The true experimental tweak thread

[BigGuy]

4 hours ago, TubeMan said:

"

What it boils down to, is this: XLRs are balanced (3 pin) and RCAs are unbalanced (1 pin).

The main benefit of balanced cables is their ability to transfer sound signals over much longer runs/distances without signal loss, or interference. They have a very low signal to noise ratio, so will often give you a much better sound, especially over longer cables. What all cables are is various styles and lengths of copper, which act much like an antenna. The connects work in much the same way – unbalanced ones prone to picking up errant interference, balanced ones keeping the signal."

 

http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/blog/xlr-vs-rca-interconnects-is-there-a-difference/

 

This looks like cable...not XLR connectors.

[BigGuy]

Couple of things...

 

Contacted the Ebay vendor for the LT3045 inquiring as to possibility of having him build a board capable of 1.5-2.0A @ 9V.

Been a couple of weeks but no reply?!

 

Having you all as resources, anyone know where I can get an AC-DC LPS regulator board that does 1.5-2.0A @ 9V?

All kinds of 500mA and 1.0A supplies but higher amperage rare as hens teeth.

 

Thanks.

[BigGuy]

10 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Is the eBay vendor Alexey Ivanov? He have always anwered me promptly when I have sent pm to him through eBay. 

 

A tip is to search for "Ultra-low noise <40 uV voltage regulator module, based on LT1963" on eBay.

 

I am currently on the iPhone and have difficulties to find the link.

 

Found it now! 

 

Look at this on eBay
Ultra-low Noise <40μV Adjustable Voltage Regulator Module, Based on LT1963.

 

Skickat från min iPhone

 

11 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Is the eBay vendor Alexey Ivanov? He have always anwered me promptly when I have sent pm to him through eBay. 

 

A tip is to search for "Ultra-low noise <40 uV voltage regulator module, based on LT1963" on eBay.

 

I am currently on the iPhone and have difficulties to find the link.

 

Found it now! 

 

Look at this on eBay
Ultra-low Noise <40μV Adjustable Voltage Regulator Module, Based on LT1963.

 

Skickat från min iPhone

Thanks as always, Cornan.  That was quick and looks like a nice replacement for what I have.

 

       Question from the rookie...  My existing regulator board  <https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Input-TPS7A4700-Ultra-Low-Noise-Adjustable-1-4V-20-5V-1A-Power-Supply-/391736075888?hash=item5b354a2670>

has a Noise spec of 4uM vs the <40uV of the LT1963 based board.

       This is the existing xformer used with the "4700" board...

< http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcta050-12/toroidal-transformer/dp/38K4881?ost=mcta050%2F12&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fsearch>

       In the greater scheme of things, what is generally considered "ultra low noise" and how much of a difference does a 10x factor really make?

[BigGuy]

17 hours ago, lmitche said:

Hey BigGuy, what happened to the tps7a4700 board? Sounds like a great board.  Why wouldn't you want another?

 

I have a spare 1963 board in a metal box. We should talk.

 

Larry

 

One of lowest noise specs that I have seen not that this is even close to being my area of expertise.

The "4700" board was incorporated into an LPS intended to supply a device needing 1A @ 9V.  It was later clarified that the device actually requires 1.3A @ 9V.  Hence my interest in either running 2 "4700" in parallel or finding an alternative.  Based on Sandyk's note below, it does not sound like the "4700" board is adequately heatsinked for my original intent and certainly not my increased amperage requirement which would suggest a supply capable of 1.5-2.0A @ 9V.

 

16 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

The published specifications are very good indeed, but the PSU shown in the photo has a heatsink that would only be capable of adequately dissipating heat at loads no more than a couple of 100mA continuously , and that would also depend on the difference between the Input and output voltages too.

 

Alex

Thanks for the critical eye assessment of the "4700" board suitability to my application.  Would have hated to have the board result in compromising attached device or worse!

 

In light of my existing build utilizing the xformer...

