to me! (Especially the Charles Mingus, Duke Ellington, and Coleman albums in addition to the 2L recordings and the Bartok String Quartets).

So, I must make the conclusion, that the culprit in regards to the awful sounding Tidal MQA albums I sampled yesterday, must have been my new nemesis, formally known as Dynamic Range Compression!! I suppose the masters MQA selected for those albums yesterday must have been newer versions with heavy Dynamic Range Compression and as I had suspected prior to starting my listening session today, Jazz and Classical titles would have been much less likely to have been "poisoned" by the loudness war!

Additionally, I sampled a few more rock albums and found some that did sound very good and better than my own 16/44 FLAC rips. Specifically: All of the Smiths albums (although my rips are all from original 1980's released CD's, I have been told the new remasters from the smiths complete box set did sound better, these must be from those masters?)

Also the Chicago Transit Authority, Chicago II and Fleetwood Mac Rumors all sounded a little better than my 16/44 FLAC rips, but all three sounded worse than my DSD / SACD rips.

Thus, I will stand corrected and apologize for my hasty remarks made yesterday and conclude that just the same as my experience with downloads from HDTracks, just because something is 24/192, or DSD or MQA does not alone equal that the album will sound good, some will sound fantastic, and others will have heavy dynamic range Compression and sound awful!

Link to comment
  • 4 months later...
8 hours ago, Veovis said:

 

I was trying to help out John... I use the Brooklyn as a preamp connected directly into a power amp using the analog volume control. Before then I used the XLR out into a preamp and in bypass mode but had the overload issue with loudly mastered material, even with jumpers installed. That was the way I originally had intended to use it but I must say I'm impressed with the Brooklyn as a DAC/preamp so all is well.

Veovis, out of curiosity, are you now using the Brooklyn as Pre Amp going into Amp with the XLR (balanced) or with RCA (Single ended)? 

Also are you still using the jumpers installed or have you removed them now when using Brooklyn as Pre? 

Last, what Amp are you using (so I can compare input specs vs my Amp). 

Thanks 

Link to comment
17 hours ago, Veovis said:

 

I'm using an old and trusty pair of mono power amplifiers that unfortunately don't have balanced inputs (still sound better than my integrated amp fed by RCA from the Brooklyn). I still have the jumpers installed but only because I'm lazy. Will get rid of them eventually. The volume control is typically at - 40 to - 30 dB at normal (for me) listening levels with the jumpers in place and RCA out to the power amps.

 

The amp that was overloaded by the Brooklyn is a Simaudio Moon 340i (with XLR card of course). I think the spec for the card said 4v max input.

 

Half off topic: Any recommendations for power amplifiers with XLR inputs?

I have a pair of emotiva XPA-1 mono blocks which have fully balanced XLR in (and RCA single) and Class A up to first 60 watts ( up to 1000W 4Ohm in class A/B). 

For $1,200 each, I feel they're a good value. 

The new Wyred4sound SXR1000 mono blocks (also with fully balanced XLR) also seem to be well regarded and sound surprisingly good for digital Class D amplification. 

Link to comment
5 hours ago, whacky said:

Yeah, the ground wire is connected.

 

As a brief test, I tried connecting my Brooklyn directly to the amp, Parasound A31, via unbalanced RCA out. This eliminated the sound in the speakers. 

 

When I plug the balanced connections back in, the cyclical snap/pop sound along with a very occasional electronic zap type noise is produced. Which is modified by my physically touching the brooklyn dac, or touching the balanced interconnect cables. This noise is only when the Phono stage is selected as the input. No popping/cycle type noise when USB input in use. 

 

I changed from MM to MC mode as a test and it drastically increased the sound. 

 

Almost sounds like a certain frequency clock noise. Repetitively popping and snapping quickly. 

As the volume is increased, so is this noise. 


Again, only on the balanced output when the turntable input is selected. 

 

I've also used different turntable phono input cables with no change.

Unfortunately I don't have any backup or different balanced XLR interconnects handy.

