Jump to content
IGNORED

A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming


Message added by The Computer Audiophile

Important and useful information about this thread

Posting guidelines

History and index of useful posts

Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

Recommended Posts

On 6/14/2020 at 9:43 AM, elan120 said:

Cables...

 

After having the EPS and ATX power supply built, I now move into cable making phase, while working on the first cable, I decided to record the sequence in more details to share here, hopefully this will help more people interested in trying out the long discussed Mundorf solid core silver JSSG360 DC cable.

 

1. Slide cotton tube over the Mundorf solid core silver hook up wire.

20200611_180506.thumb.jpg.29c41a12e9cb98725a0177b687825801.jpg

 

2. Solder wires to the connector.  In this cable, I have GX16-4 on one end and Oyaide DC-2.1G on the other end.  I started this wire from the GX16-4 side.

20200611_204529.thumb.jpg.148db99a185ee9efa16facbf4c6ed758.jpg

 

3. After the wires are soldered, slide a short heat shrink tubing over the cotten tubes to help protect the end.

20200611_205422.thumb.jpg.9fee1ca12cc902050088abc552747c5f.jpg

 

4. Reassemble the GX16-4 connector.

20200611_210127.thumb.jpg.db318e2b240640c8b66a46ddf3c439a9.jpg

 

5. Twist the two wires.

20200611_210426.thumb.jpg.2d27443cdc5f02e586fc7d1b1e8cd6cd.jpg20200611_210445.thumb.jpg.bf44f2f6d7788d461ec871b36bee84e5.jpg

 

6. Getting the Oyaide DC-2.1G side ready.  Slide the connector outer shell over the wires, cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing.  The smaller diameter one is to protect the positive lead after wire is soldered to the connector, and the larger diameter heat shrink tubing is to help protect the cotton tube ends.

20200611_231138.thumb.jpg.012c50d54a005d20466aa7a94ccd5ee9.jpg

 

7. Solder wires to the connector.  It is easier to solder the negative lead to the connector first, and then solder the positive lead.

20200611_232608.thumb.jpg.992a6bdca3ab22c25f784d307f5990da.jpg

 

8. Heat shrink the smaller tubing over the positive lead solder join.

20200611_232751.thumb.jpg.437e27a2d062b16a0552954334caf86e.jpg

 

9. Slide the larger heat shrink tube over the end of cotton tube.

20200611_233113.thumb.jpg.29dd065e7c1eb6ea3361b58b74148f50.jpg

 

10. Test the connector to make sure wires soldered is open.

20200611_233258.thumb.jpg.6e3a20a0a9c9f200cb0823e2672b1aa3.jpg

 

11. Slide the outer shell over the connector.  It is a good idea to check continuity again after the connector is reassembled.

20200611_234118.thumb.jpg.251181f2c250d44fd3dd0bc857e4c8d0.jpg

 

12. Base cable completed.

20200611_234209.thumb.jpg.052b34f386015801a9dbe80b44fd6054.jpg

 

13. Now we will start working on JSSG360 shielding by sliding the tinned copper braid over the base cable from the Oyaide connector side.

20200612_093553.thumb.jpg.a96658f9793f1492683456638f2880b2.jpg

 

14. Wrap the tinned copper braid with teflon thread tape.  It is easier to work with using 1" wide gas pipe tape.

20200612_093746.thumb.jpg.423f6862de232fb57feadca5668097d6.jpg

 

15. Teflon tape wrapped cable.

20200612_095027.thumb.jpg.c4ffbbceaf86a93229800935ebfffba2.jpg

 

16. Before sliding the second layer tinned copper braid, wrap a short section of teflon tape over the end of first tinned copper braid to protect the end and prevent the wires from braid from interfere with the second layer tinned copper braid while sliding over the first one.

20200612_095143.thumb.jpg.230eea0ee71552ef16cf3989495bc288.jpg20200612_095236.thumb.jpg.fb06e5783c6b3c928f7e376cb4693b9d.jpg

 

17. After the second layer tinned copper braid is slided over the first layer, don't forget to remove that short section teflon tape.

20200612_095613.thumb.jpg.78844fcf0babc03a2a58ea23dffbe0fc.jpg

 

18. Cut one piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing and slide them over the end of two tinned copper braids.

20200612_100518.thumb.jpg.79943deb194b7f4af70f08e14b47f54c.jpg

 

19. Apply heat to heat shrink tubing.

20200612_100714.thumb.jpg.23258548dcf4fb2db0b2e3bf900be361.jpg

 

20. Do the same two steps (18 and 19) above for the Oyaide connector side.

20200612_100901.thumb.jpg.d1bce813ffe2d52212845588d8cefa46.jpg20200612_101130.thumb.jpg.e3d53661204425bc3d4220184faa0065.jpg

 

21. Check continuity between the tinned copper braid and the connector to ensure it is open.

20200612_101239.thumb.jpg.b9a1836cd95462b854524ee4fbd55ccc.jpg

 

22. JSSG360 shielding completed.

20200612_101439.thumb.jpg.69744519def464f5db6680ae8f4e2a55.jpg

 

23. Next is to dress up the cable by cutting the Techflex sleeving to proper length and then slide over the JSSG360 shielding completed cable.

20200612_101706.thumb.jpg.bade5913f8e15b9f9de490f29bd6d423.jpg

 

24.  Final step is using the same adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to bond them together.

20200612_104717.thumb.jpg.3f8970a9d7cdb7379952143b9f300cb9.jpg

 

 

Hope these are clear and simple to follow.  Enjoy building them.

 

I will now move on to work on ATX and EPS cables.

 

 

 

 

I have read that the official JSSG360 method will add a extra wire to connect both ends of the double shielding. But I see several audiophiles don’t add the extra wire. Is there a reason for?

 

I love this design really much but did you also tried this design with Star Quad geometry?

 

I already upgraded the wire in my network switch with a twisted Mundorf cable likes yours and I really like it! The increase in resolution is impressive, but still sounds very natural and effortless.

 

 I’m really curious about your opinion about my two questions above.

 

Can’t wait to build my own DC cable!

Link to comment
  • 2 months later...

According to the Mundorf PTFE interconnect topic, I was wondering if someone has tried to build a powercord of Mundorf silver/gold wire?

 

I was thinking twisting 2x 1mm for the lead and 2x 1mm for the nul. Or different  thicknesses like in some litze design.

 

I think it can turn out wonderfully, but it’s quite expensive experiment. So I was wondering if someone has experience with this idea!?

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...