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcta050-12/toroidal-transformer/dp/38K4881?ost=mcta050%2F12&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fsearch

 

would either of these regulators be a better choice to supply 1.5-2.0A @ 9V and essentially be a replacement for the "4700"?  Leaning toward the S12 which is based on the AMB Sigma 22 design with a Noise of 10uV, close to the 4uV of the "4700"
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/S12-Super-regulated-linear-power-supply-board-5-30V-LPS-10000uF-50V-Versio-PSU/132048787951?hash=item1ebeb899ef:g:odUAAOSwbopZPMnE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Amps-Voltage-Regulator-Module-Out-1-5-32V-Based-on-LM338/201159890150?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Df22db835d782440587ba054886f21183%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D201209828911&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

 

[BigGuy]

1 hour ago, sandyk said:

Big Guy

 

With the 12V 50VA transformer you will be dropping around 7.5V , and with a 2A load that's 15W of heat to dissipate !

With a  9V 50VA transformer you will be dropping around 3.6V , and with a 2A load , dissipating around 7W of heat.
 If the regulator is an LDO type ( Low Drop Out) type, the Input/Output difference voltage (headroom) will be O.K. and more than likely O.K. with a normal type voltage regulator too, especially if it uses low voltage drop Schottky Diodes for rectification.

 

I have looked at the S12 PSU before, and the only thing against it is the price.
It will do the job very well.

 

The 5Amps Voltage Regulator-Module-Out-1-5-32V-Based-on-LM338 will also do the job, but it will not be particularly low noise.

 

Regards

Alex

Appreciate the evaluation by someone obviously knowing his way around power supplies and regulators.

 

I may opt for the S12 despite its being more expensive.

 

Thanks!

[BigGuy]

12 hours ago, lmitche said:

I have three Sigma 11 based LPSUs here one at 12 volts and two at 19 volts.  They are just fantastic.  You can buy premade sigma 11 regulators at ymb.com. Integration with a case, toroid and iec and dc connectors isn't too bad if you are handy with drilling metal.

Good to hear about the Sigma 11 LPS.  BTW, site is <ymbaudio.com>  Would be nice if the S12 was as good. 

 

May I ask what approx did you pay for the Sigmas?

[BigGuy]

8 minutes ago, ted_b said:

What have folks found as the best way to stabilize these LT3045 setups, especially when in series and/or have dc adapters hanging off them?  I have found more than once having these unprotected in the pc case or even hanging off power supplies they can come undone, even though I have been somewhat diligent with tightening down the screw terminals, etc.

 

 

Discussing with a few others I'm thinking bare PCB boards underneath, hot glued or something? 

Assembling this without the regulator board I used 3/1 shrink tubing to stabilize back to back barrel connectors.  Not sure if the 3045 needs to be ventilated but you might be able to use shrink tubing on either side to cover the screw block and part of the board which would allow deconstruction as necessary.  You could even buy GREEN shrink like I did for the JSSGs.

[BigGuy]

2 hours ago, Cornan said:

A had plans to ground the DC- output of my floating LPSS powering my router when I moved to my new appartment in February, but suddenly I found myself digging in the router mess right after work today. It's a tight area which is not very easy to access without taking everything out. To my surprise I managed to fit it in place in complete darkness. The other end of the ground wire connected to a Supra ac mains plug connected to the PSD where the floating LPS is connected as well. 

I did'nt have to listen for more than a couple of seconds to realize that it made a good jump in SQ. I am so happy I did it before the move! ?

 

 

"To my surprise I managed to fit it in place in complete darkness."

 

You and/or the router?  ;-)  Could be the least expensive tweak I ever read about.

[BigGuy]

13 minutes ago, Monge said:

I need help. I have a set of 2x3 m QED XT40 speakercable with QED airlock bananas In both ends and I need to make them a little longer. 

I don’t want to cut the Airlock bananas so I was wondering if I could get a adapter of some kind for the bananas and buy some ekstra XT40 speakercable?

I know It’s NOT optimal., but I just want to try it before buying new speakercables.

Thanks In advance.

Regards Monge

This what you're looking for..both female and male

 

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Solder-Female-Banana-Plugs/dp/B00NBAVOFQ

[BigGuy]

26 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

If not the suggestion from @BigGuy you can also buy four of these plus speaker bananas (ex. Supra CombiCon) for the extension cable https://www.amazon.com/Female-Banana-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0

 

Make sure it is 4mm banana plugs though.

 

 

 

Using the couplers suggested  by Cornan, you could make something a bit better and potentially usable elsewhere with these to terminate your extension cable...

https://www.amazon.com/Efreecity®-Nakamichi-Speaker-Banana-Connector/dp/B00WJMQTX4/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1515524260&sr=1-9&keywords=nakamichi+banana+plugs

 

I bought some to terminate one end of a DIY DC cable.  Nice quality at reasonable price...and easily reusable.

