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Need input on a specific USB DAC.


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I'm looking to replace my ZERO DAC (w/ OPA-Earth) because it was picking up interference from the computer (dirty power issue).

I have 24/96 material on my hard drive and I am looking for a USB, Firewire or Ethernet DAC that has the following features:

 

- Less than 500$ if possible

- Can take 24/96 input via USB or Firewire or Ethernet.

- Offers a very detailed, neutral and natural sound.

- oversampling bypass feature

 

If I opt for a USB DAC, I want one that has a device like the TAS1020 that takes signals on the DATA portion of the cable only and not on the POWER side in order to avoid interference coming from the computer (dirty power issue).

I have been looking for quite some time now and I haven't found anything interesting for less than 500$. Should I wait a little longer for new DACs with these features to hit the market? If you have a solution for me, let me know what it is and where I can get it for cheap. I'm a student on loans that wants to enjoy quality computer audio.

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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I'm looking for a DAC that doesn't take its power from the computer in order to avoid interferences that can be heard in the form of little crackling and buzzing sounds that are more noticeable when scrolling up and down Firefox windows.

 

The Wavelenght Proton takes power from the computer. Also, if I can stay away from an amplifier it would cost less. I'm still waiting for recommandations. However, if you see a way for me to avoid this dirty power issue coming from my computer while still keeping my ZERO DAC, let me know what it is.

 

Thanks :-)

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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I'm having a hard time to sort out the bit ratio and frequency of the source issue. I have downloaded 24/96 PCM files and I want to know for sure that I am better off playing them without downscaling them.

Is there really a point in listening to 24/96 material?

I heard someone saying that there is no point on having 24/96 unless it was recorded by 24/96 equipment in the first place.

Also, I know for a fact that humans have no perception of sounds that have a frequency over 20kHz. Where does that fit in?

Why isn't there any USB DAC that can input 24/96 material via USB under 500$? It is ridiculous to look at DACs that are over this price range to find something suitable.

 

In the meantime, while I wait to find a good USB DAC, which is the best inexpensive USB to S/PDIF (coaxial) converter?

Those buzzing and crackling sounds are driving mad and I want to get rid of them for the moment.

 

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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I know for a fact when using USB connection, I get no crackling/buzzing sounds whatsoever.

I'm willing to try the power filter option.

What are power filters?

How much do they cost?

Where can I get them?

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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The new Bel Canto USB -> S/PDIF converter is $495 and will accommodate 24/96. It powers off the computer, but I don't think you'll avoid that at your price point. My guess is it will work flawlessly with your system.

 

Mac Mini 5,1 [i5, 2.3 GHz, 8GB, Mavericks] w/ Roon -> Ethernet -> TP Link fiber conversion segment -> microRendu w/ LPS-1 -> Schiit Yggdrasil

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I am beginning to think your problem may not be dirty

AC. What operating system are you using? What processor?

I had problems of the kind you describe with Vista,

even though the machine was well without the published

system requirements.

 

It worked fine with other applications, but couldn't handle

sound.

 

 

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I had a different computer with Windowx XP and I experimented the same problem.

 

I tested the USB link with an M-Audio Fast Track Pro being powered from the computer and I had no buzzing sounds.

 

My theory: there is dirty power around my sound controller and not in the USB outputs of the computer.

I only hear the buzzing/crackling sounds and a low hum further down the chain via preamp (MK IV SE) + (T_150) power amp and speakers (PSB B25) and not through headphone amp (MK IV SE) with headphones.

 

Although the buzzing and crackling sounds can get ridden of when using USB output and not coaxial or optical output of my motherboard.

Regarding the low hum, it is still there If I use USB output, but I can get rid of it when removing the MK IV SE from the chain and using the ZERO DAC as a preamp to the T_150.

 

My conclusions:

Buzzing/crackling sounds are caused by computer (dirty power) and can be get ridden of by using USB output.

Low hum sound is only heard when MK IV SE is connected to the T_150 and it can be gotten rid of by disconnecting MK IV SE from the chain and by adding ZERO's preamp to the chain.

 

 

 

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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This is too much for my bood and I don't think a power conditioner will do much.

 

I'm getting the Turtle Beach Micro USB to optical converter for 20$. That will solve at least the crackling/buzzing sounds and perhaps the low hum noise. People say that Optical is better to get rid of ground loop because it doesn't conduct electricity but light.

 

Foobar2K w/ WASAPI ? Realtek ALC889A ? BJC 1694A coax ? DAC ? BJC LC-1 ? LD MK IV SE ? BJC LC-1 ? LD T_150 ? BJC 5T00UP ? PSB B25[br]DAC ? ZERO w/ OPA-Earth[br]Driver ? NOS Sylvania JAN 6AK5/5654 w/ round getter & black plate (1964)[br]Power ? NOS Russian \'\'Supertube\'\' 6N30P-DR Reflektor (1990)[br]Prestage ? NOS Telefunken 6AM6S S-version w/ side+top getter & black plate[br]Headphones ? Sennheiser HD 595

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