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ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!


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6 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Parallel is not as simple but this post might help you to acheive it if you do not want to buy Stammheims HPULN or HC-HPULN

Already parallel! 

Alexeys = 2 LT3045s for 1A

HPULN = 6 parallel for 3A

HC-HPULN = 10 LT3045s parallel for 5A

Look on LT3045 data sheet, see SET pin on chip used as reference to parallel chips to work together.

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8 hours ago, rb2013 said:

my USAM thread regarding a DIY project to make a short star quad cable to connect my LT3045 boxes to the IR and other devices

 

4 hours ago, rb2013 said:

Alex's post (#112) on Amir's ASR review of the LPS-1 thread

Not understand thinking to not post link to close related USAM thread, but post link to ASR snake pit?

 

8 hours ago, rb2013 said:

If I remember correctly he mentioned using Canare microphone cable.  This is different then the Canare 4s6 speaker cable Ghent uses

If I remember correctly ? UpTone use Belden #9418 (15+ AWG tot.) for cables, 4S6 = 17 AWG tot. Think Alex on vacation(?) so time to tell.

 

9 hours ago, rb2013 said:

My theory is that the higher impedance from the small gauge wires used in CAT7/8 cables may be blocking low impedance leakages.

Like reasonable work theory of effect, we hope to see true cause someday soon. Thinking better then previous superiority of OE (original experimenter). Thanks!

 

1 hour ago, rb2013 said:

I'm also a big fan of vibration isolation...love my SR MIGs!

What is "SR MIG"? (why should I know acronym ?)

 

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Cornan said:
1 hour ago, charlesphoto said:

What's the best way to do that, heatsink? 

 

The best way is to be careful and not to keep the soldering iron in contact with the pins for too long

Not adequate advice. Yes short heat time & proper wattage iron is good. But some caps, most diodes, transistors, LEDs & more sensitive to overheat. Best to attach metal clips (alligator clips, cross-action tweezers, &c.) to leads close to part body to draw heat away from sensitive materials inside device. Maybe one be quick enough with iron, but maybe not, & not always. Better be safe and not damage parts causing troubleshooting time, replacement lead time, or degradation.

If not know these things, maybe better to not solder electronic things.

 

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17 minutes ago, Cornan said:

The purpose of all this is to make it simple. It is simple.

No, purpose is to be effective. As simple as possible, but not simpler (AE) is nice to.

 

18 minutes ago, Cornan said:

have actually never ever had an accident with sensitive components.

How do you know? measured performance before-after?  Maybe have performance degradation, maybe life span shortened ?

I believe in reasonable best practices.

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6 hours ago, Abtr said:

tinned wire strands will give way to the pressure of the screw and become loose

 

2 hours ago, sandyk said:

A screw that needs to be retightened occasionally, or a severely damaged PCB that may need to be replaced

Soft metals (Cu, Sn, Pb, &c.) will 'creep' under pressure, like screw. Maybe little, maybe more, both copper & solder. So not really about one metal or other. Good procedure can mitigate problem. First tighten screw tight, but not to tight (must balance effective connection & stress/failure). Put in operation for some time, weeks maybe. Then retighten screws & take up slack for any creep (if any felt). Rare to progress further unless maybe bad conditions, heat, vibration. Also rare, but possible, for untreated connection metal creep cause disconnects, shorts, other serious problems.

Also, not worth off topic argument!

 

Better to eliminate more connections (less is more) unless just for temporary troubleshoot or experiment uses. Think of every discontinuity in circuit metal path.

From transistor silicon to whisker,

to lead wire,

to solder in thru-hole,

to trace copper,

to solder in thru-hole,

to Cu wire,

to solder connection,

to nickel plating,

to brass pin,

to gold plating,

touching gold plating,

to brass pin,

to solder connection,

to copper wire,

to solder,

to d, e, f, g, &c. 

and so-on.

 

Look at personal audio system gear and cables. Start from home AC box, on to speakers. Think about all connections inside component boxes & cables & connectors. Take some apart to see parts. Try understand audio circuit in some reality & detail.

Maybe learn little wonder & humility along with complex circuit path ?

 

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Not sure why waste time with knowledge in dueling geek battle & troll mob :(

 

 

Creep of annealed and cold-drawn high-purity copper - NIST Page

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)

“The practice of tinning stranded wires to facilitate the process of connecting the wire to a screw terminal, though having been prevalent and considered standard practice for quite a while, has been discouraged by professional electricians,[25] owing to the fact that the solder is likely to creep under the pressure excerted on the tinned wire end by the screw of the terminal, causing the joint to loose tension and hence create a loose contact over time. The accepted practice when connecting stranded wire to a screw terminal is to use a wire ferrule on the end of the wire.”


1st abandon of serious posters, now much mockery, say

“Thread is dead, Fred!” ?

 

Over&Out

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26 minutes ago, Superdad said:

Frankly, given the fact that you always post retorts within minutes of each of my posts, I think you just like to follow me around and be contrary to anything I say.

Not sound like wise move, since he getting many corrections from you & others, including Grand CA Poobah ?

 

1 hour ago, Superdad said:

So putting big caps on their output (even low ESR 560uF ones like Cornan is using everywhere) is totally the wrong thing to do.  There is no cap that has a lower impedance across a wide band than what comes right off the 3042/3045.

Thank you (& genjamon) for report/explanation. I add Kemets to new USB LPSU build, based on use by Stammheim in 3A & 5A LT3045 modules (look like attach to output from place on PCB?), not just Cornan use, plus old practice of film 'bypass' caps.

 

Now new LPSU not sound so great after 1 week burn in (??) Will give more days too test (not easy in heatwave ? ). If no change will remove Kemets & retest & report.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
12 minutes ago, John769 said:

regarding Kemets on the input side of LT3045 boards, do you put them on the input of the first or second board when using two boards in series?  

Kemets on Input side of 2nd LT3045 is on Output side of 1st LT3045. Caps not recommended on Output, so probably not good idea in series configuration. Prefer full bandwidth thru both regulators.

Kemets still good on output for other lower bandwidth regulators (non-LT304x), as Larry say, and my experience.

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15 minutes ago, sandyk said:

In case you haven't noticed, this is a Subjective thread, and your continuing insulting remarks have no place in this thread, OR any other thread for that matter.

Yes, yes, yes.
This poster very 1st put on ignore list, because violated all 3 ignore criteria (fools, villains, time-wasters). Now seems worse.

Ignore feature is good, but still see Quoted stupidity & vileness & too many "You've chosen to ignore content by Ralf11" littering threads & Activity lists like under seagull flock perch. So many garbage posts now start to stink ?

 

Maybe someone complain to management of continuing pattern of abuse behavior ruining CA experience?

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