[BigGuy]

30 minutes ago, Monge said:

@Cornan Thanks 

The Acatama Moseco XL500 stands you found look very nice 

Regards Monge

Interestingly, based on Acatama's use of bamboo plywood in their audio racks and what they and others had to say about it, I went on a "mission quest" to find a source for bamboo plywood to make replacements for the MDF shelves in my Salamander Designs rack.  Need to complete finishing process and install them.  Good Winter project.

[BigGuy]

8 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Nice project! ? I am not that handy with wood works, but I just found an interesting cable project for the winter. To turn this wire into a starquad DC cable with 4 individual JSSG. Should be fun! ?

 

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hook-up-wires/shielded-wiring-cable-silver-plated-ofc-4n-copper-05mm-o23mm-p-12441.html

 

 

 

Nice wire!   Should make for a nice starquad.

[BigGuy]

19 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

I think so too! My plan is to run one thin drain wire per conductor. Easy since each wire have its own shield. However, I think I might check if I can buy something else from Audiophonics at the same time. Freight charge of €28.50 was almost as much as the 10 meter wire (€34 incl VAT). Put me off a bit! ?

I have some two conductor, teflon insulated, silver-plated copper but the pair is shielded...not the individual conductors.

Rather than dis-assemble the wire, I thought about making a quasi-starquad by twisting two lengths of the 2-conductor wire together but not sure if that "undoes" what a true starquad construction accomplishes?!

 

+1 on the S/H!   I hate it when that department is treated as a profit center!

[BigGuy]

2 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

If will be OK as long as you ensure that the two 2-cunductor cables are carefully twisted along the lenght of the wire. Remember that the two cables should ideally have equal distance from each other as the two wires in the 2-conductor cable. Using for example a center core (a suitable size string) when twisting the cables will help to ensure an equal twisted distance in the middle. Ensure that all four wires are twisted in the same direction and that positive and negative runs side by side (+/-/+/-) in the twisted cable.

 

I don't know if they make a profit on freight charges, but quite annoying non-the-less! ?

Thanks for the guidance as always.  Will give it a try.  GOTTA be better than the tiny zipcord!

[BigGuy]

13 minutes ago, Monge said:

Very Nice Winther project 

I didn’t know that bamboo had that effect on ressonances.

Acatama use carbonized bamboo In some of their racks whatever that is.

I Think I found an almost perfect decoupler.

https://www.futureshop.co.uk/high-quality-gd-4mm-banana-gold-plated-4mm-banana-plug-couplers-pair

Needs some electrical tape though.

Regards Monge

 

Here is an article on use of bamboo for isolation...and an excuse to take S.O. to IKEA!  ;-)

 

Those couplers are very nice!  Black etape is gonna muck up the blingy-ness. :-D

[BigGuy]

13 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

You're welcome BigGuy! ?

Without a doubt! You will never use the tiny zipcord ever again when you've heard your DIY one. 

Are you planning to do a JSSG with the shields on the two cables, ie. solder a thin drain wire that connects the four ends (two shields) and not connect them to the plugs?

I think it would have to be a significant change for me to notice a difference in SQ with a relatively short low voltage DC cable powering an accessory rather than a component.

 

You raise a good point, Cornan.  I was actually just going to ignore the shielding on the pairs, other than not having it connected/touching anything, and just shield the whole starquad assembly.  Soldering anything to that small shield might be like doing brain surgery on a flea! 

I do have some 26awg silver-plated copper that is unshielded which may make the starquad more straightforward!?

I even bought surgical cuticle scissors to allow a neat & clean job of cutting it back since wire strippers do not work well.   They have turned out to be pretty helpful to have.

 

What are your thoughts on doing those shields vs an overall one?

[BigGuy]

2 hours ago, Cornan said:

@gstew 

After searching a bit after portable solar panels I ran into this one that looks interesting and got plenty of raves by users https://m.banggood.com/BlitzWolf-20W-3A-Foldable-Portable-SunPower-Solar-Cell-USB-Solar-Panel-Charger-with-Power3S-for-iPhone-6s-Plus-p-1012412.html

 

It could be an interesting experiment powering the galvanicly isolated output of my Luckit BluWave board for starters! ?

It seems quite powerful for what it is, so there could be other interesting uses for it together with ultracaps for example? ?

