Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak

[Elberoth]

Paid. Sorry for the delay, as I was extremely busy working on other project. Ben-M - thnaks for your PM with a reminder.

[Elberoth]

Ben-M - does the Teradak PSU come with 24pin + 4pin or 24pin + 8pin main ATX looms (or even better - split 4+4pin option) ?

 

4pin CPU connector:

 

 

8pin CPU connector:

 

 

4+4pin split type connector (to the right):

 

 

I'm asking since the new CAPS V4 design uses the server MoBo, which needs server 8pin CPU power as opposed to the popular 4pin CPU connector.

 

Worst case scenario, one can use 4pin to 8pin adapter:

 

 

but I would like to limit the amount of loom inside.

[Elberoth]

They didn't improve the PSU further. They brought it more into line with their original specs, as posted in post 60 on page 3. How many would have even ordered them if the specs were as per _JL_'s initial measurements ?

The units before being modified did not meet their specifications by a country mile, and were faulty.

If _JL_ hadn't measured his, you guys would have had very sub standard PSUs, and they could have ended up with some very disgruntled customers and quite a few units being returned.

 

Please stop repeating misleading information. The measurements _JL_ did were not done according to ATX specs (with a resistive load - see this paper, page 22), but with a MoBo connected. That is totally different ball game.

 

It is hard to say if their PSU meet the original specs or not, simply because such a measurements have never been posted. What they posted on Page 3 of this thread is a resistive load measurements, which what everyone does (as required by ATX specs).

 

Resistive load measurements vs measurements obtained by loading the PCU with maker A MoBo = apples to oranges. The noise you see may be dumped by the MoBo.

 

Nonetheless, they improved their specs under active load condition anyway. Kudos for them for doing that, an _JL_ for bringing it to their attention.

[Elberoth]

I didn't receive one either.

[Elberoth]

If anyone already has modded his FC-10, please post images showing his work. I have some ideas, but without even having the PSU yet, cannot try them.

[Elberoth]

Yes, that would be great. Is there a specific back-plate for the FC-10 or does the PSU just ship with the normal ATX plate (which, presumably, will also need to be cut down to size)?

 

Unfortunately, there isn't one. Mine is shipped with an ATX plate. I already have my Dremel on standby

[Elberoth]

Got both of mine today.

After a lot of modification on the backplate I finally turned it on, and it works just fine.

 

What computer case did you modify ? The FC-10 ?

[Elberoth]

Dremel level novice, ha ha. It probably looks better than my ever would look like, after I put my hands on it

 

I started contemplating ordering a custom nade, CNCed backplate, about 2x 2" in size, to nicely cover the cutout.

 

Anyone interested ?

[Elberoth]

I'm just jealous everyone keeps saying their's is about to arrive and i'm still waiting for shipping notification :-(

 

Me too

[Elberoth]

Ben - can you get a firm confirmation from Teradak that all units have been shipped ?

 

I still haven't received the tracking # or any shipping confirmation from Teradak and they are closing for a month just in 2 days time.

 

I was waiting patiently for over 3 months, but now I must say - I'm getting a bit nervous.

[Elberoth]

Good news: got a tracking # from PayPal today.

[Elberoth]

Better to use linear ATX PSU.

 

picoPSU adds considerable amount of switching noise, so to some extent, negates the use of linear PSU that is powering it.

[Elberoth]

At last !

 

In full glory:

 

 

Now I only hope it works and doesn't blow up anything upon powering up

[Elberoth]

Ben-M,

 

First of all, I would like to thank you for all your time you have spent on this project. Without you, it would not happen.

 

Thanks to your time and dedication, we can now enjoy a better sound in our homes !

[Elberoth]

Forgot to add:

 

The unit is really well made and is much heavier than it looks. It feels like a proverbial 'brick'.

 

The sand-blasted finish is very nice - in fact, it looks much better made than my Sreacom FC-10 case, which is painted back (not sand-blasted/anodised).

 

Kudos to Teradak for acheving such a level of quality on a such a small volume production run.

[Elberoth]

I made mine without disassembling the chassis (I'm lazy, I know).

 

It went pretty well IMO:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have machined the backpanel using this Dremel tool:

 

 

 

[Elberoth]

Elberoth,

 

What is the diameter of the hole?

still waiting for mine to arrive and would like to get my fc10 back panel modded before it arrives

 

The connector is 29.75mm in diameter. So if you make a hole 30-31mm in diameter you will be fine.

[Elberoth]

Check the main fuse first. The LED on the power button should light up amber even if the computer is not connected at all.

[Elberoth]

However, one of the green LED is toggling between on and off every few second and there's a mechanical hum (?) coming from the PSU when that particular green LED is turning on every few second. Motherboard is not powering on.

 

This is normal. There is a separate thread to problems related with powering up the CAPS Pipeline:

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/c-p-s-v4-pipeline-build-help-needed-22947/

[Elberoth]

@Adam,

THE big 64m$ question: how does it sound on your pipeline compared to your previous capsv3 on the teddy? :-) (I know, apples & oranges, but want to know anyway)..

 

It already sounded better with Jcat battery SSD and a regular ATX switcher. I hepe the Teradak ATX PSU will push it to the new hights, but didn'[t have the time to try it yet.

[Elberoth]

Thanks Adam. I posted my issue in the dedicated thread. Can you please reply there? Btw, led light is flushing and making clicking sound in the terdak psu. My mobo shouldn't require a fan connected.

 

I'm sorry Shahed. I was reffereing to the greel LED on the MoBo. My understanding was that you are using the CAPS v4 Pipeline Supermicro MoBo. LEDs in my Teradak PSU do not blink.

 

I would troubleshoot your new build with a regular ATX PSU first and see if it works.

 

Adam

[Elberoth]

I think the comparo everyone is waiting for is a single rail, linear PSU + pico vs Teradak linear ATX.

 

I cannot contribute with any feedback here, as I went from a generic, $20 ATX switcher to Teradak linear ATX. So that is quite a bigger step.

 

In my case, the improvement I got was quite obvious - the sound is smoother, more dimensional, with blacker background. 'Less noise' is the most obvious conclusion.

 

However, the interesting observation I have made is that adding a battery PSU to the SSD (and keeping the no-name ATX switcher) makes actually bigger difference than going with Teradak linear PSU. So if my budget was limited, I would rather go with battery SSD power first than Teradak linear ATX.

 

It may also be somehow system dependent though - in my case, the ATX switcher is powered from the separate, house utility powerline and does not pollute my dedicated audio lines (which are on a different electrical phase). If someone has the computer and the rest of the audio system on the same AC line, then using the switcher may give more negative effect, so introducing linear ATX PSU will bring bigger change.

 

In any case, if money is not an object, then of course, Teradak ATX + battery SSD power is the ultimate solution IMO. This combination gives the best sound I have ever had in my system.

[Elberoth]

Main loom for now. I have yet to try the separate 5v output from the Teradak PSU.

[Elberoth]

I believe all black cables are GND.

[Elberoth]

So far, both of my units have been faultless. Very good build quality, nice SQ improvement and really great value for money for what you get.