Jump to content
IGNORED

Going to try battery power for my PC


Recommended Posts

I am using an old HTPC running an Atom 525 processor as my music server. I've been using a Keces linear power supply for a while now on it and have been very happy with the results. Having read about the benefits of battery power I am going to try that next on my PC. My question is what power output I need. My PC power supply is rated at 19v @ 3.4A. One of the batteries is rated at 19v 3 amps and the other is rated as 19v 3.9A. Will the 3A battery work for my PC?

 

Here are the two batteries I am considering:

Amazon.com: Anker® Astro Pro2 20000mAh Multi-Voltage (5V 12V 16V 19V) External Battery Charger for iPad Air, Mini, iPhone 5S, 5C, 5, 4S, Samsung Galaxy S5, S4, S3, Note 3, HP, Dell, Acer, Asus, Toshiba Netbooks, Notebooks and many other devices (Appl

 

Incredible 20,000mAh Battery Charger -Universal Portable Battery

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

Link to comment

I'm not saying to not try it, but when I ran my computer off battery, I found my sound flat and somewhat lifeless. It sounded good initially and I was excited with the sound, but after doing some critical listening I felt I was missing something. When I plugged my PC back into my regenerated power all the life came back and the dynamics returned to the sound. I was some what shocked and tried the battery again and got the same thing, just wasn't happy with the sound.

 

So for me, it saves me hassle in dealing with a battery and charging it. Now I did not use anything like Red Wine Audio or that like, so maybe those are different.

 

But for me I'm happy with keeping with my plugged in solution for my computer.

Link to comment

Thank you PewterTA. I appreciate the response. For the money ($100) I am going to give it a try and see what happens. I just need to figure out if 3A is enough to power my PC which is rated at 3.4A.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

tboooe, What did try and how we'll did it work? I'm considering the same thing...

Magnepan 3.7i speakers, REL S/3 sub, PS Audio BHK250 amp, Wyred4Sound DAC2 DSDse, Server - Atom N2800 motherboard, 4GB RAM, 500GB SSD running Windows Server 2012, Audiophile Optimizer 1.40 and JRiver MC 21.

 

Link to comment

One thing you need to be careful of with these types of supplies is that they have switching DC-DC regulators on their output, and usually not very good ones at that since they are designed as battery chargers, the battery doesn't care if there is some high frequency noise on the output.

 

What you really want is a battery pack that when it is not charging just puts batteries directly on the output, no regulators. Yes the voltage can vary, but that is fine, DC-DC converters in the computer will take care of dealing with a wide range of input voltages.

 

For most such computers the input voltage does NOT have to be exactly 19V. Because the converters in the computer trade off voltage and current you can run at a lower voltage, but it will have a slightly higher current draw. It will probably work fine all the way down to 12V.

 

In summary I would stay away from those universal large batteries designed to charge mobile devices, they are probably one of the worst power sources for a device, and try a good old 12V battery and see if it works.

 

John S.

Link to comment

I'd agree, I tried the battery recharger style batteries on my Beaglebone Black and yes it was better than a cheap wallwart supply but when I put a Keces DC-116 into the loop the Keces was way better.

 


Cheers from BigEars

 


ReadyNas->BeagleBone/MPD->NAD C390DD->Poor Mans Strads

iPad/MPaD remote

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...