So...you bought them all, eh?  ;-)  Link says currently not available.

 

Interesting concept tho'!

[BigGuy]

Way over my head but thought some of you might be interested in this recently received article...

 

https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2017/sep/understanding-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-linear-regulators?utm_medium=email&utm_source=tnl&utm_campaign=22364_TNL1801A&utm_content=article2learnmore_US&utm_cid=7917979&WT.v_sub=7917979&WT.mc_id=em_Email Batch Program-19613-send-email-campaign&WT.z_email=22364_TNL1801A0I0US_article2learnmore&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiTW1RME9HUTVaVEV5TW1WaiIsInQiOiJcLzRyQjl0b3VERUZ3cVBWZ2lMQ0UraG1sWFNrV08rTUN3Q0w3eHRoSHVEMjVTem9TWE9sdmY5VTF0YXhGcTBJS3lNUit6Zldrb1h3U3l4VU5ZT2FiR3pvWVppd0o2Y2t6ZEJhZEhnemYyVWIwSGUxZEo5VFVIQ1FIak55ZGpwbWIifQ%3D%3D

[BigGuy]

5 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks Monge! ?

I hope it will improve things as well. Just a pity that my QED satellite cable and F-plug DC Blocker will not be to any use. I'll have to check what Iwill need. I haven't had a fiber internet connection (just FMCs) before and are actually not even sure which modem I will get or which kind of cable it needs just yet! ? 

 

When it comes to USB cable I can recommend Uptone Audio's USPCB for really short distances and my 8 conductor starquad USB cable with JSSG from ATL Hi-Fi (special order) for longer runs (0.5m to 1m). IFis new USB cables (Gemini 3.0 and Murcury 3.0) surely looks promising as well, but have'nt tried them myself. 

 

 

Regarding the ATL HiFi starquad USB cable, is it constructed using one starquad for +5/GND and a second for D+/D- with separate JSSG for power and data?  ergo an audio 4 x 4!

[BigGuy]

9 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Yes, 100% correct! 4 conductor starquad in its own JSSG for D-/D+ and 4 conductor starquad in its own JSSG for 5v/GND. ?

Thanks for details, Cornan.

 

With regard to DIY starquad construction, what might be the electrical effect of a loose (3-4 twists/foot) vs a tight (10-12+ twists/foot)...i.e., is one theoretically better than the other?

[BigGuy]

26 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Your welcome BigGuy! ?

AFAIK with starquad it is more important with an careful equal twist (distance between the opposite wires) rather than many twists. An accurate 3-4 twists/foot is surely sufficient.

Works for me!   My reason for asking is that pictures of the Canare starquad show a tight twist but did not know how relevant the tightness might be.

[BigGuy]

7 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Mind you that a tight twist might be easier to get equal since the wires support each other in an equal distance of the wire. No other advantages that I am aware of. A less tight twist need a more careful twisting performer! ?

Note that the cotton strings you find in Canare starquads is there to ensure a perfect distance between the wires.

Point taken but I am using 12AWG solid copper (for a speaker wire)  so it will hold pretty much any twist I put on it and support itself when installed.  ;-)

[BigGuy]

59 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Interesting to use solid wires with starquads. It might require patience as well though. You do not want to bend the wires in an angle. A delicate and  smooth equal twist without and any bended points (which could potensially ruin the distance formula). Do report back how the solid 12 awg solid copper wires turns out! ?

I have started to make a starquad DC cable using solid 18AWG wire and had no issues with the twist.  The 12AWG WILL be a bit more of a challenge however.  I am going to drill 4 (::) holes in a large plastic juice bottle lid to use as a tool for making the twist after securing one end of the 4-headed hydra in a star pattern.

[BigGuy]

3 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Yeah, and the back is as gorgious as the front! ?

I immediately change my order from one to two single ps. I still dont know how much they are...but I dont care! ?

 

 

 

 

Pardon me for cave dwelling but what is and what is it for?  It IS beautiful!  Will need a clear case to showcase!

[BigGuy]

1 hour ago, lmitche said:

It's an AC to DC regulator as shown, but can be ordered DC to DC only.

OK, AC to DC sounds good and 5A, or even somewhat less, would work for me.

What VOLTAGE in?

VOLTAGE out?

Will be interesting to hear pricing.

Also curious to see how you package to allow viewing w/o screwing up cooling.