 

Anyone have any suggestions or ideas as to why this is occurring?

 

Definitely try a different set of balanced cables (seems like you will need to buy a pair to use as a test, just make sure it's from a place that allows returns)

Link to comment

*Whacky:

Obviously, roll back the firmware to 2.32 first and see if issue still exists, that's fast and easy and won't cost you any $$. 

If it still exists, than it's your cables (I would think about trying new / different balanced cables and new/different cables coming from your Turn Table too, and experiment with both). 

If it's not firmware related, then it definitely sounds like it's your cables!! 

As a recommendation for balanced cables, Music Direct (www.musicdirect.com) has Audioquest King Cobra cables (XLR and RCA) on 50% off clearance and they have a good 30 day return policy. (I think you need to pay for return shipping and call and get an RMA). 

They are a good value at 50% off and definitely a big step up from BlueJean Cables!! 

BlueJean Cables makes great Cat 6a Ethernet cables, but the rest of their cables are decent budget cables, but definitely not audiophile capable!! 

The Audioquest King Cobra's are a great value and if you really wanted to step it up even further to the next level, the Shunyata Venom XLR cables are excellent!! 

 

 

Link to comment
2 hours ago, jtwrace said:

Really bad info here.  The Blue Jeans using the Belden 1800F is all you need.  Further, you want to use the Blue Jeans Cat 6 not the 6a as I've posted about this many times.  

I meant Cat 6 , not Cat 6a - my bad!! 

In regards to XLR cables, I urge you to conduct your own experiment/ audition, I think you'll be really surprised at the improvements in sound as you go up the ladder!! 

I started out with BJC Belden, than Mogami Gold, than Audioquest King Cobra, and now Shunyata Venom XLR and with each upgrade , came a significant increase in sound quality / performance (not at all subtle)!!

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
On 12/17/2017 at 1:25 PM, mfin said:

Last week got a Brooklyn Dac+ and have a linear PSU on order.

 

Really impressed by the Dac+ with all sources. Have streamed Tidal from my Macbook and Masters and MQA all "just works like expected" and sounds great.

 

So, next step. I need a streamer for Tidal duties and want it to passthrough the MQA to the Brooklyn Dac+.

 

Sort of like the chap in the post above!

 

I was going to go for an Aries Mini with LPSU after reading everything I can, and I still might go for it as it will work easily. It sounds like it can bettered though.

 

I'm aware that an SOTM sms-200 will sound better, and I'd put a LPSU on that too. I looked at MicroRendu but it seems consensus is the SOTM might have the edge on it really.

 

So, my question is, can I have an "it works nice and easily" with the SOTM sms-200? Can someone explain the various options of how I can play Tidal using it. I want to be able to surf and play music on my iPad and on my Macbook.

 

I know one route is to run Roon, and I have a server in my house already that the server side of it could be installed on (I assume the data doesn't much flow through the server itself, it's just gotta be a presence on the network right?).

 

Which other options (apps) are there which don't require the extra cost of Roon, are there some which people will say "you set the sms-200 to xxxx mode", "install the app on your macbook or ipad", "select the sms-200 and that's it, ready to go". Do any solutions work like that.

 

If someone could outline in idiots terms the different ways it is possible to get Tidal running through the sms-200 that would be great!!!

 

 

Another option besides MicroRendu, Aeries Mini, SoTm200 would be to look at the Aurender N100H or the Auralic G2 or original Aries Bridge. 

The Aurender and Auralic products don’t need any additional Music Playback and Streaming SW w/ associated fees, they’re both “set it and forget it”, since they come with their own proprietary SW and the Conductor SW for Aurender is fully controlled via an iPad and also has Tidal and Qobuz and internet radio all embedded within too (just like Roon). 

Link to comment
On 12/13/2017 at 9:39 AM, conqubite said:

I had someone who made it for me because i can't do it myself. It's made of a good but well known and more often used print together with al first class and expensive components. The maker is also making this...

But I'm no expert so I can not say much more than this. 

Looks cool! 

Link to comment
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...