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Allo Shanti Power Supply not working


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Hello.

I buy my power supply Allo Shanti in November 2023.

Today it's not any more working - 0 reaction to switch ON/OFF, not any power on 3A and 1A connector.

I switch cable power to one new but it's same results.

Does it have any fuse so I can check?

If it have can someone send me a picture where it is?

I don't have in box any additional fuse to replacement so it's weird.

This power supply have poor quality or I don't have lucky? It's have only 4 months...

My custom power supply for DAC have 4 years and it cost less and working very well...

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I buy Allo Shanti from a local dealer who is official Allo distributor in my country.

I find fuse - it's near power supply connector, one addition fuse is in this plastic black case in power supply.

I switch it with this "old" and now power supply is working.

Where I can buy more this fuse, how search it?

It's fuse WTA 5x20mm 250V? And what Ampers fuse?

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31 minutes ago, Jaggernaut said:

I buy Allo Shanti from a local dealer who is official Allo distributor in my country.

I find fuse - it's near power supply connector, one addition fuse is in this plastic black case in power supply.

I switch it with this "old" and now power supply is working.

Where I can buy more this fuse, how search it?

It's fuse WTA 5x20mm 250V? And what Ampers fuse?

I wish you luck. Allo hasn’t supported its customers for several years. I received emails all the time from its customers and I can’t believe Allo products are still being sold. 

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I have this LPS too, very disappointed, the fuse blown almost once a year ... you can see the sign on the mental part of the fuse

 

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Shanti is not the only one, there are several cheap LPS having the same issue ... one of them killed my Uptone ER switch ....

 

Now I only use good quality one  (I do not mind to pay extra) ...

B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u

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Thank you now I found.

For information: fabric fuse is glass fast blow (F) 5*20mm 0,5A 250V.

 

It's safe for LPS and devices connected to him if I give 0,63A or 0,8A fuse? 

Does it make sense to replace this cheap glass fuse with a better fuse aka audio with copper or silver?

 

It's very sad I found this forum so late - if I know it's not good LPS I never buy it... In my country it's top LPS lol.

 

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Does it make sense to replace this cheap glass fuse with a better fuse aka audio with copper or silver?  --- For Shanti,it does not worth to get a better fuse, as it "may" blow again 

 

I will stick with 0.5A ....

B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u

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18 hours ago, Jaggernaut said:

Thank you now I found.

For information: fabric fuse is glass fast blow (F) 5*20mm 0,5A 250V.

 

It's safe for LPS and devices connected to him if I give 0,63A or 0,8A fuse? 

Does it make sense to replace this cheap glass fuse with a better fuse aka audio with copper or silver?

 

It's very sad I found this forum so late - if I know it's not good LPS I never buy it... In my country it's top LPS lol.

 

 

the fuse is there to protect the device. Using a slightly higher rated fuse (0,63 instead of 0,5A) means in an overload there will be slightly more current before the fuse blows. 
 

Overload can be effectively 2 types…

1) a big overload (short circuit type failure) - in this case it doesn’t matter which fuse you have as it will blow more or less straight away

2) a lower overload condition resulting in power dissipation inside the unit. In this case there will be some heat generated. But the chances of that unusual condition leading to something exactly between 0,5 and 0,63A is close to zero, so not something I’d worry about.

 

Of course the manufacturer uses 0,5A for a reason, but it is possible they have been too cautious. 

 

0,5A 230v is about 115W so that is not very much. Are you simply putting too much equipment on it ?

 

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On 2/19/2024 at 11:57 AM, krass said:

 

the fuse is there to protect the device. Using a slightly higher rated fuse (0,63 instead of 0,5A) means in an overload there will be slightly more current before the fuse blows. 
 

Overload can be effectively 2 types…

1) a big overload (short circuit type failure) - in this case it doesn’t matter which fuse you have as it will blow more or less straight away

2) a lower overload condition resulting in power dissipation inside the unit. In this case there will be some heat generated. But the chances of that unusual condition leading to something exactly between 0,5 and 0,63A is close to zero, so not something I’d worry about.

 

Of course the manufacturer uses 0,5A for a reason, but it is possible they have been too cautious. 

 

0,5A 230v is about 115W so that is not very much. Are you simply putting too much equipment on it ?

 

Thank you for the explanation.

I asked about the larger A fuses as they are easier to buy than the 0.5.A.

Uh no, I have only connected to LPS one streamer WiiM Pro and one Bluetooth receiver - and of course only one device is ON in this same time.

 

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